josh817

I know Nissan and others were using fuel injection whether it be mechanical or electronic in the early 70's. I'm looking for FIA documentation of these systems on Z's before 1973 for a local race group. Links or photos to information are welcome. Thank you. This is what I scavenged from here, several years ago. Think they may have come from Alan? Not sure

Tony there was a simpler way to go about this. British >>> commuter use. The world doesn't have enough oil reserves for that type of travel. Nor does it have enough spark plugs, distributor caps, or gasket materials to maintain a single British vehicle 10,000 miles/year. Major cities would be heavily hazed by wiring harness smoke, no one would be able to see. Tony, it's just not realistic. Please.

I was pissy about it before, not anymore. I still disagree with the method (I will find other ways to achieve) but my point was if you want to venture into that market just know what your build is for and your needs.

Boy I thought I was getting shafted at $190/year for $10,000 full + road side assistance and I think 1000 miles (maybe it was 500) with Hagerty. They played us around so much just to get it though. Car is in my mothers name, she said I would be the driver, they didn't like that. So she said she will be the driver; doesn't really matter to us since the car is in storage. They came back saying "they car isn't showcase quality" even though we marked restoration on the paperwork, Over a year later, come last summer, we tried again but this time using our regular insurance All State as a middle man to get to Hagerty (All State said they're working with them or something for classic cars...) Again, no to me, ok so my mother will be the only authorized person. "We will get back to you when we reach a conclusion". Week goes by Two weeks Three weeks In the mean time I am paying for regular insurance on my Z so I can get it registered, that's why I went insurance shopping to begin with otherwise I would have left it uninsured. We called them up and said we know what you're doing. You're putting it off hoping we won't return. Tell us what the conclusion is and tell us WHY if it's a no so we can work to resolve the issues you have with what we are asking for. "We'll get back to you", this time they actually did. They said they thought I would still drive it since I have a '71 truck on our All State policy. "He drives an old car for his daily". We had to reassure them that the car is not on the road and its registered as an antique so I can't drive it daily like that. I was sure that the $190 was a reflection of them being worried that I was going to joy ride the car as an unauthorized driver but with what you guys are saying, it seems pretty fair.

Yup, there are lots of videos of that green car. I feel like you can do just as well getting a local place (within the our shores) to do that package or just a crank. My email exchanges with places in Japan have sometimes consisted of interrogation of what my plans are and then them telling me what they will sell me, rather than letting me buy anything I want. Not always nice and easy window shopping as we are use to. Nice parts though.

But I'm not going to pay twice as much for that **** hehehehe

Created this, have my problem resolved. Mods delete please? Basically what happened was I installed some windows updates, did a reboot. upon the "Updating 3 of 3" after it restarted, it would reboot again before it reached the log on screen. I don't have a Windows boot CD. If you don't either, I strongly suggest using System Restore. If you don't have it enabled and didn't have a restore point, you are nearly screwed. I tried starting in Safe Mode, kept going back to that update completion screen and rebooting. I then tried "Start last known stable version" which went to "reverting back to last known stable version" screen, and then kept rebooting, this time trying to revert back to a previous version but never completing it. I then started in Safe Mode CMD. This seemed to have allowed it to revert back, or at least stop it from restarting. Since all you have is the Command Prompt, type "rstrui.exe", this starts up System Restore. Give it a moment, pick a date to restore back to, and then do it. Saved my ass big time. Another option I read but didn't want to mess with was getting into the registry and turning off the reboot process. I don't like messing with registry though. You would do that by getting into the Command Prompt, type "regedit" and you'd have to look up the rest as to where to go. The reason why this happened to me in the first place was because I hadn't updated in a few weeks. Went to update (33 updates) and only 17 were succesful for whatever reason. I rebooted, everything worked fine, still had 16 updates though. Sometimes when I update I get an error code 80070005 which basically means something is preventing the updater from proceeding, whether its a permissions access issue or firewall. I use Comodo as my AV and Firewall and noticed that Trustedinstaller.exe and another .exe kept being blocked when I tried to update. Once I temporarily turned off my firewall, the updates started going through. I installed them, rebooted, and that's when the endless boot loop occurred. I can only assume that it was because I had installed 17 updates of the overall 33 and maybe they were suppose to be done together/in a certain order. Once I fixed this boot loop problem, I tried updating all 33 again, they all were successful, and I'm running alright now. If I were you, I would use System Restore if you don't have it enabled. It has saved me several times when I was tinkering; this particular time had the potential to screw me good. If you don't have a Windows boot disk, there are other tools you can get for free that you can put on a disk or a USB as a boot drive in these cases. I always hear about Windows boot disks but of all the computers I have owned, I have never received one with it.

