AkRev

If you wouldn't mind, that would be nice. Although I might offer that we take this discussion to a new thread or PM me so I do not feel like I am thread jacking too bad. Thanks 1vicissitude.

Looks like there are a lot of sync loss at low rpm. It looks like you have the sync loss gauge on your dashboard. Keep adjusting your inputs and gap until you get that worked out. Did you adjust the inputs after the video but before the datalog on post #34? I ask because it seems like it would be reading the teeth well enough to not be firing at the 40 atdc.

Back at things, Been doing small things every day to keep it up. For the past week I have removed the drivers' side rear suspension. As you can tell by the amount of paint chips, most of my time was spent removing paint. I took a few moments to hook up my sandblaster and blast with the walnut shells. My air line has a leak from an old hose. Because of this my air compressor had a hard time keeping up with the sandblaster, and it would keep getting clogged. Instead of just wasting my time, I will come back to the blaster when I have a new hose. The rust is a bit worse than I thought. But it looks like it is fairly concentrated to the one spot, Alright, now for the best part of the week. I finally got one of those pesky side-skirts off. It was not fun. 11 rivets, tons of fiberglass resin, and some kind of glue on the corners that was really annoying.

If I understand you right, you see spark at 6 deg. BTDC and 40 deg. ATDC. If you are seeing this, you need to adjust your screws on your board inputs again. http://msextra.com/doc/ms3/ignition.html#vrv357pull Others can correct me if I am wrong, but if I remember right, megasquirt will read "extra" teeth, and spark early based on the number of teeth it reads. If the it would count the 35 teeth, it would then wait for the missing tooth on the trigger wheel and restart over again. I had a similar situation when I ran a single coil off of the DIY wheel and had the inputs at full counter clockwise. As for the oil pressure sensor, I put the sealant at the base of the threads. That way when the thread are screwed in the tip can still make a good electrical connection. You can check resistance with a multi-meter and see if it is a grounding problem or just something is else is wrong with the sensor/wiring. Glad to see you get some progress on it. Good luck! Edit: Just noticed it was a video that you posted. Its hard to tell if it is misfiring, but it kind of sounds like it is. If you can get your timing light under the car and confirm that it is only firing twice (on the 6 btdc and 40 atdc) that might confirm what I was saying. Nice set up by the way. Excited to see you post a video of a drive sometime soon.

Your cranking dwell of 8ms seems like the cause of the of your 20 amp fuses blowing. I am not too knowable with your set up, but this might help. http://www.useasydocs.com/theory/setdwell.htm Edit: NewZed beat me to it.

Forgot to add, my priming pulse is 0.8ms. I believe you are running a 1JZ, do you have a "proven" map to compare basic settings?

It looks like you are flooding out the engine. Are the plugs wet? Reason I say this is your priming pulse (assuming 60 degrees) is 14ms and cranking is 200% of the VE table with 440 injectors. To be honest I use about 5ms cranking pulse with half the injector flow (my MS is pw for cranking and not ve% like yours) You have flood clear set at 50% tps, Make sure your tps is calibrated and floor the petal to clear out and confirm. Good luck, Thanks for sharing your results with the Hall sensor, that gives me a good direction with my car.

Off topic, but I am most impressed with the functional side skirts.

Looks good! Good luck.

That is interesting. That makes me wonder if the hall sensor is as easily susceptible to noise like the VR sensors are. In general they state that hall sensors have a high degree of positional accuracy over the VR. I was using the msextra site as a bible. http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Dizzy.htm Makes the claim about the hall sensor needing a flying magnet wheel. If the hall works with the diy 36-1 wheel, I might just get one to try out and see if that can cure some of the noise issues I can still see in my logs.

Thanks Ed! About that fiberglass patch under the side skirt. I found that one a wile ago.... and I got a mouth full of it. When I was crawling under the car to work on the rear subframe, I spotted what appeared to be a massive spider egg-sack on the side skirt, inches from my face. I was thinking about how I did not want to touch it when I notice it started to move. Naturally, I did what most guys would do that hate spiders, I swung a 17mm wrench at spider and egg-sack. With the foresight of an ape, I managed to get dislodge this fiberglass patch and get a face full of the dust, rust, and pineneedles that had been on the rocker above my face. It was fun, I had junk in my eyes, and I knew I hit spider but had no idea what happen to this spider and could not look around to confirm where the spider was before I shimmied my rear end out from under a car that I wish I had lifted a few inches higher... I really hate spiders! Anyway, Still striping away on the body of the Z. Got the rear up in the air and pulled the passenger side suspension and the drivers side strut. Spent most of Saturday cleaning up around the house and the garage. Got my sand blaster and air compress out. Looking to tackle a few rust spots and blast them first so I can start metal work. I still have yet to find my metal working tools, so I might be back on clean up and unpacking for a few days this week.

