dizzle

On your R/t mount are you using the rubber or poly bushing? I read that the rubber bush can break on the first drive. And have you put a couple of washers inbetween the diff and the mount? I just went through a "hunt for clunk" and that is what it turned out to be. The poly mount was just squished to the diff, and did not have a solid mounting surface(with the diff having the hump in the middle between the mounting holes). I added 2 washers under the mount, made sure everything is tight and no more clunk.

I have a magnetic digital angle finder and right now I am at; Trans down in rear= 3 deg driveshaft down in rear= 2.2 deg diff up in front= 3.7 deg I have done plenty of searching, my op angles are .7 and 1.5. According to what I have read on a 20" driveshaft my operating angles need to be 4 deg or less and within 1 deg of one another. I am still having vibration problems. Vibration comes on at about 50 mph and then fades at 70-75 mph. This is why I am wondering what the angles of the engine, trans, and diff for a stock Z. Any help would be appreciated.

I have been working on getting my pinion angle right for 6 months in my 73 S30 w/ an rb25det. I am looking for the angles that are on the factory engine set up in an s30. I need the downward angle of the engine, the driveshaft angle, and the upward angle of the the differential. I am finishing my R/T mount tomorrow and really want to get the drivetrain solid in this thing, Finally!!!! Thanks

let me know if it works. I am trying to go vlsd and having a hard time finding axles that will work. I tried putting J30 interior cv joints on a set of 280zx cv shafts, and then putting the j30 stubs into the diff. But the 6 bolt stubs would be a little too close to the A arm. So now I put a welded diff in and HATE it! I really need to figure this out...

Are these the same amount of splines as my 240z ones? And do you still have them?

I am in the middle of doing the same swap. What are you doing for axles?? I got the j30 axles an stubs, swapped the diff side cv over to a 280zx halfshaft. And then put the 280zx companion flanges on my 240z stubs. I havent tried to bolt everything up yet, but they sure do look like they are going to be too long with the j30 stubs in the longnose r200. Any help would be great

Looking for some stub axles for a 240z (or 280z preferred). Broke mine trying to do cv swap

Mine is the same way, It is your pinion angle. http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html This is a great article, I am in the process of rebuilding mine as well. Z's are very susceptible to pinion angle vibrations, due to the extremely short driveshaft.

I bought an ISIS manifold, it was worth it for the price. But there will be a couple things you will want to do; The coolant pipe fitting just kind of slid in to the manifold so I put some black RTV on it and drilled and tapped a hole in the manifold and outlet and bolted the 2 together. Definitely will want to gasket match. The intake ports were quite a bit off in a couple spots. I just marked the manifold with the gasket on there, with a sharpie. then ground the aluminum casting with a dremel tool until it lined up. DON'T use the fittings they send in the kit! I had 2 snap off, in the manfiold. I would go the the hardware store and get a 1/4" NPT tap and all new brass fittings. All of those things took about 3 hours maybe. For sure worth the 500+$ you will save. I am happy with mine, for the price. We would all have Greddy if it wasn't for the price...

Get a feeler gauge and try and get around 2mm clearance from the magnets. Be sure your bracket is tight and that both sensors will read "Seen" when u crank it over by hand. Set your fuel values for start up as instructed in the SDS manual, set the magnet position to 80 deg for a starting point, set your timing to 10 deg, and have the fuel knob ready. If u have all of these things set and still no start u will need to look a little closer at your magnets. I have done 4 of these EM4-6f installs now and the hall effect sensors are more forgiving than expected. Post up and let us know if you can figure it out...

Oh, and I would pull the bolt for the timing idler and replace it with a grade 8 bolt and re tq to spec. My rb20det was junked after 15 miles of driving, when that bolt sheared off.

I run the SDS and it is nice and easy. The nicest part is that there barely any wiring. If you are looking for a nice clean engine bay I like the standalone. I have heard good things about the Bosch pump, I went with the CSL392 walbro. Thought it was going to be really loud but not bad at all.

