chelle

lol, I just noticed, the two most recent threads under "other engines" section, discussion of running a V12, and then, discussion of what the best engine is for getting high miles to the gallon.. It's true I suppose, Hybridz truly does cater to all types Today it cost $93 to fill the tank in the GTO scary

John C, Hey, i keep looking at the drysump you talked to me about and thinking I want in on that. It would allow me to drop the pump lower if they do it like the pictures as long as it's on the same side of the engine as the inlet for the oil into the engine (other side of the engine would be right in the way of the steering). You said price would be 10k for three. if it comes down to it I could pay for two and just save one for a future project. Dropping the pump would give me more space to maybe put the alternator on that side too, closer to how it was originally Let me know what you think. Chelle

Hi John, yes, we used the automatic bellhousing as a template The T56 was a natural as the tip of the input shaft where it fits into the back of the crankshaft was even the same size as the BMW/Getrag trans. That said, if you don't sort it out by winter I may sell the Getrag as this winter I hope to make a lot of new changes to the car including a corvette 6 speed transaxle. You can buy the Getrag from BMW directly but it's about $6000

hey guys, sorry for slow replies, you know me - sometimes takes a while for me to reply. I did make an adapter bellhousing to mate a T56 to the engine, then lucked into a new 850csi trans that was too good of deal to pass up. I can't remember if i sold the adapter or not, have to dig through garages. John said he wants to use a ford trans, can't remember the model (an not at my main computer to review his e-mail) T56 is used in some fords too I believe. Either way making an adapter isn't that big of a deal. If your budget is big enough you could get Browell to make one too. They make some really nice ones for racing. There's a turbo supra at the shop I go to with a Browell bellhousing allowing them to use a Lenco, so they make lots of unusual ones out of Aluminum or steel http://www.browellbellhousing.com/

We just installed the Mini in the white car and it fits nicely. We've not finished a few other mods so I can't say how well it works yet. We'll likely be able to charge it ant do a test drive in the next two weeks. On the red car, at the same time we've been doing an install of the Gen II compact. That car is a ton hotter inside with the V12 so i wanted to use the largest we could fit in there. It doesn't have the stock dash, and is right hand drive and has extensive firewall modifications. It is a REALLY tight fit but moves lots more air than the stock setup did. I'll post some pics this week Chelle

thanks for the kind words Speedracer, tho I have to tell you, the pics of your car inspired me for a long time to do one of these cars! And I still have lots more changes in mind for the red car, but it's getting better. krnmonkey- I saw one 2+2 280z GTO long ago - and would not suggest it either. The roof and were the door meets the rear fenders just don't look right. The most important thing is to find a rust free chassis to start with, and budgeting 2-3 times what you think it will cost. If you're going to spend $5000+ on fiberglass and that much or more mounting it and doing paint it would be crazy to find a $200 rusty or wrong (2+2) chassis. Spend a little more for the best doner car you can find. best of luck, read the archives here and use members here as resources, there's a lot of great, helpful people here Chelle

Hmm, I need an IAC then. I have Tec3r on a V12 and it initially won't idle for a minute or so without me giving it a little gas. The two plenums have separate throttle bodies though, and I'm switching it to a ITB setup to further complicate things, why do I suspect I'll just have to live with the inability to idle?

pictures? any thoughts on what mfg the bodies are?

Zerrari, sorry about that, here's another good source for ya as well http://www.squadranuvolari.com/products.htm Chelle

Boy from Oz, well those look to be the hooks like the 275 use on the trunk but that will solve one thing, though about $100 USA for a tiny chrome hook seems a bit high.. they do have quite a bit of other good stuff too thanx ! Chelle

Nope, the cvcc button is what we used on the doors, an the MG ones will work, but they are really big. For the trunk (or hatch) many use the stock hatchback release, but with a hook mounted under it like the ones used on a 275GTB. It's a ring with a hook that the push button latch release fits through.. I don't have a pic of one off the car, but here's a 275GTB with the latch hook many use on the trunk. It's not the same as the original gto ones, but works well. Chelle

Hope ya know I meant that in a nice lighthearted teasing way that's why the emoticon winking, I dunno if there ever was a Scaglietti badge, but ya could invent one.. talking about it kinda makes me want to invent one myself I doubt any but the most die hard would get it

actually they have had the door buttons, made custom order but extremely not cheap lol.. but don't use the pininfarina script or some Tifosi at an event will laugh at you for not knowing every bit of ferrari history. The bodies were developed from work done by Bizzarini and Scaglietti built them all in house(out of 21 gauge aluminum), not PininFarina. Pininfarina did the bodies for the Series 2 GTO's (1964) but not the early cars.. hmm, that would be kewl - make a badge for Scaglietti... crediting him.. that would earn a little respect from die hard Tifosi Con Brio- GTO's didn't have ashtrays! lol trying to think what you could be referring to - almost sounds like you are referring to something like corvettes had picture?

