Xnke

Looks like it shouldn't bee too hard to get it running on a datto, either!

BMW has the proper bolts for the 12MM headbolt swap. DAW has the information on it; there was another here who also had the numbers. I am sure a properly selected length of B7 threaded rod 12mmx1.5 would be suitable for the head bolt clamping force required, but I would still be running the numbers to be sure.

Stock L-series cranks can live WELL in excess of 400HP...The ones that you hear about breaking the most are the engines being turned in excess of 8000RPM, and that's solved with proper flywheel and damper arrangements.

You seem to have adequete cooling for your needs. 178F water temps are just fine.

Don't use JB weld in a fuel environment...I hear about it "working just fine for years" all the time but it DOES dissolve in fuel and it DOES get soft and it WILL peel off eventually. Just solder the holes shut with lead solder and call it good...an electric soldering gun and some electronics solder will do it with minimal clean-up following.

Yep. I use the S13 lines on mine as well.

And the manifold bolts are NOT all M8....11 M8, 4 M10, or 6 more M8's...depends on the year and the head.

You can configure your Megasquirt in such a way that you can run MAF, MAP, or Alpha-N, on any engine out there. You don't need the MSD ignition box with MS-Extra, it can do your ignition timing too.

Nissan KA24DE. Appears to be approximately a 2cc dish; you need to measure the pistons to find out what size, pin height, and crown thickness you have.

they're listed in the FSM.

The stock turbo EFI system will work just as well as anything else up to about 12lbs, or 10lbs intercooled. After that, it's time to bid the stock EFI farewell, as it will be more trouble to keep running properly than it would cost to completely replace it. The stock non-turbo system is not something I would recommend at all. Stock L28e fuel injectors are not up to the job, they are 188cc/min, and are good for about 180HP. Stock turbo injectors are 265cc/minute, and can take you to around 220-230HP. The stock EFI is less than adequate for your goals. If you add an intercooler to the stock L28ET engine system, you will be on the limits at 10-12PSI and about 210-220HP. If you are planning to run a bigger turbo, you will need a standalone (can't think of a single piggyback that will work with the stock EFI) or an EFI swap from a different car, you will need bigger injectors, and you will need to spend the time and money to tune your engine with the engine management you choose. There are bone stock engines with the proper bolt-ons, engine management, and tuning making 450+HP out there.

Yeah, that isn't the case. the water pump won't (can't, actually) pressurize the system in that direction. I would be pulling the clogged radiator out, if it was me.

I hit the wheel HARD, enough to bounce the car up in the air...was doing about 50MPH and drove over some diesel fuel on the highway. The roadway stank of diesel, in a construction zone, and there were three other cars who skidded off at the same time. One woman had rolled a brand new SUV and broke her arm; we pulled her out of the sunroof. Bent the crap out of the wheel, but the flange and brake rotor spun OK, so I never really measured it. Now I think I ought to.

I managed to do something similar, and belive I might have a slightly bend flange too...do you get a moderate to high-speed wobble going on that feels like a tire out of balance, no matter how many times you balance the tires and check the wheels for runout?

I had my car driving well enough to make a three hour trip in four hours. Megasquirt is not difficult, but you must read the manual a few times to make sure you understand it. There is a lot of info in the EMS forum here, too.

Should have read up on that first...there is NEVER a good reason to adjust that spring and you've probably ruined your AFM. Replace it and the problem will go away.

...or just replace the headgasket and enjoy the MPG and reliability of the L28... You will want to swap the transmission with it, as it has reliability and strength upgrades, as well as proper internal engine oil drainback. Also, the manifolds being on opposite sides of the engine will make it easier to use the KA bellhousing tilt. Use the stock driveshaft with the dust collar removed, move the shorter engine up 2 inches and be done with it...will drive exactly like a stock L28 and get about the same gas mileage. Also, easy placement...just bolt the KA trans up to the stock transmission mount and you're located front-to-back. NBD, drive it home in a single day in the workshop.

The installed seal is backwards. Rule of thumb is to install the seal so that increasing the pressure on the seal will make it seal tighter...as you've got it installed, the seal will be pushed away from the shaft as the pressure against the seal increases. Flip the seal and it will be correct.

How many splines on the knurl? I would drill 17/32.

Sure...Cut out your floor pans on a stock car and set the car on the ground. Now shut the doors. The floors are a major structure of the car. Cut them out and those doors are NOT going to shut right.

The floors ARE a signifigant structural component of the unibody. You are wrong, rsicard.

I purchased a Nissan USA exhaust manifold gasket about a year ago, Tony, and it was the paper type. Metal core, paper on both sides. I have also purchased a 1972 240Z Fel-pro gasket and it was the graphite type, square exhaust ports, but had no notches for injectors nor the 4-bolt intake manifold pattern. The 1983 L28ET fel-pro gasket is a paper gasket. The Beck/Arnley gasket is a graphite composite type with crush rings on the exhaust side The Ishino is a graphite composite type.

Enough with the fast and furious crap. It was a fun movie series; but I'm not mad, bro. Machined the first inside profile today; bored to 1.5" ID and then started the radius. bore 10* off, 0.75" deep bore 20* off, 0.375" deep bore 30* off, 0.1875" deep bore 40* off, 0.093"deep bore 50* off, 0.0465" deep Hand-blend the angles Roll the edge of the horn.

Doubt all you want, but the evidence I found was clear...the Shell gasoline cleaned away a LOT of deposits when used in the engines I work on. The grungier the engine, the longer it takes, but it will clean 'em up! I would suspect that anything you could get at with a steel bristle brush but not a brass bristle brush is going to require removal of the valves to properly clean off. I might run a quality fuel with a good additive package or an available additive specifically for cleaning for a few weeks before trying to clean them up first.

Outsides of the air horns are turned, going to part off with the bandsaw at the office and start laying out the internal profile tomarrow night.