That makes sense then, I was getting confused! I don't think I would do stand off injection on a turbo app. for that very reason. I would suck it up and pay to have someone weld bungs onto the runners. The guy who cut up 3 KA heads and bolted them together to get a twin cam head for a Z block, last I saw he was using one of the Hilborn manifolds for a turbo app. I don't know how far he got.

I like that they explain why certain factors are in their formulas. Before you had posted those references many moons ago, I would visit different websites that had calculators, all gave me different answers, none would tell me what they were doing. I've downloaded all the GrapeApe articles, they're all great. Currently reading through head cooling threads on this forum before I even think about drilling out a good head.

Manifold, 280z linkage, Supra injectors, megasquirt, TPS from some type of car, Palnet rail, any Z valve cover. I think the only thing that I would have to worry about sourcing are injectors and TPS, everything else "shouldn't" be things that wear out and need replacing. I don't see the problem, unless I wanted to make them and sell them, but I don't. Sorry if that makes you pissy, Tony. As I said, I use it to make me feel better about the length I choose. I don't know if the info they present is more for V8's or general for other motors. The equation they discuss already has some variables like subtracting 20-30º of duration from your intake duration, to allow time for the pressure wave to travel. They say 30º works well for high RPM solid cam drag motors. Just for shits and giggles I used 30º in my calculation. Vel of sound: 1300 ft/s Intake duration (pulled an Iske cam spec from internet): 304º Runner diameter at throttle plates: 1-13/16" or 1.8125" You can see the tuned length for reflective values changes quite a bit. I will go with 3rd or 4th reflection to say the least. And about the injector hold downs, I know they're huge. If you look at Madkaws valve cover air box, and imagine the injectors seating on the outside of the cover, so they're spraying into the cover, that's what I am wanting... Mayb if the price is right, he will make one for me? Who knows! Quick sketch, only difference is that I will want the top of the valve cover to be completely smooth, no raised letters, so the injectors can seat nicely. Sorry I haven't been updating. Not much has happened. I haven't touched the car... Too many expenditures this first half of the year, I need to back off. My original plans in the entire car project was to make negotiations with myself as to how I want things done, so I can get it on the road. Changed my mind, being so busy closer to graduation I might as well wait for when I have a real income supporting me, and do the job the way I want it the FIRST time. I will still work on the manifold but I realistically won't have it on the car and running for a while. I will put it on my old motor, I just don't want to trash my rods or crank. The rest of the car will be completely gone through before I wire it. Roll bar, fuel cell, seats, belts, accusump, oil cooler, etc. I don't want to go back and find that I have to change everything up because I didn't put it in at the right time.

It was a joke on previous topics concerning r200's back in the day.... You weren't suppose to take insult to it, kind sir. The entire narration was impregnated with tragic humor and you took a single sentence personally. Stop that. You have a nice car, you know it, we know it.

I wouldn't be surprised if he used a rubber ring from a driveshaft. I've seen them on Alfa driveshafts and I see them a lot on older Formula Fords. The two other metal pieces can be made on a lathe. Looks like the tri-bolt flanges were welded onto their hubs, and tri-bolt flanges are very driveshaft-esque....

If someone hasn't already: No one said it has to be pretty

I'd love to put the entire LD28 in my truck if I didn't have to chop and if the injector pumps were able to be remanned. Or maybe it was the SD's that you were out of luck if/when an injector pump goes out.... I paid $350 for mine back in 2007. I get shop rate for my machine work since my father is a frequent business customer.... $400 to hot bath block, bore block, polish crank, pressure check head, shot peen rods, press on pistons.

