RIPSNZ

Yeah, tbh, you don't make alot of sense to me either. You seem to have been spending a huge amont of time messing around trying to re-invent the wheel, (or at least find a cam belt that is on a domestic model) the cam belt thing is old news and very easy to sort out. I buy alot from the US and I don't spend days and days messing round trying to save a couple of bucks looking for the same parts in NZ, if they are available and proven I get them if the price is fair. Your talking about a AU$120 (about nzd140) belt on the previous page, then you have to get it shipped to you. I'm not sure if you understand what I was including for nzd230. A brand new high quality cam belt, tested, proven on RB30det A brand new idler bearing A brand new tensioner bearing A template to show you exactly where to put the stud for the tensioner and instructions on doing the install of the stud and the belt, and I'll ship it to you, all for nzd230 (about usd175) How much do you guys pay for the idler and tensioner bearings? Then, if and when you find a belt, are you going to be the ginea pig who tries and tests it on your own car? Are you then going to be sure that the relationship between the crank gear and the exhaust cam gear is correct so your cam timing is within spec? Rob

Why don't you guys get together, make up an order of 5 or 10 sets or something and I'll send you a belt, idler and tensioner kit with a template and instructions on relocating the tensioner, its really very simple. nzd230 a set for 5 sets including shipping nzd210 a set for 10 sets including shipping Rob

stock idler location, relocated tensioner to the correct place.

I looked at that too but for the amount of time it would take to piss around it wasn't worth it, much easier to start with a stock rear pan sump (cheap as) and then do a new high capaicty section for it. There's a thread on here somewhere with the part number for it and I got one for about $200 and sent to me from the US in 4 days, great service from the place I delt with. Rob

Just buy a set of RB30 studs then, then you'll be able to sleep at night

We've been doing RB30det's for years and have the belts in stock to suit.

RB30 and RB26 are different size bolts, if you really think you need studs get the RB30 studs if your using a 30 block. For most applications the stock used bolts are fine. Rob

We're making a custom rear pan sump starting with a stock Z31/RB20 rear pan sump so sorry, nothing to spare. Will post pix as we do it. Rob

Time, or lack of it, I purchased some parts off the heat treatments world record GTR engine and the manifold was part of the deal so I thought I'd use it till I have time to make my own manifold or we change turbo's. Update time: The trans has been freshened up (built to take 1000hp at this stage, can upgrade it to hold 1600hp if need be at a later stage) I've finished the T400 to RB bellhousing conversion, very straight forward, only 2 bellhousing bolts couldn't be used as they were above some of the trans pump bolts so thats not bad at all. A little bit of messing round getting the larger chev spigot button on the converter to clear the flex plate bolts but with an adapter button everything is now as it should be: Next up is the custom radiator and 16inch electric fan, a fair bit of work but its come up nice. After much discussion we agreed to put the engraved top panel on the way it is as the 240's bonnet opens from the back meaning the only way you can look at the motor is from the side and when standing there the engraving is facing the right way: We'll put an alloy brush finish on the top plate and the tanks and fill the engraving with black and red paint to highlight the engraving. Next up is the bonnet, the old hood scoop is gone and a steel patch will go in, get filled and shaped nicely and look like nothing ever happend: Next up is the intercooler, plumbing and trans oil cooler, will post more as we go. Rob

Should be in the next month or so, I'll keep this thread updated with progress. Rob

They V8 guy was pretty confident of 9.70 - 9.80 on the motor at around 140, if your into V8's it was a sweet motor, sold it for nzd18,000 complete with ignition, fuel system etc, new owner is very happy with the purchase price. With a pretty good RB30, peek hp is usually around 7500-7800 but we can make 700-750whp by 6500-7000 on pump gas if need be, so I usually only rev to just over 7000. With the engine for this 240 I intend to push our most common combination 'crate bottom end' to 8500rpm and beyond to find some limits. 7800rpm should give us the 150mph we've set at this stage as our goal. Rob

I didn't build the V8 but it was done by a top guy here in NZ, I'm told it made 630hp by 7000rpm but they revd it to 8500 on the strip I think and it got a NZ record for the class it went in so must have been pretty good for its size. It ran 10.20 in 1450kg and it wouldn't go into top properly, once the trans was sorted they didn't go back. I took it for a drive and it did go pretty good, very crisp and free revving but it didn't have the top end pull of a turbo 6. Rob

