Ray

just lose or make your front plate unreadable... On my truck all I did was bend the plate mount alot... Now if a cop stops me I have a plate... another angle I have seen is to use a hinge at the top of the plate... just make it so in the picture they cant read the plate.....

I looked arround on the Sallee site where did you see this refference ????

Hey scott didn't you mention that the guy you got the trans from has it in a 85 TA.. It was probibly a 2 peice block and so you should have th right flywheel.... As John pointed out the bolt patern and the pilot dia are different...Looks like you got lucky....

There is a way to mate the two... you will need a 1/2 inch spacer to go between the trans and the bellhousing and the bellhousing is missing one mounting lug on the upper right hand side (not a problem if you run a late model block)... Depending on what kind of clutch and pressure plate combo you use you may have to space the hyd. throwout bearing tward the clutch... I have seen this done but the spacer was made by a machinist for NASA out of a peice of half inch 6061t6 plate.. so unless you have a freind who is good with a mill and owes you a favor this could be an expensive adaptation... but it can be done... Do a search we discussed this some time ago. I will look and see if I have notes on the measurements for the differences.... Later Ray....

You need to look at Petes site he has some real neat subframe connectors... Several others have done them a little different....do a search for floorboards....

I bought at Hobart 135 last year for 425$ here locally and with a bottle and a 10lb spool of wire the cost was less than 600$ I even went back and got an argon bottle and a spool of aluminum wire..(make a really nice laundry room cart out of aluminum angle for my wife...) I really like it. I also have a big stick welder for thick stuff but for body work and general welding up to 3/8 it is great..... BTW the Hobart and the Miller are the same machine only the Hobart has a cheeper plastic front pannel... Good luck you are joining the ranks of the z nut when you start to cut it apart and weld it back together......

Why not make a boxed mount out of steel sheet.. Alot of the stock stuff if two steel stampings welded together. Why not duplicate something like that... I like the idea of it locating in the tunnel... You could also make it out of flat aluminum, and build mounting pads in the tunnel... just a thought..

Funny question but what trans are you running??? if you are running an auto go with the vac secondary but if you are going with at stick I agree with the about on a 327 a 700 dp is great if you have enough cam and heads..... just my 2 cents....

351 cleveland..... they sound like that with a mild cam.... remember that Pantera's have really short exhaust systems basicly headers and a muffler not much else... nice file though....I wish I could afford an early one without the flairs thay are a really class ride....

Old style Mallory dual point with a Accell coil works good but when I get the chance I will put in a electronic conversion....I am interested in the pertronics conversions and problems with it that was what I was going to put in it......????

Take another look at the northstar... do a search here you will be supprized at the problems they are having.......

Nice explaination without getting into the mathmatics of it Terry ... BTW how are the supra front brakes working out ??? I have been looking for a set cheap...

what else do you do with 2+2's any way.. I always called them parts cars because most of the parts on my 240's came off of 2+2's.... No offense to those of you who like 2+2's I always thought they were kinda long....

What do the RX7 seats look like... what's the going rate for a set????

AKA it is alot cheeper to start with a one peice block and use the stock stuff....

Ok I am a chevy man at heart but that is a sweet car... I have always liked 67 and 68 shelbys they are the best looking of the mustangs of that period in my opinion. As for cars that just look good try a 70 Challanger R/T with a 440 and a 4 spd make mine bone white.... just plan jane and brutal... I also have a soft spot for 68 and 69 chevy novas with big blocks and pie tin hubcaps for some reason.....I dont know why.... But Z cars are alot cheeper and lighter than any of these.....so they rule in the power to weight which is all that counts....

In my job I see alot of Fords. I am responsible for the ford rail car traffic into Houston. The lastest fisaco involved the new Tbird. The cars showed up only to be held on the ground for 20 days then sent back to the factory for retrofit... It seems the battery is in the trunk and the hot cable runs behind the bumper... Also the wiring harness in the dash was shorting out for some unexplained reason. All this and they only put the 3.9 motor in it. they wern't that fast.... then there are the Mustang Cobras, great car, really poor build quality... Then there is the great Powerstroke deisel... Rod berrings at 150k at the least.. Most of them if they are worked really hard need a total rebuild before 200k... Now that I have slammed the ones I dont like.. I actually like the Taurus, they are a decent car for the money. We have several of them here at work and they seem to do real well... the Expedition's are ok just make sure you get one with a 5.4 the 4.6 is really gutless.. The Superduty's in F450 and F550 are really nice with a 6 speed (if they just had a better deisel)... I will still spend my money on GM or Toyota.. I just like the way they build things.. I want proven well developed products.. My 97 Toyota Land Cruiser doesn't have alot of the OHH Ahh stuff the Ford SUV's have but it will still be running at 300k with very little problems....I have yet to see a Ford that will do that...IMHO... [ October 31, 2001: Message edited by: Ray ]

I paid 250 for a set off a 94 turbo with new front tires, the rears were shot. Look arround there are alot of them out there...If you see a 300zx with aftermarket rims ask the owner if he sold them you may get lucky...

I have removed the spare tire well and welded in a piece of beaded sheet. I was going to box the filler neck as I wanted the tank isolated. Havent done it yet call me Pete Jr, I've been busy. If someone will tell me how to post a pix I will show you some pix before during and after...

Scottie I like what you have done so far... Just thinking out loud.... Why not take a peice of 3x3 .090 wall square and cut one end out then place it where you need it and then make atachments. Have you thought of moving your main hoop to the shelf that way you could tie it all together... Just food for thought...

Welcome.....Lots of info here and really good people. We have all benefited from this board and all learn from each other. So if you have a question or find out somthing really neat share it. This is the best board I have run into for swaps and general sharing of info. Enjoy lets see 302 nice heads... c4 worked over, 4.11 gears and 2100lbs.. sounds like a trip to the drag strip is in order....

maybe I am cheep but wouldn't a twin turbo/supercharged 350 put you in the same hp range for alot less money....and if you scatter it what are you out one 200 or 300$ 350. Like you said dime a dozen...

Tim did you use the R180 mustashe bar also...and if you did how do the flanges line up ???

You didn't miss much that is an old draw thru setup... heats the intake charge real bad....look at some of the stuff on JYturbo on yahoo groups.. they do some really neet stuff with the T3's off turbo coupes...

You may also try an 82 or 83 camaro with a 4 speed... You would have to cange the master and slave cylinder but may be alot cheeper.....