brokebolt

I e-mailed SSS510 a few times, he did mention cutting and trimming the tunnel, that made me think twice. The concept sounds dynomite though, if anyone does this conversion, it sure would be nice to get a detailed description for future project seekers. Does the T-56 mate up to the stock T-5 Nissan bell housing or would that need to be a custom job like Mr. SSS510's? Mike

Go here for a nice pic http://hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20387 This is a VLSD unit with side stubs, all VLSD units are alike and use the same side stubs. Don't know where you can get NEW ones but used might be found at recycle yards, rare but they do exist. Use the national parts locator service, most machine shops and recycle yards should be helpful for this. Mike

I have a VLSD from a Z32 and had a VLSD from this year car your questioning, both are the same. The differential stubs on the Z32 has one short and one long, and bolt on like the 240sx but they have five bolt pattern not the six bolts that the 240sx uses. The 1988zxt ss uses the same cv EXCEPT for the right side (or maybe the left don't recall off hand) as the other variety of half shaft, and again that odd ball longer splined end is opposite of it. Don't know if they are available, if so maybe only a dealer item, as I have tried to find a supplier for the half shafts with no sucess. Hope this helps. Mike

Here is an exert from my notes, hope it helps with the swap question. As for the durability, the R-200 is roughly the same dimentions as a Dana 44, which a lot of 4X4 guys are using in their Jeeps and such. Not a Dana 60 but than again you can fit the entire R-200 ring gear into the Dana 60 ring gear. Some guy here on this board has a mount that fits the R230 inplace of the R-200. The "guts" are the same, only the case is a little larger, actually more squattier, and they used a different ring gear and pinion gear. It has a shorter snout that the R-180 and R-200. The guts usually get torn up before the case does, so in my opinion the case is not that large of a consideration. Parts Swappin’: R-200: The R-180 to R-200 swap is fairly straight forward for 240 Z’s. First get the parts together, R-200 with selected rear end gear ratio, 240 Z drive line, transmission of selected year for ratios, R-200 mustache bar, R-200 rear transverse link, stock 1970-78 Z U-joint half shafts with R-200 side flange. Now install the R-200 mustache bar so the bar is behind the transverse link vertical support on 1972-78 models. All R-180 mustache bars are mounted in front of the transverse link vertical supports. Doing this may require a bit of angling it around and cursing but it should fit without removing the fuel tank strap. Next install the R-200 rear transverse link support in it’s stock location with bend facing the rear of the car. Now install the front isolator mount, R-180 and R-200 are the same and now your new R-200 should bolt up with out any other issue. If you use a 5-speed or 4-speed, you can use your stock 240 drive line without modifying it at all and this drive line has serviceable U-joionts too boot. I ran a 1977 280 Z 5-speed, 1977 280 Z R-200, stock 1973 240 Z drive line, and stock 1973 240 Z U-joint half shafts for years without problems on a 3.1 L motor that was camed and stock twin SU’s. Mike

Go here for some good general information. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm An open differential has one tire called the "drive tire". In short, moving forward is accomplished by the left tire turning as result of the right tire not being able to spin the in the reverse direction. The drive tire will always have the spider gear that turns in the direction of the carier and the opposite tire will have to spin the reverse direction as the carrier to accomplish slipping (turning a corner for example). Hope this helps. Mike This is why you often only get the left tire to "light up", resulting in smoke and all that fun stuff.