Maybe you should take a look at a stock engine mount with 2 x M10 studs poking out of a rubber block. What happens if you tore a stock engine mount? I've run 10.20's on slicks with NOS (1.4 60fts) in a dirty old 1600kg GTS4 with the original stock rubber mounts that were probably in pretty poor condition due to age and being exposed to oil etc all there life, I never broke one. The bolts I've used are M12 grade 8.8 which would be strong enough to lift the whole car. If you truely understood how this design of mount works and thought to yourself "maybe whats in the pic isn't quite all of it" you'd feel much better about it I'm sure. Rob

OK, engine mounts are done and we're doing the radiator and intercooler now,

Great stuff, I'm aiming for 9's to start with then we'll see how we go from there, I imagine the old 240 is not the best at the big end, 150mph+ with its nose up must take alot of power and not feel to good in the steering department I bet? Looks like your 8.9 is the time to beat for a true street driven 240z and in a year or 2 we hope to be close to you, good luck improving on your time, but don't get to much quicker please, give us a chance!!!! Rob

OK, so 8.9 is the time to beat then? Z-gad? Whats the quickest with a nissan engine? Rob

Its a RB30 block with a RB26dett head, pretty common conversion to do and they make really good torque and power. Rob

No problem, glad I could help, there's quite a few tricks I've learnt along the way and if you need any parts let me know, I keep most things in stock and ship worldwide. Oh, and we are not in Aussie!!!! lol Rob

I did think of that but I'm not really an old school V8 fan and the class of racing I want to enter requires the same brand of engine as the body so the chev had to come out. Maybe if I had a heap of money to spare I'd look at a twin turbo Nissan V8 at some stage as I do admit, a V8 on full song does sound nice. I think the RB30 will give me enough for now at least:) Rob

Z-gad, how do you find your transmission, what rpm stall converter do you have and do you have/use the transbrake? Very smooth 8 second pass there!! well done. Rob

Ran 10.20 @ 134 with trouble getting into top gear, it was a 352 with brodix heads, race this and that, blah blah, sounded nice and crisp, went ok but nothing like a good RB30 does. I've kept the transmission with high stall and transbrake and hope to beat the low 1.3 60ft's it ran with the small block, just have to sort out a way to stop bending the wheelie bars on the street .

Don't worry, the scoop is going to go, I hate it too!!! The reason it had the scoop: Out with the old dug dug V8 and in with some real power

R.I.P.S hand made alloy plenim with billet 90mm throttle body, TOMEI fuel rail that will hold 1000cc injectors & turbosmart 1200hp fuel pressure reg: T51R spl bb on HKS stainless manifold (good for 1000-1200hp): More to come shortly. Rob

Thought you guys might be interested to see a road legal 240z were doing here for Pro street drag racing in NZ. The car will be fully road legal, run on 98 pump gas and run on DOT street tyres, we are initially going for 9's and will see what happens after that. Before unloading for work to begin: Dummying up the R.I.P.S RB30 mated to a Turbo400 race transmission: Fuel cell and posible position of one of the NOS bottles: Twin 044 700hp fuel pumps and braided fuel lines: Next comes the engine mounts, custom high capacity drag sump, custom inlet plenim with 90mm billet throttle body, T51Rspl and 50mm wastegate. I'll update as progress is made, Rob

DO NOT put any levers behind the gear unless you intend to replace your oil pump, even gentle pressure on the oil pump housing will distort it and cause it to fail. There is a very easy way to get them off, takes me about 30 seconds. Get a drill about 8mm (5 16ths) and drill into the gear directly above the key slot evenly between the key slot and the teeth on the outer edge. Mark the drill with a pen or put some tape on it to indicate how deep to drill, drill in till you are 'just' about to drill right through it. Then with a reasonable sized chisle, hit the outer edge of the gear, between 2 teeth, directly above the hole you have drilled, the gear will crack straight through between the teeth, through the hole and into the key slot, they then just slide right off. A new gear is inexpensive and having stripped 100's of RB's I have found this the best way to go if they don't just slide off by hand. Hope that helps, Rob