dizzle

I had mine welded straight onto the outlet side of the intercooler end tank. Works great

I used the stock headlights from a H2. mounted in same as stock and were cheap as hell. (free)

Well I am going to look at this engine tomorrow, bring my borascope with to check the cylinders. If it works out I will have a sweet RB20det intake manifold for sale;

I can fab some new mounts if I have to, but the question is it worth it? I could have the RB20 dropped in and running in a weekend, and the RB25 probably a couple of weeks(crossing my fingers).

Will my mounts still line up you think? Oh and is tigerjapanese any good? I talked to them on the phone and they sounded kind of shady. Royaljapanese.com was 250 more, but engine came with 60 day warranty and guarenteed to be under 40k miles. Engine pulled from running cars with cluster to verify mileage.

So after 10 miles with a smile on my face, I started to pull into my shop and she died. Timing belt idler bolt sheared off and resulted in a head full of bent valves. After a few people sweared up and down that it is a non-interferance motor, I took the head off and found that they are very WRONG. But anyway, I was going to order another rb20det from roylejapanese.com on friday, but today i found a rb25det longblock only locally in town. And I am wondering what if anything will swap from my rb20det onto the rb25? I know the accessories are interchangeable, and if I do it I will be keeping my rb20det trans. My main questions are will the engine mounts stay in the place, is the upper half of the intake plenum the same (I have a new top half made), fuel rail etc? And is the motor physically bigger? ie L x W x H? Has anyone done this with parts from both? The guy is selling the long block for 900, is that a good price? Otherwise it will be another rb20 for me, but the rb25 power would be great as long as I dont have to put too much more money into it. Oh, I am running custom exhaust manifold, t3/t4 60 trim turbo setup, tial 38mm WG, SDS stand alone, DSM 450cc inj, Custom forward facing upper intake manifold, Walbro 255, 3" turbo back exhaust, precision FMIC goal was 300 streetable whp Any input would be great...

I will post a pic tonight, b day party last night and my head hurts still

Well I am probably over exadjerating a little... But is there a benifit to strengthening these areas?

well my engine bent all of the valves the first day i drove it. So since the motor is coming out, I am going to paint my engine bay before the new one goes in. Heres the question: There is about a 1/16" to 1/8" gap from the rails to the body just above the spot welds. Actually all over the F-ing place, All of the sheet metal looks like it was super glued together. Is there anything to be gained structuraly by re-enforcing these seams by addin some welds to the unibody seams? I would think so, but I don't know. I planned on smoothing out the underhood before I paint or anything. The car has barely any rust so the frame rails are fine. Any advice??

Well let me know how it works out

Make sure and replace the Timing belt idler bolt with a hardened one!!! just got make car on the road for the first time on friday. Car made it to work and then sitting at idle the idler bolt snapped and trashed all the valves!!! REPLACE THE BOLT!!!!! I found 5 people on Nico who had the same problem... Anyone have a spare rb20 head?? AHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!~!!

No I used a stock gasket. The cool part is that the Carbon Fiber absorbs almost 0 heat! With the engine idling for over an hour it was still cold to the touch. Do you have any experience with working with CF? If not here is a few tips; You MUST use a special "Vinyl Ester Resin". Standard polyester resin will deform with heat at fairly low temps. I am assuming that you are using CF cloth like I did. But You need to lay the sheets in opposing directions when you lay it out. It will increase your stiffness of your part. I did not do this and that is part of the reason that my part flexes under load. It wont really affect anything but stiff is always better. I saw your wooden core, that looks like a lot of work. Use green florest foam. That stuff old ladies make flower arrangements out of. It is really easy to shape, and Resin will not disolve it. You still need to tape it off though. Any q's let me know...

Well I had mine on the road on friday and it was running really good. Drove it about 20 miles to work, got to the garage door and, ugh... Well my motor happened to have the weak timing belt idler bolt that I have read a few people have had. The bolt sheared off and bent all of the valves in the head. I had replaced the tensioner and idler when I first got the motor a year a ago. It was running great, and then catistrophic failure... Anyone have a spare RB20 head???????

Well the engine has been runnign for a while and has had 0 problems. I am only boosting 11 lbs right now but no signs of fatigue. The only thing I have run into is that the CF does contract under vacuum. But no leaks what so ever... The part is really not that heavy, but if I was to make another one it would be out of 3/8" alumminum and 10 layers of CF. I really do not see my design having any issues up to 20 psi. After that I really don't know. I did take steps to increase the surface area where the CF and alumminum mate up. And I am sure that this is the reason why it has not blown. Still have my templates... Interested to see how yours turns out keep updating...

Trying to limit the amount of hot coolant running through the the intake man on my RB20det. Has anyone ever done this, and if so which ones can i eliminate? I am pretty sure that the one that runs across the top infront of the fuel rail can go. But the do I just loop the outlet at the heater hose to the one coming off of the thermostat housing? I know the lower water pipes run into the head so those have to stay. But my new turbo is not water cooled so I already took off the hard line and that y'ed into a bunch of stuff. Any help appricated...

lookin good I will need to subscribe to this one..

I have one that is lighty hacked... main harness is pretty much there, the ECU plug is uncut. I think I cut the o2, MAF, wires and that is about it... 50 bucks if you want it

Yeah, got my fuel system pretty close to done now. Trying to figure out how/if i need a surge tank?? How did you do yours? Other than that all I need to do is mount my crank triggers and put a base map in. I hooked up the starter and got the engine to crank over, it was nice to find out that it did not have a siezed piston or something. I have had the engine for 2 years and have never turned it over...

Sweet, glad to see someone is making good power on rb20. definatly post up some pics god I hope i break 300 hp...

thanks, n Got all of the wiring loomed and mounted yesterday except the hall effect sensor which has to still be mounted. If I work really hard this weekend i may be able to start this thing.

Well I just got the car back yesterday. They did a SWEET job, worth the money for sure. This is what Modern Automotive Performance did; 3" turbo back exhaust Magnaflow 3" straight thru muffler w/ vibrant resonator Custom rear tranny mount (to allow extra clearance for exhaust) new intercooler mount new black wrinkle powder coated intercooler charge pipes mitsu 1g eclipse BOV welded onto intercooler Oil and return lines The exhaust turned out great! They took a lot of time into making sure it tucked up tight to the chassis. the charge pipes fit perfect and the intercooler moved forward and down for more air flow. All that is left is the fuel system, and she will be ready to start! gettin so close...

73

sorry, mounts did not come with any paperwork or anything so I never knew

and now the shop that has the car found that the motor was sitting in there very crooked. and needed to put a 3/8" shim on the one side....

They are not bad, but the shop that my car is at now says that they are a little crooked. I will post up a pic of them later in the week when I get my car back. They are kind ugly, welds were good but they did not clean them up or anything. They look like someone made them in their garage. Car should be done this week. All new 3" exhaust, intercooler piping, and downpipe... Can't wait it is getting close to being able to turn the key...