maichor

JTR has some 1 3/4" headers but from the pics I've seen they are not long tube. There just isn't much room for them.

My guess on shipping would be ~$50.

It looks like the kit I got is now $525. You can do the cheaper version with a core and it will run you $400. Go to http://www.4Xshaft.com and look for it. Also, my bro will be living on a huge ranch in the Rincon Valley and you have streams, rock obstacles, sand, and lots of hills. He can probably give you all the fun you can handle. I'll PM you with his email.

Oh, by the way, if you want someone to hit the trail with around San Diego, my younger brother, the one with the 350sbc TPI Toyota just moved back to Valley Center (near Escondido), our home town. The guy is a maniac and his truck is a mean torque monster. I'm sure he'd love going on a trail ride since his wife won't be coming down until she finishes her job in June, so for now he has weekends wide open. Let me know I can put you guys in touch.

WickedWild, nice Jeep there. You will like the XJ. My '91 with open diffs put to shame our YJ with 4" lift and ARB in the rear. It could take on so much more with softer springs, more articulation, and a longer wheel base. I chopped the front fenders but left the plastic over and ran 32 X 11.50's which did not rub and would stuff very nicely. I had some rubbing issues on the trail with 33's. Ztard. I can see in the pic now what you are talking about. The driver's front is started up that hill making the tire to fender gap larger in front and smaller in back. I would still say get the shackles, they are cheap and easy just like the shims. Shims may work, but they didn't help much on my '91, however, it had a 6" lift. Measure the angles to see if it will help. After having done both, I would say get the SYE kit ASAP, before you vibrate everything to death. My 91' developed a lot of slop in the drivetrain over the years, and not just from U-joints. I went through several rear U-joints, but my pinion bearing and TC bearing and chain, all of it eventually started to fail. For the '01 I wanted it to stay young so I got an Advance Adapters kit and Tom Woods long travel driveshaft for $425. It came with the beefier TC shaft and everything. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND it. I swapped it in without removing the case and took me about 6 hours and I had all the tools recommended. It is not easy, but very doable by yourself. It also looks like the UROC competition is a no go for me. We are expecting son #2 the same week. I guess the XJ will remain a trail virgin a while longer. The only thing I have done so far in it is pull some guys out of the sand at South Padre Island and run around on some of the sand dunes (more like sand hills) there. By the way, you have Cali plates, have you ever been to Glamis. Man do I miss that place. The dunes are huge. We used to have a Honda 250R four wheeler and a Suzuki 500 Quadzilla we would take out just about every weeked in the winter when I was in high school. Wow, that was 15 years ago, yikes!

Welcome to the dark side brother! It has begun! It looks mean. Nice choices there. You do have a little bit of the notorious saggy butt syndrome. Did your lift kit replace springs in the rear, use blocks, or shackles? If you don't have longer shackles, I would look into it. They smooth the ride a bit and add and inch or more to the rear. Then, if you hit the trail a lot you will next be getting sway bar disconnects, trimming fenders and adding 3" more lift! Then your steering starts to go and you beef it up, you get driveshaft vibes and go to a slip yoke eliminator setup. I have all of my stock springs and even a NP231 transfer case shaft that you could use for a core to do the slip yoke kit. PM me if you want any of that stuff. With a 3" lift you may not get into any of the other problems for a while. On my '91 back in college, it kept getting bigger and meaner. Now our '01 is the grocery getter/kid hauler so it is more low key, but still gets a lot of attention because of the 5" lift and wide tires. I dig the Claws, but couldn't justify going with a mud tire. The BFG A/T KO are 325/60/15's (actually about 31.7" X 12.8") are discontinued. Now you can only get the mudders and most of my driving is on road, so I hunted down a set of the AT's. Hopefully I will get to go to Moab in June with my two brothers who are judges at the competition and put my long arm setup to the test. My older brother has a Ranger with 35's and two transfer cases and my younger brother just put a TPI 350 into his '98 Toyota short bed and upgraded to 35's . Both are running lockers as well. Happy trails!

It looks like it is all correct to me. I have a 3.54 R200 Q45 VLSD diff sitting in the garage. I have new seals for it. I was about to junk it. It sat open in the rain at JY for who knows how long and turns alright once you break the rust loose. I clean out the garage this weekend for the move. Does anyone want it?

I like Shodaru but what about Hondubar, Hondubaru?

The earlier Northstar years require a retrofit conversion for a RWD application. I believe it is now available. I looked into it about 4 years ago. I decided for the money the the LS1 would be a better choice. If you have your heart set on it, I'm sure it can be done. It will not be easy since you will have to design your own mounts etc. You will have to get the right Northstar and tranny combo. And you will work out any bugs with the computer controls. I would start by researching the Northstar swaps in other vehicles since precious little is available for Z cars. There is a company out there that builds Northstars for swaps. I don't recall what it is but you will find it searching the web. Good luck!

I saw both of those pictures over a year and a half ago. The bear is enormous, but the carnage, almost makes me wretch.