NedZed, you are correct. The 36-1 are designed to work with the edis system. These are VR based. Good catch, I read over that the first time.

I realized after the fact that my potentiometer settings will not help you due to the fact of how many variables there are in every setup. Hope things are going better with the DIY wheel. Here is a pic of how I drilled mine to the outside of the pulley. I will keep it mounted this way but I will move the sensor when it comes time to put the engine back in the car.

I must admit VR sensors are a pain. I am very happy with the 36-1 wheel from diyautotune, and am confident that you will get it to work. One frustrating things with Megasquirt in general is it is so picky on noise. So many times did I run into dead ends to find out that the wires needed better shielding, or I wired up the VR sensor backwards, or my personal favorite I had the gap wrong on the sensor. lucky for me, it was well worth it. My buddy claims I get giddy like a school girl every time I find and learn a new feature (latest discovery was the non-linear MAT corrections and how they work with the crappy weather of Utah) On suggestion, you mentioned that you would add a bolt to keep it from losing center. I would hope you add two, 180 degrees apart to keep balanced. Also, keep a watch on the condition of the rubber in the crank pulley. I have seen one start to slip after the addition of a wheel... it was mostly the fact that it was 30 year old rubber. PS I do not know if this will help, with my set up, my potentiometers ended up at 1.25 turns for the bottom one, and .75 turn for the top.

Appreciate your hard work!

Thanks Ed! Got the brake master, few hard lines, and the speedometer cable removed. Started checking around and found a few areas where the paint did not look right. Hit the area with a wire brush to find rust had come through to the firewall through the cowl. Nothing to bad. Just makes me glad that I am doing all of this now. Ended up the day by scraping more paint off of the rear driver's side quarter and pulling the antenna out. Turns out the antenna works great too. I am sure it seems odd that I am scraping off the paint even though I have plans to blast the car. There is a few reasons to my madness. I plan on using walnut shells to blast the car. Since walnut shells remove paint slower than other blasting products, removing the excess layers of paint will allow me to strip the car faster. This should allow me to be able to get the car in primer quicker and keep it protected. Also, pre-striping the paint allows me to keep my motivation up. It is nice to see small amounts of time add up over a few days. Look forward to getting some time to work on it on Saturday, lets see if I get to those pesky side-skirts.

I am sorry if this sounds too basic, but just to be sure. Are you saying that you tested this with the drill, at the same time you cranked the car? My first thought would be loss of power when cranking, but I am also assuming that you would notice that by losing connection to the megasquirt from your laptop. So my next thought would be what changed? Does the VR have the same gap when you test it with a drill vs in the car? What type VR sensor and trigger wheel are you using? Your car should be cranking at about 200 rpm. If you feel your car is turning over slower than 150 rpm, that might indicate that you need to take a look at the battery/wiring as a weak spot. An easy way to test if it is just cranking speed, pull the spark plugs so the engine can turn over faster (don't forget to disconnect power to the coil.) Hope this helps....

Its rare to find someone that knows the 50's Fords. Most think of the Chevy's from the 50's and the Fairlanes get overlooked. I have to ask what engine/trim you had with yours? My 56 is a Club Sedan with the 292 Y-block. I has three on the tree with the overdrive that is located on the dash (it is always odd to explain to passengers what you are doing when you shift into overdrive) and has seats that I can sleep in. The car was pulled out from a barn in Idaho and dragged back to Texas for the restoration. I will find some pictures to show what shape it was when I started working on it. I have kept it mostly stock, only change was I have over stock is the rims/tires, battery is mounted in the trunk behind the spare, and I upgraded the intake to a modern 4-barrel carburetor. I had to many reliability issues with the Tea Pot carburetor. I loved this car in high school, no seatbelts, leather seats, and a car that sways like a boat when you turn.

