SDgoods

Ive studied it thoroughly as When i get the car it was completely missing the VCM and associated vacuum hoses so I acquired a VCM and hooked up all of the hoses. How would the EGR affect 02 reading? All it's doing is diluting the combustion chamber and like you said, AFR should be the same just a lower proportionate volume of air and fuel. I will re test the 02 sensor circuit but is .3 at idle normal? I will also check it's voltage while revving as even with no load and car just sitting there it will shoot to 10 AFR with enough throttle

Im almost certain the AAC does affect idle AFR's. I forgot to mention my EGR is blocked off (more specifically the pipe coming off the intake manifold has been welded shut). at idle the 02 sensor is reading .3 V and i recently replaced it with a new one.

But its not opening, and the regulator ohm test checks out at around 70 ohms. Now that fuel pressure is correct (and the AAC presumably not working) it idles at 11-12 AFRs. Im getting 13 volts to the connector, the test doesn't say anything besides the ohm check on the regulator. Is it safe to assume an internal component is bad in it? Also, my idle isnt my biggest concern right now. cruising around any throttle shoots to extremely rich.

I found a constant 13 volts while the car is running at the air regulator connector, regardless of engine rpms and throttle position

Vcm controlling aac not ecu**

You are correct about the vcm controlling ecu through vacuum however the air regulator is what allows the air to get to the aac when vacuum is applied to it. The vcm only applies vacuum to te aac diaphragm, it doesnt supply bypass air Directly

Theres no pigtail, its a connector wired in to the stock wiring that directly connects to the throttle switch

Im going off the FSM. Ok then it was working correctly if it goes open as soon as its off idle...

How do your plugs look after driving like this? You should be able to tell if its running rich/lean and should guide you to the next step. Also has the 02 sensor ever been replaced?

The CHTS circuit is fine. However I found some other things- The head temp sensor was slightly out of spec at several different temperatures and I'm going to replace it but I don't think its causing my automatic pig rich condition with any throttle movement, which leads to the next finding... The throttle switch appears to be from a 240sx, showing continuity at full closed and OL at very little throttle input. I adjusted it to its extent so the OL didnt happen until maybe 1/4 or 1/3 throttle. Can anyone clarify that it's not supposed to go OL until full throttle (as per FSM "throttle depressed", doesn't say WOT or half throttle or anything. Any input on me just making a plate that allows a greater amount of adjustability or should I just get an actual ET throttle switch and connector? Also, 2+ ecu grounds have resistance at pin 107 and a couple others. Ill have to dig a bit further into that...

When warm idle is inconsistently thrughout the high 10's and 11's. Wot throttle is a little leaner and leans out as rpms increase. Regular drivig ANY throttle it directly goes pig rich and pegs the wideband at 10. The lower fuel pressure helped with idle and wot a little. Testing more circuits tomorrow

Vac disconnected from fpr at 36psi, with connected it sits at 24psi and idles (cold) at 12.5 afr. Im going to a car meet so ill see whr it does when its warm

Manifold vacuum? It pulls 20 inches hg. So subtract that from 36? Regarding the aac, the vcm was missing so i bought one, hooked it all up to find out the air regulator isnt opening, I read in fsm regulator circuit is through the fuel pump relay, this car having an aftermarket fuel pump makes me think the p/o didnt wire it in. Also that would only affect my afrs at idle. I will get the fuel pressure working correctly and test chts corcuit again.

It is to the stock setting, It's 30psi with the vacuum line connected. If i do the setting per vacuum line disconnected (was it high 30's low 40's i forget) , with it connected it then drops to low 20's. I'm working from the FSM for the tests but have gathered information from various threads to help. The sensor itself I did test (I actually only did it at one temperature, around 120 degrees and it tested out) So I will do it through the curve. Im fairly certain I also did the whole circuit to the ecu but i will do it again to make sure. Its been a month or two but I disconnected the connector when it was running and caused the motor to die.

Before you say it, ive searched high and low and have found answers semi-pertaining to my questions and problem... 1973 240z with 81' l28et swap -stock ECCS, mods are: Aeromotive trick flow FPR (set at 30ish psi with vacuum connected) (disconnected sits at 40+) TRE 255lph fuel pump with surge tank Custom fuel feed line, stock feed line used as return line Front mount intercooler Some cheap BOV P/O installed MSA Downpipe with AEM Wideband uego sitting ~6 inches from the stock 02 sensor location 3" custom after the downpipe Aftermarket Coil, NGK spark plug wires. HKS EVC boost controller ** Aftermarket Throttle switch p/o wired in** Test actually had resistance with throttle depressed (bad?) -Turbosmart Boost gauge, Speedhut Tach, AEM Wideband Car idles at 10-11 afrs, theyre pretty inconsistent. Under ANY throttle modulation it directly richens to 10.0 (most likely even less as the gauge only goes to 10), under one specific position at low rpms with the throttle it will hang around 11. WOT is 10- 10.5 and gets leaner as RPMS increase. I've tested all the sensors/circuits. First and foremost, 33-34 on AFM test at 205 Ohms. This is obviously out of the 280-400 ohm range. All of the other AFM tests check out. Can this alone cause the car to run THAT rich even at idle? I should also mention the internals of the AFM look like they were glued and someone didnt want it to be adjusted again. Wondering if I should try to break/ heat up the glue and adjust afm? Or could this in itself be causing my whole problem? -Notable mention, the air regulator seems to not be working as it appears the p/o didnt wire it in from the fuel pump relay as it is an aftermarket fuel pump. Therefore the AAC is not working correctly, ( might explain idle AFR's, not any other condition though) Car pulls 20 in/hg no problem once warm. Is this one circuit in the AFM causing all my problems? AAC/AFM joining together to cause it? Any help would be greatly appreciated before I go spend $180 on an MSA AFM Thanks

Far from restored but a v8 would go nicely with it

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110408-fs-modified-1971-240z-l28-socal-5000/?do=findComment&comment=1034271

Like title says, working non diaphragm torn valve from someone who went n42 or other intake mani. Im in North County San Diego, willing to pick up anywhere in Socal. Show me what you got!

Need this to correct my super rich idle, mines missing! suby205@gmail.com , respond here, or PM Me! Im in San Diego, would prefer socal but willing to pay for shipping Thanks!

http://www.zdriver.com/forums/fs-240z-260z-280z-280zx-70-83-242/modified-1971-240z-socal-36456/ its not an et but an l28 and all flares/widewheels/ coilovers/ rear disc etc etc

its a slow start but coming along... got it running much better, the dumbass who swapped it had the AFM rotated so it was basically upside down hence the in boost hesitation. And to try to bandaid the problem which he probably couldnt figure out, had fuel pressure up at 60 psi at idle. Got a MSA downpipe goin in soon and some other things here and there. And on the hunt for some wheels and tryna sell the white one. Text me and come out thursday!!

Title explains it all, im looking for Hayashi 501 or 505, or epsilon mesh in stock body specs 15x7 +0 to +10 offset 4x114.3 for a 73z. Cosmetics can be rough but need them to be true and straight. Email me at suby205@gmail.com or PM me on hybridz

Yes they rubbed extremely bad when i put them on and was low, to the point I couldnt drive it. I raised it up and pushed out the front of the fenders by spacing the headlight bucket to body with a nut, and lowered it back down and now have 0 rubbing issues.

Bump i know these are rare but someone has to have some!

Pretty terrible haha. I wish I would have went with -35 or 40 in the rear to fill out the rest of the fender. The front is just about perfect. The car is actually for sale now im starting a different build, less wild looks with more power