Happens all the time. The small stuff IS the stuff that slows you down. But, the closer you get the more motivated you are and the faster you get it done. Cherish that first drive, it is awesome!

If you like the Ferrari Lights, you should check out the '50 Pontiac reproduction lights from http://www.speedwaymotors.com I have been happy with the quality. You can also get the LED conversion or LED bulbs for them. They are a glass, not plastic, 4" diameter to the outside of the bezel and come with bulbs, pigtails, and rubber seal and are easier to mount than the Ferrari style.

I've seen the LS1 in helicopters before, but this is the first plane I've seen. It makes me want to relocate my coil packs and paint my valve covers black!

WOW! Nothing like basically staring over. That car is going to be killer!

I guess I would have to know what else you are doing to the car. Are you going to run tall, fat, sticky tires with flares or going for the sleeper setup? My tires are big and fat, not that sticky and I find that putting power down is not that difficult on the street. True, I can't just dump the clutch at 5 grand and expect to hook up . . . but still with a little finesse I think the 3.7 is a good way to go, especially in a manual car. I have an R230 from the 300zxtt. On the other hand. . . If you are going to run steet tires of a smaller diameter (stock or near stock) or an auto trans I would go with the 3.54. One other consideration is that the more teeth on a ring gear, the smaller they are and the easier they break, then again the R230 is a larger ring gear than the Q45 R200 so it kind of balances out. I just have had that experience on big 4X4's. But, to my knowlege, nobody has blown up a Q45 R200 on this board yet. Anyone, anyone, Bueller, Bueller?

"Originally Posted by LS1 Z Maichor, My master doesn't look anything like the link's.(camaro) It is a G.M. product. The fitting (what the role pin holds in) is a 90 dedree angle, and the whole is large. Thanks for the compliment on the vids and e.t. times!!!" Wow, really? My '01 WS6 Trans Am master looks exactly like that and is mounted on an angle. Was your setup from a Vette? I went with an aftermarket Willwood master because of the angle on the stock one. If you have details on your master it would be very good info for those doing the swap now.

Cool vids and great et's. The restriction is in the line end of the fitting. Trust me it is there. If you are shifting fine, forget about it. Here is another writeup that may explain it more. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/39021/

The only disadvantage of the Q45 R200 is that it is the short nose variety and you will have to fabricate a front mount. However, you may be able to buy one soon. I think Ross was working on an R230 front mount, but I don't know if he has produced that part yet. Anybody know of a front mount currently available. There wasn't one when I did my R230 swap.

As far as I know, you are the first LS1 there, judging only from this site. I used the engine harness and kept the Camaro gauge cluster, all of the gauges work great and it simply plugs in where it as designed. I sold all my Datsun gauges. However, I did that because I was replacing the dash anyway for my VR conversion and going fiberglass. If you are not replacing the dash, I would call Speartech, find the guy that did Phantom's car or . . . if doing it yourself contact Briguy280Z or Lonestar1 as I believe they did theirs themselves.

Sorry to chime in here, but I think he is referring to the roll pin connector fix. You pound out the roll pin and disconnect the line. You drill out the fitting so more fluid can go through. This is a common problem/fix and I used instructions from ls1tech.com. You will have to bleed the system again.

I agree. I can't imagine doing that kind of work without the car on a rotisserie and the drivetrain out. I used 2 X 3 as Pete suggests and then left some ears on the front end and tied into the T/C mounting bucket on both sides.

Was the radiator smashed in an accident on the donor? My motor was covered with the white residue and yes, the coolant should be an orange color (Dexcool). However, the parts stores now sell a green colored antifreeze that is supposed to mix with any color. It is possible that the radiator, or a hose spewed fluid onto the motor if the car was wrecked. If not, you may want to replace the gaskets. And while you are at it, port and polish and a new cam!

I do have pics but they are on the laptop at work. you can see the backs of them in this pic in my album: http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/8329HarlingenXmas04_041.jpg

I bought a Howe radaitor. Very similar to the Griffin aluminum but much cheaper. I notched the frame rails and welded them closed again to fit the largest possible radaitor in there. I have not been disappointed. The fans hardly ever run.

Well, I had to take the car out this weekend for another short drive. The weather was great and I just wanted to run around in the Velo Rossa roadster to enjoy it. I headed North from my place to the open roads and when I was very alone I started playing a little. I launched hard a few times and the car steps out predictably to the right just a little (VLSD R230) as the tires break loose. The car is running a little better, I think the injector cleaner and fresh tank of gas is starting to work since the car sat for over year. I seem to be getting more wheelspin on this outing, so I think I wonder how fast I can be going and still break them loose? This is probably not a big deal to many of you but I was thrilled. I am running 335/35/Michelin XGT's on Cobra R wheels. That is a BIG tire and I didn't expect what I got. So, the answer to my question, at 55mph the mostly stock LS1 lights em' up pretty good. Above that, about 60, all I get is a chirp. I'm lovin' it.