josh817

Haha thats not me. XD Thats some mug shot of a dude. I can believe the crappy aluminum thing... Forgot all about heat shields and yah I think one should definitely be used since everything being used is aluminum and its a conductor of heat... Stainless would be good. I think the ones Dad sells at his shop are stainless and some boo complained about weight and said make them out of aluminum and we were all like... that defeats the purpose...

Maybe if you're intentions are to expand a bit, you could send your plans to a company thats fabricates stuff in bulk, then you sell it for profit or something like that. Perhaps sell them the info and they sell it under their name and you get part of the profit. Not too sure how it all works I just know that after Dad snapped several axles in his enduro years he designed a new set and head Summers Brothers or some place make them. He couldn't sell them by enough quantity so he wound up just giving them the patent and now they sell them under their name. Just a thought though. I still LOVE the trumpeting look they have! I'm curious if one could get a manifold and then add a flare/horn at the end of each runner to make almost the same thing. I'm keeping a close eye on you good sir. !

Exactly what my dad told me. I think I'm just being frightened by all this stuff. I'm looking at it like a calculus problem where you have this but you need that and there are several ways to get there. As in like you COULD change your main jet but the better way is to do this. Just made that up off the top of my head... I am kind of disappointed with 40's and I think if I were to make a change it would either be ITB's or 45mm so I know I can just choke them down a bunch if needed. I'm consulting 1 Fast Z after doing a search this morning on ITB's and saw that instead of running Mikuni motorcycle carbs which still use jets, perhaps I use crotch rocket TB's. Its all a possibility. I may be stuck with carbs forever though because if I remember correctly from the turbo motor I pulled a ton of sensors. If I all of a sudden need these again then its too late since I built it for the purpose of ridding them. My general understanding on price is I don't need a manifold or a fancy computer. I thought MS did FI only systems... I'll do some research and leave this thread for CARBURETORS since thats what it was meant for. K so what I'm noticing (not going to do anything just yet) is that when I blip the throttle say 40+% it bogs down and then comes up. If I do it gently it comes right up. I think the lower band is suffering. Even when I'm in gear and rpm's get below 2k if you floor it the motor just chokes all over itself and sound like crap until you hit 3k. I haven't set my advance at all because Dad is saying 30º+ is hefty for the motors he builds but he doesn't do Datsun motors so he is most likely wrong seeing from everyone elses results. Thats my situation, just sharing not really asking as I haven't ventured into the depths of this thread just yet. Everyone posted their problems as soon as this came up so I'm sure its in here somewhere.

so if you plan on getting this going out for sale, I'm all for it. I like how you just have the runners/barrels all part of the same body instead of connecting to a manifold. I guess you would use panty hose for filters? Not a big deal.

My problem with this is I don't see how after all of that you don't have a big enough collection to say "ok let get our box of jets and pick... this one" rather than always buying more. Its just now hitting me as I know ITB's are cool and you adjust them by a click of a mouse. :/ They are rather expensive too... I think my Webers may be up for sale in a short amount of time because it all. As much as I HATE electronic stuff and trouble shooting it, I think it may be in my best interest to do it... A sad moment of realization...

Ok this kinda of frightens me to think about... For our triple Weber's to be jetted correctly, its like a good $100 worth of jets. To be able to test and find the proper jets you need a collection of jets, which is even more money. Am I wrong to assume that you need a good $250 worth of jets to just tinker? How much do you have invested for your set Zredbaron? I have a box of jets but if you find the proper ones, multiple by 3 for each carb. This sucks to get started, once you have everything I'm sure its fine. :[

If you happen to try 40 venturis tell me. I flared up the weber thread with a thought but I haven't gone about trying it (that being, no venturi on a 40 dcoe). Tell me how it is if you go completely without them... >_< Because I'm poor. I do however like your ignition setup. I oogled it in your youtube vids along with the rev limiter feature. However I don't see myself spending a thousand or two or three or however much you spent on it all. :[ EDIT: Oh god I just heard your sound clips... Whats your idle (JohnC noted 1500), and what is that popping noise when you rev it... Not the typical popping when you let off the throttle but when you're on the throttle. I'm only running a .495" cam but can't get lower than 1000RPM idle at the moment... Yours sounds like sex though. :] I have some more reading in this thread before I say much more so I don't look like a butthole. Lets not let anyone tell us our 3.1L motors aren't rev happy!

^Gonzaga?!

Very. Checking them out tomorrow when I finish up Bondo treatment for the Bimmer. Thats another project just not funded by me. :]

Hey now, don't just finish it up. I say keep chugging until money can't buy you anymore. Then again I could be taking all of these courses in vein when my mind somehow changes to like a liberal arts university and I'm stuck drawing pictures of trees... Not saying thats a bad job, just saying theres no use for Calc III... XD

Is it scary to already be done with Physics II and Calc III courses in 12th grade... >_> Ok so I have a little too much time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpCa0hC47QU ^ My motor. As the description says, lets not forget that there aren't any air filters. Just hit me a couple minutes ago...

