Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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just because there's tread on the tires doesn't mean they don't suck.
My audi used to slide in wet corners (and was borderline scary in the snow)' date=' new tires fixed me right up.[/quote']
Have to third-fourth-fifth what everyone else has said. Had a FWD Ford Fiesta I brought to Nebraska from California with budget Michelin tires. First time in the snow it no kidding slid sideways a half block down the street before coming to a stop in a neighbors front yard. Put on some new all weather radials and the car became absolutely unstoppable in the snow.
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Don't know that I will argue with what has been said, but I do know WWII aircraft used variable speed superchargers to compensate for altitude. At higher altitudes you can spin the blowers faster to maintain boost pressure without the risk of detonation. Certain models were actually tuned to work best at different altitude bands, and tended to be dogs when operated at the wrong altitude-.
So I guess I take exception to some of the statements made above. Take a forced induction engine designed to work at sea level, bring it to altitude and change the blower/turbo configuration and you might get back to your sea level power.
Perhaps a more accurate way to state it is a forced induction engine can be retuned to maintain power with altitude whereas a N/A engine has limited ability to compensate for changes due to altitude.
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What strut inserts come with the AZC assemblies?
That will have a lot to do with what spring rates you run.
Give Dave a call at AZC. I am sure he can recommend the appropriate struts and spring rates for what you want to do. For the amount of money you will be sending his way, I am sure he will be glad to talk to you.
BTW, forget using a line lock as a parking brake. They simply do not work in that capacity. You will really only need one if you plan to drag race.
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There is such a thing a volumetric efficiency. If you drastically alter your intake flow velocities at cruise, then it most certainly can and will affect your cruise economy.
Think of replacing a dual plane manifold with a high rise single plane. You (might) get more power potential at high RPM due to the better flow capacity, but this can often come at the cost of low RPM performance.
I personally have no experience with that type of engine and have even less idea what changing the MAF will do to the low RPM flow. But the idea that the engine is pulling the same load and turning the same RPM, therefore it must be flowing the same CFM of air is not a correct assumption. And if your EFI is working correctly, the gas is proportional to the air flow, so the answer lies in what happens to the air flow.
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Looks like something Wile E Coyote would drive.
Can't imagine getting a safety inspection for that thing.
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Another ticket on my record and I go from $675 per 6 months back to $1800 per 6 months... Id take a lawyer and hope for the best
Supose another option would be to drive sanely until your record clears up.
But don't suppose that will happen.
You guys have an insane amount of faith in what lawyers can do. Most yellow page lawyers will be glad to take your fees then file the same paper work, and get the same fine, you could do yourself.
I have seen it happen.
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With those spring rates aren't you going to need an extensive cage? Any thing that stiff would be miserable on the street.
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Getting rid of the rubber steering coupler was one of the best mods I did to my car. Vibration is really not an issue. Did it 18 years ago and no cracks or steering failures to date. Nissan used waaayyyy too much rubber in the front end.
I have seen on this site many ways to get rid of the coupler. Probably the best was just bolting (or welding) the two halves directly to each other with nothing inbetween. One Canadian member actually drilled out a hockey puck and used that.
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Gorgeous.
What size wheels and tires are those?
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Here is a good thread referencing an article where they dynoed a FI LS engine, then swapped in a carb and dynoed it again.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106275&highlight=500
Like the guys said above, in the controlled environment of a dyno room you can dial in a carb to do pretty well. Throw it into the real world with bad gas, humid days, high altitude and the carbs needs to be manually retuned.
Saw a thing on Monster trucks the other day and they said FI is what made the trucks real. All that bouncing around and free flight would make the carbs go bonkers whereas FI keeps the engine reving.
Want a sense of history on this? Read some aviation books debating the differences in the fuel injected DB-109 and the carbed Spitfires used in the battle of Britian.
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I have those for my stock ride height 240. Unfortunately no pics right now. But without lowering they don't do a very good job of filling the wheel wells. Unfortunately no pics are readily available so hope someone comes in with some.
BTW, people are saying tires in that size are getting increasingly more difficult to find. What brand of tire do you plan to run? My current tires have been sitting unused for 15 years so I need some new rubber.
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What is toulene? And where does one get 100oz of it?
Check with your local crack head.
People huff that crap all the time.
Home Depot carries in gallon tins.
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If that yellow scion didn't get you banned I can't see how a Honda will.
