brokebolt

I agree that 650 is to large a carb for a stock or slighly modified in-line 6. SU's are an excellent choice for performance, reliability, fuel economy, and easy to tune. Down drafts take a bit more knowledge and parts to tune but don't discredit them. I have used every type of N/A induction and I do like the SU best for the reasons listed above. If your a quality tunner of downdrafts or know someone that is, you can get a set up for about $600.00 (last time I looked) using new parts, or online auctions sometimes sells good quality stuff at a cheaper price too. Mike Just checked, prices are lower than I thought, $500.00 at AZCAR.

To my knowledge (varify this with Ross C. HE is the real expert on this hub brackets!) the MM hub bracket uses the 240SX caliper and caliper hanger and the 1984-85 300ZX rear solid rotor. The 240SX/810/200SX/280ZX rear solid rotor can be used with the 810 Maxima bracket wtih the floating dust shield. The 810 Maxima hub bracket that has the screwed on dust shield uses a larger, different, caliper and it also uses a smaller brake pad. I would suggest not using the larger version caliper unless that is what you have available. No big deal which one you use but for the price of parts, might as well use the "better" of the stock parts. If your really looking for clamping force (race or you have money to spend) see Arizona Z, he has large brakes for better stopping, never used them but they look good on this website. There are others as well as I'm sure MM (and others that frequent here) sells similiar stuff. Mike

Here is a link to a similiar discussion. All the way down on the first page I have listed my Port listing. Please read all the information including that on the second page as there is information posted to correct things from the first page. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19020&highlight= Also the 1984-85 300ZX rear rotor and any caliper (240SX or 280ZX) will not fit a 14" wheel, well non that I have seen. But the 810 Maxima hub bracket 1980-84 (not on every car) with the 280ZX/200SX/810 (810 RWD for the caliper and hanger as the FWD is different) caliper and caliper hanger will fit nicely on the 14" wheel. You need a 15" or larger wheel to fit the larger brakes. I'm sure you could get better rear set up using WilWood or someother aftermarket caliper, but you would need to make a hub bracket or have one made. I used to make stuff like this using the 810 FWD rear hub bracket as the basic platform, so anything is possible if it can be imagined. There was a member here that made this own rear hub brackets from scratch that used the 280 caliper, and I've seen the early 280 caliper used with a custom bracket. The 810 also used this caliper to be aware of the two different rotors, calipers, and hub brackets that the 810 used. Easy to tell which one is which, one is very large and used small pads, second and better is smaller and used the larger pad, same pad as the 280ZX/200SX/810/240SX. Best of luck, Mike.

The 240SX rotors will not work with the MM set up for the 240SX caliper and caliper hanger (to my knowledge, contact MM for verification on this) but they will work with the 810 Maxima stock rear hub bracket. MM uses the 1984-85 300ZX N/A rear rotor. Avoid the turbo of that make and year as it is 5 X 4.5" lug not the 4 X 4.5" that the others stated here use. Mike

Same bolt pattern as Z cars (4 X 4.5"), the 240 SX does fit. Also the 200sx four lug fits as do many other nissan four bolt rear rotors. Mike

Motorsports Dynamic in Sacramento Ca. also sells that stuff. Look for a local super shop and tell them your interested in the import market aftermarket parts. They should be able to get the parts or tell you who they know that specializes in them. Mike

Go here, http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/index.html This guy has done his homework, he hangs out here too. The tech drawing is a bit complex for the average garage mehanic but rock solid info. I've done it and like it. I do think that you can use the 1980-84 Maxima companion flange from any RWD car in place of the 280ZXT ones, but not 100% as I have only handled them and never installed them. Mike

Mesure the distance from the MC flange to the furthest point of the piston rod on the original MC and piston rod, than do the same on the new MC using the piston rod you intend on using. Set the length of rod same as first measurement. It doesn't matter if it is a larger unit or just a stock replacement this, procedure needs to be done on every unit you install. Mike

Here is link to a post I've posted a while back. http://hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=140795&highlight=#140795 As for this problem you face you need to readjust the piston rod that is between the MC and the Booster. The MC has a different flange thickness and the tappered cone that the piston drives is also different. Best of luck. Mike

Yes you can swap R-200 ring and pinion gears and cariers around. The only issue is the ring gear bolt size (others do apply). Most pre-1984 stuff is 10mm bolt where as the later is 12mm, for the Z anyway. The later version of the R-200 with the short snout used different tooth count so they are not innerchangable, but you would only want to use a matched set anyway. Installation isn't as bad as one would think. Much like installing engine bearings. You need a magnetic base and dial indicator and some Dyechem or other wipe removal agent to get the ring gear mesh with the pinion gear correctly. Same stuff you would use to get a wipe pattern on the cam follower. For what you want I'm guessing your going to need bushings for the bolts. Any machinist can make those items and MM has told me they can be done. I have also heard that the ring gear can be bored and taped to the larger bolt. Mike

