grannyknot
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Posts posted by grannyknot
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8 hours ago, carbuilder723 said:
@grannyknot... I should've asked before, but what did you do for radiator hoses?
I'm using the rad from an M3 roadster w/S54 so ordered both coolant hoses for that car but only one of them fit, so used the other stock E46 M3 hose as well. Sorry I don't remember which hose was from the M3 roadster but unless you are using that rad it probably wouldn't fit anyway. BMW's radiator hose fittings are kind of cool but it does make it difficult to find hoses for custom jobs.
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@carbuilder723, the engine looks amazing! Nice touch with bronze the trumpets.
21 hours ago, AydinZ71 said:I bet she will sound amazing!
I have the an S54 in my Z too, remarkable engine, here is what it sounds like with just the header.
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On 11/13/2020 at 10:19 PM, 280Z-LS3 said:
Grannyknot has a Vue/Equinox swap and he has posted his favorable experience with high performance driving setting. Maybe he can chime in with more detail on his experience with the Vue swap
I'm not sure how much I can add, I have about $150 total in my power steering setup, did everything myself. I don't remember running into any real problems in putting the parts together, it works very well and I'm pleased with how easy it is to forget that it is even there.
On 11/13/2020 at 10:49 PM, Cruzzar said:There are several companies that now carry the correct splined couplers that help in the adaptation.
Could you possibly name a couple of those companies that carry splined couplers? Those would have made my installation even easier. Thanks
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Interesting, being able to use the standard windshield seal is sort of a must, probably not a difficult problem to solve.
Sure would love to get rid of my original sand pitted windshield.
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38 minutes ago, 280Z-LS3 said:
Went down to the local u-pick yard and grabbed a 2007 Saturn Vue column for $65.
I love the wreckers, hard to beat a great price like that.
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Right in that corner is where the factory filled with lead to seal up the join between the panels and to smooth out that area so the rubber windshield seal can be water tight.
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That is the kind of pitting that has gone too far, you'll never stop the rust from coming back and and trying to weld on to that rotted metal will be very difficult. If it was me I would be cutting those pieces out and making new ones.
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1 hour ago, Ironhead said:
Do you remember seeing a small hole in the upper driver's side corner of the windshield frame? I am not referring to the drain holes on the lower frame...this would be a smaller hole, maybe 1/8" in diameter....
My car has such a hole, and I do not know if it is supposed to be there for some reason (can't imagine what) or if maybe it was made when my car was media blasted or something. Debating whether to leave it or fill it with seam sealer before putting in the windshield.... Like I said, I cannot imagine the purpose of this hole, but it looks pretty much perfectly round like it is supposed to be there.
Thanks!
Any chance you can post a pic? I can't remember ever seeing one like you're describing.
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I don't remember it being all that different than the vinyl, the rear wheel housing is the hardest, make sure you practice that a few times before you apply the contact cement.
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Yes I did about 4 yrs ago, the set I bought was black leather with grey stitching and it looks fantastic, anyone who opens the door mentions the leather smell. I'm very pleased with it.
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21 hours ago, jhm said:
.opting instead to buy junkers and restore them myself. It's a satisfying process to build your own car, exactly the way you want it, vs buying something already pre-built.
Amen Brother
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Just found your thread, the car looks beautiful and that engine package much be a blast. What kind of machining was needed on your OBX? I have one and only needed to invert gears and replace the cone washers.
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Hey, looks good. Don't forget the brace between the T/C rod mount and the rocker, it really stiffens up that whole area.
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Those seats are perfect. Is your roll cage a kit that you're putting together or are you bending your own?
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Go ahead and stitch the floor pan/rocker, the seam in the middle of the wheel well doesn't need it unless you are replacing one of the 2 pieces that make up the wheel well. Just make sure you seam seal all of you welds when done.
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Detailing that car isn't going to raise the price, I would say your Z is firmly in the "project" category.
An early Z, one owner with documentation are good things that make it a worthwhile candidate restoration.
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As @Neverdone, hard to give advice without pics. One of the best things you can do is start reading through the listings for 240z's on BaT, make note of the quality of the cars, the way they are presented, which ones sold and didn't sell.
From your description it kind of sounds like your car in it's present condition is a project, a car that needs many small things and a couple of big things looked after first before it is a reliable road car.
If you spend as little as possible and just tart it up for a quick sale the guys on BaT will spot it immediately and they will eat you alive in the comments section. All the people bidding will also be reading those comments as many of the bidders rely on the "experts" to decide if it is a worth while car to purchase.
What ever you do to get the car ready for sale make sure it is done well and be transparent about what you did and why,
many Z's are sold just as projects and there is nothing wrong with that, lots of guys prefer a project so they can do the work themselves.
It is also really easy to spend a lot of money on fixing it up and not see an increase in the money it sells for, lots of pitfalls to avoid so do your research.
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21 hours ago, Jockey101 said:
and can I ask you how can I get money at 16 years old or 14?
Ahh, that is the question people have been trying to answer for a very long time, good luck on quest to find the answer.
You might want to join a local Z car club, there will be many guys there that will be willing help you in lots of ways.
https://datsunnissanclub.wordpress.com/tag/nissan-z-club-of-new-jersey/
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16 hours ago, AydinZ71 said:
OBX helical looks affordable online! Can you please tell me more about the washer swap? It is going into a long jose r200 3.9 from a Z31
Where did you find an OBX unit for sale? I'm pretty sure they stopped selling those 4-5 yrs ago, maybe more.
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14 hours ago, smsms said:
Just wanted to say that this worked great. It has been leak free for the past 6 months!! Thanks Grannyknot!
You're most welcome, glad I could help.
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This what you need, mounted on an angle grinder, I've used this wheel hundreds and never seems to wear out.
Your body guy left you with all the "fun" work.
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20 hours ago, Whitley_280z_2+2 said:
Just curios, what do you have to do to hit a bump stop on one of these cars?
Take some air.
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2 hours ago, adivin said:
Are bump stops needed in the rear? I also have the Eibach springs but with the new Koni struts.
You really should. Sometimes the Eibach springs can make the rear a little lower than the front, they did on my car so I had to install 1/2" spacers on top of the springs to level out the car.
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12 hours ago, ccc said:
Should I just stuff bits of rag in them and vacuum the debris off before pulling the rags?
Either that or carefully clean the deck, degrease it and tape it up until the rest has been cleaned.
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Valve Rockers fell out?
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted · Edited by grannyknot
It could be and/or someone over revved the engine. Your lucky the lash pads were still up in the head, sometimes they get stuck in the oil drain holes to the oil galley or end up in the pan. Check the surfaces of the rockers, lash pads and cam, make sure there are no burrs or gouges, if not reinstall then, turn the engine over by hand a few times to make sure everything moving smoothly.
If you feel the engine stop as your turning don't push it through, reverse the direction just a smidge and find the interference before you proceed any further.
If the engine is rotating nicely then do a valve adjustment, after you're done cycle the engine a few times by hand an recheck all the measurements, readjust anything that needs it.
Start the engine and cross your fingers, loosing a rocker/spring is not uncommon. These are tough engines, you'll probably be fine.