Don't mean to step on toes, but if you look at my album you will see the VLSD and LSD still in the R-200. Note that they look very similiar in shape and size. As I stated both have the finned rear cover, and I'm sure as this topic has been covered before so have others stated the same. With differential out of the car (the part being on the shelf of some guys garage or recycle yard) a quick glance at the R-200 the only real noticable difference is the casting shape of the carrier. If the end opposite of the ring gear is squared off (but not a hard 90 degree angle) than it is LSD if it is more rounded than it is VLSD. No other marking that I am aware of. The open differential is easy to spot, four spider gears clearly visable and nothing else. Haven't seen a Helical drive but I don't think I would be comming accross one anytime soon. But if so I'll post pics. Mike

Yes it will fit, and do remember that speedo pinion as stated earler. On a side note, a good idea is to get a note book to list parts that you have changed and list new parts installed. List new make, model year and miles as well as dates of swap. This will alow you to keep better records for service reasons and make parts purchaseing easier. My old heap has parts ranging from 1970-89. Lot's of parts are interchangable but some are specific to year and model. Just my $0.02. Mike

The R-200 mustache bar was no longer used after the 280Z in 1978. It used a different bushing mount, the original mustache bar looks more stable in my opionion. If you need an R-200 mustache bar I have a few in my pile or parts, just let me know. Mike

Log into my personal album, I have posted a few pics of interest concerning the VLSD and LSD unit. Both came stock with the finned rear cover, Nissan motorsports catalog has a good picture. This cover is available from motorsports as are the LSD units. As others have stated, rear end gear ratio should be 3.700 with a stamp on the ring and pinion that reads 37:10, and a bunch of other stuff as well. The transmission speedometer pinion gear should be blue in color and have a tooth count of 18, on all 300ZX 1984-89. Only the 1987-89 300ZXT has the LSD units and the 1988 white colored car model SS used a VLSD. If you pull the VLSD unit GET THE CV SHAFTS. This unit used a very special shaft to connect the Viscous clutch from left to right, I have pics of that as well in my album. If you pull the LSD unit no issues on the input shafts, as they are the same as everyother carrier made by Nissan for the R-200 that I can recall. Hope this helps. Mike

240Z Turbo, Thanks for the response with descriptions and part numbers. This make the process of understanding much easier, and easier in trying to find parts and assemble. Your aces in my book. 11.2 @130 ehh, buddies BBC in a Chevelle had trouble mustering 13 flat @110 in the quater, your stuff must be dialed in. Mike

The recommended welding class at a local community college is good advice. Reading about the techniques is good but until you are in an enviroment that you can practice them your still in a green situation. You can mig SS (GMAW) and get same results as solid wire steel. There are advantages to SS but usually cost is greater. If you do use SS use solid wire with a sutable gas, as SS flux cored wire is about 100 times greater in cost. Mike

Welders are like fine German sports cars, the more you spend the more you get. Look at what you intend on welding, tubeing for exhaust and small hobby stuff...or structural H-beams. Sure you can spend the cash and get a good Tig unit or multi-process unit from any of the big names. My angle is this, if your only concern is basic hobby stuff look at the CHEAP harbor-frieght.com welders. Most units from Chicago Electric will run you under $300.00 and allow wire of 0.035 solid or flux cored. Wire is the best for fast fab and you'll get enough penetration for tube and such. The duty cycle is only 10% at best and you pay for duty cycle. I have a 250 lincwelder that I use at work (it has to be older than my father) and the duty cycle is only rated at: 140 amps 100%, 200 amps 50%, and 250 amps 30%. The cost vs. benifit factor should allow the H-F unit to run for several years without fault. I use one for tacking and small quick jobs. Just one mans opinion. Mike

I understand where we are loosing communication. I am describing the CV bolt pattern as 4-bolt and you are addressing the companion flange as 4-bolt pattern. The adapter your selling pictured on your website shows a six bolt pattern CV. The VLSD companion flange uses a reverse of what is pictured where the circle is on the inside not the outside so custom machining "could" be the solution. It would need to look something resembleing the stock companion flange. You state that others have used this unit on VLSD and had no issues? Ok this is them here. Mike I'm assuming that this pic is just a red circle and an X in it, I have this image linked from my album. You should be able to view it their, I hope. Mike

The 300ZXT is a ball and cage and yes it is stronger. The 300ZXT CV's I have on the bench are same length (roughly) as the 280ZXT tripod shafts. Don't know about the N/A 300ZX stuff. Mike

