maichor

You guys are both confusing me. Kidi, the first time you ask about the $14K you were quoting 73DatsunZ from post#14 in post #26. Aux's total was $7K or so in post #20. Then you quote Aux from post #27 but you are still asking about 73DatsunZ's $14k figure. Go to page one and I think you can get a good total for each car. For what it is worth, I believe 73DatsunZ meant including the engine, but he has yet to respond.

Great. . . now that you pointed that out, he is going to have to stamp out another plate!

Unless you have had the experience, it is hard to imagine the excitement of those few moments when the beast comes alive! Congrats man. Very cool!

I did the '80's T-bird, swap, same basic rack as Mustang2 that all the hot rodders use with the stock Camaro pump. The racks can be had junkyard for $40 or new for about $200. Blueovalz had a nice writeup about his setup. There is also a Subaru rack and probably a few others that can be swapped in. Mine won't apply to JCI kits since I did not keep my crossmember stock. I am surprised this site is still up. This was like 6 years ago that I did this. http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104/mounts2a.JPG http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104/mounts1a.JPG

Questions are fine. Just understand you are kind of getting the red carpet treatment here. Nobody has sent you back to the search engine yet. Go here: http://www.hpsalvage.com/ Click on LT1/LS1 and read up on the motors. What was mentioned before about LS6 vs. LS2 is a displacement issue. You can basically turn an LS1 into an LS6 with a cam and heads, both are 5.7L. However, LS2 is 6.0L, LS3 6.2, and LS7 7.0L. So, mod for mod, there is no replacement for displacement. But here, just bid on this and your problems will be solved. Maybe they have a low reserve. It is close enough you could probably pick it up. Then just zip tie a license plate on it and drive it home. I bet the cops wouldn't care. Its a project right? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300337593861&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

eBay, or search for salvage vehicles. LS1 on eBay can be had for $2K-3K+, LS2 for $4K-5K+, and LS3 $8K-$10K+ roughly speaking. If you are not planning on going over 400 hp NA, you don't need the displacement and can use the saving for heads and cam etc. and still save $1000. I bought a Trans Am with salvage title and parted it out. $4500 before LS2 ever came out. Parted it out and so I have less than $2500 into my LS1. The best way to go in my opinion. If $2K+ more is not a big deal to you, go LS2.

It sounds like you are going to be driving this mostly on the street. If that is correct, I would echo what others have said about the LS1. I have an LS1 and I am running a much bigger tire than most here with LS1. I do have a 3.7:1 differential which may make a difference, but I can break the tires loose easily from just about any RPM in first and second without dropping the clutch. Granted, I have old rubber on there, but right now I am not looking for more power. I had a 100 shot nitrous kit and 273 heads that I had bought thinking about cam, heads, and nitrous but resold them on eBay because I was fine how it drives currently. What I am saying is go cheap with LS1 and you can always do a cam/heads/reprogramming later if you are found wanting more. Now, if you can find as sweet deal on a larger displacement LSx, take it!

It sounds great! SCCA approved roll bar, but does it count if your head is above it? I used Miata seats in my Velo Rossa and made custom mounts for the sliders so that I could put them very low to avoid that problem. Even that might not be enough for a big guy like you.

Sweet ride! Reminds me of the Monster Miata's of SoCal back in the day, only better. Very nice work there. I need to borrow your shoehorn. It must be a good one to get that to fit.

If you gutted the pump, did you leave fluid in there for lubrication? It might be a good idea. As far as custom pulleys, I got the shiny ones. http://www.hotrodlane.cc or http://www.streetandperformace.com They have a pulley for just about anything. I got a tensioner and a PS pulley from them.

Now that the fuel lesson seems to be over, I will try to get back to the original requested info. I LOVE my LS1 Z. It is very driver friendly. Here were my first impressions: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96038&highlight=alive+maichor%27s I did not use a kit. As such, I was pretty much spending hours on end trying to decide how to get what I ultimately wanted. The problem was I kept wanting more and so I ended up with a severe case of "WHILE I'M AT IT" and that turned and engine swap into a complete build. In fact, the only stock parts I have on the car anymore are unibody, front struts and spindles, and the windows. Everything else is gone and swapped for something else. I mean everything. So, I highly recommend the swap. However, keep it as simple as possible or you will still not be done 8 years later!

Nicely done, Aux! That is sweet. Can you put flames on it?

The Smarrari! and finally the Smartstang! Now who is going to make the SmartZ?

The Smart Car . . . This is what we will be forced to drive quite soon. But look at all of the 'great new choices' we will have from 'The SMART Car'.... The Smorvette! The Smaudi A3 AWD! The Smamborghini! The Smorsche! Two more below.

I am going to do our local version someday. Hopefully soon. Not sure if I will be ready by 4/2010. http://www.bborr.com/

I have let a few friends drive mine. However, I am in Texas, sorry.

He said he paid $6200. I bought a 2001 WS6 TA for $4500 and it was in worse shape, it had the monsoon speakers leather etc and I was able to part it out in about a month. Made about $3000 back. Even cut up the rest of the body and got $75 for the scrap metal. I say do it.

I drilled and tapped the fitting for an AN fitting and used a braided line. Make sure you have surgeons hands or you will crack the cast aluminum. Not easy, but if done right, no problems with leaks or replacing it.

JCI and JTR are similar in some respects and could be confused in that JCI/John's cars or http://www.brokenkitty.com has been doing JTR or jagsthatrun.com swaps for years in Texas. JTR sells headers for the swap, JCI makes mounts. Don't sweat it. We are all willing to help.

Looks like you know what you are doing. Good luck with the swap.

If you are looking to add a 150 shot to be comparable, tell him to race you off the gas. You will certainly see how confident he is then. Is it a stock LT1 or a built LT1? I have a buddy with 400rwhp C5 vette that just loses every time by about a car to his buddy with a 383 LT1. Don't assume that just because it is an LT1 that he doesn't have it where it counts. Just my 2 cents.

I moved the coil and in the process noticed that the connector was broken. when I tried to move the coil it failed completely and I got a code for coil#4, (WHERE I MOVED #2 COIL) as a primary coil fault. So, I replaced that coil and finally no codes at all. So, thanks to all or your help, it turns out that I had a plug issue on one cylinder, a coil on another, and some fuel issues. The weird thing is that none of these codes popped up before I parked it about 6 months ago. Go figure. The fuel one I understand, but not the others. I'm banging on all 8 now. What a difference! I have a slight header leak at cylinder 2 and when I get off the gas I get a few loud pops as the RPM's drop. I am guessing that the leak may be causing it to be a little rich. Is that correct thinking? Anyway, I will try to get that gasket replaced soon. I am hoping to move on to bodywork now unless more gremlins pop up.

This will probably get me in trouble, but the Skyline to me is kind of like the opposite of a polished turd. You know, good on the inside but ugly on the outside. I got even more turned off with them after F&F. To each his own, but I'm with some others on this. . . drop the drive train into something with some curves or spend the money on something else.