Thank you very much! When you rev it up and let it drop back down you hear that tick, thats what I'm talking about. See its hard to tell in videos because it sounds like a diesel and to me diesels sound like metal clunking around, but when you rev it, the disguise goes away. I'll get a video of mine although mine won't go past 6k RPM since we haven't set the advance yet... Nor have we tuned the carbs... I get this annoying blip when you floor it. It'll bog down and then pick right up making for a jerky ride so you have to gradually have to let in the throttle. I think its just the lower RPM band. I haven't looked at the tach when going on my runs but it seems if you pull above a certain RPM and then floor it you're fine. Otherwise it bogs town for a split second and you're off. I'm satisfied to an astonishing point. It goes like no other even with things not being setup just yet. However... I'm telling myself no more tirades on the streets since I haven't seen 20mpg in the past 3 fill ups. 5.5 gallons gets me 80 miles with rough driving and the gauge shows empty but its enough to make it to the station. If I build some RPM hungry motor in the far future, I'm going to approach the valve train with your balancing method Dragonfly. :] Then again if the economy keeps going to hell I may never see the light until I'm 35. Also might I note on my list of things to do before I die: Check for vacuum leaks. At idle my RPM's are varying by about 200-300 so setting it at 750rpm idle isn't any good. If it drops below that the motor dies and I've notice for some odd reason as I pull into the drive way the RPM's ALWAYS drop in a particular section of the driveway. Now we do have a downward slope coming towards our house but on every other downward slope I've encountered this odd RPM drop doesn't happen. In simple terms I have it set at 1300 idle. Start it up on a cool morning (70º) and it'll stay at 800rpm until warmed up. Coming through the drive way it goes from 1300 to 1000-ish. At a stop light with the 1300 idle it will sway between 1000-1400. Its not the tach either because you can hear it go up and down. As long as this is happening I will not see the nice quiet 750 idle, ever.

Alright, I'm not sure if anyone visits this thread anymore BUT I do have a slight question. Since I ran a turbo motor before with hydraulic lifters, I am unaware how the valve train is suppose to sound with solids+big cam+hot springs. There is a distinct clicking noise which I'm not thinking much of but my dad and his friends say that its kinda noisy. I set the clearances to the cam card specs (which just so happened to be the same as the book 10 and 12 thousandths). I'm going to go back and check everything, maybe even tighten it up to 6 and 8 or 8 and 10 cold. Everything is getting lubed up front. Last thing I need is cam failure... :/ Anyways, if anyone has maybe a video of a their stock motor or maybe a mild cam motor, looking into the engine bay so you can avoid exhaust noise that would be cool. I will admit, they do make a bit of a ticking noise but like I said I never maid anything of it. I want to be safe though. Oh and by the way. I'm looking into building a big bore small stroke L motor next either when this thing blows up (lets hope not) or possibly for someone else. I'm practicing on other motors right now and gathering many resources for building because I'm sure people wouldn't feel confident with me. XD Thoughts are just like any other thread topic about small stroke. Get the 2L crank (69mm) and do a 89mm or maybe 90mm bore. If I build another motor I think it would be a race motor. Go biggest cam, prepped rods, flywheel, stroke and bore setup, everything. I'm getting kind of curious now. Getting some tires next paycheck. 200 miles on the motor. :] 500 I'll change oil. I do weekly inspections because I'm paranoid something will go wrong with my baby. :0

Shows just how much I know about turbochargers... >_>

Its been a while. Well everything is going well. :] Starts right up, pulls strongly, sings like a champ. Everything electrical has been figured out. Now comes the putting on miles to break in the motor. I noticed today when I bring it up to 6k RPM it sounds like there is a rev limiter or something on it. Once you hit 6-6.5k it starts making loud backfire noises. I didn't hold it long enough to see if it would go any further. I'm thinking maybe its because the timing isn't set up correctly, carbs aren't tuned. I doubt that HEI module has some sort of built in thing to keep it from firing passed a certain point. It almost makes sense since the module controls the firing of the coil, and most rev limiters retard coil firing so the motor miss fires and stops it from over revving. Then again it was only $40 and never said anything about rev limiter so I don't think its that... Now comes more fun stuff which I can do without any special super tools. Body work and tires. :0! First up: tires Second up: strip interior and paint truck bed liner Third up: paint car...

Yah I saw that JAW setup but didn't know what to think. I may indeed use it and just put the clock back in as a filler. Look nice and old too. :] Playing with advance shouldn't be bad for the motor. Only reason why its bad for yours is because your running forced induction correct? If you have detonation then yes you'll blow a head gasket. However thats far better than throwing a rod. Thus the reason why you shouldn't use metal head gaskets on high boost motors. It won't give way if you have detonation. In turn, I'm not running high compression either. 10:1 I don't believe is extreme enough for stuff to happen. Exhaust put on tomorrow. Lets hope for the best. @_@

They're only carburetors. You will never have them perfect as each day is a new running condition. Most people just tune by how it feels and plug checks, I'll just use a narrowband and my butt. :] Most of the dudes in the race club are running narrowbands too, like I said, usable at WOT. Ducking, didn't know about that. The car is lowered slightly I think and its an MSA Type III kit.

