hawaiiz

Aloha all - The brakes have been done for a few days and all is well. Compared to the stock brakes its awsome. I have full control, lockem, chirpem, fast quite stopping power. Rear bias seems to be working fine. Parking brake was a biatch but I got it (I will do a whole write up just on that part if anyone wants) 3 clicks and it engaged 4 to 5 and I can get them to lockup while driving. I may do a bit more adjusting/modifications on them but its perfectly usable as a parking brake, I just want more control for using them while driving (for fun). Im still using the old used pads the rear brakes came with and when I get my new tires installed (cmon costco) Ill get new ones with either more or less aggressive pads, or may install a manual brake bias for fine tuning. So the conclusion was "Its not a bolt in by any means" I have probebly 30 plus hours into it but a lot of that was the spindle, parking brake modifcations that I belive would need to be done reguardless of what conversion kit is used due to the differences in pull requirements. My new tires should be in a 2 weeks and Ill be cleaning, painting and wil post more pics at that time. Peace HawaiiZ Oh one more thing - SpeedBleeders worked awesome, I bled them all twice by myself. No stress man.

Econony - Wet was always in the plans. But I had thoughts of using the cold start injector as the wet injector. What do you think about that idea?? Questions 1 Using the cold start injector as the wet fuel injector 2 And if so what would be the reccomenned N20 shot - 30,50,75,100? 3 Where to put the N20 gas injector 4 How to wire it - I have electronics experience. HawaiiZ Edit - Some thoughts I really like to design and build, but the rear drum to disk with usable parking brake sucked up 20+ hours so any ideas on this Idea is much appreiciated. Mahalo HawaiiZ

Aloha All - Im playing with the idea of adding nitrous to my stock FI motor. Just for the fun of it really. Nothing over the top but a extra 30 to 50 hp on demand would be cool to play with (especiily if confronted at a stop light or playing chase wit a ricer) Im looking for more information or links on who did what and how well the results were. I did some searches but only came up with V8 stuff. Thanks in advanced. HawaiiZ

Very Interesting - Ok How about this - Do 2+2 use the exact same control arm 240 260 280 use the same arm How about strut assemblys same on 2+2 and coupes?? Thanks HawaiiZ

So I was finishing up my brake conversion last night and Im looking at the lower control arms, Im like who crap, what the hello happened to my control arms, they are different. First thought is some had to replace on and could only find the wrong side and flipped it over. It was 12:30pm and I said scew it and went to bed. Looking it up this afternoon I guess its normal. http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/tur0801a01_1972_nissan_datsun_240z/photo_10.html Not my car but its a good pic of what Im talking about. So the question, Either LCA and fit either side???? HawaiiZ

Having it this way makes the angles for the parking cable and brake hose line up really nice. Since I need to take the tire off to bleed, its no big deal to loosen caliper bolts and tip up one side. No Problem....I hope.

The P215/60R14 is wider but smaller diameter. I have 7" wide rims and need A wide tire. Id like 225 but am having problems sourcing them in Hawaii plus may have more clearence issues. What do think think - Go for it??/ Im ready to push the button From Costo.com and they have a $40 instantly off a set of 4 - all installed about $300 -------------------------------- 1985 PONTIAC Fiero GT BFGoodrich® Radial T/A P215/60SR14 All-Season Performance $84.99 Item # 856440 Shipping, Handling, and Installation Included in Price The BFGoodrich® Radial T/A is the tire that defined self-expression in the muscle-car era. It is now updated for the new millennium, but still retains the wide, competition look. The BFGoodrich Radial T/A offers superb lateral stability and steering response, exceptional wet and dry traction and long, even treadwear. Genuine all-season traction and performance Crisp Handling High performance with low noise levels Long, even treadwear Sidewall style: Raised white letters Speed Rating: S --------------------------------- Diameter Tread Rev Mile P195/70R14 90S RWL 5 - 6.5 7.9 on 6 24.8 12 839 P215/60R14 91S RWL 6 - 7.5 8.7 on 6.5 24.2 11 860 P225/60R14 94S RWL 9 on 6.5 24.7 11 842

Progress Pics I clocked the bracket - I never knew how easy it was to drill in cast iron - Just has to drill 1 hole - I have 3 bolts holding it. These are 83-83 ZXT calipers I bought from a hybridz member - brake hoses match great. Im using the stock 280z parking brake cables and with some mods so far they look really good as far a angles - May have clearence issues. we shall see but it looks good. Ive decided to get it all working first and then disassemble, clean and paint. Bleeding the brakes - I will have to remove a caliper bolt and tilt the caliper to bleed. Oh well - could be worse. Im pickin up the rotors today - Napa and carquest are 45 minuits away and I just bringing 1 of the strut assemblys with me.

