AkRev

This topic is a double post. Here is what I posted in the other thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117722-felpro-gasket-question/ That is a loaded question. Yes, you state that your surfaces are flat and clean, but at what finish? Your prep of the surface really dictates what type of gasket and products you can use (or should). Most of the horror stories could be explained by three things; No prep work, too harsh of prep work from machine shops, and my favorite, those that use fine grit sandpaper to prep the surface. http://www.frontiern...meyer/fpro.html Based on assumptions, I would say not needed. Assumptions; prep is within spec, new gasket, and gasket is designed to be used without the copper spray.

That is a loaded question. Yes, you state that your surfaces are flat and clean, but at what finish? Your prep of the surface really dictates what type of gasket and products you can use (or should). Most of the horror stories could be explained by three things; No prep work, too harsh of prep work from machine shops, and my favorite, those that use fine grit sandpaper to prep the surface. http://www.frontiernet.net/~tmeyer/fpro.html Based on assumptions, I would say not needed. Assumptions; prep is within spec, new gasket, and gasket is designed to be used without the copper spray.

It has been a crazy week. My wife and I just had our 4th child (boy). Most of week was spent helping out around the house and with the newborn. I was lucky enough to get a few moments to work on the Z. Started off by draining the gas tank and cleaning up around the garage. Then I moved back into blasting the engine bay. Only surprise was with the drivers side area. I had mentioned back when I pulled the fenders that I found rust around the pinch weld at the top. The part that I did not see was how the rust went down into the cavity below it and rusted out around the seam below. The POR-15 and undercoating on the other side hid the damage from me until I blasted. But things are moving along very well.

Just a note, you can run tunerstudio's auto tune with a 160 thermostat. To do so, please go to advance settings (the tab next to Status in the auto tune window http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt119/isacaraujo/megasquirt/02c31d62.gif) and update the minimal CTL.

Also, one last thing. This part is is from http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtii-ems-system-smd-pcb357-assembled-ecu-p-171.html " 5 volt ignition output (JS10 jumpered directly to pin 36) for EDIS, Bosch 124, or GM HEI ignition control" I know that you you have a work order that shows how they have spark A go to pin 36. But in case there is anyone else reading this I want to provide more information so this is not misleading to anyone. In looking at this picture. In the upper left you see the jumper from pin 36 to; The bottom right wire connection on that picture (PAD1). Also if you look at this picture, you will notice that JS10 is jumped to S12C and is used for other options that SeattleJester purchased from DIY. The stock ms2 3.57 is jumpered so that the settings will run JS10 and not D14. SeattleJester's is modified for D14. BTW SeattleJester, your boost control is jumpered on J11, I noticed that you do not have that turned on yet in tunerstudio, when you do please select J11. Good luck

So, Read some more.... and noticed something else Please go to your Ignition Settings - Ignition Options- Wheel decoder. Take a look at your setting on Number of Coils. Please change your setting from Wasted Spark to Wasted COP. Excuse me why I go beat myself.

Must admit, that bummed me out when I read that last night. Had some time to reread and look at this a bit harder. There is a bit of conflicting information out there about the Logic level settings between "Going high" and "Going Low." I am going to read more on this and try and find a definitive answer. One thing I want to check with you, what pins are you using to connect the logic drivers to the coils? Your work order specifies Pin 36 for spark A (DB37), Pin 10 for spark B (DB15), and Pin 11 for Spark C (DB15). Just want to make sure you have the Spark A on the 37 pin and the other two on the 15 pin.

Good luck tomorrow, I hope it works and solves your problems. Jeff is nuts, he is so tired and ready for the car to be done. I should clarify he is my brother in-law's brother. But ya, I am going to get a lecture on my car if I do not powder coat everything and clean it to death. I will keep an eye out tomorrow and see if there is anything more I can help with. Good luck

I hope so. As for your car running poorly, yes that would do it. I really hope things have not been damaged from doing so. Please test them out and see if this solves the problem. I apologize for for not catching this earlier, as soon as i opened the link on the Miatatubo forum I knew what was wrong. BTW, the 10k capacitor is optional on the ground, my in-law just had one heck of a scare when he did the polarity backward on his and it exploded. (http://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/93-miata-stolen-flipped-build-thread-75474/page103/)

My Link was messed up, Go to the top of the page of that link.

Well, I feel dumb now. Think i got it figured out. You are using logic level drivers. You are not "Going high." http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/sparkout-v357.html#3coils Please update your settings as show for the Logic level ignition output. I am sorry this is short (time is a premium) your build sheet specifies Logic Level, and your coils are that also (assuming from the Miata build COP) MS3 has logic level built into it. You have your settings at "Going high" This refers to using the BIP do drive the ground supply to run the coil. Going low is for Logic Level. Please check my reasoning and Madkaw please chime in if I am wrong.

