josh817

Hmmmm You gave me an idea. It looks like that setup is able to use those stock type filters. The ones that are like a big oval ring of filter material sandwiched between two plates. I've been pondering on how or if I want a filter system for my project. This looks like it could be a solution if you aren't too worried about the stand off injectors not sealing *perfectly* in the plate. Unless of course you use an oring or something to solve that. I like! With the fuel rail/injector hold down plate supports, I didn't know how to handle making a filter with all this crap coming through on the backside. Which reminds me; how do the airhorns seal on the back plate of the filter assembly? Do you use another oring? This was precisely what I meant by "all this crap coming through the backside". I'm trying to think of a solution to keeping the airbox (for lack of better words) sealed, without having make the airhorns a permanent fixture to the rear plate. Lastly, I think I asked you this before, but did you find an optimum height of your stand off injectors; distance from the face of the airhorn to the tip of the injector?

Vista. I'm getting some thorough help elsewhere. According to the logs, the guy said, that one of the drivers of a program I use was creating some memory problems. The program was used to make virtual drives and what not so it makes sense that it would mess up memory. I uninstalled it and so far so good, however, the BSOD isn't that frequent so time will tell. I have yet to have a full night that I can set aside the computer and do a memtest scan. I heard it takes a few hours.

Well, this is the second time my computer has blue screened on me. The first time happened while I was sleeping, weirdly. I run a program to thoroughly delete financial files; I had this program (Eraser) running overnight. I wake up to a blue screen. Fast forward a week or two later. Just now I was watching youtube videos and browsing this site, all of a sudden it blue screens. Automatically reboots. Now from the last time it did this, I tried searching around to see if the info it gives me can help me figure out whats up and if it is going to be a persistent problem. I haven't had a bluescreen since Windows '98 so I'm worried something is going on. If any of you know what to do or how to read this info then please chime in: Problem signature: Problem Event Name: BlueScreen OS Version: 6.0.6002.2.2.0.768.3 Locale ID: 1033 Additional information about the problem: BCCode: 3b BCP1: 00000000C0000005 BCP2: FFFFF960000DFAF0 BCP3: FFFFFA600D0B5E10 BCP4: 0000000000000000 OS Version: 6_0_6002 Service Pack: 2_0 Product: 768_1 Files that help describe the problem: C:\Windows\Minidump\Mini092312-01.dmp C:\Users\Joshua\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-83273-0.sysdata.xml C:\Users\Joshua\AppData\Local\Temp\WER5022.tmp.version.txt Thanks. Edit: I don't think that information will be really helpful to anyone. I have pulled all the log info/memory dump and can PM it to someone who is able to read and understand it.

I'd rather mill a piston so you don't lose cross-sectional area on the rod. Just my uneducated mentality on the matter, rods crack and can break, the underside of pistons usually don't get ripped out. I've never had either so again... I wouldn't REALLY know. All the rods that broke in the british motors I have seen my dad tear down have been a few inches below the small end of the rod anyway. Never seen a broken small end.

I think this: Which means you could mill the underside of the RB26 piston to fit the wider L24 rod. Although, for what its worth, all the Datsun pistons and rods I have put together, even with the KA24 piston on an L24 rod, it still had side to side play. Like a lot. Probably 1/8" on either side of the rod when installed on the piston.

There must be a way around it. A little bit of morally incorrect actions may have to take place but if you list the sell price truthfully, pay the taxes on it, and the car isn't stolen, I have a hard time feeling bad for Uncle Sam or anyone else. My problem was difficulty getting a hold of someone to sign the title over, yours is with registration. I'm not sure how slide around that other than maybe registering it in Oklahoma or surrounding states and transferring it over. Don't know if that's some sort of heinous crime. Otherwise, I don't see how people manage to restore cars that have been off the road for like 30 years. I keep my Z registered as antique so I don't have to get inspected, same price as normal registration, and I only register every 5 years. She can sleep all she wants now. Actually, when I pulled insurance off that car (since it is in pieces) we got a letter from the state I believe saying hey your car isn't insured. That's when we said it was being restored/inoperable. Maybe you pull insurance from the car, wait for the letter, tell them whats up so this way when you go to get it registered the fees "miraculously" disappear. I'm just babbling now.

I wonder how that didn't happen to me. I had the same situation pretty much. Original owner in Fort Worth owned my truck in the 90's, then my dads friend bought it, then my dad bought it, then I bought it, but the title was still in the original owners name. Last time the truck was registered was '96. I never ran into registration backfees. I eventually got a hold of the first owner and got a signature. Be careful though. You have 30 days from sale to turn in a transfer title form otherwise fees start on that too.

If my pickup could tow a trailer, I'd tow it up to you! Planning on road tripping in January. Finally fixed all my exhaust leaks, tranny leaks, fixing to add sound deadner, carpet, radio. Everything will be practically new except for the terrible paint and body. Doesn't mean it will be able to haul my fat ass up some Tennessee mountains though. But for real, when it gets closer if you need me to bring stuff up that can fit in the back of the truck, that's fine with me. I usually go through the Rockaway Township/Caldwell area. We're going to need a good spare tire I suspect. I feel bad for you, not being able to bring your Z. At least it gets a garage to stay in. Oh yah and notice this depressing moment: I was so excited to see if it would fit. Have to cut my fuel rail supports shorter and tap them again. I'm going to write your name, right beside the throttle linkage when I'm done.

