josh817

That sounds a lot better. I was being an idiot when I first did mine and tried to just use a small plastic mallet but of course it would bend it to the left and right and then the top would be all fargled and mushroomed out.

Same happened to me and I just used an X-acto knife to cut the little nub off however I wouldn't do that because my rear drips a drop or two of oil each day. Don't know if it was because of that or what. I was just use to the British motor because they give you a little extra on each one which you trim flush.

Alright so the posts got all fargled, don't yell at me. :[

We're just dancing around the Admins. Muahaha!

I see the avatar change and the title. I can honestly say, I'm afraid to see if its true. Edit >_< Doah! Paul! I'll just have you know: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-AvGM3qphI

Yah I'm still not 100% sure. All I know is that those cheap generic Facet pumps that sell for like $25 are not the way to go. They also have pressure surges... A good rotary pump is what we should use...

And how did it sound?

I think you will notice that with a welded diff if you let off the car will slow down dramatically through a turn. If you ever try to push the car, have fun. In my dads shop, when he wants to organize things its a pain in the ass because all the race cars have welded diffs. Some little tiny 1500 pound car takes more umph to push than my Z.

Yah it had some, but little, effects with me. I think I took out the regulator with my Facet pump, the clicky type and it started to flood even though that pump is 4psi. Put the reg. back in and I was alright. I heard that FPR ♥♥♥♥ from my dad and I believe him for the most part.

A regulator doesn't really do its job unless the gap between regulated pressure and pump pressure is substantial. For instance, If I get a pump that does 4 or 5psi and I want to regulate it to 3psi, it may not work the way you want it. A good Holley pump should put out over 10psi which you can then regulate.

Run some pipe to it from the front to blow air over it... As in like, encase the rail in the pipe. Pipe being that ducting stuff that is wrapped with foil or whatever. Cut holes in the pipe where the barb fittings an poke out from.

Yah thats what boggles my mind. I see all the money and I think other alternatives but my heart is in the L series. To each his own, this hybridz so I'm not going to go on about all L series stuff. 5k is worth it to me. Think about how much you would pay someone for that work. Maybe around the same price but this all comes in a package. Also, Kameari says $5000 but notice they don't have a buy button. If you go to other places that distribute the setup like RHDjapan they will say like $5018 or something but you have to send them a head. Who knows what their expectations are but whatever. I don't know what the Kameari USA distributor in Irvine, Cali. will quote.

You're getting intimidating, John.

Well if you want to drive on the street, right? I mean my list of things are things you can do without. You don't need to be comfortable or to be able to hear your passenger or this or that but... you need to be able to fuel your car so you can drive. You can build a motor with all the works inside but the thing that makes it track or street strip is fuel... Thats just me though. I'm sure if it wasn't my daily driver I wouldn't care. A weekend ride can be fueled with something other than pump. I think the conclusion of this thread is that if you want big numbers with an N/A setup, you need high compression which opens the door for the bigger cams and in order to make use of their powerband, you need high RPM capabilities. With that high RPM you need a head that can flow well and in order to have a head that flows well the intake and exhaust must flow well too. And finally, to power a high compression motor, you need the fuel. The fuel I would probably limit myself to only high octane fuel, no methanol just because you can't really store it since its alcohol I THINK it draws moisture... That could be a load of ♥♥♥♥ though. I see the point where we are all bound to certain aspects of driving. You always hear about "never over cam" and such because the "typical" driving is in the lower RPM and the same thing for the porting. Max numbers aren't achieved until the upper RPM's. It appears the key is that high RPM, make use of flow numbers, make use of large cam, in to really see the affects of the cam I heard somewhere around here that you need something over 11:1 compression. To keep cranks from breaking, read what Monzter was saying about balancing and then you can nitride or maybe even go with a billet crank. My dad told me he use to buy from Moldex Crankshafts for his customers and group buys help out too. Fro a Triumph TR3 crank or a Spitfire they were running about $2000. Kas Kastners books conclude that nitriding a stock Triumph crank will yield 50% better results. Of course each engine has its own harmonic issues. For Kas, they were running into the flywheel wobbling up to .5" and after 20 minutes of race RPM's the bolts would shear or back out. They tried all sorts of things but nothing helped until they drilled for more bolts. The wobbling of the flywheel was actually stretching the bolts and thus they lost their torque. Take it for what its worth.

Lol how is that welded diff working for your tires? (sarcasm) Changing the tires out every 2000 miles?

