Xnke

A turbocharger or centrifugal supercharger is NOT going to blow the throttle open, as they are dynamic displacement compressors and vary pressure and flow based on demand. A roots or screw type postive displacement blower WILL have the ability to do so...either by having a pneumatic "balance" point in the system, or by just bending your throttle plate around the shaft. I have seen and suffered both, and the latter is a well know problem. On a 6500rpm throttle closure, the supercharger displaces 62ci per rev and is turning 14,995rpm, moving roughly 460cfm of air. It doesn't stop on a dime, your engine takes a real number of cycles to decel, and with the throttle closed that 460cfm WILL find a place to go.

Yes, two of them. Both 1" diameter, PLUS the bypass valve on the supercharger itself. I could STILL find load and throttle positions that would cause it...usually mid and high speed cruise. Not something you see in a racing car, like 280ZedX's built. Ask any manufacturer of supercharger systems, they'll vehmently try to dissuade you from doing this for the exact reason of throttle damage/throttles blown open. Blocking the silencer holes makes it quite loud, but can damage the blower if you weld the holes up, and can provide plenty of hard stuff for the engine to ingest if you use epoxy. You could machine the lower of the super for a block off plate and go that route, which is absolutely bulletproof.

It's not worth 35K, unfortunately. That hatch does not match, you're correct. The door pillar emblems are not series 1, so it's a series II car, based on C pillar emblems, rear hatch, and flat-top SU's from a 1973 car... Point this out and the seller will scream and shout that you're trying to lowball him.

M62 will produce about 250RWHP, best case. M90 can do much more, but it's bigger and harder to fit into place. Bernardd, If you want to try it after the supercharger...go for it. I tried, it tried to kill me multiple times, I moved it to where every single manufacturer puts it. It hasn't tried to kill me yet. Even using the bypass valve to dump the pressure didn't stop it from finding throttle positions that balanced the system, holding the throttle open and the supercharger in boost. I had to pull the throttle shut with my toes more than once!

Seller is either BSing you, or the car had a series 1 swap. 2001 car would be a gen5 m90, and would have a four-bolt rectangular flange for the throttle, a long snout, and a 3.8" pulley.

Mine is an M62...92-93 bonnevilles are Gen2 M62, 94-95 are Gen3 M62, 96-97 are Gen3 M90, 98-2003 are gen5 M90. Only the M62 has the short snout.

Yeah, it's awesome. That's an M62, BTW, not an M90...saw you mention in the other thread about it, so that's why I say. You're pretty stuck with the blower...it HAS to go up stream. I've tried it with ITB's, single throttle and the split-throttle setup, and while all "worked", the before-the-blower throttle really is the only reasonable way to go with a roots or a screw type charger. If you can move the battery, it's VERY advantagous as far as inlet air is concerned. Opens up miles of real estate for a proper air filter. Use the largest throttle you can stand. The 3800SC blowers have throttles smaller than Eaton recommends, Especially the M62. I'm running a Q-ship throttle with the non-linear linkage and it's very, very controllable. The opening of the M62 is 65mm, and a Ford 4.6L V8 throttle will match up nicely diameter-wise, but it's really too small for the blower. Roots type blowers REALLY don't cope well with inlet restriction, they just become heat guns.

Outlet? You mean the photos on page 1? Every part and piece is detailed photographically in this thread. Feel free to PM me if you need help with things. I would reccomend this setup in an S130 to anyone...in an S30 push the engine back an extra inch or two and then it would be a cakewalk. Radiator fan to belt clearance is the only major space issue, along with careful placement of the supercharger. Get an LD28 manifold, hog the runners, and fit the injectors on the end of the lower runners, not up by the head...longer runners, bigger runners, plus already setup for no throttle. Perfect part to start with! My idle issue is very likely the combo of low compression and late intake valve closing...New cam will be in by next weekend and I hope to have that problem solved. 7.9:1 comp and a 72* closing point doesn't work very well! Think 300* intake duration...that is roughly equal, event timing wise, to the issue with my current cam. Cam selection would be similar to a N/A engine, I chose a bigger exhaust cam to bolster my exhaust port, since they don't flow as much as I would like. Bigger exhaust valve would also be a benifit, possibly will happen next time the head gets refreshed. A 37mm valve can be fitted, but only barely.

