Samurai7one

Was wondering if ITM is still in business? Anyone have any info? Parts are drying up😓

I know it's a long shot finding a deal on a P90 head but it's worth a shot. Anyone got one?

Thanks for the reply guys. Any suggestions on where to get custom pistons, that won't break the bank?

Guys, I'm pondering a turbo build. I have many parts to pick from but not sure which route to go. Here's a short list of the parts I have on hand: -My current engine: L28 triple Mukuni, flat top pistons, P90 head (shaved .080") -N42 block/N47 head, stock internals, clifford 4BBL intake, Holley Carb -N42 block/N42 Head, completely stock setup. -I have a stock turbo manifold and was gonna acquire a Pro Tunerz Intake & a MS3 setup. I will use stock internals w/ probably some Ross or JE dished forged turbo pistons. N42 block is a given, but which head? P90 would be a no brainer, but its been shaved. I can always use a 2mm thick high quality head gasket (e.g. Kameari) to get the compression back down some. But maybe I should just use the N42 Head. IDK Alternatively, I can run the N42/N47 all stock including pistons with the turbo setup and just see how much boost it can take lol. Thoughts?

Recently I saw the Nissan concept 370Z with the Q50 VR30DDTT 400HP motor mated to a 370Z 6 speed manual. Has anyone put this engine in an S30? If not, who will be first?

15x9 0 offset SPD line Zuka wheels. I am pretty sure I have the same. Mine are bronze. Your pic shows gunmetal. I bought mine from JPNgarage but I think they are closed down now. I did see some on ebay though. Supposedly, these where made by Atara Racing as mentioned here: https://dailydatsun.wordpress.com/2016/03/31/watanabes-panasports-and-other-8-spoke-rims/ Also, I have T3 control arms pulled in as much as possible in the rear, to make them fit.

Just do an RB25DET swap, it will cost as much or more to build a L-series stroker and put high performance parts on it. With the RB, you will get reliable performance and you can always turn up the boost. Plus, you keep the Nissan family straight six

Mind blown!

I found this rubber elbow fits nicely. I thought I was being smart, sticking the PCV valve in there but, lol, I realized its not protecting the top vent from backfire. so I got to re think my set up, but the black rubber elbow works as a simple solution for making a connection for the lower fitting. I found it in the "help" section at AUTO-ZONE, It's DORMAN part number 46035. Its actually the second one I have had. The first one developed surface cracks after 3 years. That's to be expected I guess, next next to that header. No big deal, just picked up another one $10. I'll do a full write up on my final setup when I get it finished. Hope this helps someone.

Wow😃

I want to swap in some H4 lights and add LED bulbs. I see many types and cooling device configurations of led bulbs available, has anyone tried them? What mods were necessary? Results? IF YOU CAN PLEASE, mention the brand /type bulb you used. Thanks in advance!

I'm pretty sure those air-dams are supposed to bolt to the outside of the buckets, not the inside. Makes a difference. Maybe you can do a search on here, pretty sure it's been discussed.

Rack installed. Feels good to me but my perspective is skewed because I have always had steering issues. So, I don't know what normal feels like, but this feels good to me. -No more feeling that the steering wheel is trying to jerk out of my hand everytime I hit any slight bump. -No more play - zero NOW, let me add this, I found an isssue while installing the new rack. Turns out where the steering shaft coupler slips onto the steering-gear box input-shaft, the bolt was not properly torqued. I put the new rack in and felt steering, it felt exactly the same as before. I thought "great all this for nothing"! So I started inspecting the components and found what appeared too be slop in the steering gear input shaft (moved side to side and up and down a bit). Further examination revealed that the coupler was loose. I thought I tightened the bolt well when I put It together but not enough to compress the coupler tight around the input shaft. I put some torque on the bolt, and probably got another full turn out of it. Maybe that was the problem all along?!?! Anyway that was the problem now and tightening the coupler bolt solved it. I did find a dry/loose inner tie rod on the old rack so, I don't regret changing it all out. SO, if you have these same symptoms I had; -Loose steering with what feels like a wear spot while going straight ahead at higher speeds -Feeling like the steering wheel is trying to break free form your grip when you hit bumps Then climb under your car and push/pull on the coupler that slips over the input shaft and be sure there is no play. If there is try to re-torque that bolt first.