So Jessica and I go way back; best friends to the end. We've always liked each other a little but never acted on it. So one day I grew a pair and manned up, I asked her on a date. She said sure, I was so excited. I went to her house to go pick her up and her dad answered the door. Oh ****, toughen up! "Hello sir, I'm here to pick up your daughter". I went to shake his hand but remembered I only had hoofs, that sucks. "I don't know how my daughter likes a hairy ani---..." "Go ahead... I deer you" I told him "Heh, a pleb like you wouldn't know anything about what beautiful women want. Where's Jessica, we're leaving!" Jessica came walking out in a gorgeous purple top with a short skirt. Yowza! As I start kicking my feet in the dirt. We went out to the movies, standard date stuff. "Don't worry QT3.141592653689323, I'll get this since this is a DATE" just to remind her whats up, you know. Damn girl cost me $20 and change, plus all the quarters I had in my ash tray for snacks. Hope you like your $5 Sour Patch Kids, ****, I'm thinking to myself. After the movie, we went out to a nice place for dinner; one of those places where you have to be all dressed up. The door bitch welcomed my woman and I in. He took my jacket and hung it up on a wall trophy which just so happened to be my second cousin. We've always wondered where he went that night, found him! The butler put his hand out and coughed. "Sorry dude, I don't have a BUCK to spare hehehehehehehehehehehehehehe" as I stared at him. That's right, keep walking. I seat my Honey like a gentleman and we whip a conversation about the degeneracy of current society and how we can stop it. The waiter comes over and rudely interrupts our conversation... "Whad'ya say to me mate?! I'll bash your 'ead in if you do it again, I swear on me mum! Move your cheeky **** along. Get going before I grab you in the gizzard!" Jessica was thoroughly impressed with my lavish lifestyle and how I handled the situation. She started batting her face with her napkin; a sure sign things were getting HOT in here, just what I wanted. She dropped the napkin, I quickly leaped up to respond. A lifetime of skidish behavior really helped me react quickly but not quick enough. We both reached down and the inevitable happened. Her huge rack made intimate contact with my huge rack. She looked right me, she was feeling the vibes. I exclaimed "Wait! I'm tangled in your shirt, this won't work, give me a second". I start moving my head around in a figure 8 motion thinking I am alleviating the problem but I was actually unraveling her shirt. Her eyes bug out as I continue. When I reach the end I look up, to see only two black strips covering her top. Zzzzzzzing! My, why did you do that? Tears start building in her eyes, "I can't believe I fell for you!" she yelled as she ran off crying. She had her friend come pick her up in a Datsun. "Hey bro, how much power is that thing putting down" I asked, trying to show him up. He said 1000HP... Heh, everybody knows an R200 can't take that type of abuse, I didn't tell him that though. As soon as he left with Jessica and her bouncing bits I reminessed on what just took place. It's really a shame she thought could handle me. I can't blame her though, very few can resist a mighty steer such as myself....

Should've done a cannon ball, Macho Man Tony! So I'm 11 years old, hanging out at my Dad's shop one summers day. All day he's been talking about some mean burgers at Fudruckers and how they have such a delicious 1 pound burger. Father decides that we're all going out for burgers. We're waiting in line for the lady to take our orders and Dad asks me what type of burger I'm going to get. "I'M GOING TO GET THE ONE POUNDER!" ......... everyone turns around and looks at me, even the cashier. Dad says "Are you sure? There's a display window showing the sizes of the burgers over there". My eyes bulge out when I see a burger the size of my head. "Never mind, I'll do a quarter pounder". The cashier begins to change my order and Dad stops her. "No no no.... the boy asked for a one pounder, give him a one pounder" and he smiles at me. Oh geez now I see whats happening. "This is going to be a lesson on how to think before you speak". So they make your order and they have a bar area with all the fixings. We start putting stuff on my burger and Dad starts talking about how good the nacho sauce is. I slather that big beast with nacho sauce, of course forgetting that this is a lesson. Everybody has now finished their food while I'm half way through looking woozy. "We can't go home until you finish, Josh. We're going to have to get some dessert while we wait on you". Nacho cheese sauce starts getting hard after a while. One thing about him is that he will keep feeding you until you say you're full, but if you waste food, you're going to get your ass kicked. Now days a one pounder is just the right amount of burger for me; Dad broke me. I also can't ever do a take home box. People are sitting there watching me shovel the remains into my mouth trying to hold it down, reminding me I can get a take home box. NOPE, CAN'T, THAT'S JUST NOT RIGHT --------------- Fast forward to this past May. I had spent all this time studying for a fluid dynamics final that I was pretty sure I failed. I went to campus early to study before the test and I had my phone off. Dad left a voicemail saying good luck and if I want we can go get unlimited wings at Hooters or unlimited tacos at Don Pablo. I forgot to turn my phone on so I never got the message. I'm all discouraged from the test, I pick up $12 worth of dollar menu tacos and burritos from Taco Bell to drown my sorrows away. Dad comes home and asks if I wanted wings or tacos. I didn't have the heart to tell him that I just gorged myself and wasn't hungry. Taco's, because duhhh I just had chicken last night; awesome logic. Him and I both get unlimited tacos and we both eat 9 of their huge tacos because you know at $9 for a meal, anything over $1 per taco is just too much; you have to get your monies worth. Total damage: 6 taco's and 4 burritos from Taco Bell plus 9 tacos from Don Pablo. You know whats coming. ------------ Now I get to watch this while Father coerces my step brother into these traps. We're checking for spark and fuel on a car. Step brother wanted to help so Dad lets him watch for spark from the coil wire to the block while we crank it. "Don't touch the wire or you'll get zapped" says Dad. Step brother being a smart ass 9 year old "No it won't, you're dumb". Dad: Me: Dad looks at me, looks back at Willie "Oh yahhhh I forgot, you know everything, your father doesn't know what he's talking about. Well, why don't you hang onto that side.... Josh, crank her over! Lets see if I'm wrong!" Hey man, I'm not going to be part of your system. It's like a game of chess, living with this guy. We need more childhood lesson stories

