gravityflyer

(I figured I'd give it another shot and bump it up once more.)

I actually just bought some rubber fuel line hose to run tank-to-engine as well: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac-80060/overview/ I'm sure there is nothing to worry about as long as the product meets national standards.

I just received a copy of the dyno results of my new engine: 412 torque and 395 horsepower! It's quite a bit more power than I had anticipated, but I suppose I shouldn't complain? I can always take steps to reinforce the necessary components.

Yep, I read-up on the proper way of applying bondo only after I finished! Ugh, I suppose there's no better way of learning than from one's own mistakes!?

I actually went with the dyno'd package, only because they extended a holiday discount for me. I had briefly considered an OE replacement but figured if I'm doing a V8 swap I might as well do it right the first time. As a grad student I also made the financial decision that the engine was going to be the one component of my build on which I would not cut any corners. BTW, if you're interested in other alternatives I can send you a spread sheet I created that lists other manufacturers I had considered, including their build specs and prices. In terms of my shopping experience, so far the customer service has been fantastic! They have accommodated a number of special requests I've made regarding build specs and continuously keep me updated on the build with progress reports. I've been working through Ben Steine (ben@tristarengine.com; 715-684-4455) who has been very helpful in the process. Of course, the true test is seeing the final product and will share my thoughts on TriStar then.

Thanks Andy! David did mention that you stopped by a few weeks ago. Although a bit of a drive from SYR, it's definitely a wonderful environment to learn about car restoration. I consider myself very lucky and fortunate to have such a great resource. This summer we'll have to meet up. Looking forward to it!

DAY 12. Not much to report. Continued to put the finishing touches on the engine bay in advance of my new engine's arrival sometime within the next two weeks. Made my first attempt at body work by bondoing the uneven surfaces left over from my previous hack-job at grinding. That bondo sure is pungent! Damn stuff was burning my throat and nose -- the warning label isn't kidding when it says to wear a mask! Unfortunately I couldn't finish since we were getting hit with a snow storm and had to leave the garage early. Will have to get to it next week.

Got a 240 bumper to toss on the front. It's in decent shape, although it could use some work and a re-chrome. I'll probably clean it up someday when I have the funds. Also throwing on a used air dam. I'm in the process of thinking of ways to customize the front grill once the air dam is installed.

Hey NewKid, I copied the relevant sections from the service manual... Sorry if the quality isn't that great. You'll note in figure BF-36 there are 7 screws that hold the assembly in place (for some reason I think I only had six). The screws in the bottom corners of the trunk compartment may be difficult to reach; I think I ended up temporarily removing the plastic panelling on the sides to gain better access. As a side note, be sure to reference the proper way to remove the rivets for the rear panel (figure BF-38) -- makes removal super easy!

Thank you for the response! Just so I understand it correctly, the AC system will continue to work without the vacuum assist?

Yep, he spent most of the day helping me and teaching different techniques. Still trying to get the hang of it. Next time he wants to teach me how to go over them with the TIG. After sanding the welds some areas ended up being slightly uneven so Ross and Jimmy suggested I just bondo to even them out.

DAY 11. My first day of MIG welding! Trying to plug all the holes I drilled when removing various brackets. The end result was a little sloppy (definitely no 'roll of nickels'), but I nevertheless had fun learning! Now grinding my mess. In other news, I grabbed some "new" fenders from 1 Tuff Z. Rat rod anyone?! I assure you it's purely coincidence that it's starting to look like Yuta Akaishi's 240Z!

Loving it!

DAY 10. Finished working on the rear end by drilling out the spot welds and finally removed the bumper trim. Had to take the obligatory engine bay shot! Good bye computer! Hello carburetor! Got a little too aggressive when removing door trim. Gonna have to learn how to do some body work and level it out.

Hi all, I'm curious to learn how others setup their AC vacuum lines when retaining the 280's system. In particular, where did you connect the lines that originally ran to (i) the fast idle actuator and (ii) the check valve? (I assume to the carb and/or intake manifold?) Additionally, did anyone relocate the vacuum canister or keep it at its original location? Would greatly appreciate any suggestions!

DAY 9. Stripped the rear end. Next week I gotta remove the rear bumper trim, or what the service manual apparently calls the "sight shield". It looks like I'll need to bend it upward to expose the spot welds, then use a step bit to drill them out. Already started removing various brackets (i.e. oil filter and canister) from the engine bay using a similar process. Will then plug weld the holes then spray with Dupli-Color Rust Fix until it goes to paint. In other news, changed direction with the engine. Originally planned to build my first engine but almost had a bad experience sourcing a block -- only after delivering to my machine shop did I learn it needed a line bore and crank grind (seized bearing). Luckily I got all my money back! Meanwhile, friends have been advising that I get a crate engine for my first restoration project. Since I'm on a limited budget (grad student) it would suck to have my first engine build "blow up". So I decided to play it safe and bought a 355 SBC crate engine today from TriStar, complete with a 2 year warranty. Moreover, looks like I'm also changing my game plan with respect to the exhaust. I had originally envisioned running dual 2-1/2" pipes but realized that I could save money and weight by running a single 3". I'd now like to mimic this guy's Z (not sure how I came across this pic)... I really like the idea of going bumper-less and no spoiler. The Z's really do have a sexy curve, eh?!

Hi all, Looking for the following, 1. Fender flares. Either ZG or MSA style without bolt holes. Preferably the latter. 2. Non-vented hood. I assume most non-vented hoods are from 240/260s? PM me if you have any leads. Thanks!

Lol! Sounds like I did it right!

Hi all, This afternoon I pulled the wiring harness from my Z, I labeled all the various wires and components, however, I couldn't identify the following, Any thoughts? Perhaps it belongs to some aftermarket device like an alarm? Thanks!

I'm delighted to hear that most guys think I made the right decision. In retrospect, I think both my mom and I knew in our hearts that we couldn't let go of the car. Perhaps some day I too will pass it along to my son?... Glad to hear you're gonna do the same!

Thanks NewKid, me too!!

DAY 8. Removed the "rat's nest", aka engine harness. Couldn't figure out how to remove the damn connector from the junction box. As I move forward with the project, however, I'm starting to learn the fine line between finesse and brute force. In this case, I chose the latter and took a saw and cut the connector out! But for future reference is there an easier way of getting it out?

Just a side note about installing alternative tanks... I was watching a re-run of Muscle Car where they install an OEM tank but needed to modify to install original pick-up and a return line. Interesting technique with the Vaseline: http://www.powerblocktv.com/player/show_player.php?ep_num=MC2007-01&ep_show=MC Watch 8:55 to 9:45.

I just had mine shipped from Oakland, CA to Rochester, NY. The guy I used was Ron Stein (send me a msg and I'll provide his phone number) who has coordinated shipping for a lot of Z car guys around here. Ron works through a public bidding system where you can actually stipulate the price you'll pay to have your car shipped. Shipping companies and private truck drivers can then decided whether or not to accept your bid. The lower your bid the less likely someone will accept; the higher your bid the more likely someone will accept. At the beginning of the summer the average rate from CA to NY was around $800. I didn't have a chance to issue a bid through Ron until the end of summer by which time the average rate had increased due to higher gas prices. I think I ended up paying $1000 plus $50 which is Ron's fee. Actual transport time took about 3 days.

Nice. The tan will complement the blue paint nicely.