str8pipez

Finally got it installed. Had to remove the tach from behind the dash due to the dash cap. There is a "B" word that describes this and re-installing from the back. Not real interested in going down this road again but it's in, works and looks good.

I don't know man, those are nice and all but none of them have an exclamation mark

It is implied but I like a gentle reminder!

Behold...

Also these are rear MR2's in front. Tokico part #HR3099.

Stock MR2's. Rides just as well as the Eibach springs I had on it before, maybe even better. I also changed all the bushings to urethane so that may have something to do with as well. Definitely worth doing.

I don't know the SU, but I just re did the entire suspension on my 75, from bearings to camber plates and may be able to help in other areas. Where about in the city? I'm in Edwardsville but my business used to be in Mid Town near SLU.

Had a new shift and e-brake boot made to match closer to my Sparco seats. I had the blue stitch used to since the car is blue. Not bad for $20.

Ground Control coilovers with Ground Control camber plates and MR2 shocks.

I have considered having them re done in gloss black and still may. I think the matte is just too flat for that wheel. It needs something to define the spokes.

Just finished my coilovers, bushings, tie rods, ball joints, bearing, brakes, etc. First pics after it has sat for almost a month in my garage while I did the work. Alignment is next and then I guess I'll look for the next area of improvement. Love working on it but I hate having it down. I'm not feeling the wheels so if anyone is interested hit me up, I' be interested in a trade (no rewinds or rb's). the tire/wheel (Kumho 215/50-16) combo only has 1500 miles.

Can't make them for the price you can buy them for.

From now til April 1, all Speedhut guages are 20% off at the speedhut web site (speedhut.com). I just ordered the attached. Matches my paint (I hope).

The GC instructions look like they were drawn by a drubk guy. Yikes. I made a new template. GC Bolt in CAMBER.pdf

Nevermind, got some dimensions for GC, If anyone needs them let me know.

Anyone have the CAD file template for the GC bolt in coilovers referneced inthis thread? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/37606-ground-control-camber-plates/page__view__findpost__p__302291 The link is dead. Thanks.

Thanks, but want the 240 style.

Per the title, I'm looking for 2 "DATSUN" fender emblems from a 240. Thanks!

So I've been through lots and lots of posts on the topic of strut sectioning and I'm about to section mine (75 280Z, GC coilover kit from T3) but wanted to post a couple of pics and questions. Sorry if this has been covered 100X's, but it's as clear as mud. 1. I have Tokico 3099's for the front. The are 1.5" shorter than the 3012's. I assume I section the strut tube 1.5" as well? 2. I have the lower GC perch welded on 5" (8" on the back) from the casting per the GC instructions. Does it make any difference where the sectioning is provided I don't get into the threads for the gland nut? 3. For the rear I was going to use the 3013's that were installed by the PO and are fairly new. I was going to cut 1.5" off the spacer and 1.5" out of the tube. Does any of this sound reasonable? I will also be adding the GC bolt in camber plate and the front insulators to the rear. Also any thoughts on CO's without sectioning the tubes with a camber plate in front and the front insulators in the rear? I'm not going to auto x's, just street use with a more aggresive stance. Thanks in advance and sorry to beat a dead horse, but better safe than sorry!

Video attached. May be a little low res but should give the idea. This is the second pin. image.mov

Second side came out as well! I used a center punch to tap it out, but essential it was a 2 minute breeze. I caught it on video but it's very pixelated. Trying to see if I can fix the quality. As a bonus (if I need one) the PO of the car had the new urethane bushings for both rear control arms.

I'm going to video the other side tomorrow. If it works again I'll post it.

While preparing for the coilover conversion on my 75, I pulled the entire nut of parts from each side of the car as a complete unit to weld on the new perch, clean things up, change bushings, etc. While I had it out and after reading all the horror stories about removing spindle pins I thought I'd leave it alone and work around it. But the damn thing just kept staring my in the face, DARING me to try and remove it. Curioustiy got the best of me and I decided to give it a try. I took off the bolts, removed the pin and tapped on the end a few times with a hammer, shot some WD and bam! I PULLED IT OUT WITH MY HAND! Victory is mine. Through everything I've done on this car (entire front end, headers, etc.) I have yet to have a bolt or nut fight me. Knock on wood. Like Valentino Rossi says "it has a soul and looked my into the eyes and said "I love you"." My realtionship with this car was meant to be.

Did you use weld in or bolt in camber plates?

Did you use weld in or bolt in camber plates?