So I'm not dumb enough to set the chain brake on and leave it on but... I am dumb enough to think that there was more to the operation of the chain brake than what there really is. Basically I read something like "inertia operated chain brake" I'm going hmmmmmm such a small package, I wonder how they do it? How do they know when the saw is kicking back? Fast forward to watching a youtube saw review and seeing some guy doing the kick back motion and his wrist is what pushes the handle. Wow, I feel dumb. Part 2: Go back to last summer. I wanted to make an ammunition key chain. Pull out a round, didn't want to drill it in case if there were a spark, so I wiggle the bullet out of the casing and pour the powder out. I try to use a punch and a hammer to pop the primer but it isn't going, so I call my father up. "Hey Dad, I have an empty casing in the vise here and I'm trying to pop the primer. How big of a whack does it usually take?" "Joshua.... what type of dumb ass are you? Does that even sound like a good idea, popping a primer inside the shop?" Part 3: Father as a child, fishing in the swamps with my grandfather. He casts out his line and it lands right on an alligators mouth. "What the hell did you do that for you damn fool?" accompanied with a smack upside the head. "I couldn't have aimed that well if I tried. I didn't mean to" Part 4: Sitting with my grandfather and my girlfriend at my sisters wedding. Grandfather decides now would be a good time to woo my girlfriend into thinking he's one awesome dude; telling her stories about how he "and the boys" would hop in the car after work and drive to a particular area in Pennsylvania for the girls. How his big baby blue eyes coaxed many a women into his quarters. Then he questioned her decision on dating me "Why are you dating this clown anyway? What do you see in him?". Mind you, just before this, we were up getting him food and he was sitting at the table by himself. The photographer asks him if he's going to get any food. "Don't worry, I have people". Afterwards he points to the other table where my father and two aunts are conversing. "You see them over there, that's my family, they're plotting my demise" So as you can see, there's a good two generations of fools and dumb asses. It builds character, Tony!

Mother has this nice riding lawn mower that we never use anymore since I'm the one who cuts the grass and I like the push mower... Doesn't run because it has been sitting. Should be an easy clean up, sell it. She said she wouldn't mind rolling that money into a NICE chain saw. I bet she paid a good $900+ for that mower and she thinks its worthless. She was going to give it away just to not deal with it, just like her 1998 Honda Civic that I got $3000 for!

Unless the snout that the collar rides on is different diameter, the 240sx collar should be the same as the turbo/2+2 which means you use it for the bigger of the two clutche surfaces correct? If running the smaller clutch surface then run the 71B or any of the other collars aside from 240sx/turbo/2+2. Just have to clarify that because I have uh.......... 5 delinquent trannies out in my shed with their collars tossed in a bucket and I didn't keep track. So many trannies, such little time.

I think Hilborn or Kinsler makes bungs or some sort of part specifically to convert the manifolds. I don't want to outsource expensive work and start welding up my manifold though. I feel like the direction I took is just as easy or easier, certainly cheaper, than paying someone to weld bungs. May not look as pretty. Even if I had used bungs, I would still need to address the airbox issue. The mounting of the injectors was really a days worth of work on a boring weekend. Also allows me to use the injector holes for vacuum stuff or air bleeds to sync the runners. I'm glad to hear your idea is light! Care to link or post pictures of it, inside and out? If you cut yours to shorten, then I might as well look into what TimZ was saying too! Just have to be thoughtful of space and weight constraints. I will have to feel the weight of my carb setup compared to the new setup. I bet they're about the same... For what its worth, everything on the new setup is aluminum.

