brokebolt

Here is more information from my notes. 4X4 and V6 DO play a factor but only on the 1975-85 and 1986-88 S12+8 caliper. Those years use either a vented or solid rotor so they have different dimentions for the rotor to fit though the caliper. As long as the rotor does not rub on the rotor I see no issues. By the way FIF is Female Inverted Flare and the other stuff is 10 mm shank with 1.0mm thread pitch. The protrusion over stock is the distance of stick out of the caliper from the stock mounting location. S12+8 Toyota 1979-85 Pickup 4X4, Solid cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 96 mm. S12+8 Toyota 1986-88 Pickup 4X4, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 108 mm. S12W Toyota 1988-92 Pickup 4X4 V6, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 118 mm. S12+8 Toyota 1989-91 4-Runner 4X4, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 108 mm. S12W Toyota 1992-95 4-Runner 4X4 V6, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 118 mm. S13WB Toyota 1993-98 T-100 4X4, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 116 mm. S13WB Toyota 1995-00 4-Runner 4X4 V6, Vented cast rotor, infeed FIF 10X1.0 mm, protrusion over stock 116 mm. Mike

Ya, I really should have addressed the sway bar issue. I didn't not have any issues with the sway bar clearing the new joints and companion flanges. My 1973 has sway bar mounts that go under the front side of the car, under the drive line but on top of the exhaust pipes. I've only seen in pictures the sway bar that goes to the rear of the differential. I don't see why there would be clearance issues but than again I haven't seen this type of mount in person. If clearance is an issue maybe using shorter rod end linkage on the sway bar to transverse links. This would shorted the distance from the sway bar end to the transverse link. Hopfully lowering the end enough to clear the CV assy. Again best of luck on this. Mike

I did the stock parts mod version. I had the same issue with the shaft not compressing enough to get them installed. Do this, unbolt the transverse link from the transverse link supports. You may need/want to do the front and rear this makes it a bit easier. Next install the correct shaft with the correst side. After everything is bolted together on the CV than bolt the transverse link supports back on to the bottom of the car. Best of luck on the conversion. Mike

Hey that looks pretty cool, A lot of work though. I removed the rubber and welded in solid plate (0.5" mild steel plate) to take up the space where the rubber used to be. Haven't had any issues yet, been running them for 10 years now. Did the same on the tranny. Mike

Ever consider selling your stuff, or do you already do this and I am just not "in the loop". Be nice to see some pics for others to drool over (well me), I too am a bit handy with a stinger, not so much on Aluminium as what I assume your creation would be made from. Mike

I've considered turboing my trippple Dellorto DHLA 40's. Where are you looking to get your plenum and tubo parts from? Might be better to use 44 Mikuni or 48 Dellortos but I got extra parts laying around so might make a turbo set up. Mike

I agree that 650 is to large a carb for a stock or slighly modified in-line 6. SU's are an excellent choice for performance, reliability, fuel economy, and easy to tune. Down drafts take a bit more knowledge and parts to tune but don't discredit them. I have used every type of N/A induction and I do like the SU best for the reasons listed above. If your a quality tunner of downdrafts or know someone that is, you can get a set up for about $600.00 (last time I looked) using new parts, or online auctions sometimes sells good quality stuff at a cheaper price too. Mike Just checked, prices are lower than I thought, $500.00 at AZCAR.

To my knowledge (varify this with Ross C. HE is the real expert on this hub brackets!) the MM hub bracket uses the 240SX caliper and caliper hanger and the 1984-85 300ZX rear solid rotor. The 240SX/810/200SX/280ZX rear solid rotor can be used with the 810 Maxima bracket wtih the floating dust shield. The 810 Maxima hub bracket that has the screwed on dust shield uses a larger, different, caliper and it also uses a smaller brake pad. I would suggest not using the larger version caliper unless that is what you have available. No big deal which one you use but for the price of parts, might as well use the "better" of the stock parts. If your really looking for clamping force (race or you have money to spend) see Arizona Z, he has large brakes for better stopping, never used them but they look good on this website. There are others as well as I'm sure MM (and others that frequent here) sells similiar stuff. Mike

