280Zone

My initial thought was a three shot grouping within an inch at 80 yards. I am enjoying the debate that will never end but check out the options that are given on the poll on the original link. The choices are rather limited and I believe are limited to handguns. Commence firing, I'll enjoy the ongiong discussion.

FWIW, Happened to pick up the latest copy of Hot Rod magazine and found a Hybrid on page 73.

http://www.desertzassociation.com/membersrides/gary/pic/pic25.jpg

The owner of the car in the first picture is Carlo. More details here; http://www.desertzassociation.com/membersrides/carlo/index.shtml

I would be interested in seeing those pictures to if possible. Thanks

The 77 & 78 hood hinges allow the hood to open a little futher.

Cool, possibly when clean, but I doubt you would be able to see anything. I think it would get pretty dirty and end up looking terrible.

Jody, Looks like a nice clean car, welcome aboard.

The valve cover vent tube on the fuel injected cars runs back to the intake. The reason is that the fuel injected cars are verysensitive to vacuum leaks. They are designed to inject fuel based on the amount of air that is entering the engine. Disconnecting it on a fuel injected car will cause the car to not run properly (some people will dispute this as they have retuned their car to run with it disconnected). Carbed cars are not as sensitive so it will not matter as much which ever way you decide to go.

Have most of their stuff on their online catalogs. Did you check there?

I have some from the SouthWest, but my advice to you is to find another radiator shop. I had mine boiled and cleaned for $60. I did have to remove it and take it down there though.

Just one of the reasons I pretty much gave up drinking. I do appreciate the story though, not funny what happened but you way of telling it made it entertaining. The "put his chest out" line about knocked me on the floor!

I can be rather stubborn at times too. I could have made it work but wasn't all that determined, the 280 nose on a 240 should be a bit easier since the radiator is smaller in the 240. Keep a good record on how you fab up the 240 mounting brackets, several people have asked how that can be done.

The probl;em I had was that the lower radiator support is lower on the 280 so the mounting brackets were all in the way and had to be removed. It sure seemed like a good easy idea until I started, I ended up giving up because it wasn't worth the effort.

I tried to put the 240 valance on my 75. After a little looking and working realized it wasn't going to work to my satisfaction. Now I have extra 240 lower valance and ends. Oh well live and learn.

The nuts are installed to have the fastener come up from the bottom of the car they are for the lower splash pan. A lot of cars have long since lost the pan.

pull everything off of the tank and take it to your local radiator shop. They will clean and boil it out for about $60.

If you want to just replace them email me direct at 280Zone@cox.net

About buying the struts and ss brakelines?

two screws and it comes out the front. Steering wheel removal might be necessary though.

Those prices have nothing to do with the interior. One is claiming to be an almost exact replica of a true 250 and the other is a Datsun with a body kit. No disrespect intend to the owner of the Z car it is truly a well done project.

