Bernardd

I had the same problem when I first did mine. I had wired the maf connector wrong. Check your mail for a pinout sheet. Does the maf voltage change with the rpm? (pin 31 at the ecu) It should be about 2.6 or so volts at idle. Bernard

I picked up a modulator after the rebuild. I never looked at it closely but the part # was for a turbo tranny. Never made any difference. Thanks Jim Bernard

Thanks Scottie. I'll probably end up selling my setup on ebay and getting a properly setup hybrid. Bernard

Yo: I'm just going by the dyno runs I've seen on this website and in most of them the power drops off sharply just before 5k. I have a 60 trim t04b with which I'm sneaking up on 20 psi with my homebrew ecu. I don't want to run out of exhaust flow when I get beyond my current 16 psi. I'm finding there's not a big difference between 14-16 psi with my gtech which I realize may be somewhat inaccurate but I am able to get repeatable runs. And remember I'm using the stock housing and turbine. No stage anything wheel. Scottie: My turbine housing exit diameter is about 1 7/8 ". What is the gn's diameter? Any chance of getting a hold of an L28et exhaust turbine to see if the bolts matchup? If you can get me the garrett part # for the .82 housing I can stop in at a local shop to see if they can help. Or I can send mine over. Bernard

I drilled the holes as specified. I have not played with the modulator at all. Can you give me some direction as to which way to start? Would I be lengthening it? Is it adjustable or do I have to buy parts and install? If the instructions are in the FSM I'll be ok. I'm just not sure which way(in or out) does what. My trans was in rough shape when I had it rebuilt, so yes it does shift much better. But it's the second to third shift that's not what I want it to be. I'd like it to be as firm as the 1-2 which is quick and solid. I will set the line pressure to max shortly and then start with modulator. Bernardd

I did the mods as per the info you had for your mods. I did not do the mod for max line pressure as the info suggested. Another tranny guy talked me out of it. Timing issue??! Please explain. I have no clue how an auto trans works. Bernard

I realize that, I'm just wondering if the exhaust housing bolts up to the backing plate. I believe the compressor side does. And most importantly what effect will this have on performance? It would probably add lag but at the same time increase top end. Scottie, do you have any info on year these came from or if the .63 turbine housing is the same as ours? Dimensions of the outlet?

Would this be an option? I made the classic mistake of leaving the stock turbine in while upgrading to a t04b compressor. As far as I can tell from the dyno sheets I've seen posted the stock turbine won't allow much over 325 crank hp. I got to thinking about a .82 a/r from the GN. It looks like it may bolt up but I haven't actually had one in my hand. Perhaps someone has one they measure. Or I can send a t3 housing to someone to compare. Bernard

I thought you were going to do a GM turbo 400 conversion? What changed your mind? Are you going to have parts manufactured for sale? I'm not happy with how my trans is behaving. It revs up 2-400 rpm when shifting 2-3. It goes up even higher if I leave it drive and stomp on it. I didn't install the shim to bring everything up to full pressure. Perhaps I should do that before ripping it out and looking elsewhere. Bernard

David: Have you considered an rb20det ecu, sensors etc? It is fully hacked, bordering on GMECM flexibility. The ecu and harness are readily available from Australia,and the wiring diagrams are available on the net. I think that all the Nissan coilpack management systems use dummy coilpacks. By that I mean they don't have any dwell calc's other than what the ecu does. If you use a coilpack for a different engine it would be as simple as using the dwell table for that particular ecu/coilpack and away you go. You may even be able to use a single coil on a multicoil setup by altering the dwell table. I was planning on going this way but changed my mind when I was able to use the vg30et ecu to run my 370cc injectors. Another question I have is are you going to tune this yourself? Or pay JWT for a custom setup? Personally I'd rather have a carb than go JWT but I'm kinda weird about being talked down to. It's very doable but a lot of work for no gains that I can see. If you want info any of the other ecu's let me know I have piles of info.

