Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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I don't understand why folks think the S130 didn't have a good competition record.
There is only one person in this thread who said ZX's didn't have as good of a competitive record, and I have already admitted I misinterpreted what you said in the past.
Some good info you are listing none the less.
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Several people have talked about doing this. I believe 2 or 3 are currently pursuing it.
Do a search. There is even a current thread that talks about an S13 vs. S14 swap. Do a search.
IMO it seems like an incredible amount of work for a questionanble gain. I am not sure why people are so infatuated with this particular swap.
You layed out your reasons pretty clearly. But a short nose diff has been done in an S30 numerous times. So the same drive train stuff you use with the 240 swap should work without taking the whole subframe. There are numerous rear disk conversion available for the S30 at considerably less than what you list price wise. But then I notice all of your prices on the 280 stuff are on the high side. And it seems pretty unfair to compare the price of a 280 set up with adjustable control arms to a fixed geometry 240 rear.
What I would really like to see is some qualitative assesment of the benefits of this swap from someone who is actually running it. Does the SX rear improve or hurt the handling/performance aspects of the S30? Does it change the balance of the car when the new rear is combined with the old front?
Maybe a hard assesment to judge fairly. But in my mind that would tell me whether all the work is worth it or not.
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Funny thing is I got the impression that the ZX's were not competitive from and old JohnC post.
Maybe I confused ZX with the 280.
Did my own search. Here is the quote (post #11)
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101932&highlight=competitive
My bad.
I remember those electromotive cars. But maybe an extreme example.
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I thought women had a taint and men had a gooch?
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They are still Z cars. Just not the type of Z car I want to own. Definitely a different emphasis. Heavy, softer ride, 1000X better looking interior. The early 240's didn't even offer a factory AC or automatic.
Hard to argue ZX's weren't as well received. Nissan sold a lot more ZX's than Z's.
If you look at SCCA racing and the like, the ZX didn't see anything close to the success of the Z. Like I said, different emphasis.
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Yeah, because computers and materials don't really make that much difference.
So I guess you are a big fan of the current generation of high tech, econobox push rod 4 bangers with their computers and modern materials?
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Any 60s era engine is low tech.
Hate to bust your bubble, but even modern production car engines are low tech. What's the old saying? Yesterday's high tech is today's low tech. With the exception of the computers and maybe the metalurgy, there is not a lot of technology in that RB engine that didn't exist in the1940's.
And where is this "beautiful classic mustang"??? I have seen better looking cars abandoned on the side of the road.
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Myself' date=' I have ever TIG welded before..
Mig welding I do Ok, but it was with flux cored wire... so it wasn't very pretty..
Oxyacetylene welding, on the other hand I do very good at. Very clean, even welds with it...very nice beads.
Now having said that, wouldn't the TIG welding fall in between gas and mig welding... as far as the process goes.??[/quote']
If you can gas weld, then you will probably do pretty well TIG welding. You need both hands with TIG. One to work the torch (arc) and the other to feed the filler rod into the weld pool. The TIG torch can be used to work the weld pool around. Guys who have only MIG welded have a harder time adapting to the separate heat and feed motions.
I bought a gas set up in high school because our old house couldn't support an electric machine. I got very good at gas welding. The couple of times I TIG welded it worked well also. I still suck at MIG welding, although I seem to be getting better at it. I really miss being able to pull the fill rod out and angling the torch to get the penetration I want. With a TIG/gas set up, the slower you go the more penetration you get. It took something JohnC said to make me realize that doesn't work with MIG. Go too slow and you just end up welding on top of your new bead.
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IMO if you are questioning whether you need a TIG or MIG, then you aren't doing enough welding to make the TIG cost effective. The opinion does not apply if you have more money than you know what to do with.
In other words if you have to ask....
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You mean Elton John with Boy George.....
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Search for the article about ITS cages. Katman talked alot about it, then someone hosted it online. I don't have the link anymore. You don't want an ITS cage (since I belive they are for saftey and specifically preclude chassis stiffening), but the article did a very good job talking about the Z's weak points.
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If I am following everything that is being said, wouldn't relocating the TC mount allow the Techno tuning part above to also retain the same geometry?
