Samurai7one

Recently I saw the Nissan concept 370Z with the Q50 VR30DDTT 400HP motor mated to a 370Z 6 speed manual. Has anyone put this engine in an S30? If not, who will be first?

15x9 0 offset SPD line Zuka wheels. I am pretty sure I have the same. Mine are bronze. Your pic shows gunmetal. I bought mine from JPNgarage but I think they are closed down now. I did see some on ebay though. Supposedly, these where made by Atara Racing as mentioned here: https://dailydatsun.wordpress.com/2016/03/31/watanabes-panasports-and-other-8-spoke-rims/ Also, I have T3 control arms pulled in as much as possible in the rear, to make them fit.

Just do an RB25DET swap, it will cost as much or more to build a L-series stroker and put high performance parts on it. With the RB, you will get reliable performance and you can always turn up the boost. Plus, you keep the Nissan family straight six

Mind blown!

I found this rubber elbow fits nicely. I thought I was being smart, sticking the PCV valve in there but, lol, I realized its not protecting the top vent from backfire. so I got to re think my set up, but the black rubber elbow works as a simple solution for making a connection for the lower fitting. I found it in the "help" section at AUTO-ZONE, It's DORMAN part number 46035. Its actually the second one I have had. The first one developed surface cracks after 3 years. That's to be expected I guess, next next to that header. No big deal, just picked up another one $10. I'll do a full write up on my final setup when I get it finished. Hope this helps someone.

Wow😃

I want to swap in some H4 lights and add LED bulbs. I see many types and cooling device configurations of led bulbs available, has anyone tried them? What mods were necessary? Results? IF YOU CAN PLEASE, mention the brand /type bulb you used. Thanks in advance!

I'm pretty sure those air-dams are supposed to bolt to the outside of the buckets, not the inside. Makes a difference. Maybe you can do a search on here, pretty sure it's been discussed.

Rack installed. Feels good to me but my perspective is skewed because I have always had steering issues. So, I don't know what normal feels like, but this feels good to me. -No more feeling that the steering wheel is trying to jerk out of my hand everytime I hit any slight bump. -No more play - zero NOW, let me add this, I found an isssue while installing the new rack. Turns out where the steering shaft coupler slips onto the steering-gear box input-shaft, the bolt was not properly torqued. I put the new rack in and felt steering, it felt exactly the same as before. I thought "great all this for nothing"! So I started inspecting the components and found what appeared too be slop in the steering gear input shaft (moved side to side and up and down a bit). Further examination revealed that the coupler was loose. I thought I tightened the bolt well when I put It together but not enough to compress the coupler tight around the input shaft. I put some torque on the bolt, and probably got another full turn out of it. Maybe that was the problem all along?!?! Anyway that was the problem now and tightening the coupler bolt solved it. I did find a dry/loose inner tie rod on the old rack so, I don't regret changing it all out. SO, if you have these same symptoms I had; -Loose steering with what feels like a wear spot while going straight ahead at higher speeds -Feeling like the steering wheel is trying to break free form your grip when you hit bumps Then climb under your car and push/pull on the coupler that slips over the input shaft and be sure there is no play. If there is try to re-torque that bolt first.

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Forgive the delay, I'm finally feeling better after a bit of food poisoning. Here's what I have to report: -ratio is the same as my 77 280z rack -stroke is 1/16" more in both directions -stock rack was 3 turns lock to lock / new rack was about 3.15 turns (probably due to slightly longer stroke) -splines appear to be the same on input shaft. -gear housing is cast aluminum on new rack vs cast iron on stock rack (checked with magnet) -new rack weighs less (4.5kg vs 5.5) -the rack gear itself on the old unit is flat on the side opposite of the gear teeth. It's round on the new unit. -it seems like a decent product, of course I haven't installed it yet to get the "feel". I prefer the construction of the old rack, but that could be said about any new parts being produced these days. The manufacturer of this rack probably makes the racks in most of our other modern cars that we daily drive. I guess I can say that it's not a "reproduction of the original" but a "modern replacement" for better or for worse. -oddly, it comes with one new bushing for the end that's opposite if the gear box. I thought maybe the O.D. of the tube was different, but it's the same. I just don't understand why this is, maybe the other side fell off? It's not in the box.???? Who knows. I'll just reuse my old urethane bushings anyway. They are only about 6 months old. Maybe the reason will become clear upon installation. -more to follow got to upload pics.

I ordered Moog ES2110R & ES2109R tie rod ends, one goes on, the other will not. Got pissed off, and I was sweating my balls off, so I threw it all back in the box and took a break to chill out. Will take a better look at it all again soon.

Both of those characteristics were present in my old rack. Got the new rack, it's very very different. Will get more info soon. I got to go to storage to get my old rack to do a comparison. What I see so far, I think it has two right hand thread inner tie rods instead of a left and right thread on opposite ends.