dizzle

I am running SDS on my Rb25. Idles great, but I need to run the SDS fast idle. Stumbles on start up a bit. Once shes warm smooth as silk. How is your AFR? Don't know if the L series is that much different but I am at 19-18 vac at idle, 15 sounds a little high. The SDS manual says most engine should be at 20-17 i think. You could have a vac leak somewhere....

I have a rb25det in my 73' z, and the mckinney mount kit. The mckinney mounts came with the solid poly mounts and were way too stiff. So I decided to swap over to the jag mounts that people use for the 2jz swap. I did some basic measurements before I re-built the X member. And welded in new mounting points. Everything worked great and no problems. Then I swapped over to an R200 and I noticed some rather bad driveline vibration at higher speeds. I searched hybridZ and found that I probably have a pinon angle problem. I pulled the top washers of the mustache bar bushings, found some info that said that should help a little. It did, but it is still not gone. So I started to look at how the engine is sitting in there and I think it is crooked and up too high in the front. I am assuming that this is causing too much angle on the trans output shaft. So I am going to try and lower the front of the motor, but this means I have to modify the engine mounts. So what is the best way to go about this? I am assuming that I have to level the car on stands, and then level the engine? But where do i reference level on the rb? The oilpan? timing cover? the valve covers look croocked all the time I think. Does anyone experience doing this?

I dont belive it will, are there two input wires? One for each speed? If so, you could run a standard thermesitor temp switch set to the lower temp and then have the sds output turn on at the higher temp. SDS is sweet for everyday reliablity but just doesnt have the bells and whistles that some stand alones do. But either way i love mine

thanks, Now to hook up my HKS boost control and turn up the fun:)

I am running a 38mm Tial wastegate on my rb25det. Right now the side vacum port is running to the intake manifold after the T body. I was checking the Tial website and they say that it is supposed to be before the t body, in the hot side charge pipe. Am I losing anything by having mine hooked up this way? will this affect how boost comes on or anything?? I just am not sure...

I believe you can do this lsd carrier swap, but I thought that i read you need the cv's for the 88 SS w/ the vlsd. Or supposedly there is some j30 cv's that can be swapped on to the z31 axle. oh on a side note, I just did my r200 swap in my 73 240z and am having the exact same vibration. I changed the mustache bar bushings, and have a new front diff mount. I am running an rb25 with a custom driveshaft, but it was not bad before with r180. Can pinon angle do this??

Well my s30 still has the mechanical speedo. And the rb20 still has the cable style speedo drive. The cable fits up perfect but with the 3.34 rear end, was aprox 20% off. So there are z31's that had this style speedo drive?? On a side note, do you think I chose the right gearing?? A friend swore up and down that the 3.7 would be best for a rb25det street car. I still have another 3.9 r200 in the garage I can use if it is still going to be too long of gears. Just would like to know what others are running in their rb powered z cars??

So then what cars speedo gear will fit into my rb20det trans?? I read about some austrailian market stuff that might fit, but not much help here. Or am I just stuck getting an aftermarket??

Does anyone know what ratio rear end originally came in the skyline with the rb20? I am changing my rear end gears and hoping that my speedo might be somewhat close. I Need to do some more searching on what car I can cross ref the correct one. But crossing my fingers that the rb20 trans came with a 3:71

glad to hear it! Should have my car on the road this weekend

I have the same swap in my 240z, with the rb20 trans. The driveshaft bolts on mine kept coming loose too. My 300hp rb25 destoryed my r180 in 2 months of just normal street driving, and 5 pulls down the drag strip. I am doing my r200 conversion right now and cant wait to see what it feels like with the better 3.7 ratio. with the 3.36 3rd gear went to 115 mph and was just killing the tq numbers. Change out that diff and it will be a completely different animal. Oh and do you know if changing over to the rb25 trans will be a direct swap? Or do you have to have the driveshaft and rear trans mount rebuilt? I was thinking about doing this as well since I drove the car for 20 mile with zero trans fluid in it (i know, I am an idiot...) Now she has a faint tick... ugh

Modern automotive performance did my exhaust on my Z, they were good people. I was talking to some of their guys and they said that they were having custom made impellers made for the 16g turbos. They were making 500 whp on a DSM with a 16g!! Might ditch my t3/t4 for one of those at that price

found one, just not local. I am just really trying to see what she will do with some decent gearing

Title says it all, I need an r200 mustache bar for my 73 240z

I am thinking about just making one , since I have not been able to find one? I am in need of some dimensions, or some advice on how to align the diff.

I am putting an r200 3.7 (open) in my 73 240z. The rb25 shredded my old R180 (w/ 200k mi). I am having trouble finding an R200 mustache bar and am now planning on fabbing up an adaptor or a whole new mount all together. I need to kmow how far down the R200 bar has the holes for mounting the back of the diff? I am just trying to make sure I get it in there level, and sitting where it is supposed to be. If someone could place a straight edge across the top of the 2 bar bushings (where the bar meets the body) and measure down to the center of the mounting holes I would really appriciate it. I really want to feel the difference going from 3.35 gears to 3.7. I should put down a lot more tq, a lot quick acceleration, and 3rd gear wont go up to 115 mph anymore(serious). thanks

From what I am reading the VVT (or what ever it is called) is supposed to come on at 1050 and then shut off at 4200 on a stock car anyway. So what do you think would be the best way for me to hook this up to the SDS with sigle on/off RPM switch? I can get a RPM window switch and run it independent of the SDS, or should I just have it be on all the time and have the SDS rpm switch turn off the VVT at what ever point looks best on the graph?? I hooked it up to a button and turned it on at idle and it did not seem to kill the idle or anything. But I do not know if there is a negative to having it be on at idle. Any tuning tips for me by the way? Did a little AFR fuel tuning, and with the timing still set fairly conservative I out down 290 hp/ 224tq at only 11 psi. I want to get the engine dial'd in at the lower boost pressure first and then turn it up a little. I'd like to try and get that tq number up if possible. thanks

So you are familier with the sds em4-6f?? If so i need to get the pin out info for my unit so I can add that knock sensor wire as well as the Rpm switch. I would like to be able to hook up my VCT. And have you hooked up the VCT on the rb25det with the sds? What rpm should it turn on/off? And does it make any difference in power?

Well i am running the SDS system and it only gives a base timing setting, and then a advance or retard to manifold pressure value. I don't know if anyone is familier with this system on a RB but any advice would help a lot? Does anyone here run SDS on their RB? It is a really slick system, easy to use, but my unit did not have the knock sensor input wire. So I can't monitor when it is knocking. So right now i just have it very conservitive. I am currently only boosting 11 lbs

I am running sds on my rb25det, and I am wondering what kind of timing map i should be running? I can handle the retard/psi (i think), but wondering about the base timing map. thanks,

Always thought this would be a great swap, how does it drive without a heavy cast iron block hanging out front? definately post up a vid or something!

Here is the way I did mine, I am running SDS so I didn't need to recirculate