josh817

Stainless is cool but its the same design as the typical headers you see. #6 and #1 aren't anywhere close to the same length. Looks pretty cool!

Yup that's how this guy was, mind you it was the other persons insurance thats USAA, not mine. I had the print offs from MSA for a hood, airdam, headlight bucket, he added a little more for paint and installation. Those three things came out to a $2100 check. Unfortunately, since I painted my Z, now the hood and airdam look ten times better than the rest of the car... lol The Triumph TR3 that I was driving when I got rear ended, same insurance, actually the same adjuster came out. That's a little different because that was a show car with $50,000 in invoices. Granted half that was paint and body and everything mechanical on the car still works after the accident. My father gave him the big book of part numbers and prices to base his estimate off of. Only problem is that he would mark down like $400 for a new fender, 1 hour of labor for paint and fitment, etc. The fenders though aren't just purchased and fit perfectly, they require some work to get on... They were real nice and said to just give the adjuster a call to come back out if we need more money or if we find more damage when we get the crunched trunk open. They also took care of my medical which wasn't much. Just a check up, an xray of my neck, some pills that didn't really do much. Came out to $300 and within a week of me faxing my reciepts in, they called me up saying they will give me $600. The fall back if we don't get enough is to ask Hagerty to do something since the car is insured on there. Don't know if Hagerty would give us money and then take USAA to court or what.

http://dookies.jp/concept/concept05.htm#idcon01

As you wish

I do corner working there most of the time. I think I remember seeing you're blue Z if it was within the past two years. There is a silver 240Z that sounds really nice too. Unfortunately for him he went off down at turn 8 I think it is, running right along 377. It was raining down on that end of the track and he slid off the track, across the pond, almost made it to dry land. He was able to hook up the tow rope in the knee high water, they pulled him out, he drove back to pits. If you ever spot a blue Datsun pickup out there thats me.

Sounds like its getting taken care of. I'd say time to get Hagerty but I don't know what sort of consequences there are if you make a claim with them to get the money you need. I know when I tried getting my Z covered, my mother called, the car is in her name, they asked to see where it's being stored and obviously picture of it. Sent them pictures, told them the car is currently being restored and when it's done it isn't going to see more than 2000 miles a year. They said they couldn't insure it because it's not "show car quality"..... I JUST said it's being restored. I don't know if there is any place that offers antique or classic insurance for someone my age (22) that is a decent price. My only encounters with insurance has been with USAA. Someone backed into the front of my Z and crushed the hood, headlight bucket, airdam. Adjuster came out and said their database only went back to 1980 or something so he didn't know what anything was worth. I printed off MSA prices; $500 new hood, $200 for a headlight bucket, $300 or $350 or the airdam, you know where thats going. Now I'm dealing with someone who rear ended me driving while I was driving a Triumph TR3 show car $$$. It's turning out like yours, damage doesn't look too terrible but then you look closer, door jams are crunched. They awarded $8000 but that was rather modest however they were/are more than willing to send the adjuster back out to cut another check if needed.

For those who are wanting to know, from the email: "The wires are optional and in our experience generally not needed." Meaning, you don't need to jumper D1/D2 I believe.

I go down there to work at TWS (Texas World Speedway) for the vintage race club. There are two Z cars that run in there. We have an event the last weekend in Feb, they don't charge anything for you to come and watch, walk around the paddock and see all the cars. Hang around Saturday night and there are kegs and some sort of food.

I ordered a P90 head with an MSA "stage 3" cam kit installed on it. Everything worked/works well, although I did have my doubts on the cam since the car never sounded like it, compared to other Z's I've seen with the same cam. Not to mention I got the entire thing for $300 and a cam kit alone (cam, springs, retainers, etc) from MSA is $700. I would have to put a dial to the cam and measure the duration and lift again. Acted like a stage 3 was described. 3.1L motor with triple webers, floor it and you could definitely feel it pick up its feet at 3500. I shy away now due to the price.

