RIPSNZ

Sorry but your not quite right. The R32 RB25 plenim is not the same as the R32 RB20, it may 'bolt on' but the runners are huge compared to the size of the RB20 ports so you end up with a big restrictive step in the intake, definatly don't do it, absolute waste of time. He may be talking about a R33 RB25 plenim onto R32 RB20, in which case that won't work either. Rob

Where are the vids or pix of these cars???? I havn't found anything on 1quick z or the others Rob

Update: Not a hell of a lot happening in the last few days, been pretty busy with other things but we've started the exhaust manifold and stripped the whole front off the car to give it all a general tidy up. We raised the turbo a little more so the intake is now 1/2 below, 1/2 above the bonnet line now, this was so we could go to the GT47 later if we need to, we'll make a nice concave scoop to give a full open mouth to the turbo. Rob

I thought 6l per km was good?? lol

It'll mainly be used on the strip but I drove the old setup on the street quite a bit with no filter and as long as you don't follow behind someone too close its fine. Got a bit done in the last 2 days, we've taken the twin NOS bottle kit out and installed just one bottle on the passenger side floor, the large drag fuel cell and steel cover is also gone and we've made a nice little 12 litre alloy fuel cell and alloy cover, MUCH lighter, should hold enough for 2 runs plus the trips back the return road. We've decided to move the turbo up and out a little, this means we can make the manifold and it will also suit the next size up turbo as well. Rob

After getting the record for the worlds quickest and fastest street 240z (8.7 on street tyres) and a 9.7 on its first pass in the 1800kg+ street Drag-R R34 we decided it was time to up our game some more and really push these street motors to 1200hp and beyond. The T51spl was nice and we made 900whp very easily on the 240z's RB30, the GT42 on the Drag-R was running out of puff at 1.9 bar (960whp) and it was surprisingly responsive on the road so we thought we'd go bigger again on the 240z and get both stages of NOS going to really wake it up. Goals are very low 8s, maybe into the 7s at 175mph+ on street tyres. This must be done with a fully water cooled motor (no block filler) stock crank, stock cradle and the same head and intake etc as the previous engine. Rob

I agree, read back through the spec's of my 240 and what we have on/in the car when we race and I'm sure you'd have to agree that it is a 'street' car in the true sense of the word. We even run on fully treaded wet weather suitable street tyres most of the time (best 60fts with them) A full tube race car that has no interior etc but happens to have some lights and manages to get 'road legal' somehow is not really a true street car IMO Rob

Based on what your saying, you guys really have no fast true street cars then. That sux big time for you guys. In NZ, as long as we keep the car safe and comply with some basic rules we can do pretty much whatever we want and get them road legal. Rob

Some good points and your entitled to your opinion. In my opinion, as long as the car fully complies with local laws reagrding it being road legal and the car can and does get driven long distances on the street without over heating or similar issues, if it has apholstered seats, full interior, original dash and guages, all window glass, all steel panels or original body work, full exhaust with muffler etc then, to me, that is a true street car. If that same car then goes to the strip and does not remove any street equipment, (but possibly adds safety equipment to comply with racing rules) runs on the same street tyres as it is road legal with, runs with full exhaust and muffler, full interior, basicly everything it would have when on the street, then that to me is car that can claim a record as a true street car running "X" time In our 240z we adjust the rear tyre pressures only, thats it, everything else stays exactly as is does when driven on the street, IMO, that is a true street car racing at the drags. Rob

Any more news on any quick 240z's? V8, 6 cylinder etc, anything running mid to low 8s or better? Rob

Any news on the turbo V8 240z? I'm trying to find info or links to V8 240z that are in the 8s or quicker, street or full drag. Its always good to see what others are doing, we are making a few changes as well and hoping to get below 8.50 before long. Any info or links greatly apreciated. Rob

Looking for info or links to find the quickest V8 240z. I've heard of a white one thats run 8.60?? Any info on this car or quicker 240s would be great to see, Thanks Rob

16.5 inch wide Hoosiers on a 15 x 12in rim have worked for me, lol no traction problems, in fact to much most of the time Seriously though, a good compound 245/265 would be about right for most street 240s. Rob

What do you want to stroke the 25 to? How about a proven RB30 combination? http://www.ripsracing.com

I have RB30 with T400 and 5000 stall and I agree, its great on the street, you'll do much better at the strip I'm sure, did you put a transbrake in it? if so, get some NOS on there Rob

I have RB30 with T400 and 5000 stall and I agree, its great on the street, you'll do much better at the strip I'm sure, did you put a transbrake in it? if so, get some NOS on there Rob

We are working towards 7s for sure. There's a big jump from an 8.7 to a 7 so its not going to be easy but we have alot more power and few other things in place that should at least get us a little closer before too long Rob

Here's a GTR running 8.1 @ 172 with a stock crank, manual box and good 60fts: http://www.godzillamotorsport.com/content.php?c=6 Rob

Its the large one next to the oil feed port for the vct. When we weld them up we weld up the oil feed at the same time, re-shape the port to suit the block then surface it, if you don't want vct its ready to go like that. If you want vct you need to get an oil supply into the tube running verticle in the front of the head. Rob

I've been thinking about this some more. The cranks described above didn't actually fail from the high rpm, or the power they were making at the time, ie, if they were on a dyno or in a different situation they wouldn't have failed. They failed due to a very sudden shock loading applied to them in a way that is not always the case for alot of high output RB engines. If they were in a 'locked' 4wd situation, with a very strong clutch and alot of traction, when they launched there would be tremendous loads on the rear of the crank, hence they broke there. Obviously a good billet crank will cope with this situation better, no dought about that, but it still doesn't actually mean that under different circumstances, ie a launch without 50/50 lock up, a high speed road car, an auto drag car or other applications that the stock crank would have failed. I agree, in the sitautaion described above a billet crank would be better, but I still maintain that a stock crank in other applications is still fine with 1000hp+ and 9,000rpm+ and is still reliable as we have it in our own car doing just that. Rob

Interesting, and I suppose what you describle could happen although I havn't personally seen it. We've run some pretty low times (8.7) on a stock crank without issue and have never heard of the type of failers you talk about. Obviously most people wouldn't be leaving the line anywhere as hard as perhaps these cars were, any idea of the 60ft times and weight of these cars? Will keep it in mnd, Rob

Its more involved than that I'm afraid, there are water ports that don;t line up either, we alloy weld up and reshape the ports in the head and block off the oil feed at the same time, then we externally feed the vct if its to be used. Get a R33 RB25 head gasket and compare it to a R32 or RB30 head gasket and you'll see what I mean. Its not a real big job but you need someone very good with a tig welder to do the welding for you. Rob

Check the feature in the link above, all the info is in there, Rob

Just in case you don't know, the RB25 head you have is not a bolt on for an RB30 block. Rob