JBSRace1

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Axle retention device is a positive lock to keep the axle from separating from the differential like a C-clip eliminator for a GM 10 or 12 bolt. This is the portion of the rule I was referring too. "" Cars running 10.99 (*6.99) or quicker that weigh more than 2,000 pounds (907 kg) with independent rear suspension must have swing axle differential replaced with conventional differential housing assembly. ""

That is a bad azz Z no doubt. But how is he getting past NHRA tech? Or is he just doing test N tunes at none NHRA events? NHRA rule 2.3 REAREND After market axles and axle-retention device mandatory on any car running 10.99 (*6.99) or quicker and any car with locked differential. Cars running 10.99 (*6.99) or quicker that weigh more than 2,000 pounds (907 kg) with independent rear suspension must have swing axle differential replaced with conventional differential housing assembly.

Hey Stu I don't know if I can make the deal on the 28th? But I will be at Montgomary motorsports park on the 14th & 15th of may. If you get a chance stop by.

What kind of ET are you turning with that MPH? JB...158 is turning it on in the 1/4

I have not had a turbo but My 383 chevy V8 works good for me. Although I am sure there are faster ones around I have yet to run into one at any of dragstrips that I go to. I do not do much 1/4 mile racing mostly all 1/8th mile but I do go somewhere almost every weekend threw out the summer months. The last 1/4 mile pass I made was a 9.53 with a 1/8th mile time of 6.07 But now that the weather has been getting a little cooler I have been putting together a string of 6.02's the last few weeks. I am bracket racing and trying more for consistency than just ET so I am leaving the line at 3800 rpm to help hook on a less than perfect track. I believe that if I was to turn the leave RPM up to 4500 5.90's in the 1/8th would be no problem. Add a little N20 and it would really be a wild ride.

Thanks I will check them out.

Where is the best place to find a lower air dam like this one? I like that To me mine looks like crap in the front end.

Felpro 1003 is .039 thick but will only go up to a 4.155 bore. The 1004 is .041 thick and will go larger than 4.155 (This is what I recomend) Also there is the 1044 that is .051 thick. I run the 1003 on my 355 and the 1004 on my 377

Cool. I will. If you are ever up at Atlanta Dragway or MMP or Silver Dollar on a race day and see the JBS Racing trailer stop by. We are at a track somewhere about every weekend.

I wish I had known about it. We would have Def been there. Is there a Schedule of events? We Go to Silver Dollar a few times a year, when we have a open weekend. I would like to come to one of them.

I havent been around for a wile. I like the new look. Here is a pic of my Datsun. Hopefully we will be back at the track next weekend. I am looking for a new set of 1-7/8 headers that I can make fit. Any ideas?

Are the pics gone? Or am I just blind

The cross hole on the corvette mnt I told you about above is a little over 1" above the bottom bolt. I belive that it would work for you. If you have a part store that keeps alot of older parts see if they have one that you can look at.

60 ft times are 1.38 My dyno program puts that at about 59 mph. Trans is a 1.76 Glide

I went threw a simialar problem a few uears ago putting a 350 in a Toyota. I am not sure about the Napa numbers but the AutoValue # is a 31-2308HD. They came on 70-74 Corvette with a 454 I think it will work for you?

Thanks. I have sevearal #'s to call.

1: Angle plug 2: I Dont know what the ones that are in there now are for or who made them. But they have been hammerd almost closed in several places. 3: I am fixing to change engine combo to match my camaro. After years of working with it I found the most power and consistancy with headers of that size. 4: Yes Drag Only. 5: The Mtr that is in there now. Leaving at 3400 and shifting at 7000 runs 6.30's in the 1/8 @ 108. With the new engine combo it should run 5.80's

Who makes a good set of headers to fit in my 70 240 355 cid? Or would I be better off to just build my own? I have built sevearal sets in the past for my other cars but it takes alot of time and a pain in the A$$. I would like to find a set that would bolt on with out having to do alot of fabrication. Pref 1-3/4" pri with a 3-1/2" collector.

As a genaral rule if you Failed on Co it is running rich not lean. Hc is efected mostly by ignition Cap,rotor,plugs,wires. Nox is from to high combustion temps, EGR, Cat are the number 1 problems. If you where lean your Co would be low and Nox would also go up slightly becouse of the extra combustion heat from being lean. A air flow sensor can cause a rich condition but it should also make it run ruff as well. As stated above the O2 sensor will drasticly effect Co and need to be changed every couple of years and most never get changed until there is a drastic problem. Also a Vacume leak on a Fuel injected car will make a lean condition and the computer will try to correct it by making a rich condition. If you have a good mechanic at a shop you trust they should be able to find your problem fairly easy.

Katman The 18" I spoke of in the first post is total suspension travel from a rest to the point that the tires come off the ground. If you where to mesure from the front bumper to the ground on a leval surface. Then Start to jack up the car the bumper would raise up 18" before the tires would come off the ground. That is Alot. It is possible that someone has put the wrong struts in this car I have not had it that long. But with it limited to 4" it works like a dream. On a car with limited traction front end rise helps move more waight to the rear and helps traction but with enough traction it can be a pain. Limiting the front also helps get the tires out of the beams and improves reaction times & ET, the car is spending less time going up and more time going forward.