What are the goals for the M30 ecu? Besides being sequential, are you going big hp turbo, NA, bling bling??? Are you going to pay JWT to reprogram? Is it a cost is no object thing? Are you expecting to install it and the car to run perfectly? Just wondering. Personally I would use the z32 ecu. It's sequential as well and eeeezzzy to work with. You can even get a realtime datalogger, maptrace and editor all in one for the z32. Anyway it would be cool if you could get it to work. Bernard

The guy will now take offers. He was asking for 2k canadian. He bought a new vehicle. Bernard

Changed the fuel and timing maps this afternoon with good results. I can consistantly pull 290hp+ @16psi with the gtech. Last year the best I was able to muster was around 220hp@14psi (stock injectors) . Huge difference in response after I changed the timing maps to what Scotty suggested. Only problem is that the maf is nearly maxed out so unless I can find the injector scalar I'll have to do it all over again after I change the maf. It'll be about 3 weeks before I get a chance to dyno it. So far so good. Bernard

Info is available here: http://imflame.ricetek.net/~darkhalf/ Go to using Romeditor. Basically remove prom, install socket (28pin), using eprom burner and eraser, burn new eprom with appropriate values for what you want to do and reinstall eprom. Repeat until you're happy with the way the car is running.

I've only adjusted the main fuel map in the eprom. I'm going to fine tune today then it's off to the dyno hopefully soon. Bernard

I finally got off my a$$ and installed the 370cc injectors to try some new code. Its a little rich but it runs and drives ok. I will have to lean it out some more. I managed this without touching the maf table so it won't messup the ignition table. I'm going to have to rescale the enrichment tables as well as they are still setup for the stock injectors. So far so good.

Did you check timing and fuel pressure? And it's odd that you don't have voltage at the regulator. Try squeezing the hose on reg when the car is cold. Tps would be my next guess once the other stuff checks out. It should go open around 900 rpm. I don't know exactly where the dial is supposed to be. Sounds like they've eliminated that function.

After it's warmed up and you squeeze the air reg does the idle go down? You should have a switched 5vdc across the connector. Check continuity to the ecu. It would take a long time for the reg to close if it rely's on the engine to warm it up. Also check to make sure the little screw on the side of the ecu isn't fully clockwise or counterclockwise. Not sure which but one of them puts you in diagnostic mode and the other way is to test a/f mixture at idle.

Is your air regulator getting 5vdc at key on? Try squeezing it with pliers to close it and it should drop the rpm if that's the problem. Does it rev beyond 2k? If not then the maf is connected wrong or faulty. Check on z31.com for the diagnostic procedure for the ecu. It may tell you what's wrong. You changed all the stuff they asked for right? Cas wheel, some wiring, fuel pump relay?

Guys, go here to find Romeditor http://imflame.ricetek.net/~darkhalf (or email me) and for a vg30et binfile. You also want to download the rb30 address file. This is for the 86 turbo ecu. Update on ecu: I can reprogram for larger injectors now, but I can only do it by modifying the vq (maf) table. Probably not the best way of doing it as timing is effected as well, but so far that's it. Haven't had time to play with the timing yet or fuel maps much. Bernard

I haven't actually run my car with the megasquirt/spark ecu's yet but it should work. The cas sends out a 0-5 volt square signal per cylinder. That's what mspark wants to see. Bernardd

I like mine too!! And I've found out that the stock z31 maf is good to about 350 hp. It looks like I've finally got around the problem I was having to recalibrate for larger injectors. I don't want to say for sure I've got it working but the results so far (on bench) are looking good. What year of ecu did you install? Bernard

Voltage problem?? Wiring can't supply the current/Voltage. Just a thought.

What's the maximum voltage you've gotten out of the 86 Maf and what have you dyno'd the car at so far? Just curious as to what hp the maf is good to.

The calcs are in the link I provided in an above post. There are several tables that keep injection between a min and a max. They are loaded if you use the cr31 .adr file with the vg30 bin file. Another value that needs adjusting is the invalid injection time which is the amount of time the injector is energized to the time it is fully open. Injector Slope, I believe is the correct term. There are also rpm scalers that need to be adjusted if you wish to go beyond the redline and control the afr. Otherwise the ecu does it on it's own and I have no idea what it does beyond the rpm scale. As there seems to be some interest in this again I'll change my injectors tonight and start playing with the code again. Jeffp: send me an email if want to start playing with the code in your ecu. You'll need a completely different .adr file to work with. Bernard