Zerrari, I prefer these guys for original hardware like lights... not cheap, but great quality. I have bought things for our Lambo as well from them and they sell only nice original or excellent reproductions. http://www.italparts.com/details.php?id=225&plaats=171&prijs=&item=14&status=&garage=&type=&terug=/overzicht.php?id=171^page=1 Chelle

Looking great Eric! I might have a need for 6 plexi scoops and 2 pairs of hood latches. I like what you did with the hood support/hinges. I want to do the same - how did you attach the skin to the frame though? I was going to just go all out and make my hood over again out of aluminum.

looks to be an Alpha... I'm near the IL / Wisconsin line, where are you? I'd like to check it over and see what kinda deal is available...

Nope- it didn't break, but did bend some trying to find a pic of a stock one here we go:

Sorry I have been slow on getting this out there about the Simpson style dash we're putting in Kim's car. Just been busy with three cars half apart and trying to get to enjoy at least some of them before the season is over. Kim ordered the Simpson style dash as the White car had the stock dash modified to look like the Alpha dash. It was made by cutting away some of the stock padding and filling it in with two part foam. It looked okay, and worked okay, but it wasn't aging well and the gauges were foamed in place and therefore really impossible to work on. Even replacing a instrument bulb was impossible. When the dash came in we decided that while it is a good start, it needed a lot of fitting and some modifications to get it to work the way we wanted. We took the gauge panel and cut paper circles to mock it up and decide on placement and size. We then put the panel into the dash piece itself and discovered there was going to be some work required to get it to fit right. We decided to do away with the stock gauge panel and build a flange inside to screw an aluminum plate to. This would allow it to be easily removed to service the gauges and would give us slightly more room on the panel. Here's the pieces as they fit initially. You can see there are pretty uneven gaps all around. This was true regardless of the depth the panel is mounted. In order to have sufficient room between the steering wheel and dash, as well as having enough of a cover to prevent some/most of the gauges from reflecting on the windshield at night the panel needs to be recessed to some degree. In the third picture I had decided on the depth and angle we needed the panel to sit and drilled 4 holes to hold it in place temporarily. Once we were happy with the placement we removed the screws and roughed up the back of the dash panel a few inches around the opening. Then we wrapped the gauge piece in aluminum foil and bolted it back in. Here's how it looked from the back. We then laid in about three layers of fiberglass and left it to cure. After it cured we removed the screws and popped out the gauge panel, then using a dremel tool we cut away the excess leaving a nice lip all around the opening about 3/4" wide and 1/8" thick. A little lightweight bondo around the opening allowed us to blend the lines a bit to make it look a little more uniform. While the bottom edge is angled a bit we decided that after we cut the edge back and with the steering column coming through the middle there it shouldn't really be very noticeable. It should also be noted that there was a bit of work required to clean up the seam from the mold all the way across the front and sides of the large panel. Once done with this initial stage a coat of primer makes it all look pretty. At this point Kim made a template out of foam core board for the new gauge panel and then cut it out of 1/8" aluminum and determined gauge placement while I made pieces of alumnum to fit into the back of the dash. I fitted the aluminum in to serve several purposes. First it will serve as reinforced mounting tabs to hold the dash in. Next it adds a nice source of a ground to the backside of anything mounted to the dash. After riveting in 4 pieces of aluminum. Kim poured in a nice two part foam which filled in most of the area behind the dash panel and in between and around the aluminum I riveted in. Using a drill mounted sanding drum she sanded away any foam that was excessive or might get in the way of the A/C, wiring, gauges, etc. and she drilled the holes for the defroster vents. Rather than go totally original looking we both chose to use three round vents that can be aimed like most road going Ferraris use. The combination of the metal mounting and reinforcement with both metal an dense foam resulted in the assembly feeling and sounding like it is very sold and metal rather than fiberglass. With it bolted in, when you knock on it with your knuckles it feels like it has real substance. Last two pics are another test fitting into the car. We had to make a new lower mount out of aluminum for the column as the stock one put the column coming through the left side of the opening. I'll try and post some more details as time allows about the final mounting and finishing of the dash. We are going to finish it in black wrinkle finish. I still need to trim away excess material from the mounting tabs and we need to finalize the decision of console or not as well as switch placement. I hope this helps those who are considering dash options. . The Simpson dash is a nice starting point in my opinion, just requires work to finish nicely.

Con Brio, I think we have the same hook on the latch on Kim's white Alpha. Wish I knew where it came from. I may "settle" on using an original piece from a 275. It's a little different but would work. Here's the hook on the white GTO

yeah!! .. what he said please show us more

Looks great to me - where did ya get it?

I honestly don't know.. sorry.. saw it online will post the url if I can find it again Chelle

Hiya let's see, more pics below, not the intake that looks like real webers too much to fabricate the intakes to make it work with this available... Can't make it to Carlisle too much to do .. but here's a pic from knotts, not taken be me and two shots of the dash for Kims white gto under construction..showing metal reinforcements before pouring foam

Thanks!! I hope you are well The red car got the Gen II Compac and the white one got the Compac Mini (which is only like an inch smaller in each direction) Using the BMW compressor and the Vintage air condensor and dryer. I don't have lines on it yet, but the idea is to try and have this thing livable when driving in the summer. A/C seems so wrong in a "race" car, but last year when we would go off to an event by the time we got there it was practically an impromptu wet t-shirt contest.. lol I actually melted the side of my boot against the dead pedal..(they were cheap pleather boots) so I felt some better heat blocking and ventilation were a good idea. Chelle

Next I'll get pics of the white car's simpson dash install