Needed to work on the Z today so I do not stop my momentum on it. Started off by pulling the wiper motor and arms. After I had removed the wiper motor I noticed that the plate had been modified and the nut did not seem plated like the rest of the hardware around it. Got looking and found out it was a motor for a Honda passenger car from the 90's. Found out that the previous owner started a small trend with swapping out the stock wiper motor. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/17385-improving-the-wiper-motor/page-3 Afterwards I turned my attention to the front suspension. I got the passenger side cross-member, sway bar, and all other suspension parts lose and on a jack stand with no problem. Went to the drivers side, got the traction rod removed and then started loosening the first bolt on the cross-member and I get knocked in the head by a strut. Guess there is still a bit of bad karma left in this car. The insulator decided to separate from the metal at the perfect moment to nail me square in the forehead. At least I my kids did not see it happen. They would not let that one go if they did. Anyway, I feel like I ended the day with a win.

Got around to pulling the steering column and pedal box. Found the damage that a leaky master brake cylinder did years ago. Overall nothing seems too bad. Just need to take my time and blast it and see whats left. Side note, if anyone knows what year that brake booster is from please give me a heads up. I am assuming its from a Turbo model that the previous owner changed. I know that it is not a Z, but I will show it to show what type of work I do. This is my 56 Ford Fairlane, I restored this between 2000 to 2001. I did everything at home including paint, interior, and metal work. Excuse the dust and dirty rims, have not had the time to wash it this winter.

Very true. To further add to John's point the stock 280z did need some work, and it was not a 2+2 like my car is. Also keep in mind my style for comfort and feel is not like most on here (My other car is a 56 Ford Fairlane, and I love driving it and I think it is one of the most comfortable cars for joy riding around town.) I don't have track times or any numbers to back my feelings. I am just building my car to my tastes and feel. I am tall and have little room between my head an the roof of my 280. I like when I hit a pothole, with the way my car is set up, my head stays relatively still. Sadly, I do remember always hitting my head on the side of the roof back when it had stiff springs on the stock suspension. To further drive home the point. I would not recommend anyone subject themselves to the pain of doing this for the thought or hope of a faster car. The amount of hours of math, cussing, welding, cutting, grinding, and measuring took its toll on me to the point I didn't touch the car for a year because I lost my motivation. That said, Thank you for pointing out my previous post John. Hopefully I am not encouraging some to hastily go out and buy a 240sx subframe with the hope of achieving something not advertised.

I took a stock 280z for a drive shortly after I posted that. There was a huge difference between the two with regards to comfort and ease of cornering. I was very pleased with how it turned out. Before, I would have said not worth it, but I think a fresh reminder from the stock 280z was quite enlightening. As I said before, the bump steer in the s14 subframe is a tremendous benefit and defiantly makes the back end of my Z feel more stable over bumps in the road.

Side skirts are starting to turn in to a running joke, I never seem to get the motivation to just pull them. Progress for Saturday was great. Got the engine, transmission, driveshaft, and engine bay wiring removed. Then got the interior cleaned up and got the dash, headliner, and windshield removed. Looked around the engine bay for any bad signs, found on spot that looks like I will need to work on. Going to finish working on cleaning up the engine bay and work on paint prep, and of course remove the side skirts

Found out that the car did have damage to the rear passenger side quarter before the rear flares had been installed/completed. A small section had been cut out and replaced with sheet stock. This last picture is just for fun. Check out the layers! Good news, got my brother in law coming down on Saturday to help me work on the car. The plan is to pull the engine, transmission, side skirts, and front windshield. Should be a load of fun.

Thanks Brad, Wheels are on the ground. The car is not settled in the pictures and it is already a bit higher due to the lack of weight on the car at the moment. The back stayed the same height as the tires are the same diameter as the old ones. The front went up about an inch. I should have taken a picture, but the new rim/tire combo filled out the front fender nicely. As for the Maxima fuse box, I will get there. I am a little ashamed of how I had to quickly make the car road ready so that I could move it to our new home (cough... cough... wing-nuts.) If any of you are wondering, eduTechnic is my brother in-law. He has a turbo E30 that he is building up at http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=314726 Also his brother Jeff is building an amazing Mazda Miata turbo that is featured on http://www.build-threads.com/build-threads/na-mx5-nut-and-bolt-ocd-rebuild/