Congrats on getting it done. Im in the same situation but playing with brakes. "Past the point of no return"

Well so far Ive had the Z for over a month and have about 40 hours and most of my play $$ into it. Its sitting on jackstands. Fianlly got to work on it lastnight from 8:30pm to 1:30am then 8:30am to 4:00pm minus a few hours for this and that. (kids, mom, the old lady etc) My youngest son Neo today The project - Remove TLS - Transferse Link Spindle - I really didn't have to but I want them removable for later projects I have planned Remove Wheel Hub and bearings Remove Drum Brake Assembly and brakcets Clean parts Install Maxima Disc Brackets (Still undecided if I should cut out the 4th bolt for later mods) Install New Bearings Maybe Change Shocks and Springs - Maybe (My old Z has the Blue springs and Tokito standard shocks) 2 weeks ago 1st Left TL from parts Z - I pounded out - some deformation but left nuts on and they cleaned the threads OK 2nd Left TL from New Z - I Pounded, heated, Pounded, drank beer, decided to tear the back hatch interior out. Last Night Drank Beer, Explained to the Z how much happier it will be when Im done, Told the Z its part of the family now and how we will cruise all over the island and all the fun we will have. Then after looking at the problems at hand, I then proceeded to clean and organize the barn. I also gathered cleaned and cut (oh just got a used metal band saw had to play with and used it 5 times on this project) some all thread and various stuffs. This morning Said Good morning Z - Its a beautiful day out Homemade TLS Puller 1/2 allthread and nuts Datsun 620 factory lugnut - and bolt to be used a handle while fabricating galve water pipe washers including 1 TLS washer I welded the lugnut on to the end and using a bench griner rounded off the lugnut till it was round and fit into the pipe, you can see the rest. It successfully pulled out 2 hard TLs and shows no signs of stress. Its important to make sure the modified washer is holding the inner steel part of the bushing back. And it takes a while turning by hand - if I find a 3/4 drive socket Ill weld up a extention for it. I was unable to get this puller on my new Z Left as I did a job on that thing (1 1/2hours) eneded up sawsalling it apart, at least got my A arm back. I need to build a press.... Crappy homemade slide hammer But it pulled 3, or actually I pulled 3 today, sweating man, getting thirsty. I doubt it works as well as the real tool (Loaner Program:-D), and it took me a while to get it all togather. For me I think its worth it since I had all this stuff laying around, I have 2 more cars to part out and am actively looking for more. Save the Z - HawaiiZ

A good friend of mine owns a appliance repair shop, I converted him over to computer 10 years ago, he may still have it. Or better yet I have a high end consumer grade scanner with full ablilty to scan slides and negatives, I bet I could scan it, clean it up, OCR/PDF it. Thats what I want a searchable manual and parts list Just like I have for my jeep. Lets chat about it. HawaiiZ

I kinda like Spyders idea and even though I cover it with carpet I will be really sealed. Phantom - How do I get to your Pics??

Sending out a plea for more information Im looking for a 240z 260z 280z S30 Factory Parts List / Parts Catalog they usually come with illustrations and factory part numbers. I assume they existed at one time at the datsun dealers parts counter. Do you have one or know somone who does?? Thanks In advanced. HawaiiZ

Aloha - Im also looking to replace my dried out squeeges and interor fuzzies (Before I tint). I took off the Stainlees moulding and its in excellent condition. The squegess if I can spell are only held on by staples. So I think is silly to throw out the nice stock Stainless just because of a $5 sgueege. Can anyone find a sourse on a roll of this stuff that we can test and if it works may do a group buy or Ill buy it and sell it. Maybee I can modfy an actual squeege or maybe some winshield wipers or better yet some new ones off of a different vehicle. Just some thoughts. HawaiiZ

Im parting it out if you need anything. Motor is in there and ran when I parked it 7 years ago.