Jeg's advertises them in their catalog. Can't comment on the performance thought. Summit may sell them as well, don't know for sure. Mike

As Mobythevan has shown with his pics and others have stated like zxgt-4, the actual shafts of the R-180 and R-200 are the same but only if the bolt on type is used. Thanks for the pics greimann, if you start getting into the R-180 wtith the bolt on side yoke that this is another issue and, as stated the splines are not the same between the r-180 and R-200. But again if you have the side yoke R-180 best bet to get the half-shafts from the donor R-200, or at the vary least the side flange of the half-shaft. Mike

The c-clip should be inside the differential on the side gear. Only the VLSD is an exception to that. The differential innner stubs should have a ring cut in the shaft for accept the c-clip. As for the one side not comming out, I've had one that the differentail inner stud welded itself to the thrust block that is on the pinion shaft. I was assuming the guy was roasting the tires as it was the passenger side in an open differential carrier. Mike

The R-230 can fit or so I've read on this site. The little orange sticker does exist on the VLSD unit in a 1990 300ZX that I found but the 1987 300ZXT did not have this as it was a LSD. Go here for a brake discussion. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19020&highlight= Mike

I use a sythetic 85W-90. Many may have issues with that but a tranny is a different animal. The syncros like light oil where the gears like heavy oil. The bearings are fickle too, they don't get any oil if the oil is to heavy and if the oil is too light not enough lubricaiton. Just my $0.02. Mike

I think the 300ZX is a VLSD not the LSD. I think the 300ZXT used the LSD but not 100% sure. The differences is the shafts betweent he VLSD and the LSD as far as install goes. Both should be for a 12mm or 13mm ring gear bolt but they will bolt on a R-200 10mm ring gear bolt with bushings that you can get from either MM or your local machinist. Go here for a view of the shafts. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20563 You can make the VLSD work in the R-200 case but you will need to get the CV's customized or find some other solution. Like a plate mounted to the inner stub and then bolt on your old U-joint half shaft. I prefer the LSD as it is almost bolt on and go. You only have the issue of the 10mm, 12mm, or 13mm bolt on the ring gear to address there. Easy enough with bushings if your using a 10mm ring gear. The Brakes are another issue. I have looked into this BREIFLY and the gains on the brakes are not that much more than the 280ZX stuff. The pad is larger on the 300ZX but not much larger than the 280ZX/Maxima/200SX and others. The 300ZX is twin piston, where the others are single but if your looking to upgrade and get nasty in the rear, get a set of four pistons for the rear on 13" rotors. Also you will still need the E-brake assembly, WilWood sells a nice cheap guy that you could get to work. The effort will be about the same for the stock Nissan stuff as aftermarket 13" stuff. The only difference is the price...the 13" is going to cost a lot more. As for the fronts, you didn't say if they were included or not but they are the same pad as the Toyota upgrade (they even fit the caliper body) and the Toyota is bolt on where the Nissan requires a custom plate. They both are four piston and the Nissan's are cast aluminum were the Toyota's stuff is cast iron so you have advantages with that too For the cost of $400.00 it isn't bad but you may want to consider the effort needed on both the brakes and VLSD carrier. Mike

Go here: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19471&highlight=vlsd Note the spline area on the shaft. Only the VLSD uses this shaft. If you get a LSD (clutch pack version) you will be able to install it with out issue period! If you use a 4.11 R-200 form the 200SXT you will only need to switch the stock differential inner stubs only for this to work. The drive mechanizm is broken into Five basic parts. First the Differential Inner Stub, second the CV or U-joint Half-Shaft, thirdly the Companion Flange, fourth the Stub Axle, and the most important the Third Member or differential. As for using the CV's you will need to adapt it to the companion flange so see MM for this or your local machinist. Mike

An R-200 has many internal options. Ratio for staters; and the LSD issue you have options here too, LSD, VLSD or HLSD. The drive shafts will almost all be able to be adapted to the Z car without issues with the right custom parts. As for the carrier and ring gear be aware of the 10mm or 12mm bolt size. If you mix them up you 'can' solve this rather easily. Both the ring and pinion are stamped so get the matched set. Check out MM as stated for ideas on brakes but there is a post on the brake forum that lays out my Port list. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19020&highlight= If you don't have luck at the yards or swap meet, I have a few items that may interest you under buy, sell, trade on this site. Mike Can't blame me for trying to move some parts can ya?