I saw in some Datsun a book a picture of the oil spray bar that had fins on it with a caption that said "The SCCA counted this as an oil cooler" or something. Get were I'm going? Why not make an aluminum fuel rail with fins? Like this but make it a fuel rail...:

Those numbers but with pump gas? I haven't heard of that ♥♥♥♥ before. Thats the only limiting factor as far as "streetable" goes for me... I could care less about fuel consumption, noise, smell, etc. I always thought about compression ratio... I see track cars in our club are like 14:1 and the British cars my dad deals with, high compression is 10:1 and then stuff breaks but I thought to myself if its only for the track then go all out! Oh and note how the gauges in the cars and stuff all follow the Kameari sort of face design so either they are using Kameari products which kind of proves the product so thats cool, or Kameari is copying a popular style of Japanese ingenuity and design. By the way, whats that big brass looking gauge in the center console?

Working on it, boo! I have a donor car I think, now I just need to source a 4.11 ring and pinion

I burned through one spot where that very slight body line is down the center of the car because I forget about it. I went crazy trying to sand down the runs in my clear. Its a tiny burn through though so no biggy. I'm not one for perfect cars. The panel feels like glass with water and it looks really good. Its just kind of a hazy/satin blue when try, as you can see.

If Kameari is a branch off of that "motherland" engineering then: http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_SPLCylinderHeadUpgrade.php If you look it says 46mm intake and 38mm exhaust valves. A P90 has 44 and 36 I think... If thats the case, I would consider saving up to purchase that head since it is a complete kit... That is after college, in that little gap where I hopefully have a good job and no wife or kids.

Customer motor. If it were mine I'd say screw the U20 and put something else in. You're looking at around 3-$4000 and its not terribly special. Just a bigger cam, lightened/balanced +-1g/polished rods, over bore domed pistons. I don't know if I posted it once before but a complete timing chain assembly with the sprockets, guides, tensioners, and chains are getting "hard" to find. The ones I did find as a set were over $1000.... Oil pump $500... Pistons $600... So yah, luckily its not my money but then again its a suck ass situation because the car has been taking up a spot in the shop for a year now while the customer makes payments slowly. I think we quoted him $4000 for a complete build and that was a mistake because I have a feeling my profit margin is going to be very small considering how many hours I'm putting in. Its not too bad though since the shop is 5 minutes from the house and because of the large gap in customer payments, I just work when I have nothing else to do and I love to do all this stuff so its fun.

I pestered you so you would finally open up and say more than 3 lines. Works like a charm. Thanks for your input Tony!

Oh yes I'm fully aware of that. I'm stuck in a lull right now. Expected the motor to be done at the machine shop today but it wasn't. He was shot peening the rods, inserting the pins into the pistons and rods, putting in new small end bushings, installing jackshaft bearings, boring and vatting the block. I checked the valve lash, everything looks good. I did a mix of the blue bottle STP additive and assembly lube and that made the cam spin a little easier but still pretty tough. I think my problem is that I'm comparing it to a Spitfire head and thats wrong because Spitfire valve springs I can compress with one hand... Oh and I'm glad I clearanced the oil pump before we bought a new one... FOR $500! I knew this motor was fairly new and something went wrong. Upon clearancing, everything was pristine!

The only thing I don't like about balancers is the rubber. It deteriorates. I know a place that will rplace all the rubber and make your balancer like new for $100 however those rpm's... No sir... Don't they have liquid balancers so there is no rubber to break apart? Will a liquid one explode too? Anyway, Monzter your car is already making a good deal of power for a 2.4L and that still kind of blows my mind so I'm not surprised that I'm sitting here going what the hell at running a pulley. How close is close for your balancing? .5 grams? Edit: I looked around the dudes site... almost like stalking but not quite as creepy. Unique! That appears to be the Kameari can muffler which they say conjoined with their header will make a "big difference". Personally, the only big difference it would make is in my wallet. That muffler is over $1000 for us US of A'ers Looks like he can't make up his mind between nice expensive carbs or nice expensive EFI... Haha What is this?

I can't see 150hp more just because they can rev 1500-2000rpm more than the states. I read the description for the Kameari headers and they advertise a huge increase in power but I never believed it thoroughly... But I guess when you mix the large primaries which step down to something smaller, proper length, proper intake, proper cam, and a nutso port job, maybe 150hp more isn't such a crazy thought. Its such a mystery to me, the only thing I can really point out is that CAS turbo dizzy style and I know the Kameari ignition setup utilizes something that looks like that. A lot of those cars look like street rods too but I have a feeling its a track only thing... Point being, is it crazy to think that they're just running a pulley and not a balancer? It makes me wonder, a lot.