yo2001

I've been using the Miller 180SD. It's little under 2K retailed and it welds real nice. It's little hard to weld a thick aluminum since it doesn't have alot of amp.

I've been thinking about jumping back into Nissan lately. Can't afford a nice S30 so I've been thinking about S110 or S12 silvia. Does anyone one here have one or have experience with one? I'm thinking SR20DET swap or CA18DT. If I'm lucky, LZ20 or FJ20. I'll apprieciated if you guys can point me in te right direction. Any good website and things. Thanks.

20 ga vs .065"? that like half of the thickness. I would look into aircraft quality al pipes. those are like 20ga al pipe. No weight at all.

Mild steel will get rust inside from all the condensation but it'll take a decade before it kill an engine. One thing to worry with an alumi. pipe is road debrees that kick up. I had a rock hit my Al. IC pipe and put a nice dent in it. 2.25 inch pipe now only about 1 inch diameter. Doh! Road Racing Enginering got selection for pretty reasonable price. You know EVO8 comes with Al IC pipes. you might be able to get those cheap. People are throwing those away.

CT26 is not cheap to build and rebuild since the parts are not so abandon. I guess that;s one of the reason no one uses one.

I've seen 60 trim in .60 A/R with stage V on L28ET. The car went 114-115mph on pump gas. A full weight 280zxt. I recommend it.

You can alter the TPS signal with MAP sensor and the AFC can see load. But yes, you can't run 50% larger injectors with AFC and expect the ECU to use the same map.

I was running Ford escort valve seals on all of my Z heads. Including the one on Forrest's P90.

T25 and T3 got different flange. The 280zx wastegate flapper is located at the same place but it's got flapper housing that's detached from the dp. I think what you got should work as long as the flapper seats right.

I think it was T28 ceramic BB.

I've been there. I think it's now a part of knowledge performance. http://www.knowledgeperformance.net/home.htm I know it's right next to it.

I meant into the intake. It'll buckle if you got a large leak like pop off or BOV prematurely opening but with a small leak, you prolly even notice much other than a slow responding turbo. Since Haltec would be a speed density setup, the leak in the IC pipe before the MAP will not affect the A/F. You might get a higher intake temp than normal.

The intake boost leak can cause spike but it makes the spool up slow since the precious compressed air is escaping out before it goes into the turbo. Plus, you will over work the turbo to create same psi. it's like tryng to blow a baloon with a pinhole. Just more work for the turbo. the harder the turbo work, more heat, more heat less power.

With 112 octane, you would want to tune the car leaner than what's safe on the 93 pump gas. IF you are rich like in 11.5:1-12:1, you actually will lose HP since the fuel can't burn completely. I think standard Turbonetic 60-1/t3 comes with .63 A/R and 10 blade stage III. I was seeing full boost in my car with 60-1 @ 3500rpm with 11 blade 60-1. on the dyno the torque peaked little before 4K rpm where the boost was spiking. Slow spool up can be caused by a small boost leak. I would check that if you haven't.

there is an enough space between the stock tach location and the triple gauges to put one gauge there. The hole saw is your friend. Ask forrest where I put my boost gauge.

T3 turbine wheel not the housing IMO. I've seen .48 A/R with Ptrim and stage V make 400whp on pump and 500+ on C16. Have to watch out now days. there are few so called stage III out there that are not true stage III. 11 blades on Garrett's 10 on Turbonetics.

Should be fine as long as there is no detonation.

I would check for intake leak with a boost leak tester. Made a big difference in my car. The boost creep should be a problem with an external 38mm unit but either way the creep will make more power since boost will go up with rpm. With all that mods, tou should be making more power. What kind of dyno was it? Manual or auto?

http://www.zeitronix.com/ This is about he's talking about

Mine is in the stock location but I was told to move the sensor away from the heat as 800C+ is not good for the sensor. Also keep the sensor away from moisture. It kills the sensor faster than the heat. If the WB unit fail to warmup the sensor before being used, it can fail due to condensation. One reason why I didn't go with LM-1 with lighter socket plug in power deal. I'm really forgetful.

The wideband O2 should be located pretty far away from the turbo and still be accurate at same time. it really doesn't like the heat and moisture. 8-13 inchs after the turbine is what I was told.

I ran HKS (thish I think the IC was Trust unit) IC on my Zcar but it was the bigger one. I've seen good result with it. I believe Cody still runs his.

cam timing effects idle also. also low velocity intake air

Turbonetic BB is really not worth the money. it's not dual BB setup like current Garrett ballastic GT's.