maichor

My brother suggested the redneck injector test. Get a rectangle tub and pull the fuel rail. Leave everything hooked up but put it over the tub and crank the engine. I'm sure that will get messy. I just don't want the redneck injector test to turn into the redneck garage fire! Maybe I should pull the plug wires at the same time.

I wish you were local! I've seen your work. The Cobra is especially cool. There are a lot of shops around here that will do it for $$$. I just have to find some LS1 car guys that won't charge me an arm and a leg. Anybody have something like that in Dallas?

I have injectors coming. Here's hoping that will be all.

Ok, I solved some of the problem. I removed the fuel rail and pulled the injectors. I could not believe the amount of garbage in there. It was full of rust flakes from inside the fuel rail. When I originally put it on, it was from ebay, since the original was bent in an accident. I guess buying one that had been sitting for a while had a lot of rust in it. It has since flaked off. I thoroughly cleaned the rail. (I'll post a pic when I get home tonight) I still get the misfire codes and lean on the left bank. I tried to blow out the feed side of the injectors where the rust had accumulated, but it obviously didn't work. I need to either find a better way to clean them, or get some new ones.

Ok, I don't get any sensor issues. I get P0 147 lean bank 1 and PO 300 multiple/random misfire. Any ideas? Why would one side be lean? If it were an injector problem, wouldn't show up in the same cylinder each time, not random. Other than running injector cleaner, is there a good way to clean injectors if I pull the fuel rail?

Any easy test for the O2 sensors or do I just have to buy some?

I just read the codes and the book said they were rear O2 sensor codes. I guess it could be front O2's but I have never had those codes show up before. I guess they could both go out at once. Maybe?

Like a lot of projects out there, my car sits for long periods at a time. This last stretch of the sleeping monster had a few bouts of several months in a row without starting. The fuel in the car is more than a year old (I have the plastic camaro tank). I'm sure the fuel has water from season changes etc. So, I changed the fuel filter when the tank was nearly empty, added some fresh premium and a bottle of injector cleaner and started her up again. THE SYMPTOMS: It still runs poorly. I get multiple random misfire codes and O2 sensor codes for both the rear O2's but they were supposed to be programed out, hmmm? When I lay into the throttle it is sluggish and I get a lot of raw gas smell. Do I just keep running new fuel and injector cleaner through? Do I need new injectors? Do I need to pull the plugs and check them? I don't want to spend a bunch of money on this but I have run a few gallons through so far and it is not improving.

I'm not going to make the mistake of reading that thread. I can't afford the time. Besides, didn't you know that spring setup is just a blow off valve they invented!

You know it! Thanks Cygnus, I had forgotten about Tinker Toys. We used to build some killer forts out of giant Tinker Toys. They made pretty good lightsabers too. Rubik's cubes are also great. Seriously though, I try to keep up on some of the neuro develpment literature as part of my continuing education. I am no expert on the subject, but I find it interesting. The brain actually develops far more pathways based on use, especially in early childhood. Some of the best brain exercises are music, language, spatial problem solving (puzzles) and fine motor. All of these things require you to do something, even learning a language takes practice speaking, pronouncing words out loud. Just reading for recall (updading the software) is not the best way to improve the hardware (brain) so to speak. 1) Learning to play an instrument uses multiple senses, takes a lot of cognition, coordination and inspires creative thinking. One of the best. 2) Play Chess with your kids, spouse, whatever. Rubik's Cube fits into this cateogory too. 3) Learn how to use chopsticks instead of using a fork. Learn to do things with your non-dominant hand. 4) Learning another language takes a lot more time, but excellent as well.

I'll chime in here. I agree with a lot of what has been said. I have two brothers, both of them engineers of sorts. My older brother only finished 2 years of a ME degree before hitting the job market. He works for an audio/video company. My younger brother is an ME by degree and works for Hamilton Sunstrand designing jet turbine engines. I like the way they operate there. He rotates about every 4-6 months to a different portion of the project. Design rotates to build supervision/QC, then to testing and back again. Teams change up with fresh ideas coming in. And, if you don't like the way someone is handling something, it will be your turn next. Both of these guys are common sense, free thinking problem solvers. Brother #1 hobbies doing things like mating up two transfer cases for his 4X4 and machines his own parts at a buddies shop. Brother #2 has more education/continuing education, but both have a few things in common. 1) They aren't afraid to try things. 2) They grew up, playing with Lego toys, not video games. 3) They aren't too proud to learn from either camp, (academia as a base and experience/common sense to refine their thinking) Just found out my 6 year old scored 134 on his IQ test. Apparently, that puts him above 99% of the kids out there. I'm just bugged that he can't tie his shoes yet! So, my solution based on my observations above are no video games during the week and buy some legos. We actually started doing both of those 2 weeks ago.

Just Googled the other story because all MSNBC had was a headline. http://www.terradaily.com/reports/Ageing_Farmer_Kills_Leopard_With_Bare_Hands_In_Kenya.html I don't know if I could keep my wits about me in a situation like that. I would have probably dropped the machete too, but out of sheer terror. Pulling out of tongue would not be an easy feat, especially when you have teeth sinking into your muscles. Both those stories are awesome. Reminds me of Conan when Arnold punches the camel. That wasn't scripted from what I've heard. The governator was just ticked about being spit upon!