Here is a link to a similiar discussion. All the way down on the first page I have listed my Port listing. Please read all the information including that on the second page as there is information posted to correct things from the first page. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19020&highlight= Also the 1984-85 300ZX rear rotor and any caliper (240SX or 280ZX) will not fit a 14" wheel, well non that I have seen. But the 810 Maxima hub bracket 1980-84 (not on every car) with the 280ZX/200SX/810 (810 RWD for the caliper and hanger as the FWD is different) caliper and caliper hanger will fit nicely on the 14" wheel. You need a 15" or larger wheel to fit the larger brakes. I'm sure you could get better rear set up using WilWood or someother aftermarket caliper, but you would need to make a hub bracket or have one made. I used to make stuff like this using the 810 FWD rear hub bracket as the basic platform, so anything is possible if it can be imagined. There was a member here that made this own rear hub brackets from scratch that used the 280 caliper, and I've seen the early 280 caliper used with a custom bracket. The 810 also used this caliper to be aware of the two different rotors, calipers, and hub brackets that the 810 used. Easy to tell which one is which, one is very large and used small pads, second and better is smaller and used the larger pad, same pad as the 280ZX/200SX/810/240SX. Best of luck, Mike.

The 240SX rotors will not work with the MM set up for the 240SX caliper and caliper hanger (to my knowledge, contact MM for verification on this) but they will work with the 810 Maxima stock rear hub bracket. MM uses the 1984-85 300ZX N/A rear rotor. Avoid the turbo of that make and year as it is 5 X 4.5" lug not the 4 X 4.5" that the others stated here use. Mike

Same bolt pattern as Z cars (4 X 4.5"), the 240 SX does fit. Also the 200sx four lug fits as do many other nissan four bolt rear rotors. Mike

Motorsports Dynamic in Sacramento Ca. also sells that stuff. Look for a local super shop and tell them your interested in the import market aftermarket parts. They should be able to get the parts or tell you who they know that specializes in them. Mike

Go here, http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/index.html This guy has done his homework, he hangs out here too. The tech drawing is a bit complex for the average garage mehanic but rock solid info. I've done it and like it. I do think that you can use the 1980-84 Maxima companion flange from any RWD car in place of the 280ZXT ones, but not 100% as I have only handled them and never installed them. Mike

Mesure the distance from the MC flange to the furthest point of the piston rod on the original MC and piston rod, than do the same on the new MC using the piston rod you intend on using. Set the length of rod same as first measurement. It doesn't matter if it is a larger unit or just a stock replacement this, procedure needs to be done on every unit you install. Mike

Here is link to a post I've posted a while back. http://hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=140795&highlight=#140795 As for this problem you face you need to readjust the piston rod that is between the MC and the Booster. The MC has a different flange thickness and the tappered cone that the piston drives is also different. Best of luck. Mike

Yes you can swap R-200 ring and pinion gears and cariers around. The only issue is the ring gear bolt size (others do apply). Most pre-1984 stuff is 10mm bolt where as the later is 12mm, for the Z anyway. The later version of the R-200 with the short snout used different tooth count so they are not innerchangable, but you would only want to use a matched set anyway. Installation isn't as bad as one would think. Much like installing engine bearings. You need a magnetic base and dial indicator and some Dyechem or other wipe removal agent to get the ring gear mesh with the pinion gear correctly. Same stuff you would use to get a wipe pattern on the cam follower. For what you want I'm guessing your going to need bushings for the bolts. Any machinist can make those items and MM has told me they can be done. I have also heard that the ring gear can be bored and taped to the larger bolt. Mike

Jeg's advertises them in their catalog. Can't comment on the performance thought. Summit may sell them as well, don't know for sure. Mike

As Mobythevan has shown with his pics and others have stated like zxgt-4, the actual shafts of the R-180 and R-200 are the same but only if the bolt on type is used. Thanks for the pics greimann, if you start getting into the R-180 wtith the bolt on side yoke that this is another issue and, as stated the splines are not the same between the r-180 and R-200. But again if you have the side yoke R-180 best bet to get the half-shafts from the donor R-200, or at the vary least the side flange of the half-shaft. Mike

The c-clip should be inside the differential on the side gear. Only the VLSD is an exception to that. The differential innner stubs should have a ring cut in the shaft for accept the c-clip. As for the one side not comming out, I've had one that the differentail inner stud welded itself to the thrust block that is on the pinion shaft. I was assuming the guy was roasting the tires as it was the passenger side in an open differential carrier. Mike

