Bernardd

Jamie, I've been searching high and low for some info on these turbo's. I've been told by someone on the jyturbo list that it's basically the same setup as a Buick GN. If you can take off the compressor housing and exhaust housing you could measure the wheels and then find the correct maps at Majestic Turbo.com. They list the maps as well the inducer and exducer measurements. Any turbo shop should be able to tell you what the torque values are when re-assembling. I would be very interested in this info. Bernard

The z31 coupled with the setup as Nathan has is hands down the cheapest and is proven. All you need is the maf, ecu and cas wheel. You can now purchase a Romulator WITH MAPTRACE, for $179. That makes the ecu pretty much the same as standalone to at least 420cc injectors. There should be Nissan ecu specific software available soon, but isn't really needed as the critical tuning maps are known in the z31 ecu. The cost would be whatever the conversion parts cost + 179 for the romulator + laptop if you can't borrow one. And you'll have to get a socket installed. Once the maps are to your liking there are any # of guys on the internet that will burn whatever you want as long as you provide an eprom. I would think that you could do that for less than $400 dollars and tune to your liking.

Don't know if this works in all cars but my key opens the locks and starts a buddy's 83 280zx and also another buddy's 85 300zx. Perhaps someone who's aware of this is responsible......... Apparently it's a big problem in Australia with Nissan's.

The z31 ecu is tunable. Not all the tables are identified but it's being worked on. I have a "romtuned" ecu running my L28et. I know of several people that have tuned the rb30et ecu as well (same ecu) as at least one person who's tuning his z31 ecu for his setup with a wideband. I will be using a wideband next summer along with an emulater packaged with trace software to tune my car. JWT does z31 ecu conversions for the L28et.

There are a lot of pages dedicated to Nissan ecu tuning. The 88 ecu's behave very similiarly and have much of the data in the same locations as the z32 ecu. This page explains it very nicely: http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/turboupgradeforvg30dett/id10.html NA ecu should work fine.

I've done the swap as well. I used SleeperZ conversion chart and frankly couldn't have done it successfully without it. If you plan on modifying the ecu for larger injectors and tune it for more power, it's much easier to use the later ecu's. The 88's are straightforward and behave in the same manner as other Nissan ecu's, the 86 is also quite easy but the older 84+85 ecu's have a smaller eprom that becomes a roadblock to tuning. You'll have to use the correct o2 sensor for the ecu you're going to use. Sleeper, that stalling issue is easily fixed by increasing the minimum pw table @ 0x3E80 Bernard

I've got the efi pinouts and a schematic for the efi and a spare ecu you can have for a few bucks. I'll scan and send it over shortly. Bernard

Girls: (Except for zr8ed and Datsunlover) You guys have no idea. I got called out last Saturday just before midnight to change out a padmounted power distribution transformer. Some moron in a backhoe hit it while clearing snow. I had to splice torn highvoltage cables which means 90% of the work has to be done without gloves on in order to keep the connection clean. Actual time spent outside was about 5 hrs. The temp at one of my co-workers place read -36 C. And it was windy. I should regain feeling in my hands sometime in April.

The afm is set very lean from factory. You can get rid of the bog by increasing static fuel pressure, loosening the afm door a bit, closeing the idle bypass a bit (I never tried that one but it should work) and my personal favorite.....switching to the z31 ecu. All your posts about the quirks and generally annoying behaviour of the stock electronics sums up why I switched. I was never able to get it to run to my satisfactioniin all situations.

My l28et ecu has 3 eproms. 2 for main code and 1 for Ram. It uses the same processor as the z31 ecu's. Easily programmable if one was inclined to do it. Airflow is calculated by voltages changing by arm moving across the tracks inside the afm. That together with air temp sensor is used to calculate air mass. And lastly rpm is thrown in to calculate load to output injection pulse and timing. Same idea done in a more crude way as the z31 ecu's. If you want to change your acceleration enrichment you need to figure out where the arm is at the load poiint you wish to adjust and solder in a potentiometer in place of the resisters on that track. With leads long enough to go into the car you can do it on the fly. Btw you could do this across the entire afm range. And I think Sleeper is nuts too. You can't adjust idle much at all as far as pw goes. The saving thing is they are usually set so lean to begin with you merely have to adjust the idle bypass a little and that's it. Adjustments on the afm spring on a dyno and you would have a pretty good fuel curve. You're right about the injection time. This is not the optimal setup but I think it's good for someone looking for more power and leaves a lot of growing room. I never tried a fmu so I can't honestly say how good it would work. It would seem to work as the stock ecu doesn't take afm reading into acount after about 4-4.2k. And it would be much easier to install the fmu then to change the injectors and tune it.