1 Bad Injector - Should I just buy 6 new ones?? They are 30 years old after all - worth cleaning??? Also should I get NOS Nisimo, rebuilts any reccomendations Should I play with used ones Hmm should I make a Injector tester with the pump and all and spend all the time dicking around.

Whoo WHoo - My boys can swim:icon12:

Last year of the old body style Was a great truck - built a house on a budget with it Ran whan I parked it 7 years ago. Has a 4sp and looks like a Z motor missing 2 holes - Sorry forgot those pics Yhe trans may be compatable with a Z Diff may have low gears Ive heard, maybe good for a 510??? gears Possible fits a 180 1979 Datsun Pickup EHL620 - going to the crusher - anything worth saving

Courtsey Nissan is awesome. They already got here. Still have to find some bolts. Anybody know the size I need????? And if they are special where to find some? Yes they are a bit heavy. Im thinking about cutting the 4th hole out but prob won't since Im doing the wheelbearing anyways Since I was doing the wheel bearings may as well get the ujoints.. And what the heck chenge out the clutch slave and hose, nice cast unit. Got all this stuff from gws-rareparts on ebay for $180 Delivered. Woohoo, napa and carquest are crazy prices and special order. Also orderd a set of SB1010 Speed Bleaders, http://www.raceshopper.com/speed_bleeders.shtml If I can blead the brakes all by my self then its damn worth the $28. Wheel see how those work and Ill post results. Aloha HawaiiZ

Well after I thought about it, as much as Id like to remove it I thought since the Z is still basically stock Ill leave well enough alone.

Nice work - I like it - May do the same. HawaiiZ

Aloha All - Im in the process of completely redoing the back of my 78z. I would like to eliminate what I belive to be the Fuel Vapor Tank Sorry no pic but its located on the passenger side behind the strut mount. Im dropping the gas tank anyways. I just need to know the what why and how. Some write up here about it.. http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/fueltanklines.html The only emmisions issues we have have here is the volcano and lavaflows.

I learned a new word today pedantic 1. ostentatious in one's learning. 2. overly concerned with minute details or formalisms, esp. in teaching adj. Characterized by a narrow, often ostentatious concern for book learning and formal rules: a pedantic attention to details. Now I dont feel so bad staying up till 1 am. I have still been thinking about adding more upper door area support. I have to more z cars to dispose of eventually and will experiment on the whole idea. It must in my mind somehow bolt into the existing door hinge and then possibly.... Ok got some ideas now. Will post when I get a chance to try something. Be Safe out there - HawaiiZ

Ok I see it in this pic a little better At this angle it almost looks like the e-brake arm will almost contact the swaybar.. So how about this.... If i move the mounting bracket for the hardline to rubber hose it would be OK?? And if so - its bolt on besides the relocation of the "mounting bracket" Also ive read the parking brake cables are very compatible/near stock with this setup?? 3rdly and this is the big question Will this be the optimimum street setup considering Price of system total Ease or replacement parts IE - Note parts in the owners manual and whenthey need replacing just Ask for this that part and turn in cores. No rotor mods, caliper parts swaps etc. Am I missing anything here? Thanks for all the input. HawaiiZ Edit - Now been looking at 82zx calipers - what to buy?? I just want someone to tell me if I get this here are the potential problems.

Although any major accident has the potetial to kill Im mostly worried about getting hit at the drivers door by an SUV/Truck with the taller bumpers. Since I was following this thread and was bringing a junker down to the crusher I thought I sawall up a door to take a look. So looking at these pics the door does have some sustantial bracing bar inside but my concern is how low it is, its halfway down in the middle of the door where it should be up near the top by the window. Looking in theres not any room at add anything above. Sitting in my lifted 4x4 Jeep Liberty with its Good side protection and 5000#s I feel pretty confident of survial in a bad crash. Ive just decided to be extra carefull for now unless you guys come up with something. Peace HawaiiZ