Don't think they do well on salty roads either. I will let you know. I was suppose to snab the A/C off of Nick's 280 but I wasn't prepared for such a project just yet. I'm still not. One step at a time.

Oh I think I know your dad Rod. I recently bought a KA tranny and a dead 5 speed from him, yah?

I have a garage queen in Keller and drive my 521 truck in Arlington. Work takes me out towards Granbury and up 35 to Sanger a lot. Looks like an old Chevy Luv or Toyota pickup however the only real distinction that it's a Datsun is that nasty baby blue "datsun blue" whatever you want to call it lol

Take this guy: Loop it to this guy: You don't have to plug the manifold or anything unless you have water going into/out of it from some other source. I assume manifold heat came from the thermostat thing I showed in picture 1.

Yup, vacuum leak.

Poor guy! Glad you weren't talking about me! Today, I made a tool to remove retainer locks. Unfortunately, when it slips out under load, it flies at your face. That's ok though, it gets the job done if you have cat-like reflexes.

Chains aren't that expensive anyway /shrug

Only 21, I'm in the green zone. How did they almost fool you on a timing chain?

Oh, what school.... Not that I'm you know, going to find her or... anything... Nevermind forget it.

You can try getting one of those cheap hand pumps and a thin rubber hose. Insert through the filter or the oil pressure sensor hole. Pump oil towards the pump. Mine took quiet a bit of oil before it started dribbling out the hole so I can only assume it was going into the pump. I had the same problem. Damn electric gauges are slugs. I remember that once we saw the needle move the slightest bit we just called it ready and fired her up. First second was worrying but it responded after that. If you remove the pump, don't pack it with engine grease. My father use to do until just this year on a race motor, the Accusump was acting funking. You'd discharge the tank, and it wouldn't read on the gauge and then you would get like 100PSI at higher RPM but idle way low, yet before it warmed up it was nice and high. All sorts of weird stuff. Took the bypass valve out and it was gunked up with grease. I guess obvious, however all the times before the grease melted away. Not suppose to use packing grease if you're running an accusump anyway for that very reason.

I had the same thing with mine. P90 head/F54 block with 40mm Webers. Right at the same RPM too! For the three years that I daily drove it, I could never get it past maybe 6500RPM because of the problem. One day I decided to see if the problem persisted if instead I didn't floor it but just slowly went through the RPM's in first. Got up to 7000 and then it chucked a rocker. Leads me to believe maybe the cam, valves, rockers, etc. were having stability issues and maybe a floating valve? I was running a "Stage 3" MSA cam with proper springs (.490" lift 290º duration I think). Even with stock springs, I don't think stability issues would occur unless if they were REALLY used for a long time. Stock springs should get you past 6500... I remember JohnC I think it was talking about the ITS Z's saying that one race weekend you may be able to bring it up to 8000RPM, the next maybe only 7500 without valve float, progressively getting worse as they're used. Another thing I would note. My Z had a persistent belt stretch. What would happen is one day, I never really noted the weather so maybe it was dependent on humidity or heat, I would be driving along and then all of a sudden at a random RPM, it would fall flat and then sputter. Pretty much exactly like a rev limiter, it would not go above that RPM. I eventually widdled it down to a stretching belt because one day I peaked under the hood and I could turn my alternator with my bare hands. I would tighten up the belt, problem went away. Maybe a few months later it would come back. And when I say random RPM's, it happened at 3500RPM once, just pulling away from a stop light. I don't remember it happening at night time so I can't comment on whether the lights were dimming or anything like that. The belt never squeaked when it did it either so... maybe it was just a quiet belt. All I know is that when I tightened it up, the problem went away. Anyway, I know exactly what you are talking about. I always thought it was either my belt slipping, valve float, or not enough air. I guess ignition too. I was running an electronic dizzy from a '77 Z I think. The one that doesn't have the black box, and you use it with an HEI module. Stock '83 turbo coil.

Learned it doesn't fit. Then went back inside because I was sweating after 5 minutes. Sat on couch for the rest of the day.

What dash unit thing is that. That's nifty. By the way I am in Keller/Arlington. There is a guy named Rod, up in Dallas that I picked up transmissions from recently.

Don't want to start a new thread to place these videos so I will just put them in here. Enjoy The yellow Z is in a lot of drag videos. I forget who built it but when you see it you can't miss it.

How far did you space your injectors from the air horns? I'm doing the same thing but when I eyeball the spacing to look similar to yours I can help but think that a bit of the atomized fuel may not make its way into the air horn. Then again... there is quite a suction at fuel throttle so maybe not.

Don't forget to remove the collar from the tranny side of the driveshaft, if you use a Z driveshaft. He mentions it here: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission4.htm And you can see why you can't use the collar/dust cover: Replace ujoints while you're at it. I didn't have the money to do the ujoints in my truck and from the beginning I had a vibration from 22-23mph. Walloped out my rear seal, oil slowly exited my tranny which conveniently hit critical levels when I was 1:30 hours from home. Now I have a bearing that chatters from 60-65mph. All for some crusty ujoints! Might want to look into any wiring that may throw you off. For instance a kickdown sensor, a sensor preventing you from starting the car in gear, maybe one that adjusts timing or fuel according to what gear you are in, etc. My truck had stuff similar to that, but it had a manual tranny.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhMTGlLQx4Q Another fan boy NFS type-ish game. Street racing silliness. Whatever floats peoples boats I guess. Some cool features though with the challenges and all.