Xnke

Awesome! The Black cog would be spot on for a 3.54 rear gear set, so that's great.

Tried to get it cranked up today, not a chance. will fire a few times on the cranking pulses, but it's not pulling vacuum and sputters out as soon as the starter is disengaged. EDIT: I'm stupid. New injectors are high-impedance.

I think you need to go ahead and assemble the thing on a block, tony, finish the head up and get it complete...just to walk over every now and then and give it a flip over to watch it all move!

You will definitely need retainers to fit that cam...it's not really the springs that make the difference, it's the lash pad thickness. Lash pads thicker than about 0.170" will need taller retainers. Others will say they got away with the stock retainers, but the taller retainers are made for a reason. Real easy to chuck a lash pad and a rocker arm; possibly unseating a valve lock...could be a real train wreck. I was unseating lash pads with 0.185" inch pads in stock retainers consistantly at 6300RPM. Your milage may vary. The base circle diameter is and the valve stem height are what determine your lash pad thickness, for the most part. If you have set the valvetrain up with a cam of known base circle, the the SAME head with the SAME valves can have the lash pad thickness roughly calculated (you can get within 20 thou) by taking the starting lash pad thickness + 1/2 (basecirclenewcam - basecircleoldcam) = new lash pad thickness. If you install other valves, have a valve job done, or machine the top surface of the head, or any combonation of the three together or individually then your lash pad thickness will likely change. If this is a new head or you have had machine work done to it then you can figure the lash pad thickness by using any flat-bottom pad (any non-factory fitted pad) plus some shims cut from feeler gauges or shim stock to fit the lash pattern up. Then, add the thickness of the pad to the shims you used and call Nissan Motorsport so they can tell you they don't have that size...order something close but bigger and get a machine shop to grind them down to the size you need.

That's the whole reason I went to the 17x7 wheels I have on the car. I had 15x8's with 225/50/15's, but the tire selection wasn't there.

1.48:1, approximately, and it varies throughout the rotation of the cam. 1.48 is the "average" I belive. Call Isky; he's got springs in stock that will fit up to a 0.610" lift cam; Schneider also has a spring set for the L28. Rebello has some spring sets as well, but he also supplies Isky springs for some cams. Consider also your valve lash and that you want NO LESS than 0.050" of room before coil bind, as you will have some valve lofting at some RPM. Consider also that your resonance will likely be at high RPM and it's considered very difficult to coax valvetrain instabilities into the L-series valvetrain.

If you installed oversized bearings on a standard size crank, it's possible you've ruined the main bearing caps IF you managed to seat them and torque them to spec. Same with the connecting rods...wrong bearings will distort the big end of the rods. If you didn't use assembly lubricant when you put it together...well...

I did all the rust repair on my car, provided all the materials and did 85% of the body work on my own car. I spent 3 years doing it myself, and I had a LOT less rust than you did...I did both floors, both front fenders, both doglegs, and straightened out the rear quarters and rear deck...no rust in there when I started although the rear fender lips are rusting through now...RUST NEVER SLEEPS! Then I paid a shop 1500$ to finish the bodywork, prime and block out the car, and spray the color and clear. They took 8 months to do that! Keep in mind this is a professional shop with two experianced guys. Even at that...they managed to ruin the job by cutting corners...but we'll not get into that here.

I'm pretty sure using the LD gasket isn't going to fix the problem; he'll need to either add material to the flange of the LD manifold (easiest way) Or weld up the gaps where the injector ports are machined. The gasket won't help if there is no metal to back it up. However, since it does come with larger inlet holes, a little work with a razor knife and you can probably get a nice fitting carbon composite gasket out of the deal!

You may still...or they may be unusable! You need to fit the rings to YOUR components...not every transmission will be the same.

Cheap clutches are not worth the effort. Is it worth removing and replacing the transmission twice, plus buying another clutch, for fifty bucks? Go with a known quality supplier...and LUK is not bad. I would avoid Zoom or Precision clutch, however, because I've had poor luck with them in the past. I've never had a Napa, LUK, or Exedy clutch be bad out of the box. Remember, an S13 clutch for a 240SX will fit as well.

Pick one up at Autozone or your local parts house. Exedy stock replacement clutch should do just fine.

Weld it up and have it machined flat. If you aren't doing aluminum welding, it'll be less than cheap. Is that the one from ebay last week?

I would cut the EFI flange off and weld it onto the runners, or move the injectors up to the bend in the runners and shoot straight down the tube.

The Stock retainers don't handle lash pads taller than about 180 reliably. Some people get away with it, but most don't. Isky and Nissan both offered three different heights of retainers here in the US, one for up to 170 thou lash pads, one for 170-250, and one for 250+. Use the tall-shoulder retainers, but buzz them down the 20 thou to make them fit properly.

Nope. If it's a heavy flywheel, You should be able to leave the line at 1200RPM and chirp the tires out of sheer inertia.

HDPE, high density polyethelene, melts between 225 and 240F...even UHMW doesn't make it much higher. That 300+ temp listed in the wiki is higher than I've ever seen any PE tubing listed, anywhere. PEX, on the other hand, is a whole new animal. XLPE is a modified plastic, it's NOT the same material. The chemical structure is different, and it does NOT melt with heat...just gets more brittle. For vacuum lines, I'm with Tony. I have 3/16" brake line tubing run for any vacuum line longer than 6" in the car, but I've yet to find any soft tubing that lasts more than one or two years.

It's probably a truck flywheel, or a 4-cylinder car flywheel from an L20B. I have one here that I pulled from a junkyard L24, mine definitely came from a truck L20B and weighed 29lbs before lightening.

Starting to get worried about ring failure due to all the fuel that was getting dumped in. We'll fix that when it becomes a problem; right now the thing needs to run again. Been working on the plenum today, it's 50F and the humidity is a problem. Breath fogs the welding mask badly! Will finish the plenum up this week. Need to make the seconday plenum again, not decided (still) on what i'll do this time. Will be driving again early march, approximately...just long enough to find out if it's still fscked or if I have a runner again. If it's a runner...LSD time.

Polyethelene lines will melt at underhood temps. The white-clear stuff you buy for pushlock fittings is the same stuff milk jugs are made from... It starts to get very soft about 140F, and melts into goo at just over 215F.

Looks awesome. Tune it as-is....ITB's sound fabulous and they are just wicked fun.

1982+ transmissions use the left handed nut...Mostly! Check the threads to be sure which way you should be turning YOUR transmission nut.

Pulled the plenum assembly off today; found the #2 intake runner had about a half cup of gasoline in it, found my leaker. Cleaned all that out, spun the engine over a few times and did a compression check, everything seems OK, nothing appears broken. All the intake valves look very clean, although it was sucking a LOT of oil through the intake manifold, from the PCV valve. I think my PCV valve was busted though, it no longer rattles. That would explain all the oil. Still doesn't explain why plug #4 kept fouling. I will have to re-visit that problem once the plenum assembly is back in place; and the engine runs again.

That appears to be not an official supplied product, Tony, that's why they don't have one. That appears to be a retrofitted unit made by the aftermarket to the aftermarket...probably because the Dutchies don't have enough 240Z's running around to make it a stock item yet!

Call up Whitehead Performance; They're in your area and could be very helpful.