Real common ratios are: 300ZX 84-86 3.700 12 mm R200 300ZX 84-86 Turbo 3.545 12 mm R200 300ZX 87-89 3.900 12 mm R200 300ZX 87-89 Turbo 3.700 12 mm R200 I like lots of bottom end power, ya know 0-80 shots getten on the freeway and such. I do beleive that the CV are close to the design of the 240sx but not 100% sure. I am looking into this conversion too. I'll share any info I have but as of yet no luck on the nitty gritty; guess it's time to get dirty and gain some knowledge. Oh I dropped out of the bidding when the cost was more than my weekly salary. I'm a cheap SOB I guess! Mike

The pattern is a bit goofy but they should fit. All the VLSD shafts I've seen have the splines cut all the way along the shaft. Looks like those were machined excessively for no real gain. If you look into the carrier on the passenger side you will see that the splines have a "dead" spot where the unsplined portion of that shaft would be when installed. Have you worked out a solution to install CV on the ends of those differential stub shafts? Would be interesting to see what comes out of this. Mike

I've seen a post or two on this topic: http://hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19426&highlight=lsd As stated in the topic above, the unit you out bid me on is the 30 spline version. You will need to find some S15 shafts or have input shafts made as your stuff is 29 spline, and everyone elses. This unit should bolt into a R-200 easily enough and you will need to use a 12mm bolt ring gear. The other option is have bushings made or find some so that this carrier will work with the 10mm ring gear bolt. I got pricing from MM and was considering the bushing method but decided against it. Keep us posted on your findings about the spline issue and R-200 transplant, well I would be interested to see what comes out. Side note: The VLSD input shafts are different in length but not in spline count. All R-200 stuff is 29 spline count. The difference between the LSD and/or open carrier vs. the VLSD is the length of the differential stub shafts. The passenger side is long where as the drivers side is shorter and a bit different. All LSD and/or open carrier units use the same pattern on the differential stub shafts. On those units the passenger side is longer and the drivers side is shorter. The 200SXT is reversed with the 4.11 ring and pinion. The longer side is on the passenger side and the shorter one is on the drivers side. Mike

Rear five lug is not such a bolt on item, there are ways to do it though. Easiest is have the old five lub stub axle modified to five lug. MM does this work or you may find a machinest that is willing to do the work for you. You could machine the five lug stub axle to fit the four lug bearings but the stub axle is hardened steel so you may have issues with that. Also the companion flange spline pattern may be different. Some here have posted solution on the five lug conversion you may want to do a search and see what you can find. As for the LSD, swapping the guts I think is easiest. If you go and buy an LSD that is what you would have to do anyway. There is no difference between the carrier and the LSD as far as dimentional measurements, bearing diameter and ring gear dimentions for example. The only difference is in the ring gear bolt size and the hole for the bolts, either 10mm or 12mm bolts are used to attache the ring gear to the carrier. Again if you run into this 12mm carrier with 10mm ring gear get some bushings made. Anything after 1984 in the Z car version is 12mm and 1986 in other Nissan products (that I've seen).The only other consideration is the ratio which hasen't been addressed here yet. Ratio Stamp Speedo Gear Tooth count R-200 3.364 37:11 Yellow 16 280Z 2+2 (4 sp) 3.545 39:11 Black 17 280Z (M) 3.700 37:10 Blue 18 280ZX 6/78-6/79 2+2 (M) 3.900 39:10 White 19 280ZX (M) 80-83 200SXT 84 4.111 37:9 Red 20 200SXT 85-86 Hope this helps a bit, not 100% complete but a good start. Mike

I've e-mailed Tim concerning his adpaters, a group buy would be the way to go. As for the other issue of welding, I like to modify or make cheap items to adapt stock parts. Just one mans opinion. Mike

My take is this, pull your guts out of the R-200 you are currently running and install the LSD unit from the R-200 300ZX. This would eliminate the need for major mod work. Using a five point scale determination of difficulty, personnaly I would rank this level of mod that top fuel ZX lists as difficult (4) as it requires more than a basic set of hand tools, but requires drilling, presicion measuring, welding, and such. For his skill level that may be medium (3 or 2) for the rest of us bone heads that is would be much higher. Your R-200 ring gear is most likely a 10mm bolt where as the 300ZX is 12mm. Contact MM for bushing or your local machists, for installig the LSD carrier with the smaller bolt hole ring gear. Installing the LSD carrier would be in the medium to moderate range (2 or 3) as you do need to set the gear backlash and bearing preload, which requires a dial indicator and magnetic base. Still not easy. BUT what is easy is taking both differentials to your local differential shop and pay them to do the hard work, leaving the easy work for you...Remove, replace, and reinstall. Mike

Again looks good. I posted a few pics in my album here. Mine might be overkill but I was concerned about strieght. I needed a firm platform to mount fuel pump, filters, and exhaust pipe as my original one was modified for such items. 80 M.P.H., twin 2.5" pipe, 2" lowered car, 14" wheels on 60 series tires doesn't leave much room for rodents. I am always draggin' pipe! Had to weld skid plates on the bottom of the pipe, believe it or not! Mike