Rb20det for 2 days (then it broke) But daily drove my rb25det all summer! dyno'd 298hp at 11psi (mustang dyno), now with different gearing and more spark probably 320hp

no, SDS uses a hall effect sensor with 4 magnets drilled in the back of the crank pulley. SDS is by no means the nicest stand alone out there. But it fit my needs, and it seemed that the cars run it are reliable and you arent always messing with it. I just don't think my ECU experience was enough that I felt comfortable with all of the things you could do with megasquirt. I wanted someone else to do thinking for me. Sounds like you are familiar with the MS so go for it. I will for sure watch your thread to see how it turns out!

I will have to look where to get a rebuild kit and how much they are...

I wish... But money is tight and if I went rb25 trans i would have to get a new driveshaft and mount as well. It would surely be the best option if i had the money though...

Has anyone rebuilt an rb20 trans. I have one hooked to my rb25det and I feel that she is on the way out. I am getting excessive noise under cruising, like the bearings are a little worn. And if I am hard accelerating it doesn't go into 2nd very well. I know that the KA and the RB20 trans are very similar, but will a rebuild kit for a KA trans have the parts I will need to fix my RB20 trans? Thanks for any advice...

I started to do mega squirt on my rb25. But after seeing how it all worked opted for SDS. It seemed that the megasquirt had "too many" options. I am sure all of the megasquirt guys will flame me. But the open source code allows for anyone and everyone to program for it. And for me at least, it was a little overwhelming. And the edis set up is UGLY on the front of the crank, yuck. If there was a good way to pick up crank position I probably would have stuck with it. But I decided to go SDS and I really like it. Had it on 2 engines and both started first try.

I would like to see a mount kit that uses a good oem rubber mount. Like the jag ones the 2jz guys use. I bought the mckinney's and the poly hockey pucks were a bit harsh for daily driving. So I rebuilt the crossmember for the jag ones.

It was from an 89 camaro tranny mount. I just had to rasp out the holes a little. The section the rear cross member an. Weld in a piece of 3/16 plate with a hole in it. Worked really nice. And it is a good rubber mount, might still need to weld in a couple of braces on the plate though. The mount just had a stud coming off of the bottom, so I can just add washers to adjust the angle

I was having trouble getting enough adjustment on the diff angle, so I retrofit a trans mount from a camero to replace the front diff mount on my r200. Worked really nice. Now I can just add or remove washers to change the pinion angle. Not to mention that the mount was 7$ at auto zone.

So you are saying that the top of the engine should read a 10 deg slope? Or the oilpan? I Have rebuilt my engine mounts 3 times now trying to get my pinion angle under control. Has anyone noticed any vibration issues from running a poly trans mount?

I will give hell this weekend and let u guys know what happens. Thanks for the help

I ground down the mustache bar bushings, to get it to tilt the nose down some more. That helped some, but the vibration is still there. It seems that it am just have a hard time finding a way to meausure the angle accurately. Putting the cr on jack stands is not exactly level:( I will keep trying I guess. If I can't get this thing right soon I may just swap it over to a newer r200 shortnose. The longer driveshaft would be more forgiving right? Ugh......

The vibration i am getting is definately from the rear. But it is at any speed over 50 and is fairly constant weather I am accel/decel or not. It comes on at about 50 (lightly) and is dramatic by 70 (or that is what the speedo says anyway). From what i read it sounded like a pinion angle problem, but this is making me kind of second guess. When the old r180 was in there it made noise, but did not shake the rear of the car like it is now. The rear does feel kind of sloppy when i mash the gas, reminds me of when the front diff mount was shot, But much lighter. i am going to try and lower the mounts first. But if not, should i take that r200 to a shop and get it rebuilt or try another one? I thought these things were indestructible? I have a spare r200 that I got for the input flange and stub axles, maybe i could try that one. But just so I get this straight... You are saying a excess of backlash (which I am assuming is the play from when the input shaft starts to turn, untill the out shafts start to turn right?) Can cause this kind of vibration? The diff makes no groans or whines when driving and the oil was very clean when I drained it. I am familiar with bad diff bearing noise from destroying the old r180. And if not: Do I measure the pinion angle with the driveshaft removed, perpendicular to the tail of the trans, and off of the pinion flange on the diff? Or off of the u joints themselves? This is just starting to make me feel stupid