The R-230 can fit or so I've read on this site. The little orange sticker does exist on the VLSD unit in a 1990 300ZX that I found but the 1987 300ZXT did not have this as it was a LSD. Go here for a brake discussion. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19020&highlight= Mike

I use a sythetic 85W-90. Many may have issues with that but a tranny is a different animal. The syncros like light oil where the gears like heavy oil. The bearings are fickle too, they don't get any oil if the oil is to heavy and if the oil is too light not enough lubricaiton. Just my $0.02. Mike

I think the 300ZX is a VLSD not the LSD. I think the 300ZXT used the LSD but not 100% sure. The differences is the shafts betweent he VLSD and the LSD as far as install goes. Both should be for a 12mm or 13mm ring gear bolt but they will bolt on a R-200 10mm ring gear bolt with bushings that you can get from either MM or your local machinist. Go here for a view of the shafts. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20563 You can make the VLSD work in the R-200 case but you will need to get the CV's customized or find some other solution. Like a plate mounted to the inner stub and then bolt on your old U-joint half shaft. I prefer the LSD as it is almost bolt on and go. You only have the issue of the 10mm, 12mm, or 13mm bolt on the ring gear to address there. Easy enough with bushings if your using a 10mm ring gear. The Brakes are another issue. I have looked into this BREIFLY and the gains on the brakes are not that much more than the 280ZX stuff. The pad is larger on the 300ZX but not much larger than the 280ZX/Maxima/200SX and others. The 300ZX is twin piston, where the others are single but if your looking to upgrade and get nasty in the rear, get a set of four pistons for the rear on 13" rotors. Also you will still need the E-brake assembly, WilWood sells a nice cheap guy that you could get to work. The effort will be about the same for the stock Nissan stuff as aftermarket 13" stuff. The only difference is the price...the 13" is going to cost a lot more. As for the fronts, you didn't say if they were included or not but they are the same pad as the Toyota upgrade (they even fit the caliper body) and the Toyota is bolt on where the Nissan requires a custom plate. They both are four piston and the Nissan's are cast aluminum were the Toyota's stuff is cast iron so you have advantages with that too For the cost of $400.00 it isn't bad but you may want to consider the effort needed on both the brakes and VLSD carrier. Mike

Go here: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19471&highlight=vlsd Note the spline area on the shaft. Only the VLSD uses this shaft. If you get a LSD (clutch pack version) you will be able to install it with out issue period! If you use a 4.11 R-200 form the 200SXT you will only need to switch the stock differential inner stubs only for this to work. The drive mechanizm is broken into Five basic parts. First the Differential Inner Stub, second the CV or U-joint Half-Shaft, thirdly the Companion Flange, fourth the Stub Axle, and the most important the Third Member or differential. As for using the CV's you will need to adapt it to the companion flange so see MM for this or your local machinist. Mike

An R-200 has many internal options. Ratio for staters; and the LSD issue you have options here too, LSD, VLSD or HLSD. The drive shafts will almost all be able to be adapted to the Z car without issues with the right custom parts. As for the carrier and ring gear be aware of the 10mm or 12mm bolt size. If you mix them up you 'can' solve this rather easily. Both the ring and pinion are stamped so get the matched set. Check out MM as stated for ideas on brakes but there is a post on the brake forum that lays out my Port list. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19020&highlight= If you don't have luck at the yards or swap meet, I have a few items that may interest you under buy, sell, trade on this site. Mike Can't blame me for trying to move some parts can ya?

Real common ratios are: 300ZX 84-86 3.700 12 mm R200 300ZX 84-86 Turbo 3.545 12 mm R200 300ZX 87-89 3.900 12 mm R200 300ZX 87-89 Turbo 3.700 12 mm R200 I like lots of bottom end power, ya know 0-80 shots getten on the freeway and such. I do beleive that the CV are close to the design of the 240sx but not 100% sure. I am looking into this conversion too. I'll share any info I have but as of yet no luck on the nitty gritty; guess it's time to get dirty and gain some knowledge. Oh I dropped out of the bidding when the cost was more than my weekly salary. I'm a cheap SOB I guess! Mike