gravityflyer

Not sure about the OP, but for me personally I'm looking for something to run duals without cutting spare tire well. I'd be grateful for any suggestions!

Decided to add pics of the three candidates that I think would fit best. 1955 Ford Thunderbird: 1956 Ford Thunderbird: 1984-85 Honda Civic: Again, I have not yet considered design compatibility issues - only size.

In my continuing search for an alternative fuel tank to run duals without cutting spare tire well, I took some crude measurements last night before I left the garage. I believe a 34 x 24 x 6-1/4 tank would fit the space. I then looked through a list of potential candidates to fill said void: 1964-68 For Mustang 32-5/8 x 24-1/2 x 8 (16 gallon) 1955 Ford Thunderbird 29 X 22 X 7-1/2 (17 gallon) 1956 Ford Thunderbird 29 X 22 X 7-1/2 (17.5 gallon) 1988-90 Plymouth Sundance 34-3/8 x 25 x 7-5/8 (14 gallon) 1989-94 Geo Metro 32-1/4 x 20-1/8 x 8 (10.6 gallon) 1960-65 Ford Falcon 32-5/8 x 24-1/2 x 8 (16 gallon) 1984-85 Honda Civic [3-door hatchback model] 31-1/4 x 22 x 7-1/2 (12 gallon) 1990-94 Misubishi Precis 27-1/4 x 24-1/8 x 7-1/2 (12 gallon) 1964-68 Mercury Cugar 32-5/8 x 24-1/2 x 8 (16 gallon) I couldn't find any specs whatsoever on Subarus which might also have a potential candidate for replacement. Presumably most of these can be sourced from a pick 'n pull. Other more expensive alternatives certainly exist, i.e. Tanks Inc. This list represents only my initial research. I have not yet considered filler neck locations, vents, or sending unit issues, however, I hope such issues won't prove to be an insurmountable obstacle. You'll also note that all of these alternative tanks have a height that is slightly larger than desired, but I imagine that the rear valance could be extended without much issue. To be continued...

Hi Wes, Thanks for the tips, greatly appreciated! Also, thanks for the kind words.

DAY 7. It was a pain, but got the dash out. I would be interested to hear if anyone has tips on removing the speedo cable; I had a really hard time reaching in and unscrewing it. Nothing much left! New tranny! WC T5. Pulled from an '89 IROC-Z Camaro. Complete with bellhousing.

Well done! I'm about to prep my own console for a double-din install. I've never 'glassed' before but have been assiduously studying the technique. Thus, I have a few questions about your console process: - Photo 2: Did you use blue painters tape to create a basic template to create the form? - Photo 3: What type of material are you placing over the tape? - Photo 6: It appears that you're going over the glass with some bondo? Is this to remove any imperfections that may have formed from the glass? - What type of paint are you using? I'd like to use something that provides a slight texture to the finished console. Any suggestions? - In later updates to your build I noticed that you installed the aluminum frame for the stereo. Can this simply be screwed into the fiberglass? Sorry for all the questions! Thanks and keep up the good work!

DAY 6. Finally pulled the engine!

If I may, I would like to resurrect this thread as there does not seem to be any updates since. As gvincent mentioned above, most of the previous threads and write-ups have expired pictures. Danno74Z's excellent overview of his LS1 tank install being an obvious exception: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105275-fuel-tank-conversion-ls1/ But I would like to follow-up in particular on gvincent's question regarding alternative fuel tanks that don't require removal of spare tire well and allow for dual pipes. Any suggestions and/or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

DAY 5. Gutted interior. Before: After:

DAY 3 - 4. Pulled the exhaust, fuel lines, and gas tank.

Thanks David!

Thanks, definitely having a blast! (Although sometimes it can be a little overwhelming trying to learn everything.) In terms of V8 I'm slowly piecing everything together by relying on several sources including Vizard's books. At this point I've got an '87 SBC with stock crank and rods which I'll have machined and bored .030 over ('87 and up block was specifically selected based on Vizard's recommendation regarding block wear). I also lucked out and got ahold of a brand new Holley 750 CFM four barrel street carb at a great price. Meanwhile, for the rest of the components I'm probably looking at KB hypereutectic flat tops. In terms of heads, I'd ideally like a 58 or 64cc with 2.02/1.6 valves. Cam will be 224/230 at 050 with 110 lobe separation. I'll probably complete it with 1.6 rockers since I can get a good deal on a used set. BTW, if anyone is interested I'm parting out and selling 280Z components that will be replaced by the V8. PM me if you need/want something in particular.

