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ramblinon9

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About ramblinon9

  • Birthday 05/05/1990

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    Bernville, PA

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  1. Sweet build! Definitely great motivation! Any updates??
  2. Bump for another previous customer curious about new bumpers.
  3. Hmm, according to the original post that not all the outlet fittings from every single car will fit into the wilwood MC. I have also found this to be true, first with my 240z's MC fittings being totally different. And then again with my 280z's MC fittings which looks to be an aftermarket replacement. So I'm not sure where you are coming from when you say any S30/S130 MC outlet fittings will fit. And as for the check valves are concerned I plan on leaving the factory Wilwood's in and seeing how it goes. Plus one of my fittings was rounded from previous owner repairs so it just made sense to me to do it this way. Just sharing what I ran into for anyone else who might be interested in doing the swap...
  4. Just a quick little note to anyone thinking about doing this. The "plugs" as they call them/outlet fittings for the MC that were referred to in the original post are no longer available through courtesy parts. Or anywhere else that I called. So like most people have done posting on this it is probably easiest to make new lines with 3/8's fittings one end and 10 mm on the other to make this work. Only costs an extra 10 bucks total. I will be finishing this hopefully this weekend! Thanks a lot!
  5. No problem man, that's what I'm here for. Don't hesitate to ask!
  6. Oh and I'm running 205/45 in the rears and 205/40 front. Kumho ecsta's ast. IMO I would have liked a little more stretch in the front but Kumho's run a little wide compared to say a fallken 512 which damn near everyone runs.
  7. Luckkyyy I wish I could have had them machined out rather than running such a big adapter, but oh well. As far as center hex's go, if you're going to be mounting flat onto hub surface you should definitely be able to run full height hex's, possibly half heights. Quarter heights and flat caps are almost certainly out of the question. My quarter heights wouldn't clear the dust caps and I wasn't even flat against the hub surface yet. That is just my experiences with my wheels. Depending on the back pad depth of your centers it could change, there are many variables that come into play with these things. I almost called it quits many times when I was building mine, realllllly got frustrated. But just stick with it, the look is superb. And hopefully you'll have better luck with yours since I just kind of went for it without much planning, sounds like you have your stuff together a lot more than I did before hand haha. As far as being the first, I wasn't the first either, I found a few pics of rs's on an s30. They weren't a "fitted" look though. Plus you're gonna beat me to running rs's with flares! I wanted to do that originally but I'm scared to cut my fenders haha. Anyway, picture time!
  8. Check the center bore of your centers. I'm running a set of rs's on my 76' and the center of the bore didn't clear my front hub. Not sure on specs of different years. I ended up running a 25 mm adapter to make them work. I have some pics of my car if you're interested. I'm at 16x8 with a 2 inch lip up front. And 16x9 with 2.5 inch lip. But I'm not running flares just tried to fill out the stock fenders.
  9. I suspected the water temp sensor also so I ran through a few tests per fsm like you suggested, and sure enough the wire running to the sensor was corroded and exposed. I cut the bad section of wire out and put a temporary jumper in and sure enough she fired right up! Thanks a lot! Now to solve my richness. I ran it tonight with the cold start disconnected and it seemed a little bit better. Which makes me wonder if my thermotime is bad. Because it appears to be a new cold start valve. Off the the bible I go! Thanks again!
  10. I bought another z in may from a fellow member back in may. It appears to be completely stock drivetrain wise. I drove it a few times and it ran fine. I the did some Suspension work that took it off the road for about a month. I then got it back driving and it was fine for a while. I ran about half a tank through it with some Lucas oil injector cleaner. Then filled it and took it home. Swapped in some new plugs because it was running rich. Ran fine. Then the problems start. I took it out for about an hour drive one day and it seemed to have a high idle and may have been running a little warm. I took it home and it sat for a day. Then two days later I went to start it and it started but sounded down a few cylinders and was pushing a huge cloud of bluish white smoke out of the tailpipe. I didn't have any time to really look at it but a few days later I tried starting it and the same thing. Then a few days after that it ran completely fine and I was excited. But then a day after that it's back down cylinders and burning oil. I tried it last Night swapped back to the original plugs and still same thing. Does anyone have any idea of whats going on? Headgasket? Rings? Injectors? I plan on doing a compression test as soon as I have time. I was about to start goig through the efi bible to get the tune a little better but now i don't even know where to start.
  11. My name is Christian Schlegel and I am from Pennsylvania. I am looking to buy the car that mchong75 has for sale in the classifieds forum. But unfortunately I can't see the car myself because it is located in Texas. I need someone who is willing to check the car out for me and get a second opinion other than the seller himself. Some financial compensation will certainly be involved. So if there is anyone interested in helping a fellow hybridz'er in purchasing another z let me know. Thanks -Christian
  12. Alright cool sounds like a good idea. Fuel pressure is a solid 40 psi at idle. Has been since I got it. Do you think I should take the injectors out and clean them first, or just drain the take and lines. Then put some fresh shell in there with some seafoam and MMO and see what happens. Also another thing, I bought new injector holders and seals. But when I tighten the screws down into the manifold it kind of slides the seals down the injector body. Almost like the holders arent tall enough and the metal top part pulls the seal down with it. I'll see if I can get some pictures of this. Its kind of hard to explain. But if you know what I mean do you think this could cause varnish to appear on the injectors.
  13. they arent getting clogged with chunks of anything i think theyre getting varnish on them and thats what clogs them. that being said what can be done to prevent varnishing? i only drove the car a total of a half hour and some got clogged within that half hour. and that was after i put the new injectors in. i dont know what to do. its fresh gas with some seafoam in it...
  14. fuel filter isnt the problem. had a few spots of dirt but I cleaned that out. Then I decided to pull the one injector that was clogged and I found it was and cleaned it with some TB cleaner and put it back in. It started and ran pretty good until I got it out on the road and it went back down a cylinder. I got it back home and found that now it was on my number 1 cylinder. So I pulled that injector and cleaned it. Started up, barely got it turned around in my driveway and now it seems like its down about three cylinders. Does anyone have any ideas of what the hell is going on???
  15. filter is a jegs unit. last time i checked it was clear but ill check it again when i get a chance.
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