brokebolt

Hey Monzter that intake looks real good, almost like you cut up a stock intake...He, he. Their must be a lot of time spend on that project. Thanks for the pics. I noticed that the second injector ports 1 and 2 have the sleeves removed. Are they a weld in design? Again not a turbo guy but is their any gain to be had with a header style intake (like that posted) vs. a design like the stocker turbo Z had? Tony D., The "long rant" comment wasn't directed at you freind. I was simply trying to clarify on the original issue and not turn this into "if you want maximum output" discussion. Like it has been stated over and over, you can get more performance but at a cost (both $ and trade offs) and that was where I was headed here...or not trying to head. And yes being that turbo's use exhaust output on forced induction it is really a debate of cost, time, etc. vs. output. That system shown here looks farily costly and time consuming. For someone wanting max. output I would recommend to be prepaired to pay or spend time developing. I'm sure Monzter has done both. Personally I am not that concerned with max. output on a daily driver or hobby car...I would re'con most feel the same. I would gather they want the most perfromance to be had for least cost. If I were more sensitive I guess I would take offence to the "knuckle-dragging" comment. The spare tire comment was really a comparison that your gains would be about the same as removing the spare tire...or I would assume. Compairing weight to lost performance. I don't understand the ZC.C comment you might need to clarify that in a PM or something. Ya know, I thought this was a site of shared ideas...I even read the information posted by Superdan concerning the site rule and mission statement to make sure we were on the same page... So back to business, what is a 'bar and plate' I/C's you mention? I see the pics here posted by Monzter of the air to air cooler that I have seen in the past on other turbo systems and what not.

Long rants aside, and going back to the origianl quesiton; I guess what your really saying is that neither design is best. A radiused inlet like the example given from TWM would be the best or better than the two in question. So what plant in Fairfield, Jelly Belly or Bud? And what is a 'bar and plate' I/C's you mention?

I agree with what you have stated JohnC but do you think the two presented air horns you would have any real world difference between the two? In theory yes, and I agree that more turbulance=less perfromance. As far as I can tell this ideology hasn't filtered into other areas of turbo design, the stock turbo set up has some fairly sharpe twist and turns. I would gather that a air to air cooler would also be an area where you develop a lot of turbulance. Again not a turbo guy so I haven't followed up on any improvements sence like the 80's. My origianl comment I was speaking in general that if you not running at WOT you really should not see a "seat of the pants" difference in normal daily driving. I haven't followed MONZTER's build up or intended use for the engine so I was speaking more generally, not all out performance. Personally I wouldn't send the time to develop an air horn for the prospect of potential gain...unless you needed it for space limitations or something like that. Simply remove the spare tire and I think that would produce more performance gains over any air horn design. I could be wrong here but...

OK, I think we both agree that the conical shape would be best for any application but in forced induciton when you are producing more pressure than needed (a large pressure differential accross the throttle blade) would it make a difference in efficiency? How different is the pressure differential across the throttle blades in a turbo induction vs. a naturally asperated set up?

On forced induciton, I would gather that their would be no difference. After all you are building pressure in front of the throttle blade, that is at less than WOT. You should have less pressure behind the throttle blade than infront of it for most driving applications. I would also assume that the round shape would flow more evenly from any direction into the throte of the TB as aposed to the square one. I'm not Turbo guy for sure but it would seen logical to me.

A mini meet would be a good idea, but no Z from me I am a left coaster guy.

Wow I've seen a lot of intake air filtration systems in my day (maybe not as much as some) I would strongly recommend that if you don't want to use the individual oval cleaners to use a plenum system (like what SKiddell is pedeling) and get a good aftermarket round filter from Summit or Jegs. They are supper cheap at about $26.69 (or so). Search Cone filter. Then mount that bad boy on the end or make a SS pipe and run it out the front and mount the cone on that. Simple easy and a cold air induction kit to boot. If you can weld aluminium you could fab one up in a few hours, simple square box should be fine for the garage monkey... SKiddell I may be intersted in one it the price is right, the Dollar is weak right now so may not be the best time for me.

Friends, Who has the yellow convertable 280Z in Durham, N.C.? I don't want to post the liceinse plate number or words but PM me if you know who this is...Long story short, I was recently in Durham, N.C. on business and seen it at a local business part... and at a local Pizza Hut...Nice looking ride, does it have a hard top/soft top?

With a dead head system it is possible to produce excessive wear on the pump thus low presures. As the pump warms up it is possible it will develop less pressure and you are getting more leakage in the pump. It should be a rotary vien pump for safety reasons and this type of pump also is excellent for moving fluid but not developing excessive presures and spikes. This type of pump uses the fluid to help seal the veins in the turit. If you use a open end system where a return line is used than you may be in the same situation with no pressure but you will have flow. You can benifit more from this system as you are always moving fuel in the pump which deminish the wear isssue (you will always have wear), and you can install a fuel cooler and help with performance by cooling the fuel and returning all the excessive amount of fuel back to the tank. I would guess that at such a low pressure your guage is not too accurate but I would definetely suggest using a return line. Hope this helps.

