AkRev

Are you using the same wiring harness that you are using for the ms1. Main reason I ask, I had to add a few ground wires when I moved to MS2 http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/grounds.html

I can not open your file right now, before you get too far double check for vacuum leaks or broken hoses. Something had to change to cause the sudden change, it sounds like spark to me, check for interference. If your vr sensor is picking up interference then the first spark with be dead on but the other 5 cylinders will be off. I hooked my vr sensor up backwards one day and it threw me for a loop cyl #1 was dead on, but all of the others ones had been off by quite a bit causing some intake popping. Good Luck,

Yes, I had to run a jumper power wire to the upper left when looking at it with your head by the peddles (I think, I have rewired everything and can not check and tell you for sure). I had the same problem, finally went out with a live wire and just started putting it in different places until pump kicked on. In hindsight, it is not smart to work on electrical systems when you are mad and hanging upside down. I would suggest using a new relay and letting MS run the Fuel pump. I ditched the oil sensor relay in favor of the ms due to slightly faster starts from the prime cycle. I was paranoid at first because I liked the idea of the car not able run with no oil in there. However, I just wired the hand brake light to my oil sensor relay so now I do not need to watch the center gauge in fear (my lazy attempt at a idiot light). Good Luck,

I might be too late with this, but if you are still scratching your head this might help. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/moreinfo.htm its not just the oil pressure switch that runs the fuel pump. Good luck

Check your key switch. It is two parts, I had a problem like that. One day the key turned but the car stayed running. Turned out to be the switch behind the key, the plastic had worn out.

Funny, I have owned Chevy's all of my life, right now I have a 2002 TDI and a 98 BMW 3 series, both over 200,000 miles and little to no problems. I also got a 6.0 suburban with piston slap that I almost need to give away to get rid of it. (and it has been nothing but trouble the whole time I have owned it) As for the OP, I would love to see a Z with over 40 mpg.

Been a little bit since an update. Got frustrated when I got the S14 subframe tacked back into place and noticed that wheel was off center. Took a grinder with a cutoff wheel to the car and cut everything off and started over. Ended up sliding everything forward a little more than half an inch. Got all of the mounts welded in place and made it so that the subframe can be bolted in place fairly easy. the only problem I have so far is how to mount the leading upper control arm without destroying the ability to use the stock rear seat. (I have three boys that like going for a ride in my cars) Alright, got the car off the jack stands and set the camber. Turned out like I thought it would. Ignore the mess in the garage, I had not cleaned up for the day yet.

Jaguar C type

Sorry problems with my computer.

+1 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/82361-motor-oil-school/page__hl__zinc

When it is slowly turning over, is the speed constant or does it have some pulses in it as it cranks? If your starter is healthy it will be a constant speed and sound. If your starter is on the way out, it will have speed pulses and dim the dash lights during the slow part after the pulse and make a chug sound as it spins. Hope that might help you. Good luck.

Once I had an old clutch lose one of its contact pads (broke off the rivets) had similar problems that you are describing except the part about wanting to move in neutral.

My first picture on the post got removed. Here is that picture. Small update, got the engine running strong on Megasquirt, waiting for a Lc-1 controller to tune it. Tacked the S14 subframe in place only to find out that it needs to go forward about 1/2" to center in the wheel well. (More fun with a cut off wheel and welder) Started wiring the whole car. The old wiring had some short-cuts after the fire to get it up and running. Using a fuse and relay box out of a 94 Maxima. On a side note, anyone have a good free image hosting site? I would like one that does not open a new tab when the picture is clicked.

I see your point, however you are doing a lot of assuming. You are assuming that no one has taken off anything from the head or the block. If you resurface the deck or the head you change the distance on those marks. (chain is the same lenght but distances from cam to crank is not) From the ones I have worked on, I think only one has been dead on with the marks when I went to dial it in. Take the time to dial it in, or you are just going to let Murphy's law take over you next few weekends.

Measure the inside diameter of the hose, common sizes are in " fractions. (1/4" 3/8" 1/2" ect...) Also you can just pull one of the more common hoses off, go to an auto part store, and ask for how ever much you need.

