gravityflyer

So a couple of folks have kindly PM'd me some info and thought I'd share it on this thread in case anyone searched for something similar in the future. - http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42024-bolts/ - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98751-suspension-bolts-inventory - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/tabid/1543/Default.aspx And a couple of files either sent to me or contained within the above links (note that these were created by others and I cannot take credit for them): http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/31-240z-hardware/

Greetings all! I'm in desperate need of two rubber engine mounts (Nissan part #11224-N3300). It is part #9 in the diagram on Car Parts Manual: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/EngineMounting/tabid/1629/Default.aspx I actually need it by Saturday and I'm of course willing to pay all shipping costs related to overnighting the part to me. Kindly let me know if you can send it tomorrow. I'll PayPal funds immediately. Thank you! J.

Yes please! Will send you a message now!

Hi all, I'm getting ready to convert my '77 280z to carb and looking for an Arizona Z Car 4-barrel intake manifold. Any leads greatly appreciated! J.

Hi all, This weekend I'll be dropping the original L28 back into my 77 280z. I'll need bolts for (1) engine mounts, (2) tranny to engine, and (3) tranny crossmember to body. (On Thursday I'm going to the facility where I store & work on my car, but I believe the tranny is still mounted to the crossmember via the transmission mount insulator so I don't think/hope I'll be needing those particular bolts). Does anyone have the thread sizes for these respective bolts? Alternatively, does anyone know of any sort of website / reference guide that may have them listed? I've seen a few websites and listings on eBay selling the various bolts, but unfortunately they don't list the thread size. Thank you! J.

Another nice install!

Thanks Fauxre! I actually planned on doing the exact same set up. I only wish JTR still sold the radiators. I'm anticipating that at this point I'll instead go with the base radiator for a '84-86 Camaro in lieu of the JTR radiator. I'll then add the Taurus fan. BTW, I like rivets -- clean install!

Thanks Miles. Greatly appreciated!

Hi all, Considering that JTR no longer sells radiators for the V8 swap, I figured I'd simply follow the manual and install a '84-86 Camaro radiator. The Autozone part number is #CU965 (http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/prod/ALL/CU965). I would then get the associated fan assembly to go with the radiator (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Compressor-Works-Radiator-Fan-Assembly/1985-Chevrolet-Camaro/_/N-ijj0tZ8iipx?itemIdentifier=270918_111184_7523_). But I'd appreciate everyone's thoughts on whether 2 rows would be more beneficial that a single row, or have I succumbed to the trap that bigger isn't necessarily better? In other words, would a single row be sufficient to cool a 355 small block with the appropriate cooling fan? Does it make a difference that the '84-86 Camaro is 5.0L? I recognize that the JTR manual recommends one-row radiator, but wanted to verify whether anyone had a contrary opinion or recommendation before I move forward with the purchase. Thank you! -Jeff

Domzs -- If you're interested, he sells all his art work! Check out his website at: http://www.rtdesignandfab.com

DAY 18. Applied 2 coats of POR-15 over new rails and added front-to-rear brake line. Took me nearly 45min to complete the brake line. Two lessons learned: (1) keep the line straight as possible so that fitting can be added with ease and (2) leave extra length before cutting line! I really had to muscle the damn thing in place. I guess I'll find out whether I did it correctly once I add fluid?!

Thanks Miles, greatly appreciated! The MC is stock from a '77 280z. Thus, disk-front / drum-rear. I'll go back and review the FSM for other specs, but I believe the above image was all I could find out of the manual. I'll be sure to verify later today. I'm starting to suspect that the spring and plastic piece connect as indeed shown in my pic, with either the plastic piece or spring then fitting behind the cone to create a tighter seal for the brake pipe flange. I dunno... - Jeff

Hi all, Getting ready to re-install my brake system, but when I originally disassembled everything I had a couple loose pieces fall out and would greatly appreciate your help with identifying them! I'm not sure if these are in the correct order, but you'll note the nipple, spring, and plastic piece. After referencing the service manual I suppose the spring could correspond with #13, but I'm not confident. I also don't see the nipple / plastic piece reflected in the manual. Thank you in advance for any guidance!

DAY 17. Cleaned up the booster, MC, and proportioning valves.

After receiving my latest tranche of student loans I reviewed my budget. My restoration expenses have been fairly consistent with expectations but I omitted a key factor -- cost of gas to get to Rochester. Oops! Instead of 4x a month I'll now head out there 2 or 3 times a month. I also have to take qualifying exams this summer (a required hurdle before moving on to the dissertation) which has kept me extremely busy (and stressed!) here in SYR. In addition to teaching responsibilities, I'm reading about a book a day. Nevertheless, I'll definitely have it running by the end of Spring!

DAY 16. Finally finished with the engine bay! So far it has been the least enjoyable part of this entire project, probably because it took several days to complete. Rattle-can paint job turned out great! I decided not to go with the JRT hood latch and instead moved my original latch horizontally across the firewall and welded it in place. I was inspired by this thread and simply did not want to fabricate an entirely new latch. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

DAY 15. Welded in the new frame rails. Although a success, I did manage to set the car on fire from all the heat. Luckily nothing was damaged. Ooops!

They look great. Any pics of the flares installed?

FYI: Just learned that jendosa1 is once again selling flares but now under the name jendosa619.

My primary motivation is to clean-up the engine bay and remove the extraneous hoses, electrical components, and vacuum canister. On the other hand, I've had some folks say that it's not necessary to switch to cable operated and that the AC will continue to work without vacuum assist (although there may be a slight delay in terms of responsiveness). I'd certainly be receptive to other suggestions/guidance as well! P.S. Apologies for hijacking your thread.

Hi Bryan, Very interesting approach! I'm currently in the process of finding an alternative to the vacuum system on my 280 (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110501-ac-vacuum-setup/). Do you think it's possible to take the stock 280 system to an AC shop (or somewhere with the appropriate expertise) and have them modify it to be strictly cable operated? Jeff

I think it's technically called 'metallic silver'. Hopefully it will turn out okay... Ross finished replicating the frame rails. Unfortunately, they won't fit on the car as the floor pans are uneven and will require custom made rails which we're gonna install Tuesday. So if you know anyone who wants some frame rails, I've got some brand new ones available! BTW, check out his recent artwork made out of old silverware: I can't decided which one I like best: the lobster or the praying mantis eating the butterfly.

DAY 14. Continued to work on the engine bay which entailed my first experience with sandblasting. Before: (I actually forgot to take a picture before I started, and you can tell that this pic is technically about 'halfway' done.) After: Goofing off and having fun! Meanwhile, the new engine finally arrived! Looks great -- can't wait to start it up!

DAY 13. My first experience with body work was a (relative) success! As RebekahsZ predicted, it definitely took some time. Eventually I started to get the hang of it and developed my own technique. I'm definitely pleased with the result. I also scrubbed the engine bay with an SOS pad and engine degreaser -- the stuff worked wonders! Over 30 years of gunk removed. Next time I'm going to wash then rattle-can paint the bay.