Yes it is. Good thinking. I didn't know fiberglass resin had problems with fuel contamination. I was even considering making an acrylic box until I read that acrylic doesn't like sustained periods with gas.

Mods, I'm not sure if this thread belongs here or in the projects section. Help me out, please. Long story short, Don Potters widow was selling stuff off on ebay. I was talked into EFI and losing the triple carbs. Mommabear Potter had a Hilborn manifold that I suppose his intention was to chop and use the two ports on either end for an L4. Had 4 ram tubes, 4 butterflies, I didn't take the metering stuff since I didn't want mechanical fuel injection. Bought a Palnet fuel rail I think it is? Supra 440CC injectors, MS2 PCB3.57, MS relay board, the MS2 auction also came with an MegaView 2 which I don't think I will be using. I also bought a ported E88 head from a user on here. First thing I noticed was the ports on the head are 39mm and the ports on the manifold were like... 32mm or something. Sent the manifold to the machine shop to get bored which revealed a lot of casting imperfections. Nothing serious, just ugly. Had shortened guides as well. Seems like whoever did it knew what they were doing, or did a good job to make it look so! Alright so, first thing first. I had to consider my options on how to get injectors onto the manifold. Really didn't want to dish out a lot of money for welding, and I wanted to maintain a manifold that would be useful for mechanical or electronic injection if I were to sell it. Welding bungs onto it was out. Decided the easiest way to do things was to bolt the injectors to the manifold. I had heard of stand off injection before, helps atomize fuel, keeps the intake cool, that sort blah blah. Easy? Performance? Ok I'll bite. After tormenting TonyD about EFI, what keeps the injectors in place, what seals them, will I get fuel reversion and burn my Z to the ground, I pulled some scrap aluminum and made an injector hold down plate. Mind you, my father doesn't have super precise tools. Would have helped. I used this diagram and my eyeballs to get the holes lined up. Got it pretty close but 2 or 3 injectors don't sit nicely in the chamfer. There is a little bit of a gap which is annoying because when I set the distance from the plate to the fuel rail, I try to get all the injectors to fit so they can loosely rotate. I would get the middle ones fit nicely but then the end ones would be a little tight. I'm not sure how much it matters but.... I have a different idea. Pressure testing. I questioned how loosely rotating o-rings could seal but they did. Ramped up the air pressure to 70PSI and sprayed some suds around the injectors. No leaks so far. I used aluminum bar stock, drilled and tapped holes in each end. Threaded a stud into the side that goes to the fuel rail so it could screw into the existing hold down holes. I don't like this, I will probably change to threaded rod so I can adjust the hold down. Right now I adjust it with washers, and that's lousy yah? Now I had to mount the injectors to the manifold. Cue more threaded rod please. I trimmed down the hold down plate so there wasn't so much weight... Another concern of mine is that in other setups, they have this small individual hold downs, I have a big plate, and this big plate is going to sit close to the ram tubes. I believe David Vizard's book on MG engines(?) said you have to clear an area around the horn of 1.5 X the throat diameter which means I need to TRY to keep stuff about 2.5-3" away from the face of the horn unless I want to introduce restrictions. More aluminum bar stock was used. to support each end. The ram tube bells are so big I had a hard time finding a place to bolt to. I ran the bar stock to the manifold flange. Chamfered a hole on the backside for a tapered headed screw (whatever you call it, the head is conical) to run threw and screw into the bar stock, the screw head fits nicely into the chamfer. Again, I don't like this bar stock, I can't adjust it; it being the height of the injectors. I'd like to use more threaded rod however I am out of ideas on how to keep it protruding from the sealing surface of the manifold. Now comes the linkage. This manifold is usually cable operated. I hate cable linkages with a passion, it just seems dangerous knowing I can't pry the pedal up with my toe. Each his own though. I had one of those 280 manifolds with all the casting between the runners. Figured nobody wanted that type so I... chopped it. Sorry. Cut the linkage supports off of it and used a stock hard linkage. Rough placement of the supports. So my Z buddy, a member on here who I won't mention because he'd embarrassed by his welds for some reason, was kind enough to weld the supports onto the manifold. That is the only thing I will weld to the manifold unless if I absolutely can't find a way to mount a TPS. I or a future buyer, can still use it as mechanical injection with the luxury of a solid linkage. And yes, my motor is being supported with clothes hanger lines because I have limited resources at my mothers house. Actually... looking at it now, I may mount the TPS to the end of the linkage rather than the throttle shaft. Make a plate to bolt to the linkage support. Interesting. The holes for the mechnical injectors will either be linked together and sent to a MAP sensor. I don't know if it is proper to have them hooked to a PVC system AND to a MAP sensor, using a T connection. Will it read correctly? What if I have the manifold vacuum hooked to PVC, brake booster, and MAP? Still read correctly? I'll have to find out. Also take this time to notice that the casting covers up the portion above 2-3-4-5 exhaust ports. I can only run a recirculation line from above #6 unless I want to cut the manifold more. Alright so I guess you can pretty much run it