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Unfortunately someone beat you to that idea
http://www.toyota.com/prius/index.html?s_van=GM_TN_PRIUS_INDEX
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Price is more firm then a 76-year-old nun.
Not sure what this means.
I guess nuns never go down so don't try haggling on price?
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Not to disrespect anyone, but I would gladly pay a few grand more for a V8Z than an inline turbo one. In fact, I would be afraid to buy a used turbo car from some motor head. Much more complicated and many more things (expensive things) that could be wrong.
Plus IMO V8Z's are more unigue than a turbo Z. They kind of bridge both worlds of old school hot rods and small imports.
But that is just my opinion.
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For $900 leave the magnet at home and buy that sucker. Now. Stop thinking and do it. That thing has straight bumpers and you can't see the steering wheel from underneath the car. Good find.
I have a 12/70 240 and I have the exact same bit of broken bondo on the rear valence. Some drunk kid on motorcyle slid underneath my Z and exposed the damage with his helmet. Probably got bumped from the rear at some time in the past. The ding on your car is right under the bumper mount and you can see the slight crease in the bumper. The rear valence is not structural, so don't worry about "the frame".
And yes, that frame rail, such as it is, is perfectly straight. Mine looks like the ocean on a windy day from my misguided attempts to use them to jack up the car. They straighten as easily as they bend. Your only worry is rust, which that car doesn't seem to have.
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I think it has more to do with the application then anything to do with physics. If you are building a tow vehicle, you want low end torque. That means long intake runners, no overlap cams, long stroke, etc. And often times those type of cars, which aren't worried about engine height and length, get an inline 6.
If you build a performance car, you want more cylinders lower to the ground and more high end HP.
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.Right now I'd refi in a heartbeat but I still wonder... it really seems the current finance company is going to ream me with penalties if I pay it off early....
Do you know that for a fact? Every car loan I have ever had there is no penalty for paying the loan off early. You need to call them and ask them if there is a penalty for ealy payment. Should be a one word answer.
And if all you want is a shorter term, then you shouldn't need to refinance to do that. Just pay on the loan as though it is a 4 or 5 year loan and you will pay off the car in 4 or 5 years. Simple as that.
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That was my understanding also, Mounts he will sell, just not the other stuff without the mounts.
That kind of sucks. Isn't his trans mount like the JTR type and just a bar that bolts to the sheet metal floor pans?
I was hoping to fab some stock looking mounts. But I guess i wan't planning on using his driveshaft anyway, so not sure what else he would have that i would need.
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I then (after several hours)added several cans of gas drier (basically methonol) , several cans of injector cleaner and some marvel mystery oil to the tank to take care of the injectors and any small amounts remaining moisture
Damn. Take the effluent from that gasoline cocktail, put it in a drum in the back of a Ryder truck and park it out in front of a federal building somewhere!
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You can do that with a built 350.
500 ft-lbs of rear wheel torque with a N/A 350?
I cry BS.
Show us some build specs and a dyno chart.
Is it just me, or does having that much more torque than HP tell anyone else what potential there is in that motor?
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That engine might suprise you. Mine had been sitting for the last 6 years. I did use fuel stablizer and started the thing one or twice a year during the storage. But after 6 years of sitting it started right up and drove.
Drain and clean the fuel tank, clean out the carbs, change the oil, change the antifreeze and flush the cooling system, pull the plugs and squirt a little Marvel Mystery oil in there. Then turn it over a few times by hand then see if it runs. Take it slow at first because the brakes have undoubtedly glazed over.
A 74 I believe had the crappy flat top SU carbs. If I were you I would consider picking up a complete, used inline 6 from somebody doing a V8 swap. I will bet you can get a complete, running engine for less than $500. If not at least swap out the smog carbs for some earlier SU's.
BTW, I am always amazed at how well Z cars run and how reliable they are. But your car is over 30 years old. There will be intermittent problems that spring up. Make sure the wife has a cell phone, AAA card and stays out of bad neighborhoods at night.
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I would rebuild the carb first then see if you still have a problem.
A car that old, especially if it has been sitting, probably needs rebuilding anyway.
What year is the car? If it is a mid 70's, then you have a smog carb. Probably worth while to just scrap the old carb and pick up a new edlebrock with manifold. Might be dollars ahead in the long run.
Whats the Fastest you've Taken it? (is there a story behind it) (Video mounted in Z?)
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I thought I recognized your last post.