74_5.0L_Z

You don't really need the brake line differential pressure warning switch. It does function as a decent junction block. You are also likely to want an adjustable proportioning valve instead of the stock unit unless you plan to run stock brakes.

Those struts look really long. How much can they be shortened and still maintain sufficient travel?

When I installed my small block Ford in my car there wasn't a kit available to mount the engine and transmission. So, like you, I had to figure it out on my own. A particular challenge with these cars is that they are small and you will end up with a very short drive shaft. Because of that we have to pay particularly close attention to driveshaft angles. We need the axis of the engine to be parallel to the pinion axis, and to keep the u-joint angles as low as possible. If you don't do these things you will have drive line vibration that will make the car very unpleasant to drive at high speed.

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like you could lower the engine quite a bit if you used a remote oil filter.

I don't know how you have the engine placed, but I would offset the engine about 1 inch toward the passenger side. The drive shaft angle is easier to minimize with the engine shifted in-line with the pinion. This also makes the weight distribution a little better when you are in the car.

This is the only picture that I could find of the car with the 16x8 wheels and stock bodywork:

I'm currently running 15x10 wheels with a 5.25" backspace on all four corners. I use 23.0x10.5-15 Avon Slicks or Hoosier 275/35-15 tires on all four corners. I run a 1/4" spacer on the front and it just barely clears my coilovers. No spacer on rear, and I have at least a 1/2 clearance to the strut. I have a modified version of the SubtleZ body on my car which provides an extra 1.5 of clearance at all four corners. Below are some pictures with the 15x10s and SubtleZ kit.

When I was running the stock bodywork I used to run 16x8 with a 5" backspace. I could fit 245/45-16 under the rear and 225/45-16 under the front without rubbing. Availability of 16 inch is an issue these days. Research tire availability before committing to running 16" wheels.

Just looking at the picture that you posted of your steering shaft, it looks like the u-joints aren't phased correctly. It may be an optical illusion from the angle of the picture.

When are you hoping to get this car on track? I'm hoping to do an SCCA track day at Sebring in February. It would be nice to see you guys there.

I like the external slave cylinder. You may have to clearance the driveshaft tunnel a bit, and it will create another obstacle to routing headers. I'm using a Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing. Works great and doesn't take up space in the driveshaft tunnel. The downside is that if it leaks then you have to remove the transmission to fix it...

They are Spinwerkes series 82. Unfortunately they are no longer available. I bought them around 2007. 15x10 and weigh 12 lbs

The two areas "1" are a great place to attach tow hooks.

Hopefully you are converting to all SAE / AN brake fittings. It's a real pain to have a mix of metric and SAE. I routed my brake lines inside the cabin to get the brake lines away from heat. I'm running a Wilwood Tandem Master Cylinder (7/8" bore) and use a proportioning valve installed on the drive shaft tunnel.

That is an interesting master cylinder set-up. I haven't seen that before. I assume that you will be running all new brake lines.