how it is. I fear that at speed, the wind will blow the fuel around, ingesting dust, I have a lot of fears. This is where I'm getting stuck. I made a fiberglass airbox using a cardboard box wrapped with packaging tape and waxed lightly with..... yah bearing grease. Used a coffee can to get my air cleaner snout. For some reason I thought 4" diameter would be good, come to find out a lot of air cleaners are 3". The point was to have an air cleaner setup that would allow me to use an easily found air cleaner. After seeing one of PMC's 4 cylinder manifolds with top mount injection, I thought maybe I could use a stock oval air cleaner and squeeze it between two plates however to get all 6 air horns, you need a really long oval, or run two small ovals. Either way, you have to order it and its expensive compared to the generic types you see at the local store. I hadn't quite thought out my fiberglass box though... I wanted the fuel rail and injectors on the outside of the box so I didn't have to run fuel lines and wires into it. I needed a way of mounting said box to the manifold. I need a way of mounting the injectors to the box. I thought I could use the current fuel rail supports, the magic of threaded rod, you can clamp things all down its length! Perhaps sandwich the hold down plate to the fuel rail with the side of the box in between. Problem: the box had two half dollar size bubbles on the mounting surfaces. The box is ugly. The box is strong and light but flexible. I made it a 5 sided box without the top, so I could make a top and screw it to the box; be able to remove the top to look in at the injectors or adjust... stuff. The lid would be sealed with like a bubble molded rubber AKA door seal molding. Bigger problem, I made the box way too big. This is the problem with having the car away from the place you actually work. With fuel rail will hit the brake master. Doesn't look like there will be any room for the filter to fit. TonyD said consider flipping it and hiding the filter in the cowl area. Get that air pressure build up at speed maybe! Still to big, still very ugly. I haven't scrapped the idea yet; reluctant considering I spent $60 on fiberglass... I'm a cheap ass. After perusing through the show off your engine bay thread, I saw someone on here has a valve cover as an airbox. I am seriously considering that idea however I worry about the weight hanging from the studs. If I did that, I either have the ribs/letters of the valve cover ground off, or flatten that whole area. Weld up the oil fill, weld on a 3" tube on the end for a generic filter. Use the top surface of the valve cover as my injector hold down. This way my injectors, fuel lines, wires, can be outside of the contained area. Use the stock hardware to screw it onto a back plate, with maybe even a standard cork gasket. Only complaints would be the weight and the fact that I would have to disconnect the injectors and fuel lines to open the box up. Then again, why would I be going in and out of there anyway? An L4 valve cover is about an inch too short for what I need and an L6 cover seems absurdly long... If I'm trying to cut down on weight, and I'm going to have welding done, it would be tempting to cut an L4 cover in half and extend it so I can have it fit my needs. Seems overly complicated then. I've been dragging my feet on the car now. I don't know which way I should commit for the air cleaner. Next on the to do list is to rewire her. I've already drawn up my schematic, bought my toggle switches. Even that simple task is turning into bigger dreams. While the interior is gutted, why not paint it? Before I paint, do I want a roll bar? Should I cut a hole for the fuel cell in the back? I should probably buy a fuel cell so I can fit it correctly.... Wait, I wanted to rewire the car though... Do I want to spend the time to install this setup on my existing motor which has been sitting for 2 years? Should I go ahead and rebuild the motor with all the mods I've learned? WAIT!!! I JUST WANTED FUEL INJECTION!! I bought the remaining hardware to complete the manifold. Yes, the two new tubes are different lengths than the rest. I can cut them down, they're slip fit tubes. I am going to have to in order for it to fit. I am going to have to try to get the two new butterflies to fit better. The four old butterflies seal well against the walls of the runner when closed. The new ones have a big slit between them and the wall. I tried tapping them while the screws were loose to get them to seat but they're not moving enough. I had originally planned on using the mechanical injector holes for air bleeds so I could sync the runners like you would a carb. I'm not sure if I care too much about the idle to worry. If it runs like crap then maybe... Could very well be a casting flaw, having those two center runners shifted. Can always drill a small hole in the 4 other butterflies and hope your idle isn't way high. TonyD provided this source in a thread long ago and far away, I think for its cooling systems article, can't remember: http://mysite.verizon.net/vzezeqah/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/inductionsystems.pdf Parent site: http://mysite.verizon.net/vzezeqah/id1.html >>>>>>> induction systems I don't really expect to tune the intake successfully but I will use the logic to make myself feel better about the length I decide. I don't know what cam I will run in the future motor, so I can't really begin to get a length. I figure around 10-12" of runner. The manifold itself is about 6-6.5", from the face of the port to the valve I'll guess 3-5", which means I could probably cut down the ram tubes as far as I can with them still being able to 'slip fit' into the manifold. Much more compact! Keep that weight closer to the stud so it doesn't see so much torque pulling on it as well.