Alright, Sorry if I am missing something, but let me make sure I see this right. Do you only have one BIP373? (My wife and I just had a new addition to the family this week so my eyes might be missing something.) You will need one BIP373 for each 2 cylinders to run wasted spark. (http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_bosch_bip373s_with_megasquirt.htm) " Now, you will be constructing duplicates of this BIP373 circuit for each coil output you need. For a 1 cylinder, you'll use 1 output; for more cylinders, you will use 1 output for every 2 cylinders. You can mount the additional BIP373s on a second heat sink stacked on top of the first, attached on top with long screws. Or you can mount the BIP373s to the case."

Good to know, I will have some time to take a look at this in the morning and see what I can find out.

Took some time this past week to set up my garage, fix the hose to the air compressor, and tested out a few spots on the car. My attempt with walnut shells was really slow on the fire wall. It was slow, but it was working. I then moved to the passenger side of the car. I could not get the walnut shells to get through the POR 15. I went replaced the walnut shells with other products and went to town. The POR 15 came up and took the car down to metal like I wanted. There was a few areas that I took a putty knife to be able to get some kind of seam sealer that had been smeared all over the side and then painted over. (Looked like factory paint layer) Over all this was about 30 min of work (wish I had more time). Excited to start getting the engine bay striped, patched, and primed. Speaking of paint. It has been a long time since I painted a car, it appears that products have changed. If you have any recommendations on an automotive etching primer that works well, please PM me or drop a reply for others to read.

Sorry to hear. After looking at the tooth logs last time, I noticed that it was still counting the teeth right, just with a lot of sync loss. So, to go from here I would recommend a few things; First, confirm wiring to coils. (could you post how you wired it up so we could see?) Second, You know what cylinder one is outputting (10btdc and 20 atdc) what are the other cylinders showing? I am looking through the settings from before and nothing is jumping out to me about the spark settings. Maybe someone with more MS3 experience can chime in and help confirm your settings inside MS.

Nice turbo, and nice build. I have the same turbo, and I really like it. I have to ask, are you planing on running the coolant lines for the turbo or cap them? Also, I keep in mind that the t28 runs a specific oil restrictor, in looking at the photos, whoever sold you the turbo kept the restrictor fitting. Looks nice.

Nice, glad you got those sorted out. Good luck on Saturday.

Yep, judging by the fact you are getting smoked out of the garage and flame out by the transmission tunnel. My assumptions is that you are running too rich. In general (bad timing excused), fire out of the exhaust is a sign of too rich. The opposite of that is the lean "pops" that can be heard through the intake. Due to the fact that I am not there, I just slightly leaned out the cranking pw and priming pw. I would sugest more leaning, but try that first and see if it was an improvement or a step back. After you get your car running and start to adjust the ve table/bins, you will need to revisit those settings (since they are based on % of the VE bins.) Good luck today.

Took a moment to play around with the ASE and the cranking settings from your msq on the last page. Take a look and see what you think. To be honest, I would not do much until you get your oil issue sorted out, spark checked, and afr confirmed (I still think your settings are too rich... but better rich than lean.) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByA2lDE2waj_MTFFb1djdDg4d1U/edit?usp=sharing

If you look at the underside of the top, the studs are pressed in (kind of like wheel studs). Press out the studs and look for a replacement from spare parts or source new ones. Glliw makes a great point that you can get them cut with new threads. Just make sure that you do not change the size drastically as this will affect strength of the studs.

Looked around a little bit, found some interesting info on this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/85340-intake-manifold-porting-and-injector-upgrade/ Also found another good read here. http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0704_pitstop_fuel_injector_location/ Nice fuel rail by the way.

Good luck with your machinist/welder friend today.

First off, I am not trying to discourage out of the box thinking in anyway. I do have a few thoughts and concerns about the spray pattern of your EV1 with single intake valve engine. If you look at the spray pattern of the EV1 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu25-ObPUGM) it appears to me that it is designed for a 4 valve head. I understand that the spray is a better atomisation, but does the increase of wall saturation actually decrease efficiency? However, without first hand experience with the injectors, I have no idea if the spray angle would even be great enough to cause the increase in wall saturation or if the injector is mounted close enough to spray at the ideal spot. Hopefully, someone that has ventured into this territory could give some feedback on this, as I would like to know for myself too. Thanks for taking the time to post your adventures.

The Good: Side skirts are off! The Bad: And The Ugly: I was actually going to use a picture of a massive amount of spider sacks that had been hiding under the side skirts for the ugly... but the picture did not come out right.... and I got rid of them before I took a moment to look at the picture. I really hate spiders (see post 28)

What is your current gap between your wheel and hall sensor? They recommend a 1.5mm as the max gap. With my VR sensor I ended up mounting it with a .020 inch gap, or about half a millimeter. (just a note, make sure your wheel is truly centered before you set your hall sensor to it...... ask me how I know this....) As for the input pots, you can handle that however you want. I would offer that you go full counterclockwise and then set it to your base. After you get a log from base then make your adjustments to get to where you need it without returning to 0 every time. From what I am researching, most with a hall sensor have just left it at the base, and adjusted gap to make it work. Have you had a chance to chase down the lack of oil pressure reading yet? Good Luck!