Here are the rules we have for the local "Run what your Brung" I believe they are derived from the NHRA rule book. If they say you need something they will check, at least they do here. Also see the rating for the helmet rather than just the fact it is a motorcycle helmet. Clothing requirements: In the interests of fire safety, drivers & passengers of each vehicle that goes down the drag strip must wear: (1) Long pants – no bare legs (2) Shirt with shoulders – no tank tops or spaghetti straps (3) Full-coverage shoes – no sandals or flip-flops Condensed Excerpts from the 2003 NHRA Rulebook: The following information will get 99% of cars through Tech Inspection, but there are always some things we can’t foresee. The purpose of Tech Inspection is to ensure your safety and the safety of spectators and race crew. Therefore, the Race Director’s decisions on Tech Inspection matters are FINAL! 1. Seat belts are required (even if your car is so old it didn’t come with belts) and must be securely/properly mounted. Seat belts must be worn when racing. 2. All windows must be present and in good condition (free of cracks). Cars must run with all windows up, sunroofs and T-tops closed. Convertibles must run with the top up. (Note: Convertibles running 13.99 or quicker must be equipped with an NHRA-legal five-point roll bar. Consult our Tech Crew.) 3. All automatic transmissions must have a functional neutral safety switch. Vehicle may only crank in Park or Neutral. (Note: an ignition kill switch is not enough. The starter must not function when the transmission is in gear.) 4. Doors handles must be functional, inside & out. “Shaved†door handles not permitted unless there is an obvious mechanical means for our safety crew to open the driver and front passenger doors from the outside. 5. Battery cannot be located in driver/passenger compartment (unless meeting all NHRA rules and requirements, consult the NHRA Rulebook or our Tech Crew) and the battery must be securely mounted. No bungee cords, fabric straps, wire, rope, Ty-Wraps, leather belts, etc., are acceptable in place of a proper mechanical battery hold-down. 6. Vehicles with batteries that are relocated from the stock location must have an external master cutoff switch on the outside rearmost portion of the vehicle. This switch must kill ALL electrical functions including the engine. The OFF position of this switch must be labeled for our safety crew. (There are additional requirements for relocated batteries. Please, before you relocate your battery, see our Tech Crew or the NHRA Rulebook for guidance.) 7 Cooling system must have an overflow catch bottle. If your coolant-recovery system is not factory-stock, then the catch bottle must be 16 ounces capacity, minimum. 8. Tires must be in good condition, with at least 1/16 inch of visible tread remaining and no cord showing. Slicks must have visible wear indicators showing. 9. Carburetor must be covered. If your vehicle has no hood, mechanical fan must be removed but electric fans are OK. 10. Helmets: Drivers of all vehicles running 13.99 or quicker, and ALL convertibles regardless of E.T., must wear an SFI-approved helmet with a Snell rating of M90/SA90 or newer. Passengers in convertibles running 14.00 and slower must also wear an approved helmet. (Note: DOT-only helmets are not permitted. SFI-approved helmets are not permitted if the Snell label inside the helmet is missing or illegible. In other words, a Snell-rating on the outside of the helmet is not good enough.) 11. All vehicles must have at least one working taillight, which must be ON for night racing and visible to the Starter from the turn-out at the far end of the track. 12. All hubcaps and trim rings must be removed, unless bolted on. If bolted on, the Tech Crew will ask you to remove one or more caps so wheel stud length may be checked. All wheel studs (not just on the drive wheels) must extend into the hex portion of the lug nut a distance equal to the diameter of the stud. 13. If your rear-wheel-drive vehicle is capable of running quicker than 13.00 in the quarter-mile, a driveshaft loop is required. Consult with our Tech Inspectors for specifics. 14. If your vehicle is capable of running quicker than 12.00 in the quarter-mile, please consult with our Tech Inspectors for additional safety equipment requirements. 15. No vehicle may be in motion with the hood up, whether under power or being pushed or towed. Please lower your hood for visibility when moving your vehicle. The following are additional requirements for motorcycles: 1. Rider must wear a full-face SFI-approved helmet with a Snell rating of M90/SA90 or newer or K98. 2. Rider must wear a leather jacket. (NHRA, as yet, has not approved ballistic-material jackets. Please, wear leather. Also, suede is not acceptable as a “leather†jacket; it doesn’t have the strength to prevent “road rashâ€.) Riders of bikes capable of running faster than 120 mph in the quarter must wear full leathers; two-piece leathers must fasten together at the waist. 3. Rider must wear full finger leather gloves with no holes. 4. Rider must wear leather shoes/boots that reach above the ankle. 5. Vehicle must have a chain guard extending at least to the centerline of the rear axle. Shaft-drive excepted, of course. 6. Vehicle must have a working taillight visible to the Starter from the turn-out at the far end of the track. 7. Throttle must be spring-return type. Throttle must snap closed when released. 8. Bikes capable of running 10.99 or quicker in the quarter mile must be equipped with a positive ignition cutoff switch (in the low-voltage side of the ignition system) attached to the rider with a lanyard. Cutoff switch will be function-tested during Tech Inspection. 9. Nitrous oxide allowed if bottle is DOT-1800 rated and securely mounted. See NHRA Rulebook or our Tech Inspectors. 10. Operational two-wheel brakes are mandatory. No “dirt bikes†with rear-wheel brake only. 11. No three-wheelers of any kind. Check with our Tech Crew for rules on 4-wheel ATV’s. For further information, come to the track and talk with our Tech Inspectors. They are here to help you safely enjoy the sport of drag racing. NHRA Rulebooks are on sale for $10.00; read the E.T. Bracket section and the General The following are the Tech Inspection requirements for SCO Nights. · Sign the waiver and show drivers license · Full length pants must be worn. On occasion, shorts may be allowed, so bring them just in case · Seatbelts must be properly mounted · All windows must be present and in good shape (no cracks) · All automatic transmissions must have operational neutral safety switches · Doors must have operational door handles · Battery can not be in driver's compartment and the battery must have 3/8" bolt to hold it in place · Radiator must have proper overflow catch tank · Tires must be in good condition · All hubcaps and trim rings must be removed · Carburetor must be covered: if there is no hood, live fan must be removed but an electric fan is OK · Rear seat must be installed or sheet metal covering or trunk bulkhead must be installed · Convertibles must run with top up and driver must wear SNELL 90 or newer approved helmet · All vehicles must have at least one working tail light · All drivers running vehicles 13.99 or faster must wear a SNELL 90 or newer approved helmet · All vehicles running 11.99 or faster must have a roll cage

I have a set just like them and I believe they are JDM. Worth a very pretty penny if you are shoping for some.

We had the tail light thread earlier and several of us shared how we did LED treatments.

Note that he indicated "JTR". I would also recommend the "JTR" swap kit for the engine. You can get more details at http://www.jagsthatrun.com. The book is also a great place to start. Welcome aboard.