Well for more directed flow I can attempt some sheet metal work but aerodynamics as in like car getting light when at speed, I don't care for really to do any extensive work.

I didn't see any bung on the exhaust with the turbo motor. I don't think it was running any O2 sensor at all. My plans are indeed to buy a narrowband as a filler gauge and to help tune. Yes it will be a light show, however they do work WOT and thats what I car about. If we can make smooth transitions, clean running, good response, and then adjust WOT I think we'll be fine. However I have a feeling that the venturis in these aren't sufficient. We have discussed this in the Weber thread. I'm not really up for buying proper ones right now... Just get it running nicely and not worry about power until later. EDIT: Wow... One of those DOAH! moments... Out of curiosity I took a piece of paper and stuck it up to my PULLER TYPE fan and hey guess what! >_< It sucked the piece of paper in from the motor side, its a pusher! >:[ So since its a curved blade I took it off, flipped it around, changed the polarity and now its the right way. :] NOW LETS TRY! >_< One thing I'm learning from all this stuff is pay attention to detail and don't assume anything. It takes twice as long to figure it all out completely, but at least you do it right and don't mis-diagnose.

Maybe you can change out the springs like on Nissan pumps. I look into the how to Mod the L-engine book and its talked about it. I think I'm running very rich and maybe too much advance which leads us to timing. I'm running really hot, when I tell Dad that a lot of people are dyno'ing their motors at a safe peak HP with 30º+ of advance he says he can't believe it because a Triumph motor would burn a piston with that much. Tomorrow I'll have time to retard the timing a little and test out my Water Wetter but I'm still running pretty hot (about 220º-230º). I'm going to flip **** if that radiator isn't sufficient enough because Dad kept saying no to Aluminum and then sends my radiator off to a shop without telling me and hands me a bill for $190... No one is going to buy this thing for $190... XD Anyways, what do you think I should aim for, advance wise. Can't tune carbs yet but the exhaust shop is a good 5-10 minutes away and I want to at least make it there. Get back pressure, and then tune. I have a good feeling we're running lean because these are 40mm carbs that ran only slightly rich on a 2.4L. However, I don't know what to expect temperature difference wise because I have never played with carbs before. I would think that if it was running STUPID lean, it would be detonating and crap like that, just sound really nasty and horrible. But its not. I'd really hate to NOT be able to run decent advance because I'll over heat. I'm not sure what he set it at and I don't have a timing light so I'll just retard it, adjust idle, retard a little more. Tell me what you guys think!

Yah I understand it all except clearances so thats what I will look into. I honestly think though my oil problem wasn't really a problem. Had oil pressure when driving, had higher pressure at idle today than yesterday.

The gauge reads down low at idle but when you drive around at 3k rpm its doing between the middle and the right side of the gauge, and its a o-90 gauge so thats what? 60psi-ish. Doesn't make sense to have 60psi at idle in my mind. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzRLApUSrXU ^ View of gauges in 3rd going 30mph. It was hot. :[ I'll check the cam lobes and such. I think most after market cams do internally oiled.

Took the car for a spin and the gauge read well. Sits where it should and slightly above 0 at idle so thats good. Its a rocket and I haven't even hounded on it yet. Only went about 3 miles, brought it up to 5k and let the engine brake. Only problem is that the motor ran stupid hot. If I have to get an aluminum radiator I'm going to strangle Dad since he kept saying just recore this old radiator. >_< I spent $190 to do that... >_< No one will buy a radiator that price. So hopefully its just a new motor, too much advance, and lean. Get everything figured out and maybe it will drop back down... Thats TOO hot for me, especially for 3 miles and nice driving... I noticed when we came to a stop sign my idle was at 1500RPM but when we turned the motor off and turned it back on, it was at 1000-1100RPM as usual. We won't tune the carbs until I get back pressure on the exhaust. Right now it dies down and comes up if you blip the throttle so we'll see. Vid 1, not even half throttle :]: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BXs1svOc5s

Well **** thats REALLY good news. 0-90psi gauge and it sits just above 0psi so that should be about 6psi. You can see the gauge in the video so judge from there. Uploading to Youtube right now. Dad already taught me that lesson on gauges and accuracy... Hounded me because I was saying just get this fuel gauge, its cheap. Gauges aren't accurate on the ends, more accurate/most accurate in the center. 0-200psi is too big of a range. 0-100 is more like it I would think. Maybe 125 because if you go over 100psi... God save you and your passenger from oil leak inside. x_x Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHAyvZ5CR5k