2fast2Z

Same springs on a -73 240Z, with Tokico inserts. 2nd. photo is Euro and US strut housing. Chris

I like to know more, tyre size, suspension, offset, please share. Chris

WOW, that home build exhaust look HOT, wait a minute, that's my exhaust Ray, that exhaust is my version of a Clifford copy and if i'm not mistaken, the Clifford also have the piping like this, tecnically i believe it doesen't matter that much, being it is so far from the headder as it is, others would probably know better. The exhaust have a fantastic sound and after having my Dellortos dialed in, it is even better BUT also to loud for my taste, i have a hard time hearing my carbyes, witch for me is a much much nicer sound, so right now, i'm consider building a 2.25 inch system that will allow me to listen to the sound of my Del's sucking in air. Chris

The Lynx i have do have there name cast in one of the runners ans also D240/260. Chris

Here is a little update, bungs have been milled, drilled and tapped, sorry for the crappy phone pics. Chris

Sorry for my late reply, didn't get a notificatoin. BMW ITB are to small (36 IIRC), but made by Bing as the set i posted a photo of.

Try to Google "weber banjo fitting"

Hmmm, interesting, so you would not use bigger valves ?, i do have flat tops for that F54 block, so as i see it right now, is a compression issue, i will need to get that down, i know many here have heads with huge ports, using huge cams with very high lift and are running a hell of alot RPM's, that's not my goal as stated above and the logic about having smaller ports to make a venturi effect and speed up air flow is clear to me. I think it could be a idea for me to start by measuring the CC that the stock champer have IIRC it is 39 and then go from there, removing a little material at a time and then see what CC i can come up with. Chris

Korea, that explains it. I have no idea of what kind of E88 it is i have, maybe Ray know, i got it from him, it have open chambers. I had the idea that this E30 would be a better head to use because of the "squelsh" area, i do not mind spending some time working on this head, but if benefit will be little to none, i can spend my time on other stuff. What i wanted to achieve was, squelsh and high compression but still be able to use pump gas (95) Chris

WOW that was fast Tony, don't you sleep over there. This is exactly why i like some comments, i do want to open up those ports, to 32-35 m.m., just don't want to open them up so much as i see in other topics floating around here, my aim is to get a engine with a good low end performance, the other head option i have is to use a E88 i have. The rest of what you wrote, i didn't really understand, English is not my native you see. So Tony, what would you recommend me to do with that head ? Chris

Ray, the photo shows up now, maybe your server went down at the moment i was looking at the topic. Roadster and Z are fine, they are in the garage at my summer house, last year i extended that garage and now there is room for both, currently doing a little work on the Z when i'm there, putting on triples (My balance tube topic) and improve ignition, getting it ready for spring time, i also want to do some suspension work, i will e-mail you about that. TonyD, ive started a new topic, so i dont jack Ray's topic E30 head any comments will be appreciated. Chris

To avoid jacking another topic, i start this one, i like to get advice about what to do to a E30 head for improvements. TonyD, the reason for me to ask, is that i have a similar E30 head as the one Ray have and i'm planning on using it on my L28 build, i asked because i remember Ozconnection previously have made some comments to E30 heads, the ports are pretty small (28 m.m. IIRC)and i don't want to open them up to much, chambers and valves are also small, i have a E88 valve train i'm planning to use and i believe that i have to open the chambers up a little because i want to be able to run on 95 pump gas, maybe unschrouting will be enough, so any advise will be appreciated. Chris

They are 40 Del's allright, got them as a bonus, they came with my nice manifold Didn't i say the photo was a teaser ?, okay then, i will share some, throttle bore is 43 m.m., center to center distance is 89 m.m. (very close to the Del's)come as a bundle with fuel rail stepper for idle control and injectors, they normally feed a 129 HP engine. They are meant for my L28 project, it all started with a engine fouling plugs, i started to look in to ignition, one thing lead to another, decided on EDIS and why not control EDIS with MS, not that more expensive than MegaJolt, when i have MS then why not go with ITB..........

You two, thanks for your reply. Mr. Bolt i know the right persons to have this done for the right kind of money (a little to none) and i want to make a heavier linkage using 10 millimeter rose joints just to make it more solid than the 8 m.m. i have now. Tony, you explained it well, my plan is to use 3 piece of 3/4x3/4 inch aluminium, have them drilled out and tapped in the ends, then connect them with brass fittings and plug the outer ends, i will then drill and tap the bungs (there is one at each runner) and then attach those aluminium bars with banjo fittings, in that way i can remove and plug when i have to sync. Does that sound as a plan or a waste of time, i do like the idea of better low end. Chris And just a teaser, my future plan.

Just curious, how would you attack that head ? Chris Btw. can't see the pics Ray

Deleted, due to double posting

LOL No smog stuff on my SU's Thanks alot for your explanation, the car is for street only, so i guess i can take advantage of a balance tube, the thing is that my manifold (Lynx witch i have found out is not the best)have a crappy linkage, i'm welding on 3/4 inch aluminimum towers, being that the present linkage is attached to a row of bungs and it is located 2 inch to low and 1 1/4 inch to close to the head, now after relocating the linkage, i will have those bungs avalible and got the idea of connecting the runners with a hollow aluminimum bar, mounted with banjo bolts to each runner, then on that bar i could drill and tap for brake booster and even crank vent, but before going in to all this efford, i needed to know, if it would be worth it. Chris

This might be the stupid question of the day, but i like to know if it will be a good idea to have a balance tube on the triple manifold or not, i have searched but not fount anything useful. Chris

It might be a little late, but if it is needed, i will gladly translate that spread sheet. Regarding advance curves, attached is a spread sheet i once picked up, somewhere on the internet, can't remember where, could have been here. Chris Distributor advance curves revision 1.pdf

Hi All On the back side of my -73 speedometer, is a device, it looks as a relay, it have 3 wires, one goes to the face disc and the two other goes in to the harness, any one know what that thing is for. Next thing is that i like to put my KM/H Fairlady speedometer guts in the -73 housing, in the Fairlady speedometer is two wires coming out, one from the face disk and the other.....?, i really don't know, any one know what that is for. I think the speedometer is for a model with 260 -280Z dash. Chris

Chris, got you on that one and i wish more people would follow that roule, i pulled a new wire from tach to coil, simple fix that will work until i give the car a big overhaul. Chris

Pharaohabq, thanks for the link, it didn't solve my problem, however i found the problem. Chris

Hi all, i hope this is posted at the right forum. I have a -73 240Z, the tach is not working, i pulled the tach for a bench test and it work, but not when installed in the car. The tach is a 3 wire model and so far i have found out that it works if i connect it to the negative side of the coil, however the tach wire in my harness is spliced in to the wire that goes from the ballast resistor to the positive side of the coil. On the back side of the coil is 3 wire, two next to each other, i assume those two are +/- and the last that connect to a bullit style connector is the trigger wire, do anyone have a wiring diagram for a -73 model, the one in the FSM shows a 4 wire unit and are useless to me. Can it be a 260Z tach, that the PO took the guts out of and swapped in the 240Z housing ? Any help is appreciated. Chris

What is that comment for, i just try to share the knowledge i get by reading what all the wise guys write on this forum and other places, instead of telling to use the search function, do you want me to take out the core plugs of my F54 to check or do you want to share what you know?...

Siamesed is a 54 casting, look at the side of the block. Chris