josh817

Oh man, all my pictures aren't working. Don't know if the mods are hounding me or not but I'll link them again just to be sure. I left out a few this time so its not so terribly long and because I need sleep. I haven't slept yet... I blame you guys. You get my brain churning.

Hey guys I'm looking for an R200 long nose diff. with a 4.38 gear set. In fact, if you have just the ring and pinion I'll take that rather the entire diff. Thanks guys.

This is from an L4 motor, I think it said an L18 motor... Obviously can't read Japanese and the translation is sketchy. Here is from rough to finish:

That's good news!!!! I was getting worried that mine wouldn't fit and then I'd be left with disassembled brakes and a rush to find 15" wheels! Are you running the vented rotor? If the fronts fit then surely the rear 280zx calipers I have will work in the back... Perhaps you take off one of your wheels and measure one of the spacers... Haha Here is the stock slot mag: Here is the hobbled Supra: I should take it to the machine shop to have them machined properly. As of right now, Discount Tire refuses to do anything other than put a tire on and balance it. They won't bolt them up because they don't want the liability. When I went in they were like ARE YOU NUTS?! THIS WHEEL IS GOING TO WOBBLE! And I was like uh not if you balance it after you mount the tire, besides these wheels have seen 145mph so far and no crazy vibrations. :] I'm running the 14 x 8 ones. I heard from some dudes at the track that they may not be good for road racing because they flex but I think they're just whiney babies. Perhaps we should PM so I don't screw up your thread. :]

Alright Window Licker, thats enough of you. Tanning is a pretty nasty process!

Did you have to hobble out the center hole for your front ones...? The spindles on my Z were just a little too big so the wheel wouldn't go all the way on. I had to take a dremel and grind away. >_>

My mom would see all those rabbits and say... "Those would make good gloves" We never took care of the little girls rabbit across the street anymore. They breed themselves. Rabbits are superior at love. We should learn from them.

We have ventured so far off task... Did we even have a task?! Why am I asking, I'm the one who made this! Upon acknowledgment that we have no purpose, we all become the same picture posting boobs.

Lol I posted the first picture because I know Ron, John, and Paul hate when people tipe liek im talking to my gf bak n hisckool n suuuuuuuuchhhhhh. And we hate when people ask stupid question like will the R200 handle the power, because it will.

Woops I saw you had a post at the bottom of the third page. His thinking sounds logical, to me, the guy who's sitting here going what the hell? Haha. It definitely looks like you'd need it because the chamber walls are like closing onto the valve... Stupid question with obvious answer, do they even seal well? If those are 46/38 seats and its overlapping I presume you wouldn't be able to use their valves. The head of the valve would encompass the entire seat usually right? Therefore the two would hit? If not then hell that looks almost promising. Even in my case where I wouldn't plan on using 46/38 valves I'd do 45/36.5 so I guess Dave's logic would come into play a little bit there too. I was reading somewhere online when I was making my ignition table, the science aspect of ignition advance and such. Obviously a smaller chamber increases the burn rate so they made the point that smaller combustion chambers and/or compressed volume motors will require less advance etc. etc. I don't really know where I'm going with this other than the thought that a smaller chamber allows for quicker burn rates which allow for higher RPM's where the dwell time of the piston is shorter (which is why you need to advance the timing) but I guess not as much for a welded head like that. That was kind of a jumbled thought. Ignore it unless if its somewhat on the right track.

I understand making chambers smaller but giving it squish...? Is it really as straight forward as I'm thinking or is this going to be a new word to my vocabulary? How large did you go on the valves? Just stock 280 44/36 I guess? I'm hoping I can take something out a little more than that (on a P90) and my real question is, for your case, where you had the room to expand on valve size, is there anything more beneficial? As in like what if you increased the intake valve to lets just say 48mm leaving you with a 32mm exhaust (48/32), that sort of thing. Maybe that can be done so you have one giant intake valve and a smaller but still promising exhaust. I know you will be quick to say "you need more valve area for the increased capacity to let out all the exhaust you now create with a larger intake" however what if you compensated this situation by perhaps having a larger lift/duration exhaust lobe on the cam? If you're running .580"/300º intake then do a .620"/300º exhaust or something. I'm also seeing some people reserve themselves on the exhaust port to keep the velocity up, but perhaps you open that port up as much as you can to allow all that volume of gasses. Just curious! PS: This head belongs to your 200hp L24 yes? And since I see the compression being my personal limiting factor, what is yours? I'll go back to your threads and look it up if you wish to exempt the obvious.

I can't take advice from a window licker, and your post count is lower than mine. Crushed

Hey we have the same Supra wheels!

I know what you mean... Mine is scared to get into mine. She hates loud surprising noises. I guess feeling everything the car is doing, or running over, through the seat isn't so reassuring either...

I hate how everyone lends their cars out to their mechanics and friends and stuff... I hate it because I never get the opportunity. CVAR use to let the mechnics "test drive" the customers cars at their races even without a license however insurance stuff got out of hand so now thats gone... Fun laps around the track during the 1 hour lunch break is gone too. The rules for that was everyone had to have a helmet and jeans and you couldn't go faster than 80 but my dad would always shine the middle finger and blow by when he took me on rides. People can still let their buddies take their cars out but they have to have a license. The tech inspection guy took his bosses brand new Healey 3000 out and rolled it. Despite the grim news, I hope you have fun! Make me jealous!