Alright it is time that I introduce my car. I have a 1978 280z 2+2. I am the technically the second owner. The original owner is my best friend from high school. His dad drove it until about 95, he got involved in a hit and run and the insurance wanted to total the car (for a damaged door and a small dent in the fender). He decided not to total it and let his son work on the car. Growing up we would alternate working at my house on my car (56 Ford) and then at his house on the Z. Here is a picture of the Z back in 2002 on our senior year of high school. The car at that time had a turbo block with flat top pistons n42 head (I think) with a camshaft that came from Nissan back in early 80’s. Also, if anyone happens to know about these camshafts let me know. What I have been told by the original owner is back in the early 80’s Nissan offered a performance camshaft that could be ordered through the dealer. He got this then had it installed but no longer has the specs for the camshaft. Here is the sad part, the reason why this car has some bad karma, in 2003 it appears that the brake line leaked and shot fluid onto the header and started a fire. Would have not been so bad if the battery did not explode as the fire was almost put out (anyone that has seen this happen knows what I am talking about). Here are some sad pictures. Now at the time I was in college at Texas Tech, I came back down to Houston and helped get the car back on the road. We ditched the FI system and went with triple carbs. The wiring was a nightmare and the car was a pain to clean up after the fire, but the car was back on the road. After that I slowly lost connection with my high school friend. About a year ago I got a BMW for my daily driver. The sound reminded me so much of the Z I decided that I needed a project car. I spent forever looking for a good car, but I was not happy with any of them. I gave up looking for a bit. I by chance got ahold of my old friend, after talking on the phone for a while I mentioned that I miss the old Z and have been looking for a good one. He jokingly put out there why not buy mine. Two months later here is what shows up. The car had been on jack stands for years. Floors are solid, under batter try is solid, spare tire is mostly solid…. the rear end, however, is NOT solid at all. He had pulled the rear suspension five years ago and had started mocking up the sub frame from an s14 on to the Z. Once he had tacked it in place he never had time to go back and finish it up. As the car was shipped the tack welds broke and the sub frame was sitting on the trailer (was not fun unloading). This is why the tires look tilted. I will use this thread to keep updates on my car and see if the bad karma is over or not. Enjoy and thanks in advance for any help.

Sorry, I will explain better. It was pin #2 on the DB37. This is the shielding wire is labeled IGN on the harness. 12V power got connected to it and burned a small section of the board under the DB37 (about 2mm wide burn). As far as I can tell nothing else got ruined. The Megasquirt was assembled about eight years ago, and has always worked great. I got the car started and seams to idle fine. I plan on taking her for her first drive in about three weeks (got to get the rear end finished up) I have not really posted anything about my car, and I know everyone like pictures, the first picture is my car back in 2001, and the second is close to how my car looks today. I will explain the story soon in the members projects forum.

Alright, I get to own up to this one. First of all thanks for the help. The MS is fine, turns out that there was a burn on the board under the DB37, ended up nothing serious got damaged. During this whole process the fuse to my ignition blew and that is why MS would not turn on. (it is always the easy things that get overlooked) Thanks again and sorry to waste your time.

Matt you are the man, I will check those tonight.

Alright, I had my brother in-law over helping me put the Z back together. After everything was ready to go I got in and turned the key. The Megasquirt did not turn on, I immediately turned off everything and noticed a small puff of smoke come out of the box. After going through all the wiring, this is what I found out; my brother in-law took the gray wire from pin #2 labeled IGN and thought that meant to wire it ignition. Alright so here are the main details. Running MS1-e 3.0 (worked five years ago before the car was put to rest on jack stands) Power was on for about 3 seconds through the #2 pin before I turned off the key. (Dime size puff of smoke came out) It is now wired correctly but MS will not turn on. Really what I am looking for is some direction if anyone has seen or had a similar experience. I do not have a simulator board. Visual inspection of the board it appears that everything is normal. I will start going through http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3trouble.htm tomorrow. I am just looking if to see if I could get some pointers. Also, I am sorry I have not introduced myself here on the forms, I will shortly, just trying to have a car to introduce.

If I was in your position; First, know if i am doing this for performance or for looks. (just because it is an emissions part does not make your car go slower) Second, I would find a car that you like with similar carb or FI setup, and use a picture of the engine bay to model after. Third, if you do not know what it is or how it works, do not touch it until you do. (factory service models and search are your friends) If all else fails, take a picture and post it up with a question. Edit: factory service manuals.... I need to reread what I type before I post, or put the bottle down.

yep, not from a zx though. Cancer started showing around the old one, cut it all out and fit in "modern" one from a newer car.

yep, it has been done.