91_4x4runner

Alot of folks have discussed how the Tokico springs actually drop you more than an inch. It's a sticky here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121496

Thread revival: I've started gathering more and more parts. I've purchased both a front and rear brake kit ("Stage 4") from bajaracer as well as an energy suspension bushing kit. As of this moment, I've got all four strut/spring assemblies pulled and ready to be rebuilt. I've got both front control arms torn apart and in the process of being torn down, painted, and put back together. It looks like I'm going to need LCA ball joints in the front, but I can't decide where to get them from. I've seen as cheap as 35 bucks from rockauto.com, and I could order my outer spindle bearings while I was at it, but is there a cheaper place? While I'm at it, I need new u-joints. From the 4x4 world, the best seem to be Spicers. Any recommendations? I'll put up some pictures tomorrow or something. I've already come in for the evening.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/tokicoupgrade/tokicoinstallfront.htm Did you put the oil in and everything? The link above is an Illumina install, but the installation procedure is the same.

I'd just use the V160. They handle incredible amounts of power. If you can afford 1200hp, you can afford the money for a V160 (stock supra 6speed). But yes, the R154 can handle lots of HP.

I'd rather just find a way to slap a seat and a steering wheel on it. Maybe rig up some lights and get it legalized.... If only it were that easy. Power to weight ratio anyone?

Quite impressive. I like the dish on those rear wheels.

I haven't looked at my Tokico's lately, but they might have an actual rubber-like coating. I'd just rough up the springs with some sand paper, clean off any dust/debris, and paint 'em.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html My favorite website of writeups^^^^^

The pressure rating is almost always written on the side of the hose. Anything over 100psi ought to be perfectly fine.

I have to agree with Proxlamus. How about the Ultima GTR? Those cars are amazing. 0-100-0 mph in 10.3 seconds.... They pretty much smash any car in acceleration, turns, and with some modifications, top speed. If your Porsche is in good condition and running well, I'd just keep it and get a Z. Looking at everything from parts availability to bang for the buck, I think a Z makes more sense.

Dang bud, I just e-mailed the seller trying to pick it up myself. I don't really need one that badly... Just trying to find a rust free shell to replace mine. There was one in the hill country last week for $350. I e-mailed the guy 1 day after it was posted and it was already gone. For their age, these Z's sell like hot cakes.

I had that exact problem with my 4Runner. Turned out that the spindle nuts weren't properly torqued.

Can we get some specs on the suspension setup? What kind of brakes are you running? Perhaps some engine bay shots? That car looks mighty impressive.

PM sent. I'm sort of jacking my own thread on this one, but I wanted folks to see this. I just got the "stage 4 rear brake kit" from bajaracer. These rotors are huge! They're the same size (or bigger even) as the front rotors on my 4Runner. For reference... my entire hand stretches just barely past the hub portion.

Absolutely. All of 'em work, right ?

I'm going to test my injectors tomorrow evening, but on the off-chance that they're bad, what are my alternatives? I checked out a few websites and stock replacements range from 60 to 100 dollars PER injector. This is friggin' crazy. 360 to 600 dollars plus tax for a new set of injectors that flow what... 150cc? [/rant] It doesn't look like the needles are coming all the way down to close the flow of fuel... what are my alternatives? New rail/ different type of injectors? Someone have spares? Thanks, Eric.

That would be a negative..... *red face* When I looked at my other intake manifold, I only saw 4 bolts. Which bolts are shared by both?

After a while, it got to the point where it wouldn't idle at all. I pulled the fuel rail and the wire harness. I then started disassembling everything (found at least 2 vac leaks). I have two problems now though. I've got the entire intake disassembled and unbolted (4 bolts), but I still can't pull the damn thing off the block. Is there some special trick? The only thing that is still bolted on (as far as I know) is the EGR pipe, but its cracked and I should at least be able to pry the manifold away at the front.... God I feel like an idiot. So far my problems amount to: Vacuum leaks Bad injectors (seem to be sticking open) Clogged fuel rail (if i turn the pump on with the return line unplugged, still no fuel shoots out) Stuck intake manifold Idiocy

Likewise.. I've got new plugs in and checked the injectors. I haven't yet replaced the thermo sensor or fixed my vac leaks, but it idles fine... where I'd expect the vac leaks to really hurt it.

Howdy guys. My '78 280Z is stuttering on acceleration (under no load... just revving). It seems to idle fine. I've replaced the ignition coil and pulled/soaked the injectors. When I give it gas, the rpm's drop. Within a second, I hear a loud pop coming from the AFM area. I hope it isn't the AFM, but it wouldn't surprise me. Any other ideas? Thanks, Eric. P.S. I need to take apart the entire intake manifold and replace the hoses/fix the vacuum leaks.

According to Rota, their Grid wheels aren't made in 16x8 (on their website). Any idea where I could get a set?

I really like it. What kind of wheels are those? Eric

What is the weight of the engine (dressed)? Is the block aluminum or cast iron? Any ideas on bottom end? I'd assume its just a 2-bolt main. I doubt they really went above and beyond with the internals, but who am I to say... I don't own one.

I'm really looking forward to the write-up. Let us know when you get it posted.

I'd like to see some videos of that car once its running. That thing is friggin' sweet!