To answer your question, the DGV and the DCNF share a very similair bolt patter but not the same. The good news is you can fit them in one of two ways. First if you don't car about hood clearence, than you can use an adapter that will fit one bolt pattern to the other. The bad news on that is that you will gain about 2 inches in height, well bad for hood clearence, good news for out of the hole performance. So you will need to SawZall a hole for each carb or do some type of cut and hack job to make them fit. But if you do the hack job you can make some nice air intake scoops on the hood to feed each carb or do an air box or something like that. That would be cool and original. The second option is to make an adapter plate out of... oh lets say 3/8 inch aluminium plate stock. You are no longer looking at hood clearence issues but you will need to port your Cannon/TWM adapater manifolds to make it work at the base of the carb. If you look at the adapter manidold it is shaped to fit the two difference sized butterflies and they are much smaller 32 mm on the small side vs. as you stated 44 mm. That is a little over a cenitmeter not much but definetly a bit of material to remove. And you need to make sure you get the bores centered in the opening so as to not hender performance. A bit of planning but it can be done. So, yes you can mount them; just depends on how far you want to take this project. Happy motoring, Mike. P.S. I do like the Peirce injection throttle bodies. Get three of those with Megasquirt that too would be cool.

What venue are you planning to run the car in? Street Strip or other? If you use a oil cooler or automatic tranmission cooler, mount it infront of the other coolers your using, and run the fuel through it before the carbs this can cool the fuel before it is feed to the carbs. The unused cooler fuel can return to the tank, helping to keep the tank cooler. While I've mentioned it, Z's are the worst design for gas tank temps, all the engine heat and exhaust pipe heat hits the fuel tank dead on...through the tranny tunnel. Relocating the fuel tank to a higher point in the car could also eleminate this condition of heating the fuel in the tank. I like a cool can before the carbs to help combat this, but who drives around with a ice chest full of ice slurry and a aluminium coil running though it anyway. A fuel cooler, fuel cold can (when needed at the strip), free flowing return fuel line, heat shield between the carbs and exhaust, thermal wrapped exhaust manifold, and cold air induciton plumbing, all used in conjuction with each other would help keep under hood temps low and intake charge cold. Don't know how safe or legal that would be for the street though. Mike

IAT's not familiar with this term...I don't think. What is it.

K.I.S.S., Keep It Simple Stupid. Words to live by. Yes, changing one thing at a time and measure the effects is a very effective way to trouble shoot...but very time consuming. Easy stuff first is also a good ideology. If your fuel pump is the stock version, you may not be able to get more than that due to age and leaking check valves. I don't know if they still offer a rebuild kit for those old pumps. I need one for a pump I have on the shielf that has a hole in the diaphram. That is the one bad thing about triples, if you start to play with the tuning parts everthing is in quantities of six. I've been suggesting it for years that triple carb guys ban together and "Group Buy" a large selection of parts and then when they have there stuff dialed in they "buy out" the parts from the group. Check out a local club, if you already haven't, and see if they offer something like this. Also clubs are an excellent source for guys that have gone down the road before you; so they have already made all the "stupid mistakes":cuss:, this would help in diagnozing some issues and pehaps give you some advice in other areas besides your triples, just a suggestion. Keep us posted, happy trails Mike

You have multiple issues I see why no one was brave enough to tackle this one. First off you need to find what is causing pressure, that is a very bad thing; very, very bad. Your tank should be placed in a vacuum condition not pressureization, if all is normal...no! This does not mean you should have 30 in of vacuum only that as you are drawing fuel out is a slight vacuum condition should or could exist. You can disconnect the power wires form the electronic pump to see if the problem continues, as it sounds you are leaning on that. I can't see how that would cuase any issues but try it and see what happens. Are you 100% sure you only have 3 PSI from the fuel pump? I would gain to venture you have more presure and your guage is skewed a bit. The carb dieing problem may be related to the tank over pressureization, and maybe due to excessive fuel not starving. Pumping the throttle should surge the accelerator pump circuit in the carbs and that would be adding more fuel, thus it loads and dies faster due to fuel being added at a faster rate. Do you have a chilton book or factory service maual? If not, "invest" in one, your not "buying" one, your "investing" in one like a house or stocks. Re-plumb all your hoses to location that are in the manual to like locations in your existing set up. Example; all things that hook to the intake manifold "vacuum side", that is behind the thorttle body, should hook to the same location on your triple manifold, behind the throttle blades. All things that are under the air filter should be moved to the same location, under the air cleaner. You may need to add air cleaners you didn't mention if you were running them or not. Be advised that if your hooking something up to one runner only, like you break booster and there is a leak in the hose or plumbing somewhere, than that cylinder will run lean, not that it could run lean it WILL run lean. That sets the stage for major catastrophic engine damage...which is never fun for anyone...except the guy you pay to rebuild another engine. Keep us posted.

Ok I know this subject has been malled over for years, but my brother (ole doc martin) sent this to me...poking the bear with a stick as it were. He is all about EFI, I like the carb personally. Nice read, but nothing concrete. As always, he said, she said...go here. http://carcraft.com/techarticles/849/index.html I like this quote best, sums it up nicely. "Warren Johnson: Properly tuned, carburetors make more peak power than EFI in a Pro Stock engine. A carb’s pressure differential atomizes the gas a lot better than spraying fuel through an orifice. But EFI has a broader powerband and superior cylinder-to-cylinder fuel distribution. The 1,100- to 1,300-cfm dual carbs are good only over a narrow range, about 1,500 rpm at most. EFI performs well over 2,000 rpm or more. On average, if optimized, both systems perform about the same as far as how fast you get down the track. However, the EFI system is much easier to tune than a carburetor." For those that don't know Warren Johnson a.k.a. "The Professor" is a long time NHRA Pro-Stock drag racing veteran. He knows his way around a carb. He is one of my personal HERO's!

Just to let ya' know, I bought mine off ebay at the suggestion of MAT73GNZ and they are real quality items. Thanks for the tip.

I am interested in: 1 X REAR (large) 2 X FRONT (small) Mike