DAY 2. Drained the fluids, removed radiator, removed fenders.

DAY 1. Finally got the Z out of storage and began by taking stock of the overall condition of the car. It's been about 9 years since I last saw it. Overall the car is in good shape, although some rust issues in the rocker panels, dog legs, fenders, and frame rails. Fortunately it appears the floor pans are still in good shape. I suspect that at some point the car must have bottomed-out, scraping off any rust inhibitors and exposing it to the elements of time and weather.

Hi everyone, I'm finally at a point where I can initiate my build thread. But first, the background story.... The 280Z was purchased by my father in 1977. I was practically raised in the car and all my life have been involved in the Z subculture. In fact, shortly after I was born my father decided to take his first born son for a ride in his Z - our first father/son adventure. Unfortunately, after a few short miles I apparently vomited all over the car. Many years later my father taught me how to drive in the same Z (in fact, I still remember that night). In 2001 he passed away as a result of a heart attack. My mother contemplated selling the car since it would only sit untouched in the garage. I countered that it probably wouldn't be worth much and that it is somewhat of an American tradition to hand-down a father's sports car to his son. But since I had neither the time nor money to do anything with the Z it has been in storage for the past 11 years. This summer I had a sudden realization and deep desire to work on the Z. Since I had almost zero experience and knowledge I have spent the past few months learning everything I can about cars. Alas, I'm finally at a point where I can begin work and revitalize the Z. Thus, I now begin this build thread.... My 1977 280Z, Lake Tahoe, circa 2003:

Hi all, I understand that JTR and most folks at HybridZ recommend the 88-92 WC T5s but is there any reason why earlier WC (i.e. 83-87) are omitted from much consideration? Although I'm a novice, my understanding is that other than a slight difference in the RPO (MK6 vs. M39) they're essentially the same and all classified as "world class". Yet there is conflicting information regarding earlier versions qualifying as "world class", some explicitly declaring they are WC while others declaring they are not. Other sources are ambiguous and simply state that GM WCs begin in 1988 without addressing earlier models. To add to the confusion, it appears that production of the MK6 and M39 overlapped and both persisted through 1991. Given this overlap, how does it affect the generalized contention that snchronizers were updated on 88-92 transmissions? Whew! I'm just curious whether anyone has undertaken the time to chronicle the exact history of the GM WC?

Hi all, I hope this is the appropriate section to pose my question... Is there is a general consensus or criteria as to what warrants a cut & weld approach, versus a full rotisserie approach, versus giving up and parting it out. I couldn't find any indication as to what point or threshold it would be necessary to undergo a rotisserie restoration of my Z or forgo the project altogether. Is there a particular percentage of rust coverage or general rule of thumb that more experienced folks follow in making such a determination? I've got a '77 280 that has spent 20 years in CO and UT, subject to winter road salt. What's more, it's spent the past 10 years sitting outside in a storage lot in Oakland. As of this past week I once again have the car in my possession. As anticipated, the entire floor / rails have succumb to rust rot. In fact, the rails crumpled under the weight of the floor jack. Given the extent of the rust, I imagine that any restoration would go beyond merely cutting and welding new floor pans and rails, but instead would require a full rotisserie-based restoration. I'm wondering whether going this route would even eliminate the cancer or is the car beyond repair? I'm sure pictures would be helpful and hope to have some posted in the next week or so. J.

Incidentally, the latest episode of Muscle Car briefly mentioned the need for a return line in terms of vapor lock: http://www.powerblocktv.com/player/show_player.php?ep_num=MC2012-14&ep_show=MC

Thanks Dave! Actually, I think we met at the Z show in Webster last month. I'll drop you an email now...

Hi all, Found a guy who lives nearby willing to part with 240z bumpers for a great price. Both are in decent shape. The only drawback is a slight dent in the front bumper, right at the front tip. I assume this is a relatively easy fix -- I would guess the process would be to anneal the dent with a propane torch, followed by some carefully placed smacks with a rubber hammer? If so, what sort of 'backing' would you recommend I use under the dent when pounding it out? Or does the fact that the dent is on the tip increase the difficulty level of the project for a novice like myself? It may be difficult to get a precise strike with a hammer and I might need a metal block as an extension of some sort to get into the crevice. Meanwhile, after removing the bumper guards I anticipate that I can weld the holes shut for a smooth look. Lastly, re-chroming would be the final necessary step. Any thoughts on whether this would be a viable project / purchase would be greatly appreciated! Thanx!