rickyellow zee

So it should die. Its clearly not running properly. ideas?

Btw sorry for the typos. damn cell phones are hard to type on.

I have done that and things are as they should be. The car should run like shit with the chts unplugged right? Maybe tge car is running closed loop when it ignores tge chts?

It does open up. When the car is warmed up the idle drops to around 500-700 rpm from 1000rpm...a little low in my opinion. As it is the aac and the egr are not hooked up but are capped off.

I have idle and start up issues. The car is a 280z with L28et swap. It seems that my car runs the same with or without the chts plugged in. I have continuity from plug to ecu connector and i checked the snsor itself. All things checked out ok. Still the idle is lumpy and it struggles to start.I thought this would be a chts issue. Any help is appreaciated.

Heres a hypothetical question. What would happen if you had the knock sensor unplugged on an L28ET turbo? Would this throw the eccm into closed loop, open loop at idle and retard timing? Would the engine operate as normal at idle? Just wanna know. Thanks 'Rick

Are there any differences between the 280zx turbo and 280zx NA throttle bodies within the same year? I need a throttlebody for my L28ET and a local guy is selling one from the NA L28ET.

The mystery relay is the air conditioning relay and the plug looks like something that was added somewhere along the line.

78 280Z 5 speed trans.

Im trying to sort out some issues with my 280z. First off Im not getting power to my air regulator so I traced the green wire from the air regulator which is supposed to go to the fuel pump relay (I think?) and I see this. Cut harness. Anyone know where these wires are supposed to go? Looks like there is a relay in the black box with nothing attached. Any ideas as to what relay and where these wires were supposed to go? I think the previous owner wired in a new fuel pump and did it his own way. lol Thanks

Page 59 in the fsm in the ef and ec section supports your methods. At zero vac 36-37 psi fuel pressure and at 20 inHg 26-28 psi. Gonna set it to that and be done with it. Thanks.

In the fsm it says at idle 30 psi and when pedal fully depressed 37 psi. it does not say if its for the turbo or na model though.

Ahh. Right now its set to 36 psi at 18-20 vacume. Does not run very well at all like this. Super rich as is.

I have an aftermarket AEM fuel pressure regulator and need to know hot to set it for proper stock fuel pressure which I believe is 36 psi? My question is should it be 36 psi at 18-20 vacume? Or 36psi at zero vacume? To achieve 0 vacume do I need to remove the vacume line to the FPR to get to zero? Unsure of how to do this properly. There is too many different ways I have researched on the net( they cant be all right, conflicting info)and need to know what is the correct way to set this up. Its a 78 280Z with a stock L28ET swap. Thanks Rick

Well it still idles like poo. I hooked it up as stock as possible but without the VCM. It goes throttlebody port to air regulator, regulator to AAC. AAC vacume hooked up to manifold. When idle the AAC opens raising the idle, under boost aac closes. air regulator also bumps up idle when cold. It idles best this way so far. Still not perfect though and I strive to have this car running as good as possible. Will not settle for anything else. On a related note...I am not getting voltage to the air regulator now. I checked continuity on the black wire which goes to the ECU and I get continuity. The green wire goes to the fuel relay which I no works cause the car gets fuel. Why no volatge to the air regulator? Makes no sense at all. As it is the air regulator stays open till it gets heated from the intake mani. Any suggestions? Thanks for all your help thus far. Never give up!

So cap the AAC and the port on throttlebody and just use the idle screw to set idle. I will try this and reply with results. Nothing worse than following a thread and the original poster never gets back with results. Thanks.

My aac is the one without the adjustment screw. Okay so I will use the intake vacume to controll the AAC. Do I need to use the air regulator along with the aac?(throttle body to air regulator to AAC) or just go from the throttle port located on top of the throttlebody to the AAC? I have an 82 air regulator with the coolant fittings on the side but its not installed. My thorttlebody is an 78 with the cold start valve(not used), idle screw and throttle bypass on top. Currently the throttle bypass hose is capped. Thanks again. Rick.

I have an L28ET swap in my 78 280z. Completeley stock. It is missing the VCM which controlls the EGR and the AAC. As a result the idle is low and its hard to start( not enough air at startup?). How are you guys with similar set ups controlling the idle? Ive tried a number of things like adjusting the air bypass screw on the air flow meter and idle screw on the throttle body but all Im getting is a hunting idle(revs up and down). Could I use a vacume from the intake mani to controll the AAC. At idle the vacume would open the AAC allowing more air in and at open throttle it would close due to boost. Would this work?Any help would be much appreaciated. Thanks Rick

sorry wrong forum. please delete.

My idle is going up and down which usually means i have a vacume leak. I've checked my vacume lines and everything checks out fine. my question to you is will a improperly adjusted idle speed adjustment screw(on throttlebody ) cause my idle to roam? Also will a improperly adjusted air by pass screw( on air flow meter) also cause a fluctuating idle? Thanks for reading. Rick.

Great, can you send some pix please? Thanks Rick

Hello, I need a vacume controll module (VCM) for a 83 280zx turbo. 5 speed. THanks Rick

People usually block off the relief valve if they plan on uping the boost. As for the factory bov if you plan on adding an aftermarket one on the intercooler pipng there is no use for the factory installed one.you could just cap it off. Do you plan on re circulating the bov or venting to atmosphere? The factory design itself is great in that it recirculates the vented boost so you dont run rich between gears.The downside is you dont get the woosh that sounds so cool. ita a toss up really.

Check your CHTS and see if its up to specs. If its faulty your car will run like poop.

Im running no intercooler at the moment but plan on installing one. As for the ecu its from an 81,so is the afm. The dizzy is from an 83. I have since had the timing set to 20 deg btdc and had some success with getting some power to the wheels. So much in fact that i felt the clutch slip as i hit 4500 rpm. Now i need a new clutch. This car seems doomed. lol I have a prescision intercooler that came off of one of my other turbo cars that i plan on using once i get the clutch issue resolved.