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seb280z

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About seb280z

  • Birthday 06/03/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Helsingborg SWEDEN
  • Interests
    -73 Chevy Blazer
    -77 Datsun 280YZ

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  1. Did you get to the track? I would love to see some Pictures of if in the current state, the work and detail of this car is awesome and you are a inspiration and keep me motivated for continuing building my Datsun..
  2. Sorry, the offset is not negative (changed it in the first post). From this perspective you can't see the depth, but they are 4" tucked in there..
  3. so.. recap? What happened? Did you give up on the project?
  4. It typically says that a YZ kit is 3" wider than stock fenders. I don't know why my car seems to be that much wider, I have Z31 front hubs, they might have a different WMS offset compared to stock, but then again, clearance to the strut would be no different. I will measure the stock LCA's and compare with my AZC adjustable ones but that will probably just give me 1/4-1/2" adjustments. I'm just worried that on the street a 12" wide front will be undriveable with tracking issues. On the track it probably will be fine. I have not seen tires wider than 275 or so in the front before on streetable cars...
  5. Hi. I have a 1977 280Z with the Reaction Research YZ widebody kit, and a complete AZC suspension, 5-lug conversion and custom brakes (330mm rotors all round 8-pot calipers front, 4-pot calipers rear) 6-point roll cage. My intention for this car is just to have a fun toy, Occasional track races and hopefully lots of trips to the Ice cream stand... I bought 2 sets of used rims, Ultralite Hikari 18*8,5 +35 offset. I mocked them up in the front and I have abour 1/2" clearence to the strut, but to get the rims out to the fender I would need to widen them 4" and that would put me at 12,5" wide rims in the front. I am still working on installing the rear setup so I have not checked how much they need to be widened, but I am assuming the same. My assumption is that the usual setup is staggered setup; wider tires in the back. Q: why? How would the car be with equal size tires front and rear with like a 295-335 wide tire? Can you even steer? The reason for two sets of rims is of course to run slick and street setup. (plus it was a package deal)
  6. No build thread? Do you have a link to the other discussions about this? Thanks, Sebastian
  7. Any other info on this build? No build tread or website?
  8. I tried searching but came up blank to my specific question. Have anyone procharged a "stock" L28? I was wondering if I could just slap a procharger on there and install a different fuel management system. The car is in sweden, and modifications are basicly illegal here, so I wanted to do something less obvious. hehe..
  9. I got it figured out by looking in your gallery, very sweet setup you got there. I´ll take a different route, trying to cut some corners and save a few $$$. By the way, you got very good taste, saw the ducati, (I used to own a -01 996S, unfortunately i totaled it a few years ago). Best regards, Sebastian
  10. Very nice job!! I´m working on a similar rebuild, and I was wondering how you got your stub axle adapted? I see that you have some kind of sleeve, and did you machine your strut housings? (I bought Z32 300ZX brakes and Z31 300ZX rear stubs.) Best regards, Sebastian
  11. I bought the same bumper fron Jan 6 years ago, the price then was the same as today! So don't complain about the price, it all has to do with demand an avaliability. Quality is nice on Jans Z-parts and his Z-parts are unique! The turnsignals should fit from a 92 Toyota Celica, if my memory serves me right. Best regards, Sebastian
  12. I assume this is NA engine?! The x-over is quite important if you want to get a tuned exhaust and all the HP you can. I don't know exactly how to calculate where you should have the X-over, but there is an old Hot Rod trick, you take a small brush and some regular paint, then you paint a thin line from the collector and back ~2-3feet. Then you drive the car and make sure it gets in working temp.. Then some of your paint should be burned away and where the "burn" stops is a good spot for your x-over! X-over location has to do with exhaust pulsation, speed and heat.. With all this said, your x-over should be before the mufflers. If you have stainless exhaust you get more resonance/metallic/hard sound aswell. Resonance mufflers will give it a more hollow/metallic sound. I prefer full flow glasspack mufflers. And also the length and diameter of pipe after the muffler will affect the sound. If you have a car to do easy tests on it's quite fun! Just a comparison, the identical bikes, just diffrent material in muffler shell!! (Carbon Vs. Titanium) Carbon:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvU_O0gmrPE Titanium:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xPBtvZXvm8&feature=related I don't know if you can hear the diffrence on the computer but in real life the titanium has a much harder/sharper exhaust note. ( I used to own one w. titanium mufflers..) Congrats on a very nice car! Best regards, Sebastian
  13. Ok, sounds good! Keep us posted, and hopefully we'll keep you motivated to get her done! Best regards from Sweden.
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