Yah?

From the pictures I have it appears you can still open up the valves a little bit more on the P90... I'm seeing a lot of 45 intake and 36.5 exhaust. Kameari has 46 intake and 38 exhaust. Either way, its worth a shot to just ask my machine shop how far they could take it before they hit each other or water or something. I'm curious if it would be advantageous to increase only the intake and leave the exhaust alone. This way you get more of an increase (maybe 1.5mm rather than 1). I need to do more research but I think you can take an E88 and do the big valves however I don't know the big valve size... Just saying since I have a spare E88 on tap... This was my P90A chamber, doesn't look like much room to go anywhere. I WOULD say go ahead and cut into the head surface a little bit and then I would run a 91mm head gasket so I can unshroud the valves too but I think the main problem is the valve seats will start to run into each other in the chamber... That would be a question better suited for my machinist! A 1mm increase on the intake, since it is a circle, will mean a .5mm increase on each side. 2mm is 1mm on each side. I can see a 1mm gap between the exhaust and the intake, however Kameari takes the exhaust up from 36 to 38 too meaning the exhaust is 1mm larger all around too. Unless my millimeters are off, I don't think that will fit! Never know though, I'd love to find out! I'll work on it, men. Most porting is hand done unless you have a CNC which brings me to my second thought. Nothing is stopping you from eating the $5000 and having someone scan the head so if ♥♥♥♥ hits the fan, you can take another head and have them CNC port it to the same specs as far as ports go. The chambers my not be the same, but if you can spare the springs, retainers, cam, valves, etc. and put them into a CNC ported head, that would be nice to keep as a backup. I wouldn't try to sell for a profit though... Thats stooping into no mans land. I'm sure if Braap (or is it John, I'm confused ) wouldn't like it if their work was duplicated and sold under someone elses name.

Haha! I use one too, now! I did use a triple beam but ever since the existence of my 5 year old step brother, the little pieces just.... disappear. Weird. If its under $500 to balance crank, pulley, flywheel/clutch, along with pistons and rods I do myself, I'd pay for it!

No, I love my rods.... Its the rod bolts which aren't up to par. Stock bolts are a no go, especially when ARP makes some for $70 or something. Like I said though, at the time I was poor, worse than poor actually, I was in debt to my mom and I was running out of summer break. I cut a few corners and so slowly it starts to show. Nothing on the motor has broken thank god, just little persnickety things like a leak from the fitting that goes into the back of the head. Had to drain the water, take it out, do it again. The donor I'm looking at now should have a V07 crank in it so that will give me two, and since I'm thriving in left over christmas/insurance money, I will go ahead and buy some Corillo rods. I can then adjust the pin height of the pistons for the compression I would like to see. I think Ross pistons has a "custom" set of 6 for $613. I've never dealt with forged pistons so I will have to do my research. Anyway that's what my outlook is coming to be... I don't want some spectacular motor like the ones I posted, just want something better knowing the things I do now. I kind of jumped right in, you can tell by my first post (which is in the shed) that was "whats the difference between an L28 and an L28et?" Trust me, I'd mount my rods in my room if I didn't have to use them. They're purdy. :]

Point is I'm doing it over because I don't trust my work on this board and since it controls ignition the getting stranded in the middle of nowhere potential is consequently very high. Hahahaha

Did Nissan not monitor their cranks as well as their rods? I've read that their rods are pretty close from the factory but I did my thing on mine anyway... When I look at this stuff, I start to not like my setup because I was doing it under a tiny budget over my summer break so I was rushing it. I have polished and lightened rods but the rod bolts are stock, my port job sucks compared to what I've seen, I balanced my rods but I never checked the pistons, etc. I think maybe if I get another block and work on it slowly, over the next 4 years while I'm in school, I can do things the way I like and take my time. Ironically, guess what all is breaking on my car? The stuff I rushed! :] I'm learning for sure. For instance I'm buying another Megajolt board because I burned/messed this one up I think because I was trying to finish it in 1 hour. DUMB! Its $80 so thats ok I guess...

Mind if I ask how much the balancing act costs? Also didn't we discuss this sort of breakage somewhere else. I keep remembering people saying they mill off some material on the flywheel end of the crank to prevent I guess the harmonic nodes occurring there. Thats from the BHJ Drnamics PDF file if anyone is curious.

Or: http://s418.photobucket.com/albums/pp265/ryantercovich/

Ohhhhhhhhhhh! I was talking about the wrong one! I was talking about the 2 little rubber sticks that seal between the rear main cap and the block. For me, there was like 1/4" of it sticking up which prevents the oil pan seal from sitting flush, so I cut the excess off. The one that seals around the crank, use some anti seize and a little block of wood. I just happened to use the same block that I used to knock out rusty pistons from the bottom.

Look what I found guys, it'll make you cringe: So who else has joined this guy in a disastrous crank situation.