I will try, I'm sure he gets blown away with these sorts of questions.

Hi guys, this is my first time messing with fuel injection. I got a killer deal on a prebuilt MS2 box with MegaView 2 That I will probably be selling (shameless plug). I want to confirm the board mods so I don't fry something. From what I have read: -JP1 jumper across 2-3 -J1 jumper across 1-2 -jumper across XG1-XG2 -run a wire from JS10 to the center hole of Q16 Here is the part where I need confirmation -run a wire from the bottom of D1 to the right side of D2 What needs to be done, I think (http://www.megamanual.com/357/): So on the board I see these small holes with traces to the components. I am assuming I can use these instead of soldering to the component solder pad, correct? They are very tiny holes, I would have to use a pretty small wire so hopefully no major current is going through it. Other than that, I'm going to use shielded wire for the VR sensor, the SAW, and the PIP lines from EDIS. You guys don't use shielded wire for injectors do you? My last worry is with the EDIS. Now, I was running Megajolt before, and I found that my VR sensor wires had to be flipped. I hooked blue with blue, grey with grey, apparently that was backwards. The schematics for the connectors have some variation in them. I think I have everything down as far as VR, PIP, and SAW are concerned, I worry that the firing order marked on the coil may be incorrect, or the coil wires A,B,C may have swapped colors like the sensors. Not sure how I would diagnose and correct that problem if it were to arise. When I had Megajolt, I was getting a good RPM signal on the computer when running on the dizzy but I never got spark. I could have messed up the board (which is why I bought prebuilt now), the wires for the coils may be funky like the VR sensor, the firing order on the coil may be incorrect, I'm not sure I never looked into it. Thanks for the help guys! Hopefully some surefire answers will arise. I was prowling the MS forums and due to the nature of MS it's difficult to find someone with an exact answer since we are all doing something different.

While we are on the topic, anyone know the thread size of the water outlet at the back of the head?

Boy, we're getting deeper into the weird zone with each post.

He doesn't waddle to the cabinet, he doesn't pull his pants up to walk to the cabinet, sounds to me like Tony is one of those dudes who not only drops his pants at the urinal, he takes them off completely. Or maybe it's too unreasonable for me to assume that you wear pants at all.

He who pulls pants up to walk to cabinet, has done harm to his undies. Might as well not even get TP at that point.

A very dramatic moment indeed! Have to do that awkward waddle over to the TP stash. You used all the TP sitting in the front so you're hopelessly bent over, trowsers dropped, blindly reaching into the pits of the cabinet just praying you will feel that tissue. When you don't feel it, you have to lean over and peer in, just to confirm how terrible your day has now become. The rest of the day, you're left walking around. Walk long enough, or if you're hiking, you start getting that really dire need to itch but you know if you do you're going to ruin your boxers so you purposely hold back. The itch becomes so intense, it feels like a bug is biting you, it becomes reality. You start shuffling around, trying to scratch one cheek with the other. As soon as you find your backup TP source, you use half a roll scrubbing your rump down not only releiving your itch but achieving a level of cleanliness never achieved before. The festering fecal matter has been defeated yet again, and your day has become 10 times better than it was before you even went to the bathroom. Mission accomplished, you are a true man; not only did you endure mental torture from an itch but you also proved to yourself and to the surrounding females, by quick walking, awkward stretching, jumping around, shuffling, that you indeed have superior physical stamina. You are a true warrior.

Website went down in 2008. Use this link: http://web.archive.org/web/20080721214115/http://www.datsport.com/Racer_Brown_Menu.html Tony supplies good info that he would otherwise not secrete on other terms. He makes you work for it.

I remember being quoted from our machine shop about $1200-$1500 if he scanned the head/wrote the program (you keep it) and another $800 or so to run heads with the program. If he keeps the program for his own use, rather than giving it to you, then he only charges you the cost to run the heads, I suppose only if he feels there is money to made from future heads. Don't you know though, that even if you paid the extra to own it yourself, he will probably keep a copy for himself anyway. Worth it though.