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the early 240's had a hand choke, and right next to the hand choke lever in the center console is another slot for a manual idle level. I have always wondered what that slot was for or when it was actually used, because when I bought it my 12/70 240 has the slot with no lever. The choke lever has two cables hooked to it; one for the choke blade and a second that steps up the idle speed as the choke is applied.
Would be interesting to hear from some of the guys with earlier 240's to see if they had a separate fast idle lever.
Maybe zcarnut would know.
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Maybe it is just this guys way of saying he doesn't want or need the work. I have run into that attitude with paint shops. They make all their money doing insurance collision repairs and don't want the uncertainty of a custom job.
Try a different shop.
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I know how you get such a dent. You leave the wax can on the top of the valve covers when you shut the hood.
Ask me how I know this.
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Is there any way to fix a dented tank? I've got a big dent on one of the corners, and it's dam hard to find a nice tank without spending Big Buck$.
I actually fixed a dented tank on my Fiesta with an M80. The car rotated off a set of jack stands and settled one of the stands into the bottom of the tank. Took the tank off, rinsed it several times with water, then dropped the M80 in the fill hole.
Worked perfectly.
A dented corner might be more difficult since it is a high crown area.
Maybe need 2 M80's.
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Fram Tough Guard. $4.50 at Wally world
Rated at 98.6% efficient at the 20 micron size according to the ISO 16889 test method (multi- pass efficiency). A higher efficiency rating than the Mobil 1 (96%) or the K & N filter at more than 3 to 6 times the cost
BTW, someone did just what you said Mike and cut a whole bunch of filters apart and commented on the apparent quality of each. Don’t have the link, but IIRC he liked the Tough Guard. Not to be confused with the budget Fram Extra Guard at half the price, which the guy didn’t like.
This study
http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/
is a little better in that they also compare the filtering capability of each filter, where as the other guy did not.
A $4.50 filter and 5 quarts of Shell dino oil from Costco at a buck a quart. That much more left for Jim….
Hey. If you guys really have a personal relationship with your vehicles, why not use these filters?
http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm
Isn't your car worth a $100 oil filter?
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Sounds like a plan. The school's rep is more for a resume then any meaure of what you learned anyway.
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Absolutely do not use heater hose. They won't hold up to the gas.
if you smell gas with a full tank, then the hoses may be rotted. I wouldn't worry about the expansion tank not being connected to the engine, as long as the vent terminates outside the passengers compartment.
Always wondered why they needed 3 separate vent lines on one tank. Thought maybe it had something to do when turning. Seems like plugging all but the one at the top of the tank should save some $$ on hoses. Good to know that fix works.
My 70 was built without a charcoal cannister. The vent tank is plumbed to the intake manifold when the engine is running, and the crankcase when the engine is off.
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Isn't the constitution great!!!
I have gotten out of probably 3/4 of the tickets I have every gotten when the cop didn't show. It even works for parking tickets.
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Don't know much about either of the Huston schools, but Texas A&M's EE department has a very positive reputation.
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Was that the engine out of the GTO?
Does the Camro oil pan just bolt up, or did you have to do anything special with the oil pick up. I think you guys said in the past you had to change the MAF too. Anything else that had to be replaced?
Trying to gauge what added expenses are involved with the LS2 swap over the LS1
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... longer engine life because the motor is running much closer to a perfect AFR than any carb could hope and not washing the the cyclinder walls with a too rich mixture.
You know I read that some time ago and I wonder if that is really why engines seem to last so much longer today. Growing up in the Midwest in the 70's it was pretty rare to know someone who had a car with over 100K miles. Maybe it was just because people didn't commute the long distances they do now. That and the rust from the bad weather.
These days I know people who drove cheby's into the ground. When they were finally forced to get rid of their cars because everything was falling off of the body and interior, the engines were still going strong.
Sure is a hell of a lot easier to start a FI car in the cold than a carb'ed vehicle.
Back on topic, the OBD diagnostic codes are a mixed blessing. Yeah it is nice when the computer tells you there is something wrong with one of it's exotic sensors, but if it wasn't for the FI the engine would never have that sensor to go bad in the first place.
Z vs ZX ?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Why, from GM products of course.