Length is good but the bolt pattern is different on the other R-200 CV's verses the VLSD version. Does your bolt-on bad boy adapt a four bolt pattern if so than no issues. All other Nissan CV's of this vintage I've seen use a six bolt pattern, grouped in three sets of two. Again, thanks for responding Ross. Mike

Seen them bad boys, I was hoping you had a toy up your sleeve you hadn't unvailed yet. The issue with useing those units is that the differential/CV combo uses a differenet spline pattern on the clip and one is longer by a lot. The companion side is a four bolt pattern that surounds a circle. I was looking into using the Z32 differential stub axles and my old U-joint half shafts with an adapter plate on the differential side. If I could post pics (don't know how) I would put one up that looked real nice. Thanks for the info and help in this matter. I guess I will attempt to contact James and see if he is willing to share his findings as Joel stated. Mike

Ross, Maybe I'm dumb as a post but I am confused. What is the part you are addressing? Does it mount the old U-joint halfshafts to the differential??? That was an other option I was considering...although not the end result I was looking for or wanting. Easy enough to have a plate made that would adapt the old fourbolt halfshaft with u-joints to the five bolt differential stub like that used on the 240SX. Haven't looked into it too much for dimentions I really would like to use the CV shaft rather than a U-joint. Mike

Thinking about what I have written, "Now the dirve shaft is the 280ZXT shaft and at the other end use the 1984-89 Eagle 6 cylinder spider assembly in the 280ZXT slide joint housing". I would assume I am wrong, and that you need the 1984-89 Eagle shaft not the 280ZXT else why would you be concerned with the other side of the CV. Looks like more parts hunting for me. Mike

Joel, I've seen James 240TT page that describes the conversion you speak of, I'm a bit confused :. As far as I can understand you use the 300ZXT double offset-Birfield joint assembly on the differential side. Then you use the inner race that has splines for the drive shaft from a 1984-86 Eagle 6 cylinder, and using the remainder from the 300ZXT differential joint, assemble as normal. Now the dirve shaft is the 280ZXT shaft and at the other end use the 1984-89 Eagle 6 cylinder spider assembly in the 280ZXT slide joint housing. Do I have this correct? Mike

SSS510 you are my new hero. Always like the 510's, wishin' I had a 510 like yours. Big bore, Nitrous, Turbo, T-56, all in a 510...sounds like a weekend full of fun!!! Mike

Here is the rest of the Port list, note that Port C is Ross C's converstion so no need to print that. Small Rear Disk Brake Conversion 280ZX 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port D Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1982-83 Nissan 280ZX rear caliper and hangers 1982-83 Nissan 280ZX rear rotor 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1980-84 Nissan 810 Nissan Maxima Sedan rear brackets that have the floating dust shield No E-Brake extension available after market but they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. Bone Stock Small Rear Disk Conversion Maxima 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port E Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX rear brake calipers and hangers 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1980-84 Nissan 810 Maxima Sedan rear brackets that have the screwed-on dust shield E-brake extension is available after market and they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. One add on, if you use the S13WB caliper with it's stock pads you will need to remove the outboard pads wear sensor with a grinder. You can use the S12W pads without modifiying them as they are the exact same pads except for the outboard pad wear sensor. Enjoy! Mike

