yo2001

I think the FJ are about same as late L4 like LZ and things. I have a video how to build FJ around here if you are interested. In Japanese. lol

GM one wire only needs the battery wire connected to the back of the alternator. 3 wire needs one battery positive plus, constant 12v and ignition 12v inline with charge light.

what about the increase thrust load on the bigger compressor wheel on small shaft t3 turbine wheel? That'll make the larger turbo not as much reliable.

1. 1 bar over ambiant = 14.5psi. Suppose if you don't ignore the physics, you would have to deal with thermal dynamic and effeciency of the turbo plus IC effeciency, air restriction, heat on and on. 2. yes, since you wold need about twice as much cfm on 4 liter than 2 liter. A t3 is not going to keep up well on 4 liter as well as 2 liter. 3. well, under WOT, you would need more fuel to feed a boosted engine but you would need alot less off throttle (like cruise) on boosted engine since off boost the engine is smaller than N/A large displacement. Also there are factors like revlimit and power peak. if you get a 1liter boosted with peak power of 15000+rpm and 2liter with 6800rpm peak power, the both might make similar power and 1liter might be more effecient. So many factors.

1. 1 bar over ambiant should cram 2 times as much air if you ignore all the laws of physics. 2. yes but you would need more turbo to create same kind of airflow. 3. no because you are getting compressed air which is more dense hence slower burn, less timing less power output.

I'm glad my car lives on with more and more improvements. lol It's going be real nice once you get all the work done. Good luck man

Playing with Loosescrews MS powered L28ET, timing was key to making power beyond 4500rpm.

What's wrong with the one that you got on L26. lol Seriously, I don't think it's critically injured as long as the block and the head is prepped good. Mirror finish is the best way to get the metal HG to seal properly. I had a Cometic leaking before, never problem with HKS and Nismo unit

I'm on my second J&S Safeguard unit. I've seem great success with it.

left foot braking and ebrake.

I've gone though several boost controls, from stock T3 internal, Volvo, Mitsu, bent rod, adjustable rod, manual needle, bleeder valve, expensive turbo XS but the best boost control for me is hands down Electronic boost controller with an external gate. I can go from 6 psi to 20+psi on flick. No creep, spike, or lag.

Remember, L28 came with like 3 different head chambers over the years. (close, simi-hemi, open) All different head is going to require different timing. compression. Depending on fuel too. So the arguments sake, all must be timing for 93 octane. Open likes more timing, and close doesn't need as much timing but open can make more power if there is enough octane in the fuel. (I read that from JohnC post??) P90 is the close chamber with standard of 7.8:1 compression?

100HP = 10lb/min is what I usually use. T3 60trim max out at 30lb/min at 2.1bar with 65% efficiency so with 275WHP, I think you are about 30lb/min so you really can't move much more air. (unless you up the boost) It'll make more useful power if you do spike in lower rpm but you are more likey to detonate in the torque peak so if you want to stay safe, I would go with what you got, just shift early to stay in the powerband. basically, you are out of a hair dryer.

It's prolly blowing the gate open. I see the samething happened on a T28 RB25 with stock actuator.

Your turbo turbo shouldn't surge in that low of psi. May be the BOV is not closing shut in low boost? May be remove the BOV temporary and see if that's the problem

I think on 4 cyc. twin turbo would have to have #1 and #4/#2 and#3 tight together to have correct pulse to spool a turbo.

I was messing with a dynojet last night and learned that if the car is strapped down too tight, it'll stress the clutch. I might be just the FWD thing but dyno always seems to over load the drivetrain.

the torque is low due to late torque peak. Nice number considering Mustang dyno reads pretty low.

Are you going to set it up like the stock HX35? Mounted on the turbine housing rather than compressor housing? The stock one is like $150 if I remember. Or something like this? http://www.bullseye-power.com/product_info.php?cPath=38&products_id=52 I do have one like that one. You would need to cut a plate to mount it though. Mine was made for a To4E.

As a stunt rider on History Channel. I think it's the same guy. I personally don't know him. Either way, congrad. http://www.sbfreaks.com/videos/biker_history.wmv

Whine can be caused from out of balanced, oil starved, or small air leak.

I was only refering to the spool up of the turbo not the power output. less timing less power output but the turbo should spool faster. I guess on the stock liner ignition timing, the low timing will make the car sluggish. I would also like to add the cam timing can affect the spool up. Specially with large N/A aftermarket cam.

retarding the timing helps the spool up. I would check for the boost leak from the turbo to throttlebody or anywhere in between.

35mm is NLA through Tial. FYI. 38mm replace it