I suspecting overheating too. The first saw, I tried lining all my wood up, ready to cut all at once. The second saw I didn't bother, let it rest 5-10 minutes while I move logs and reset. Didn't like that either. Once the second saw stalled out the first time, I quit for the day, went back out in the morning. Made 5 cuts and it was toast. I'll just move on, although......... there is the Poulon Pro 18" bar 42cc motor with orange plastic instead of green $169. Lowe's shows it as commercial/heavy use for tree felling and logging. I want to shy away from Poulon but I can't ignore that commercial/heavy use. We too have a small family run place that's a Stihl dealer. I may go speak to them. My only hesitation is returning a dead saw if it were to happen again. I know the big stores usually won't give me hell. Lowe's offers a Remington saw that's pretty big/heavy duty 51cc 18" bar. Mixed reviews, a lot of very happy people and then one or two people that have the dreaded scored piston. Do you guys think I'd overwork a higher end smaller saw, knowing my needs? Stihl, Echo, Husqvarna that's what I can find in stores around here. Basically at a crossroads. Good reliable brand but I can only afford a smaller saw that they would deem "occasional use", or cheaper unknown brand that is deemed "heavy duty/commercial". Granted, after I'm done getting all these trees down, there should only be 2-3 dead trees a year. This 10 tree situation is due to neglect.

Trying to clean up my mothers yard this summer. We have about 10 dead oak trees; maybe 20 feet tall, biggest is about 16" at the stump. I bought a Poulan 14" bar chain saw from Lowes. I cut down one whole tree, cut its branches, cut the logs, until it started bogging down while cutting. Stalled out, repeat this 3 times, seized completely (checked the chain and pull string, both were good). Used warranty to get another one, got half a tree logged, seized. I used their oil per their instructions, proper bar oil, maintained fluids so it didn't run dry. I figured I was asking too much out of the saw considering of the 200+ reviews, people either loved it or complained about it being hard to start. No one mentioned anything about it becoming seized. Worried for "cheaper" brands now... Have to be able to decipher reviews between those are not mechanically knowledgeable/don't read the instructions, those who rarely use the saw or use it for limbs, and those who know what they are doing/do heavy cutting. On the hunt for a saw that can take the heat. Not wanting to spend more than $250... Looking at an Echo 310 however it comes with a 14" bar, can take up to a 16" bar. I don't feel like I need a bigger bar however, if the bar reflects how big of a tree it can cut then I worry I may push it too hard even with a good brand. Stihl has an MS170 or 171, or 180, not sure what the differences are but that's a 16" bar. Says "occasional use" though which sets of my alarms. Need wise intuition. Thanks kind sirs

Something like that OP, if you get the threaded water pump intake and you plug the heater core side like TImZ says. If don't have a threaded water pump intake, and you just use a rubber cap on the heater core intake, you may be left with a smaller intake and the radiator intake. Radiator intake goes to the bottom of the rad obviously and the smaller intake goes to under the thermostat. You could plug that too though, if you wanted to. To illustrate what I mean by that: If you don't have the threaded version as shown in the ebay auction, you can plug the Red and keep the blue. Or plug the blue as well as the red.