Concerns to my earlier post, this brake info is only for the 1970-78 Z car and does not apply to the 79 and later...I sometimes forget that they made other varieties of Z's. Port B: The original written version did not include the OR so you are correct that if you use the 1986-88 Toyota pick-up caliper and 1984-85 300zx rotor you will have spacers and hub issues. The original Port B only inlucded the 1979-84 Toyota pick-up caliper which is not used with the larger vented rotor. If you use the existing stock 1970-78 Z rotors and hubs requardless of what year car you have you will have no issues with the offset (as I call it). All 1970-78 Z cars used the same front caliper and the part number reflects this. Only with the later vented rotor and caliper do you need to have concern for the year of car. Thanks for noteing that for me, I will make the neccessary corrections to avoid any confusion in the future. As for the 10.5 mm bolt holes, a hand held drill in the garage is not easy to get precision results. As I assume anyone attempting to make them would be useing such tools. Wheel clearance it's easy to determine: First you need to measure the inset of the wheel caliper area (as I call it). This is the area of the wheel where the caliper exists when the wheel is bolted onto the front hub. Using a small steel ruler, lay the ruler over the backside of the wheel on the hub area. Using a second steel ruler measure the distance from the wheel to the wheel. Mine are older than dirt 'appliance' wheels from the 70's era which measure 9 mm. One peice of information not included is that the stock caliper is even with the hub so all protrution measurements are stickout beyond the hub. Now use the Port listing you can see what depth over stock is required: S12W=20 mm S13WB=28 mm S12+8 solid rotor=8 mm S12+8 vented rotor=20 mm Wheel depth minus caliper protrution equals clearance. 9 mm - 8 mm = 1 mm So you can see that the largest caliper I can use is the S12+8 solid rotor caliper with 1mm of clearance. OUCH!!! That is close!!! With the addition of a 1/4" wheel spacer you only gain 6.35 mm. 9 mm + 6.35 mm = 15.35 mm so even with a 1/4" spacer I can only run the S12+8 solid rotor...Unless I modify the wheel and/or caliper. I hope that this helps, a bit confuseing but I have pics to demonstrate what this mess is trying to convey. Mike

This is what I have been passing around from my notes. Your asking about Port B just note the OR and the years as they are different. Large Four Piston Front Brakes with Vented Rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port A Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan and Toyota parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1970-73 Nissan Z hubs 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1984-85 Nissan 300ZX front rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern 1988-92 Toyota 4X4 V6 pickup front calipers marked ‘S12W’ OR 1995-00 Toyota 4-Runner 4X4 V6 front calipers marked ‘S13WB’ Eight bolts grade 10.9, 8 X 1.25 thread diameter and pitch 40 mm long with lock washers Two metal spacer as listed below; O.D. 155 mm I.D. 81 mm Thickness 17 mm Four 10.5 mm holes spaced 4 1/16†equidistance The front dust shield must be trimmed to accommodate the larger caliper or they will rub and wheel clearance is an issue with older rear wheel drive wheels, the caliper has a protrusion of about 20 mm over stock using the ‘S12W’ version and 28 mm over stock using the ‘S13WB’ version. You can use your old brake lines if you gently bend them to fit, just make sure they don’t touch or they will rub a hole in the brake lines. Small Four Piston Front Brakes with Solid or Vented Rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port B Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan and Toyota parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1970-78 Nissan Z hubs 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1970-78 Nissan Z rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern 1979-85 Toyota 4X4 4 cylinder pickup with solid rotor, front calipers marked ‘S12+8’ OR 1986-88 Toyota 4X4 4 cylinder pickup with vented rotor, front calipers marked ‘S12+8’ 1984-85 Nissan 300ZX front rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern Eight bolts grade 10.9, 8 X 1.25 thread diameter and pitch 40 mm long with lock washers Two metal spacer as listed below; O.D. 155 mm I.D. 81 mm Thickness 17 mm Four 10.5 mm holes spaced 4 1/16†equidistance The front dust shield must be trimmed to accommodate the larger caliper or they will rub and wheel clearance is an issue with older rear wheel drive wheels, the caliper has a protrusion of about 8 mm over stock using the solid rotor version and 20 mm over stock using the vented rotor version. You can use your old brake lines if you gently bend them to fit, just make sure they don’t touch or they will rub a hole in the brake lines. I've had a few spacers made but the cost is just about what you can buy them aftermarket, I would recommend the aftermarket route to anyone doing this conversion using the spacer. It's much easier and faster. Hope this helps. Mike

500ish...I would consider it if the price was $500.00 plus shipping and taxes, my only real concern is how payment is made and to whom. Never done one of these "group buys" before. Just looking to cover my you know what. Mike

Greg, Thanks for the info. Mike