Even the LC-1, the cheapest thing going, allows you to choose that...

There are no returns on the carb. You make a loop, then T off the loop to the feed lines. The other hose barbs on the carbs are vent lines and go to the airbox.

Someone has cut up that rail. Put the regulator AFTER the carbs...otherwise you're not regulating the fuel pressure to the carbs. You're regulating the output pressure of the pump...but the carbs are downstream of the regulator. The stock fuel rail runs around the front of the head, back to the back of the head, then back up along the side and around the front again. It has a restrictor placed in the return side that is sized to work with the stock mechanical fuel pump.

Set the cam timing back where it belongs! if it's not right, then you will not be able to correctly set the other functions you are looking at. Today's fuel burns at a 14.4 stoich, compared to straight gas at 14.7 stoich. That assumes 15% ethanol content, which may or may not be the case. Set the AFM per factory spec, set the timing to factory spec, set the cam to factory spec, THEN start wondering where to make mods.

Best of luck. I have two of them, plus the M62 on the car. Throttle goes upstream! baaaaaad juju to try it downstream, been there, tacoed throttle plates!

Set it back where it belongs!

Tony, that cam is very far out of the marks. It's timed in the #3 hole, so if this is a "recent rebuild" as mentioned in the other thread, either it's the old timing set, or his cam may be advanced 8*...

That's the chain-driven RB swap from Japan.

Did some comparison datalogs today, thought I would update this thread. Originally, the same drive ratio with the old head produced 9.5lbs of boost from 2200rpm to 7000rpm. Wth the new head installed, datalogs show 5.75lbs of boost over the same range. Same cam, same intake runners, sane intercooler and pulley on the super. Decent improvement in breathing, if you ask me!

Drove the car around today, tire balance is farkkkeddd. The car will gobble the tach with only 22* of timing advance at 8.5psi, and there just isn't enough brass in my pants to push 120+ on a roadway. Only pushed to 6.5K, but the tires being so out of balance had my driver's door pop the catch and hold on the safety latch at 80MPH today. Won't idle worth a damn, though. Not sure what the deal is still, once the revs fall under 1000RPM there's no stopping them. They'll just keep falling, no combo of timing, fueling, airflow, cam position, valve lash, anything else I've tried prevents it.

Possibly a rebuilt head with an aftermarket cam core...similar, but not the same as a "CWC" core. Does it say E30 JAPAN anywhere on it? If not, then it is not likely a factory cam core, and will not have a cam stamp corrisponding to the factory cam grinds.

It really is not practical to put in a roll cage and street drive a Z. There is no point to having a full interior when you have to wear a helmet and gloves every time you drive the car.

I would doubt they cut the top of the head, then. I would imagine they decked the bottom and didn't cut the top, and just told you what you wanted to hear to get you out and not have to fix the mistake of forgetting to cut the top.

That's pretty damn good! Excellent result! what kinda cam are you running now? Still on the Y70 head?

So this isn't for an L-series engine, but instead for a gear-timed, cam-in-block engine that drives the distributor from the midpoint of the cam. I can replace the distributor with a cam sensor from a more modern engine, direct drop in fit, that will provide a 12-1 signal. But, if I install an adjustable cam gear, this would tend to move not only cam phasing, but trigger phasing as well, requiring me to re-set the ignition timing and injection timing as well, correct?

Somewhere I've got one. I'll hunt it down later today when I get home from work.

So why is it when I pull the MS2 daughterboard, unplug the extra 12V lead for the MS2, and plug in my MS1extra processor I can idle the engine wherever I want? This ONLY occurs with MS2. I'm not giving up yet, I'll give it another shot...I think I've got some settings messed up somewhere.