Connor280ZX

Other than the ArizonaZcar, and GrayTech spacer (Website broken), is there any other place I can find a TB spacer that is ported for use of the air regulator? One like the photo attached, which is Grays. Again, his website has been broken for months (I've been checking it every month or so to see if it starts working again), so he's probably defunct. '82 N/A. Any help is appreciated.

So, nearly a year later this issue still continues, BUT i have another clue. Look closely. See the fractures on the rotor? I'm pretty sure this has to do with the noise i'm hearing. I posted that on the 280ZX Drivers Facebook page, and the answers i am getting are a "Rattling Pad" Due to improper shimming or a dragging caliper (Both rears are rebuilt by P.O). Remember, i only hear the sound going over bumps, and under load uphill.

Alright, car is fixed! So basically, my IGN system required an E12-93, not an 80. Due to the fact that the knockoff ICM's arent made specific to the year of the car, i kept installing the wrong part/s unknowlingly. The module i installed would work on a 1980, but not my 1982. An E12-93 wouldn't work right an the 1980, but would work great on mine. Problem solved, however the tach was still going nuts. Coil was bad as well, so i reinstalled my old PS20 and now the car works perfectly. Yay!

I'd rather swap to a slightly free-er flowing manifold than spend nearly $500 for someone to port my only manifold, only mildly (1-1.5mm per runner). I'm not looking for huge gains, but just enough to get my car running low 14's. I am very limited with the stock EFI upon how much i can port. The problem is, i have no choice but to stick with the stock EMS in order to stay street legal (Cali Smog laws).

According to BRAAPS EFI Bible.

She runs pretty good, but still stock. Tweaked/tuned everything I could to squeeze every last bit of power out of the engine. Looking into putting a Turbo intake manifold on the car, shave the mount for the AACV, and mill/tap the plenum for the cold start valve. 6% more air than N/A manifold.

I don't think my car is equipped with water injection, lol. I can take a video of what the tach is doing if needed.

Here's the update: Just picked the car up from the shop. The mechanic replaced the ignition coil again, checked the magnetic pickup system in the dizzy, and installed a genuine E12-80. The car runs much better, but the tach is going absolutely nuts now. After 3k rpm, the tach does a FULL sweep, then drops to zero untill engine RPM comes down. What was wierd though is that i notice the tach drop when i pressed the prake pedal, and when i turned on my lights... This makes me think that there's definately some kind of electrical short somewhere. Taking the car back in next Thursday to continue diagnostics.

It WAS. A few miles later, and everything else i described started to occur. Going over the FSM now, you're right i did measure that wrong. Some website told me to do it the way i did (Was on my phone so no access to FSM files at the time), but i guess that doesn't matter since the coil(s) don't seem to be the problem as of now... No offense taken.

I put the '75 on just for a quick expiriment, i did not test it. Crane PS20 coil is what i tested, and what i used on the car for the past year and a half. I tested it by disconnecting everything, put one cable down the wire outlet, and the other on the positive terminal/pole of the coil. There is already a condenser in the coil harness, looks to be factory (Little silver cylinder with a wire running through it). What im working off of is that everything that is wrong with the car right now is all linked to one part/parts since they all started occuring at the exact same time. Jittery tach, sluggish performance, distributor advance and the heavy misfire all started occuring within maybe 10-20 miles on the ODO of eachother. I am 100% sure that it is all related. I just don't know what the hell is causing it.

Input circuitry of tach to my knowlege: Tachometer > Negative terminal on coil > ICM > Pickup coil. Ran some more tests, this time on the coil it self. It draws 0.25 ohms, which seemed low since the manf. claims it should output 1.4 ohms. Did a spark test, instead of blue spark, got orange spark which means weak spark. Led me to beleive that my coil was going out after all, so i replaced it and no difference. I am so stumped right now. I've replaced and tested everything electrical that has to do with spark, and the problem persists. BTW, i have to advance the dizzy ALL OF THE WAY to achieve even 9 BTDC. This whole situation is starting to seem supernatural...

Update: Found a thread on Zdriver where someone seemed to have a very similar problem, and it was his ignition pickup in the dizzy. I replaced that today and no difference. Still cuts out, tach still jumps around. I don't know what's left to replace.wiring is fine, coil has voltage, cap and rotor are fine... Tried two coils btw. Had a spare coil from a '75 280Z, ran even worse with that coil...

Bent the lines up to cross into the correct port, and unfortunately there is very little change in the pedal travel. The brakes come on maybe 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch sooner on pedal travel, but all else is the same. Bled through about a pint of fluid. When i had the MC out, i looked at my old one and the input does look slightly different, so i think thats probably my problem.

i doubt it. was pulling 14.2 volts. Alternator was replaced 2k miles ago as well

Update: car is dying. Now I am getting a heavy misfire under more than light acceleration.

Oh, right, should have structured that sentence better. A better example: Cruising, 4th gear at 2700 RPM, i'd let off the gas for a split second (without losing ANY speed) and this would occur. I'll check my wiring.

Alright, it's been a couple of days since I've installed the new new module, and the car is running very well. However, there's now a small issue. Whenever I let off of the gas when the car is moving, the tach needle jumps down, maybe 300-500 Rpm, but immediately recalibrates.

On this MC, The "R" is where "F" should be, and "F" is where "R" should be. A local Pick N Pull has a '70 with a grade "A" MC, so they say. They want $40 for it, i'm going to pick it up and hope it works alright.

You're exactly right, Tony. On the new MC, they are inverted completely. Front is "R" and rear is "F". Seller claims "Guarenteed to fit 70-71 Nissan 240Z" I wish my local autoparts stores carried these things so i could compare both in person. I'll just save up the $300 for an OEM one so i don't have this problem again.

Any popping/Backfiring in the intake? Any dark smoke from the exhaust?

Update: New booster, new master cyl, new rear wheel cylinders, a gallon brake fluid of bleeding, and no change. Still getting no resistance with a whoopie cusion sound, untill the pedal reaches the bottom, then the brakes grab... So im out of ideas. You guys have any?

If you plan to use a stock manifold, you will need to do alot of porting in the plenum neck, and intake runners. Otherwise that 70mm TB will be pretty much useless.

Of course I have ran some tests. Checked resistance of the unit, coil and voltage at coil. Not to mention that I have tried switching out the coils. I don't like the idea of wiring up an aftermarket IGN system on my daily driver, so I bought a direct replacement.

Alright then. I have a new module on the way, this time not Chinese made and with a one year warranty. Thanks for the help, all.

As far as i know, the tach signal comes from the ICM, and the tach has influence on the ECU or something. Correct me if i'm wrong.