yo2001

AFR isn't going to make it safe if the timing is too high.

You should run a back pressure test and see what kind of pressure is in the exhaust manifold.

buy it from a nitrous shop. With -3AN line was a restrictor, you might actually have not enough oil to the turbo, so wait on the restrictor after you try the -AN line. If it smokes, add te restrictor.

-3AN line is a nitrous line. hint, hint.

Dropping the oil pressure to the turbo isn't that much problem since the car nowdays have too much oil pressure for the turbo. But I guess if you have filtered oil close from the oil filter, the oil should be clean enough. I now run th eoil from the head (4G63) which can pick up a trash on the way to the oil feed line. Yet 80%-90% of turbo failure is caused by contaminated oil and damage to the journal bearings.

The unit that I run uses a quarter size meshed filter with alot of passing through area. It'll take 100,000miles of debris before itll clogg the filter element completely. The element can be removed cleaned, also can be replaced every so often. The pressure drop is almost next to nothing also. I have about 10k miles on this setup running 20psi daily. So far so good. I checked the filter element last week and it was still clean.

If we can get enough poeple, we can group buy these reasonably cheap. I was told I would need to least buy 10 before the price break

2mm orfice for the standard bearings. The ball bearing doesn't require as much oil as Standard shaft, I guess it's because it has so much less contact surface. But it really doesn't like trah in the oil so the inline filter is a must.

Again, http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/detail.asp?imageID=H7EEX8548E3HEG5FH6BRO5AC# Down to 10 microns. I think it'll small enough.

I actually use a motorcycle fuel filter. http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbook/detail.asp?imageID=H7EEX8548E3HEG5FH6BRO5AC#

sinse it is long and narrow, you might see high pressure drop. But I still say it's better than nothing.

depends on a which compressor cover but it's going to be either 3 inch or 4 inch inlet.

Run a brand new feed line if you can. It's not worth taking a risk on an old feed line. If possible, run an inline filter also, it's a cheap insurance.

I had an early open chamber 260Z E88 shaved .080". After milled, it became a close chamber With a dished topped bottom end, it cranked 215-220 psi static with a mild cam. If I remember, it was like 33cc or something.

It's a 60-1 or something in the T04B family. 7 blades rather than 6 blades like To4E and GT series. looks big enough to be 60-1. NVM, it's To4S, got to be 60-1 or larger. BTW, 56trim is not close to 60-1. 6 blade compressor wheel.

But clipping the wheel will open up the close end of the turbine wheel which also increase the airflow. Unlike the redesigned stage V, stage 3 or standard T3 turbine wheel, the design is same, it's got real closed profiles. by open it up it would hurt much. IMO. Less back pressure. I would choose stage III or larger wheel on a 2.8L I-6 though. The stage I isn't going to be enough flow even clipped. The lag isn't much, IMO overrated. Mostly what you feel is the slower transition from a larger heavier wheel. All comes down to the combination though. Larger compressor, larger turbine. Clipping is things in the past I guess since you do have more option than just simple stage I and stage III wheels. My turbo now, I ran Clipped 11 degree what they called GEN3 Ptrim with 50 trim T04E. from comparing to stage III/50trim, the spool is about same may be slower by 100rpm.

Garrett will say just about anything to sell their GT series. They need the money . I'm actually running clipped wheel now but I've not really notices any downside to it.

You would need the one that will change the signal from 5v-0v when it's plugged up to the power source if that helps any. I don't have a N/A AFM in front of me to confirm the pin for sure. Is the pin layout same on the turbo AFM?

I say you can do 250WHP on N/A bottomend with a right turbo and good tuning. I don't know pushing a stock turbo will get you there since you have to run alot of boost to get the airflow you need but with bigger turbo I think it can.

out/in should go to the pontentiometer of AFM. TPS or MAP hooks up to throttle signal. Basically, you need 3 things. Airflow signal, rpm signal, and throttle signal. Think of AFC as a complex potentiometer. I say try find a older supra Mark II and III? websites. They been using AFC on AFM for awhile now.

That's the one. if you do use MAP, the AFC won't know the throttle position (including WOT) but it'll know the load via MAP which can be tuned just like TPS. More accurate too since on a turbo car, the load is not fully dependent on throttle plate but throttle vs gear. You are more likely to need more fuel in higher gear (like 5th gear) 25% throttle than 1st gear with 25% throttle.

Nice advice. I really like the 61mm or GT56trim with a stage V turbine wheel. The 61mm might surge with t04E cover without anti surge port though.

ACF needs the 0v-5vTPS signal. Can't remeber which wire but you need the one that changes the voltage output via throttle position. IF you can't find one, you can get a MAP sensor and get a load signal from that.

It can't be that bad since Garrett cuts their turbine wheel 9 degrees I think on some turbos.