Either way you need a fuel pump. Mine wouldn't even support what the stock injectors could push.

OUCH All good points. Adjusting the afm is a proven method. If you don't want to mess with the afm then cut your bellows and install a piece of 3" pipe (on turbo side of afm) with a 1/2 inch o.d. elbow out the top with the outlet parallel to the bellows. Run the pipe out the front of the rad and install a filter on it. You are now tuned for 370's. You can mess with the timing if you want. Can't get much easier than that. And you should be able to find 370's for MUCH less than 200 bux. I think I paid 10 ea. for mine. That said I don't know how much power you could support with a fmu. With 370's you're good to about 370 hp or so at the stock fuel pressure. You could go quite a bit higher with a programmed eprom and higher base fuel pressure. What kind of fuel pressure would it take to support 370 hp with the 260cc injectors?

OUCH

Somebody sell me a set of those "460's". My Nissan ecu doesn't care if the injectors are big. It always runs nice. Guess I wouldn't need my 370's anymore. 8)

Good stuff.

525: cheapest is bypassing air for larger injectors and tuning with fuel pressure and base timing. if you want a piggyback check out the perfect power unit. you can tune spark as well. not sure on what the cost is. i haven't checked the website in a long time. fl327: you gonna tune that thing with the eprom? burners can be had cheap on ebay... did you set the timing back up a bit yet? that made the biggest difference in off boost power. somebody's gotta host sleeperz spreadsheet for the conversion. it makes the conversion soooooo easy.

it's inside the afm but unless someone has messed with it, you'll have to drill into the covering. i can't remember if it's plastic or has a metallic covering. i know it's round and if you're looking down at the afm it's on the lower right corner. it has a round ridge outline as well.......it's been so long since i've had an afm.

You go girl I did the maf pin change added a + and - to the coil and changed the fuel pump relay as per JWT. I ran the o2 sensor for a while but it runs better without it. Currently I run about 26-27* BTDC timing. My last setup had JWT code with the stock maf and 370cc squirters. I never did get to the track with that. I did manage a 12.978 with an 86 ecu with altered fuel+timing maps and about a 50% race gas mix. That was a one time best. The turbo is a 60 trim t04b compressor housing and the stock exhaust side run through a Starion Intercooler with modified inlet/outlet pipes. If you want to run a different Maf you'll first have to figure out how to change the minimum voltage allowable by the ecu. Stock voltage is around 2.2vdc or so. Any lower than that and it'll go into Limp mode. That applies to all the above maf's you mentioned. I tried it with the JWT code and it makes no difference. It's a hardware thing. I know where it is in my ecu but I haven't been able to alter it. I don't know if I'll bother as bypassing air will accomplish the same thing and I can retune the fuel/timing maps if it causes any problems. Sleeperz's setup is working quit nicely so I don't think it's a problem. I'm having a dilema (sp?) about if I should switch to megasquirt or continue down this road.

stick that big turbo in with some bigger squirters, bypass air to compensate for the big injectors and maybe start with the timing at 20*. this has been know to let the smoke out of the tires

adjusting teeth on th afm door will keep you leaner at toe-in and on throttle until the afm is maxed. you need to adjust the idle air screw out to allow it to bypass more air. the screw is probably covered with a black plastic round piece that needs to be drilled out (carefully). that will correct your idle. you should go to a dyno for the door adjustment

you need 3 points for easytherm right? 14f = 9k ohms 68f = 2.5k ohms 122f = .84k ohms those are the 3 points in the fsm that are noted on the curve. hope that helps. Bernard

no problem I'll pm when I get home from work. they're in the fsm if you've got one.

You're way ahead of me. I haven't time to do anything. The car is in the garage for the winter so I'll be next spring before it's on the road. I do have the parts except the hei module. I'll need your help to make this easier. Bernard

way to go