I agree Con Brio, just beautiful. chelle, those are 335's (used viper Michellins). After paint, whenever that will be, I'll get some new tires.

I used a rubber hose. I didn't want to weld with fuel in the tank. I had the cap and short metal inlet from the Trans Am that I used as a donor for the LS1. It has a rubber hose on it. I just cut it to length, threw a hose clamp on it, and brought it up to the flat near the trunk. I liked that look better. (See pic) So, I have a Flip open Le Mans style cover over a Trans Am/ Camaro filler, and that maintains my tank pressure for the LS1. I don't see why you couldn't do the same thing in the original position without relocating lilke I did.

And what I always get is this one. "A car guy's wife will never have a garage!" How true!

I was trying to find something on the search engine for Arizonazcar large bodied struts. Any of you guys using them? I shot him an email but would like some feedback from anyone here using them. I also thought that maybe you could do the swap in steps and save a few bucks by not buying the upper camber plates. I would think that you could drill out the stock isolator and use it.

That sounds like a nice ride. 12 pt. cage sounds serious. Are you sure you don't want to slap and LS7 motor in there while you're at it?! C'mon, go for it! If money were no object, right? Good luck on the build. There are quite a few LS1 guys here that can give you help when you get to that can of worms. As far as suspension setups, check the vendors' section. Off hand can think of http://www.betamotorsports.com , http://www.modern-motorsports.com, and http://www.arizonazcar.com . . . Who am I leaving out, guys?

"Its not getting what you want, its wanting what you got!" I can't believe I am quoting Sheryl Crow! Does that make me less of a man? Anyway, I think what the rich kid comment was trying to communicate was that there is a stigma with high end cars. Those that can't afford them have this love/hate thing going on. They love the cars, but have a kind of jealous hatred for those that can afford them. Sad to say, but it happens a lot. If I could buy a new Z06, I'd be all over that. . . and I would still modify it Since I can't, I love the feeling I get building a decent machine on a shoestring budget. Keep dreaming, its healthy. Just don't base your happiness on the "if I had it, I'd be happy" syndrome! I say keep it for now. You can even graduate it toy status when you get a comfy sedan, or minivan! Yes, I sold my monster Jeep Cherokee for a minivan, but I keep dreamin'!

Awesome! That is a great time for T56 and stock motor. Sounds like a great pass. Nice job!

This is the current laptop desktop. It is a Camaro concept with my tweaks from NFS Pro-Street.

Yes, I did the Z31 hub swap to convert the front to 5 lugs. That is a very easy swap. You should be able to pick up 300ZXTT lower control arms and hubs from a salvage yard and you will have aluminum parts. The Q45 90-96 hubs will be easy to find, but the uprights and hubs are all steel. A the hubs bolt right into the aluminum uprights. So you can get the aluminum pieces from a regular Z32 and buy Z32TT hubs or simply bolt on Q45 hubs to the aluminum uprights.

S14 has a smaller axles, inner and outer CV joints. I never used S14 hubs. I used the larger Q45 parts. The question you should ask is about inner CV joints. I tried to make this swap as easy as possible. I used Q45 axles, inner and outer CV joints. The Q45 inner CV joints have the same 6 bolt evenly spaced flanges that will mate up to the Q45 R200 and the 300ZXTT R230. The outer CV will work with both as well. The 300ZX N/A diff is an R200 with 5 bolt flanges and WILL NOT mate with the larger Q45/300ZXTT axles. Most of the above is off the top of my head. I will try to dig up my old axle measurements to confirm that the actual outer stub axle for the Q45 and the 300XTT are the same diameter and spline count. It is listed on this board somewhere, but I couldn't find it with a quick search. As far as I know they are the same. Even if they are not, if you have 300ZXTT axles, you can use 300ZXTT hubs. They will bolt right in. Here is some related reading. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131008&highlight=spline+count http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90068&highlight=cv+cage&page=5

No problem at all. If you have specific questions after reading, go ahead and ask. I would keep it together with the other thread to have as much info as possible in one place. Welcome, to HybridZ

This whole thread is basically what you are talking about, but page four has a skyline R32 swapped into an early Z. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96050 Good luck! Make sure you use the search.

It will not bolt in. I had the R200 in the S14 subframe. To put the 300ZXTT diff in there, I had to modifiy front and rear mounting points (they are wider for the Z32TT diff.) I thought I could swap out the diff cover, but no go. I made a plate based off the R200. The key is getting the rear mounting plate welded in the right position to keep the diff where it is supposed to be. This is basically the process. 1) Make a plate for the rear mount. Drill for R230. 2) Cut out the Rear R200 mounts. 3) Weld in the R230 mounting plate. (The new mount will now be solid.) 4) Cut loose the front mounts. 5) Bolt in the R230. 6) Bolt the front mounts to the R230. 7) Weld the front mounts back to the subframe