Yes sir, keep them to their corresponding rods. Mark them on your own if you have to in case if there are weird mix-matches of numbers. I remember building a motor that was previously opened, didn't pay attention to the fact that whoever had been in there before me marked the rods differently, and had them line bored (that's the only way you can get away with mix matching that I know of). I put her back together, 1 with 1, 2 with 2. Everything went together swell, she was turning over fine. Ran for a few miles with good oil pressure, super strong, and then it just locked up. It had spun a rod bearing to the point where one shell OVERLAPPED the other shell and just binded the entire thing and when I say bind I mean like.... Pulling away from a stop light and all of a sudden the wheel lock, doing 30MPH in 4th gear. Since I had no idea what numbers were with what when I took her apart, I didn't know how to fix the situation other than to get new rods. So anyway long story short, the way it came out is the way it should go back in. And if I remember correctly, the notches Lazeum speaks of will be both on the same side, as in, there is a notch on the rod, and a notch on the cap, when you put the two together, have them on the same side, not opposite sides. I'm actually worrying about my truck motor right now, with which side I had installed those oil squirters on the rods! I always forget or take it for granted that my machine shop pressed the pistons on so the front of the piston faces the proper direction on the rod! Makes me nervous now. I'm not sure what the symptoms of a backwards rod would be. According to Haynes: And if you were wondering what side is the "right" side of the motor like I was, this is from the "Modify Your Nissan/Datsun" book: It also made a good point to replace the rod bolts if you're using stock rods/bolts. ARP is pretty cheap insurance if you like revving her up.

Don't forget to make sure the rods are facing the correct way. I nearly forgot to check, just assuming the machine shop pressed the pistons onto the rods in the proper direction. I think in one of those How To books it says the oil squirter on the side of the rod is suppose to be on the..... right side I think? Depends on which direction your viewing but just double check to be sure. Apparently the rods are offset ever so slightly to give a thrust on the crank I believe.

Yup I forgot all about that. I won't say it, but I will.... I thought it was intuitively obvious when the bearing were all stacked, in cellophane tape. Good thing you double checked your work before you glued her shut and stabbed her in!

If its one of the middle mains, the saddle shaped bearing is a thrust washer as well. In you picture it doesn't look like a thrust washer though. You may want to pull that cap and see if its centered in the cap. The rubber sticks with the metal insert in the center, that go on either side of the rear main cap, I tapped them in lightly with a mallet after squirting some sealant in the hole. I don't know if they come a little longer than they need to be but I got mine almost all the way down. Maybe 1/4" was left sticking up so I trimmed it, works fine. Rear main seal, you mean the big donut that seals around the crank? That should be flush with the cap surface on the outside. Use a blunt tipped object and a small mallet to tap it in further. If I remember correctly, the cap itself should have a, for lack of better words, seat for the seal (like a little step). Basically, you should be able to tap it in until it goes no further, so that's exactly what I would do. Same for the front main seal in the front cover.

Cool, thank you. I remember seeing that feature on here. I never have a DVD to write on though. Now that 2010 or 2011 office, whatever it is, is out, the 2007 version I have only runs like $35 for students anyway if I remember correctly.

Or my PSU is going out. I'm underpowered. Graphics card needs 12v @ 38A and I only have two 12v rails connected together giving me a total of 12v @ 33A. And that's just for the graphics card. However according to the logs, the dude was saying "syst.sys" driver (I forget the name, I'm away from the computer right now) was a known driver that throws BSOD sometimes, and it belonged to Daemon Tools which was the virtual drive program I was using. I will have to wait to see the results of memtest to see further. Dead PSU's can throw false alerts too so I need to address the lack of power before I tinker further. When I bought the computer it never came with a Windows system CD like older computers use to have. I'm not sure how that works, if I get a new HD, as far as getting my Windows back. I have the CD for microsoft office, and again, I don't know if it will tell me "sorry that key is already in use" if I ever have to reformat or get a new HD.